Pdf Drive Russian

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Clara Vanliere

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Jul 25, 2024, 2:23:30 AM (3 days ago) Jul 25
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"Ministries, agencies, and the administration of affairs have asked to continue [purchases], to emphasize, in fact, foreign-made cars, to continue this practise," Putin said. "I said that this should be absolutely excluded and all officials of the country should drive domestic cars."

Hi,
Since a month, I have a new Bachmann Spectrum 2-10-0 Russian Decapod with factory-installed Tsunami sound.
With good help from the forum I managed to take the superstructure off from the chassis and fix a rather bad bind in the mechanism (mainly, one of the pistons was too long, hitting the end of the cylinder, ok after filing it a little shorter), and it was running ok.

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But recently it has started to be very hesitant on starting. The chuff rate increases as it should but the speed doesn't. The wheels are not slipping. Much worse on grades or with a strin g of cars.
If I grabe the wheels and stop them the chuffing continues unaffected.
The back-emf is on, at the default settings.

My guess is that the belt drive, from the motor axle down to the worm axle, has begun to slip.
Does that seem probable?
And if it is, what can I do to fix it? Can it get looser with time and need replacerment?
Or has some grease crept on to it? If so, what would be the way to clean it?
When I had the superstructure off, it seemed to be more difficult to take that part apart to access the belt.
Thus I wish there'd be a way to fix the slip without doing that.
I don't remember if one could get a glimpse of the belt from below.

One thing to keep in mind is that the Spectrum engines (unlike say BLI engines) don't have any cam or other physical connection to the wheels that triggers the "chuffs". All you can do is use the CV's to program the decoder to get the chuffs as close as possible to be in synch. So the fact that you can hold the engine so the wheels aren't turning and the "chuff-chuff-chuff" continues as normal doesn't mean that something mechanical is wrong.

If you set the chuff rate to be correct when the engine is running light, it won't be correct when the engine is pulling a train, as the drag of the cars will make the drivers turn a little more slowly, even though the chuffs will continue as normal. Best you can do is a compromise so the chuffs are slightly more than 4 per revolution when moving light, and slightly less with a train.

But perhaps I didn't describe the problem right.
It is not a matter of chuff sync (that'll be a later chore to improve on that).
I just mentioned the chuffing as an indicator that the motor is running, quite normally.
The loco has lost most of it's pulling power, wasn't too great before, but now much worse.
When I stop the drivers with my hand I can also feel vibrations that suggest the motor is running, That's why I suspect drive belt slip.

wjstixOne thing to keep in mind is that the Spectrum engines (unlike say BLI engines) don't have any cam or other physical connection to the wheels that triggers the "chuffs". All you can do is use the CV's to program the decoder to get the chuffs as close as possible to be in synch. So the fact that you can hold the engine so the wheels aren't turning and the "chuff-chuff-chuff" continues as normal doesn't mean that something mechanical is wrong.

One of the reasons I have given up on Bachmann locos I think is this problem. I sold a 2-10-0 to a friend which subsequently stripped its gear and have a 2-8-0 in bits because the main drive axle gear stripped and I thought similarly to yourself that the belt or a gear was slipping. I got a couple of NWSL gears and will get around to fixing the problem on both locos ... when I feel a bit better disposed to the brand and I have the time.

The gears on mine basically chew in the middle and gives an erratic motion to boot. I hope the effort with the NWSL gears will be worth it... I love the look of the Bachmann engines but stories like yours and events like mine are not encouraging me to look at buying any others,

Bachmann supposedly uses a cogged belt so it is highly unlikely that the belt is slipping. The gears that the belt turns may be slipping or not properly meshed, or a gear on the motor shaft is slipping.

Yes, that's right, on the exploded parts view I see that at least the pulley on the wormgear axle has a toothing. The pulley on the motor axle isn't visible but most likely it is toothed the same way. So it isn't a matter of belt slipping.
What remains would be that one of the pylleys is slipping on its axle, or the worm.
Or, it is the gear on the driver axle.
I'd be happy if the slip is on the driver axle because that one is the easiest to access.

