OpenEVSE LCD address

[ra...@option.no]

Hi.

Is it possible to change the lcd address?

Want to combine several evse boards, lcds and arduino on the same bus.

Kind regards,

Ravn

[lincomatic]

Just change LCD_I2C_ADDR

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[chris1howell .]

On the hardware side, the OpenEVSE LCDs can be modified to change the address. The default setup is address 0, all 3 address pins grounded.

 

The Address can be modified on both the Quick Kit or the DIY kit but it is easier to change on the DIY kits. During assembly of the DIY kit bend up the desired address pin(s) and with hookup wire solder to a 5v pad. On the Quick Kit you need to de-solder the desired pin(s) (SMT part), lift and connect hookup wire solder to a 5v pad.

 

I see you just placed an order on the OpenEVSE Store, I will be happy to substitute the LCD with the DIY version.

 

 

[Ravn Gundersen]

Hi and thanks for the prompt reply.

It was the hw side i was thinking about.

Yes please excange them.

Sendt fra mobil

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[Nicholas Sayer]

For what it's worth, I've got a similar LCD backpack that I'm stocking in my store now. It has 3 2-way solder jumpers to adjust the address (defaulting to the normal 0x20 value) if you want. It also has a similar jumper to change the backlight common pin from +5 to ground, which lets it work with common cathode backlit displays as well as common anode ones. It also has a piezo element on it that works with the LiquidTWI2's "buzz()" method, if you have a use for that, and a 5 way tactile switch for full up/down/left/right/select support.

[Izhar]

Hey Lincomatic:

This may be a silly question, but how is the LCD_I2C_ADDR changed?  Can it be done through the serial interface or can it only be done within the LCD library with the whole firmware having to be recompiled.  The reason I ask is because I have a monochrome LCD which works fine, but I came a across a green monochrome LCD display I had from one of my Andurino kits.  I wanted to try it with the OpenEvse because it may have a higher contrasy when the backlight is off.

Thank You,

Izhar

[Nick Sayer]

The address can be changed to one of 8 alternatives with three address pins on the MCP23017 chip. I don't think that's easy to do with any of the OpenEVSE variants presently available. 

Sent from my iPhone

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[lincomatic]

There’s no software interface to change the I2C address.

You need to recompile. Send me a message backchannel if you want a hex file to try.

For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[Izhar]

Thank you lincomatic, I appreciate.  How do I send you a message back channel?  I see that you e-mail address islincoma...@gmail.com, but I assume the "..." means that there are some hidden characters.  If you can send the hex file to algo...@gmail.com, that would be great.

Thank you for all your help,

Izhar

[lincomatic]

For the benefit of others, I am copying the list in my reply…

 

The I2C converter on that LCD module is not one that I am familiar with. We have compatibility with units that are designed to be compatible with Adafruit’s I2C backpack (MCP23008) or RGB LCD (MCP23017) . Also, certain modules using a PCF8574 chip. Take a look at the IC next to the blue trimmer pot and see if it’s a PCF8574. If so, it might work with I2CLCD_PCF8574 turned on during compilation. If it’s some other chip, you’re out of luck.

 

From: algol halu [mailto:algo...@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 2:08 PM
To: lincomatic
Subject: Re: OpenEVSE LCD address

 

Hey lincomatic:

 

The link from where I bought it is as follows:

http://www.banggood.com/IIC-or-I2C-1602-Yellow-Green-Backlight-LCD-Display-Module-For-Arduino-p-950728.html

 

I think that I will have to attach it to an Arduino board to find the address.  I will take a look at the hardware and see if there is an easy way to determine the address.

 

I'm sorry, I don't mean to create extra work, so I apologize for not having all the information readily available.

 

I appreciate your assistance on this.

 

Izhar

 

On Fri, Apr 24, 2015 at 4:55 PM, lincomatic <linco...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Izhar,

What I2C address do you want to use, and what kind of LCD is it? send me a link to the hardware .. not all I2C LCD’s will work.

[Izhar]

licomatic:

I checked the IC next to the blue trimmer pot and it is a PCF8574AT (picture below), so it may be worth a try to see if it works with I2CLCD_PCF8574 turned on during compilation.  If it works then the OPENEVSE community have another option for an LCD display that is green and inexpensive.  When you have a chance, it would be great if you can send me a hex file with the I2CLCD_PCF8574 turned on and I will load it and see if the display works.  There is no hurry on this as I am leaving for a trip on Saturday and won't be able to try it out until sometime in the 2nd week of May, after I get back.

