I see this come up once in a while as people want a cheap way to charge at L2 without calling an electrician.
There are a lot of caveats, but I think it can be done with a reasonable level of safety, IF it's done correctly.
The left two relays in the schematic are 120v coils, and the third is a 208/240 volt coil. DigiKey sells 120v and 208/240v coil versions of the exact same DPST relays the Hydra reference design uses for just under $15 each that are good for 30A.
Not shown in the schematic are two neon indicator lights across the two 120v relay coils and one across the two outlet hot lines. When all 3 are lit, you're good to go.
I believe that circuit is the minimum required to do this safely. It insures that there's 120v between each hot and its incoming neutral AND that there's 208/240 between the two hot lines before anything is connected to the outlet. It guards against asymmetric hots, same-phase connection, hot-neutral swaps and energized plugs when disconnected.
You must insure that the two outlets you pick are on different breakers sourced from opposite phases (there is no danger in getting it wrong - you just won't get the third light and it won't work). You must also insure that there are no GFIs present as this concept is actually guaranteed to make them trip (but again - if one trips there's no danger, it would just stop operating). You must also insure that you draw no more power than the *smaller* of the two breakers involved allows.
The circuit doesn't check that the ground is good - but OpenEVSE's own ground test would fail if it wasn't (assuming that's why you're using it).
We drive our Volt down to my parents' house in San Diego a few times a year and I've been charging with my portable OpenEVSE at L1, but I think for our next trip I will try to make one of these to see if we can't go at L2. Since it's a Volt, 16A L2 would max out it's charging speed, so there's no need to do any better than this (I might back it down to 12A just to be absolutely sure, though).