Right, could be a bad gear too. Especially if it is plastic, maybe it got badly worn in the first phase when I thought the bind would be overcome by break-in running. As I recall though, the loco ran without the current slipping problem for a while after I fixed the bind.
The build of this loco is new to me (I'm recently back to MRR after almost 1/4 of a century), maybe it has become a standard nowadays,
I mean that the boiler and firebox is all one big clump of cast metal, well, two halves of it, with the motor set in it, and then all this sits inside a plastic skin with all the details on,
I don't know yet if it is possible to get the skin off without first taking the whole top off from the chassis.
Hope it does. As you suggest, that would give a better view of the mechanism, perhaps even in running.
Thanks to all,
Sverker

More than likely it is the gear on the motor shaft that is slipping. I fixed a couple of my Spectrum locos by pulling the flywheel off and super glued the gear on the shaft and then pressed the flywheel back on. Unfortunately one only lasted a short time and I have not taken it apart to do it again. The other is still going strong though. Maybe I will do some measuring or maybe make my own gear someday.

Thanks Pete for sharing your experiences.
Makes sense. I'll see what I find once I get in there, will be a while before I get time to sit down with it though.
I'll report on it.
I seem to remember having heard about what to do when a press-fit gear-axle is slipping.
Should be a common old problem -- with a standard solution, right?.
Super glue, yes, but isn't it possible to rough up the axle a bit first. Axles are often shining smooth, killing the shine would allow the glue to get a better grip?
How? If the axle is hard steel a file might not do it, maybe emory paper, rubbing along the axle, or could a Dremel with a steel brush do it? It will be important of course to not reduce the already too small diameter of the axle.
Or what are the tricks of the trade?
Sverker

Swerk, on another thread just in the past day or two, Dr. Wayne has talked about rolling the shaft between two metal milll files to force some of the metal at the surface upward and some down. This roughing process, called 'upsetting' according to Dr. Wayne, works to increase the diameter of the shaft by just a fraction of a mm.

Thanks Crandell for the hint!
There they are, all the tricks of the trade I was figuring.
Now I just hope that once I get the mechanism opened up it will turn out to be just that, a gear/shaft slip.

Dark Purple claims the idea came from a friend, who told a story about how a pickpocket stole a USB drive, which was inscribed with the number 128. When the unwitting pickpocket connected the drive to his laptop, half his computer burnt down. After writing 129 on the drive, he put it in a loose pocket in his bag, leaving it in easy access fir the next pickpocket.

Uh huh. PC board traces would fizzle like a fuse, breaking the connection to the rest of the parts before they break. Seems like a lot of work to do something you accomplish by shorting USB power pins with a paperclip.

Named after former foreign and prime minister Yevgeny Primakov, the Primakov doctrine posits that a unipolar world dominated by the United States is unacceptable to Russia and offers the following principles for Russian foreign policy:

General Gerasimov is no different in this respect from his predecessors. His so-called doctrine is hardly a driver of Russian national security policy. Rather, it is an effort to develop an operational concept for the Russian national security establishment to support its ongoing confrontation with the West. Instead of a new doctrine, Gerasimov offers a strategy to implement the actual doctrine that has guided Russian foreign and defense policies for over two decades: the Primakov doctrine.

Russia also enjoyed a number of important advantages in its war with Georgia. Geographic proximity to Russia made Georgia an easy target. The long Russian campaign against the Chechen insurgency in the North Caucasus had resulted in a major permanent Russian military deployment just across the border; the United States, by contrast, was far away. The Georgian military was tiny and no match for the Russian army. And although it had been promised future membership in NATO, Georgia lacked the security guarantee of the alliance. For the Kremlin, it was a low-risk, high-payoff undertaking.

Russian military and civilian leaders have long expressed dissatisfaction with the Intermediate-Range Nuclear Forces (INF) Treaty and have threatened to withdraw from it for over a decade. The treaty, negotiated in 1987, banned land-based, but not sea- or air-based, intermediate-range missiles, leaving Russia at a perceived disadvantage vis--vis NATO, which had superior sea- and air-based capabilities.

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