At some point, probably in the summer, I am going to see if I can set-up my system so I can tinker with the source code and compile and load the firmware on the OPENEVSE, but based on what I read it can be a bit tricky.

Thank you for all your guidance on this, it has been quite a learning experience.

Best Regards,

Izhar

[lincomatic]

Just let me know when you’re ready to play with it, and I’ll build you the latest version at that time.

[Izhar]

Hey lincomatic:

I'm ready to try out the hex file with I2CLCD_PCF8574 turned on during compilation, so when ever you have chance if you can send me the file it would be greatly appreciated.  I'll let you know if the display works properly after loading the revised hex file.

Thank you for all your help lincomatic.

Izhar

[lincomatic]

Check your e-mail, I just sent it to you.

[Izhar]

Got it, thank you.  I'll try it out when I get home tonight.  First time I'm loading firmware into the device but the instructions seem fairly straight forward.  I had loaded the drivers for the OpenEVSE Programmer and installed WinAVR last night and everything seemed to install without any problems.  Hopefully everything will proceed without any problems and the green LCD display will work.

[Izhar]

Hey lincomatic:

Firmware load to the OpenEVSE went through without any problems.  However, after the firmware load the display still did not work.  I think that the address of the display may be different from the default address.  I recall seeing a article where author explained how he used a program running on a Arduino Uno to find the address of a i2c LCD display.  So I will locate the article and see if I can run that program on a Uno that I have to determine the address of the green LCD display.  The possibility that the display will work is getting less likely, but I've gotten this far, so I might as well see it all the way through.

Izhar

[lincomatic]

just send me a program & library that works, and I’ll see what I can do. It might be as simple as changing the i2c address.

[Martii]

Hi,

I've built OpenEVSE_PLUS_v4 hardware and I have easy access to PCF8574. I was trying to recompile with PCF support with no success.

What FW version is best for this hardware? (is 5.x supported?)

I have tested LCD with http://www.mathertel.de/Arduino/LiquidCrystal_PCF8574.aspx - works great

but I have no way to make it work with openevse even if it's compatible with stock Arduino LCD library.

Any hints? What to change to make it work? Address is 0.x27 and it looks like the same as OpenEvse uses for PCF.

[Glenn Drayer]

I was never able to get it to work either. think Lincomatic put in in for Vegas Brad. It worked with his devices. I have gone with the DIY display with an external timer. That way I get the temperature step down. I do not get it with a 1307'

 

--------- Original Message ---------

Subject: Re: OpenEVSE LCD address
From: "Martii" <marcin.c...@gmail.com>
Date: 10/28/18 1:30 pm
To: "OpenEVSE" <open...@googlegroups.com>

Hi,

 

I've built OpenEVSE_PLUS_v4 hardware and I have easy access to PCF8574. I was trying to recompile with PCF support with no success.

 

What FW version is best for this hardware? (is 5.x supported?)

 

I have tested LCD with http://www.mathertel.de/Arduino/LiquidCrystal_PCF8574.aspx - works great

 

 

but I have to way to make it work with openevse.

[Marcin Chojnowski]

I have tried to use this new library with openevse but now I get plenty of errors saying two wire in not happy.

Is there any reason this project uses it's own libraries versions instead of stock Arduino? 

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[Martii]

The farthest I was able to get with original code was this:

I have also played with this line:

#ifdef I2CLCD_PCF8574
// Set the pins on the I2C chip used for LCD connections:
//                    addr, en,rw,rs,d4,d5,d6,d7,bl,blpol

Tried many pins configs with no success.

[Martii]

So now another question - I just noticed that push button is done via LCD i2c - PCF has all ports being used by LCD so I would need to make push button to work another way. Is it possible?

[Sam C. Lin]

Hi,

 

Sorry for the delayed reply. I have been busy the past week because my mother had a stroke.

I have responded to your issue on github:

https://github.com/lincomatic/open_evse/issues/97

 

Unfortunately, I don’t have a PCF8574 LCD, so I can’t directly test it. If we can’t get it working someone will have to send me

one to develop with. But let’s see if we can get it working w/o that first.

