Not charging

[MikeEV]

My Open EVSE has been working great, but since yesterday when I plug it into my leaf it starts beeping and all three blue lights on the dashboard blink.  The openevse notices that it's connected, but won't engage to charge.  I suspect there is a problem with the J1772 connection to the car, but I don't see anything obvious.  The 110V EVSE that came with the car works.  Any ideas?  

Thanks,

Mike

[Craig Kirkpatrick]

Hmm, lately when I read symptoms like this my advice is to open up the EVSE enclosure and take a look and smell if anything seems to have overheated.  Post a picture.  And take a close inspection of the J1772 plug end (though nobody has reported anything there that I can remember).

[Michael Foley]

Thanks for the response Craig - I did open up the EVSE and everything looks fine.  I also noticed that the car still beeps and blinks when I plug in the J1772 without the OpenEVSE even having power (240 wall plug disconnected).  The J1722 plug end looks fine, I can't see any issues with it.

Thanks,

Mike

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "OpenEVSE" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to openevse+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[Craig Kirkpatrick]

Mike, So I wonder what has changed.  It was working fine and now there is a problem.  Can you identify anything that has changed?  I'm pondering this puzzle.

-Craig

[Michael Foley]

I'm not aware of any changes to it.  It worked fine Thursday night.  On Friday I had to park my car outside the garage so I used the 110 charge (my Open EVSE cable isn't long enough).  Then I went to charge the car Saturday night and noticed this problem.  I wonder if someone may have dropped the J1772 plug on the floor - there is a faint rattling when I shake it.  I may have to take that apart next.

[Craig Kirkpatrick]

That rattling doesn't sound good. I'd begin there. I hope it turns out to be something minor.
Best wishes,
Craig

[Danny ter Haar]

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 2:55:11 PM UTC-7, MikeEV wrote:

 I also noticed that the car still beeps and blinks when I plug in the J1772 without the OpenEVSE even having power (240 wall plug disconnected).  

That is normal and expected behaviour.

It's just the recognition of the car of the proximity signal. [thanks for the the correction Chris ]

Since it is just a resistor value and doesn't require power, that always works when you plug in a J1772 connector.

The resistors are in the plug/handle and when you press the release switch you also interrupt the resistor value to disengage the car.

Normally the next thing would be that the openevse give the PWM signal to tell the car how much amps it can draw, Openevse would engage the relais and the car would start charging.

IT seems something in your openevse stopped functioning. 

Like Craig said, photo's would probably help. 

[chris1howell .]

The beep indicated the EV proximity has detected the J1772 cable. The pilot comes next. Does the OpenEVSE change to "EV Connected"? If it does the pilot is okay. Next the relays should engage and the display should read "Charging". If you make it this far the next thing to check is relays, wiring and main fuses.

[Michael Foley]

I don't get the immediate single beep when I connect the J1772 - after a few seconds it goes into a 3 consecutive beep pattern that repeats for about 30 seconds (the three lights on the dash also blink in the same pattern).  The OpenEVSE does say EV Connected.  I will look further at it tonight and see what happens with the OpenEVSE simulator module - at least this could rule out or confirm the J1772 plug.

On Sun, Mar 22, 2015 at 6:48 PM, chris1howell . <chris1h...@gmail.com> wrote:

The beep indicated the EV proximity has detected the J1772 cable. The pilot comes next. Does the OpenEVSE change to "EV Connected"? If it does the pilot is okay. Next the relays should engage and the display should read "Charging". If you make it this far the next thing to check is relays, wiring and main fuses.

--

[chris1howell .]

If you do not get the initial beep. Check proximity on the handle with no power. If you measure the resistance ground to proximity pin you should read 150 and 480 ohms with the button pressed and released.

[Michael Foley]

Thanks Chris - I'll check that as soon as I get home tonight and post my findings - if I don't get the right resistance, is that something I can easily fix in the handle?

[EV@TucsonEV]

Proximity signal should be 150 with the button released and 480 with the button pressed.

 

Rush Dougherty

Tucson, AZ

 

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5856 / Virus Database: 4311/9366 - Release Date: 03/23/15

[Nick Sayer]

The circuit in the handle *should* be fairly simple. From the proximity wire, there's a 150 ohm resistor, and then a normally-closed monetary switch. In parallel with the switch is a 330 ohm resistor. At the far end of both is ground.

If something's gone wrong, it's quite frequently merely a mechanical thing - the switch may not be properly in place so that the button actuates it properly when pushed and de-acutates it when released.

[EV@TucsonEV]

Or the latch is not seating all the way in the Inlet/charging port and it keeps the switch in the open position/480 ohm and sends a signal for the charger in the EV to NOT charge.