 

you can use a SPST_NO button directly connected between any I/O pin and GND. look for BTN_REG/BTN_IDX. Make sure RGBLCD is turned off, or it will enable ADAFRUIT_BTN, which assumes you are using the I2C button embedded in OpenEVSE/Adafruit RGB LCD.

[lincomatic]

I already explained that in my previous message. You don't need to hook up the button to I2C and the expander. Any I/O pin on the 328P will work

[lincomatic]

You have to change LCD_I2C_ADDR in open_evse.h and then recompile the firmware

--

[Marcin Chojnowski]

The address is fine - LCD works now. I'm looking into button now.

Marcin
jid: mchojnowski<at>gmail.com

For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[Marcin Chojnowski]

What PIN would you suggest to use? I did use original OpenEvse_Plus_v5 PCB just looking at the schematics I would not be using FTDI. I'm sure those  RX and TX pins can be used as regular ones but serial needs to be disabled. Am I thinking right?

Also I'm getting EVSE ERROR VENT REQUIRED - is there termistor I'm not aware of?

Marcin

[Sam C. Lin]

I would strongly recommend NOT using the RX/TX pins.

If you don’t have AUTH_LOCK enabled, then you can use the PP pin.

 

#define BTN_REG &PINC

#define BTN_IDX 2

[Marcin Chojnowski]

I do have Ford Focus electric and it doesn't have charge port lock at all. I was thinking about using PP but was not sure. Thanks for clarification. 

[lincomatic]

Forgot to address your VENT REQUIRED issue. Sounds like your

pilot voltage is wrong. Do you have the +-12V PSU

connected?

Sent from my iCrap

[Marcin Chojnowski]

You're right I'm giving it just usbasp power. Thanks again :-) for awesome support. 

[Marcin Chojnowski]

Hi,

Is it possible to DIY  GFCI and current sensing coil ?

Those are hard to get in central europe.

Marcin
jid: mchojnowski<at>gmail.com

[Sam C. Lin]

Not really.. impossible to calibrate

[Marcin Chojnowski]

So maybe I could use something else as those are hard to buy in Central Europe. I expect to do some minor changes to other components, right? 

[Glenn Drayer]

K have gone through a series of eBay coils. I have found this one works for both the GFCI coil and the current coil. I noticed the JuiceBox uses the same coil for both so I tried a series of cheap coils from China via eBay. Chris's coils are quite expensive. With a 27 ohm current load I find that 185 is about right. Usually I do not use the current coil qt all since I use an external meter that does volts. Amps, and KWH. It costs about ten dollars on eBay.. tt may be that Sam's calibration utility does not work with this coil but I do not use it..

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-AC-Current-Transformer-Coil-PZCT-100A-20mA-for-AC-Voltmeter-Ammeter/292592063504?epid=210077271

[Sam C. Lin]

The calibration utility should work w/ any coil assuming a fairly linear response

[Glenn Drayer]

Well, what can I say' I have never used p It may be easier than editing the source. The 100A 20Ma coil works great with my GFCI tester and it works as a GFCI coil. As a current coil it works fine but I like the multi function meter better. Your solution assumes only one voltage. For 240VAC it wonks fine but you have to choose the voltage. The external meter is auto switching, I9 HAVE NOT ACTUALLY TESTED  THE TRIP POINTS BUT IT DOES  NOT  TRIP AT 12ma and it does trip at 24N ma

 That is good enough for me.------- Original Message ---------

Subject: RE: Re: OpenEVSE LCD address

From: "Sam C. Lin" <linco...@gmail.com>
Date: 11/23/18 6:16 pm
To: open...@googlegroups.com

[Marcin Chojnowski]

This is great as I do purchase from Chinese from time to time. Thanks Glenn for this hint. 

[Glenn Drayer]

I do not purchase directly from China. I usually use eBay. Alibaba has better prices but I am stuck on eBay. Their 10% commission leads th higher prices usually but sometimes they are the same. In any event I do not begrudge a commission on smaller items.

[Glenn Drayer]

Even buying a lot of de funk coils I spent less than buying a pair of coils from Chris There is a lot to consider using the proper coils but the cheap ones work fine for me. It seems like the Chinese people do not have American profit margins. I guess the cost of living is low...

 

--------- Original Message ---------

Subject: Re: Re: OpenEVSE LCD address
From: "Marcin Chojnowski" <marcin.c...@gmail.com>

Date: 11/24/18 1:11 am
To: open...@googlegroups.com

This is great as I do purchase from Chinese from time to time. Thanks Glenn for this hint. 

On Sat, Nov 24, 2018, 05:42 Glenn Drayer <dra...@wb6pwj.com wrote:

Well, what can I say' I have never used p It may be easier than editing the source. The 100A 20Ma coil works great with my GFCI tester and it works as a GFCI coil. As a current coil it works fine but I like the multi function meter better. Your solution assumes only one voltage. For 240VAC it wonks fine but you have to choose the voltage. The external meter is auto switching, I9 HAVE NOT ACTUALLY TESTED  THE TRIP POINTS BUT IT DOES  NOT  TRIP AT 12ma and it does trip at 24N ma

 That is good enough for me.------- Original Message ---------

Subject: RE: Re: OpenEVSE LCD address
From: "Sam C. Lin" <linco...@gmail.com>
Date: 11/23/18 6:16 pm
To: open...@googlegroups.com

The calibration utility should work w/ any coil assuming a fairly linear response

 

From: open...@googlegroups.com <open...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Glenn Drayer
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2018 3:25 PM
To: open...@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Re: OpenEVSE LCD address

 

I have gone through a series of eBay coils. I have found this one works for both the GFCI coil and the current coil. I noticed the JuiceBox uses the same coil for both so I tried a series of cheap coils from China via eBay. Chris's coils are quite expensive. With a 27 ohm current load I find that 185 is about right. Usually I do not use the current coil at all since I use an external meter that does volts. Amps, and KWH. It costs about ten dollars on eBay. It may be that Sam's calibration utility does not work with this coil but I do not use it..

[chris1howell]

Glen, I wish profit margin was the reason our coils are more expensive than the cheep Chinese coils. The truth is we make almost nothing on coils.

Since we supply companies that certify product with UL. Our coils must be UL certified. We also must meet EVSE standards of 105C insulation. UL certification is very expensive and requires quarterly inspections which are also costly.

Our coil are built custom to these standards. Take a look at the standard coils with 80C insulation on Digikey, they are $12 - $13 each. Now imagine a small company with significantly less buying power than a giant like Digikey requiring a custom version.

Our cost is more than 5 -10x more than the cheep coils on eBay/Aliexpress. There is no way these would pass UL so we can't offer them for sale.

[Glenn Drayer]

Well for sure the coil is not UL certified. I really doubt the parts from China are certified. That said the parts are incredibly cheap. Resiatora 1% at less than a penny. . the PCB is around twenty-five dollars shipped for ten. Caps are around $.05 The  [power module I have been using is under $7 shipped. It is rated at 1A each voltage. Lesser supplies glitch. A half amp unit should work and at static voltages it is fine but it can not handle the relay load. It really is quite  though.

[Marcin Chojnowski]

Chris nobody said you're making a fortune on coils. The problem is that for example I live in Eastern Europe and $20 coil is rather expensive and also people here don't care about certificates but look for affordability. Also EV market here is tiny so most of us do DIY. Hence I need some affordable working solutions. 

[Nuno Leitao]

On my eyes, the biggest problem is not even the 20$. then you have shipping, then you have customs. Custom autorities in europe even charge tax over shipping...

-----

Cumprimentos   /   Kind Regards  /  Met vriendelijke groeten
Nuno Leitão

[Marcin Chojnowski]

Keep in mind that since some time you can buy those from UK partner. So no tax or customs are involved. 

[Nuno Leitao]

Not possible.

I built my evse in the beginning of September. I tried to get the maximum I could from the UK guys to skip customs.

After asking from a complete list of item for my case, I got this answer from the support.

"The guys in Europe do not sell parts, just full kits and stations."

So, don't expect to get parts there.

-----

Cumprimentos   /   Kind Regards  /  Met vriendelijke groeten
Nuno Leitão

[Marcin Chojnowski]

Haven't tried them as everything is way too expensive to me and as I'm capable of building it myself. There is also simple evse from Czech Republic but this has no self check routines and no coils used too. Anyway it's better to have some extra protection but maybe not UL certified as it makes things few times more expensive as we hear and I don't believe it makes device few times more secure. 

[Martii]

Are you saying DEFAULT_CURRENT_SCALE_FACTOR should be 185?