Push down on the catch in the Inlet to make sure that the switch in the handle is in its proper state for charging, or you can put a bent paper clip in the hole on the push part of the latch and pull up on it while pushing in on the handle itself.

 

Rush Dougherty

Dougherty Designs

1014 E King St

Tucson, AZ 85719

520 240-7493

www.TucsonEV.com

 

From: open...@googlegroups.com [mailto:open...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Nick Sayer
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 11:42 AM
To: open...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Not charging

 

The circuit in the handle *should* be fairly simple. From the proximity wire, there's a 150 ohm resistor, and then a normally-closed monetary switch. In parallel with the switch is a 330 ohm resistor. At the far end of both is ground.

[Nick Sayer]

This.

I find sometimes that gently pulling up on the handle will pivot it so that the latch goes in a little further and clicks in.

The proximity switch isn’t really about the button, it’s about the latch. The idea is that the latch is supposed to prevent you from being able to just yank the connector out without the car being told it’s about to happen. This prevents any possibility that there might be an arc as you withdraw the connector.

> On Mar 23, 2015, at 12:55 PM, EV@TucsonEV <E...@TucsonEV.com> wrote:
>
> Or the latch is not seating all the way in the Inlet/charging port and it keeps the switch in the open position/480 ohm and sends a signal for the charger in the EV to NOTe.

>
> Push down on the catch in the Inlet to make sure that the switch in the handle is in its proper state for charging, or you can put a bent paper clip in the hole on the push part of the latch and pull up on it while pushing in on the handle itself.
>
> Rush Dougherty
> Dougherty Designs
> 1014 E King St
> Tucson, AZ 85719
> 520 240-7493
> www.TucsonEV.com
>
> From: open...@googlegroups.com [mailto:open...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Nick Sayer
> Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 11:42 AM
> To: open...@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: Not charging
>
> The circuit in the handle *should* be fairly simple. From the proximity wire, there's a 150 ohm resistor, and then a normally-closed monetary switch. In parallel with the switch is a 330 ohm resistor. At the far end of both is ground.
>
> If something's gone wrong, it's quite frequently merely a mechanical thing - the switch may not be properly in place so that the button actuates it properly when pushed and de-acutates it when released.
>
>
>

> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "OpenEVSE" group.
> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/openevse/7pWhYi-RQqg/unsubscribe.
> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to openevse+u...@googlegroups.com.

[EV@TucsonEV]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean Nick...

The 'button' is an integral part of the latch. If the latch doesn't seat
correctly, the button is 'down' in the handle and the switch is still in its
open/480 ohm position, so the car will not charge. If you push down on the latch
to seat it, or pull up on the button or as you say, ' gently pulling up on the
handle will pivot it so that the latch goes in a little further and clicks in' all
accomplish the same thing - make the switch, which is controlled by the latch
position go from closed to open, or 480 ohms to 150 ohms and the car should start
charging.

Rush Dougherty
www.TucsonEV.com

> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "OpenEVSE" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email

> to
> openevse+u...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
>

> -----

[EV@TucsonEV]

Actually the J1772 Spec takes care of this arc, hot disconnect which people
complain about -

The pilot pin is the shortest of the pins so it makes contact last, and breaks
first. So even if the latch is broken, no hook on it to prevent it from being
pulled out, as soon as the pilot pin breaks contact, the CONTACTOR in the EVSE is
supposed to terminate charge within 100ms (page 19 of J1772 Spec, Transition 2,
State =x to State A, 100ms max, delay from disconnect until the contactor opens
and terminates AC energy transfer).

100 ms is about the distance light travels in the length of Earth's equator...
pretty fast and I doubt that your hand will reach that speed in the even short
distance between the pilot pin and hot pin length distance.

Which brings up a point - the word 'relay' is mentioned only ONE time in the whole
J1772 Spec (page 31 - c. Switch S2 need not be a mechanical switch or relay. At
least one vehicle manufacturer is successfully using an FET for this purpose). The
word 'contactor' is mentioned at least 22 times. Does that mean that the writers
of the J1772 Spec meant for a contactor to be used?

Rush Dougherty
Dougherty Designs
1014 E King St
Tucson, AZ 85719
520 240-7493
www.TucsonEV.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: open...@googlegroups.com [mailto:open...@googlegroups.com]

[Nick Sayer]

> On Mar 23, 2015, at 1:50 PM, EV@TucsonEV <E...@TucsonEV.com> wrote:
>
> Actually the J1772 Spec takes care of this arc, hot disconnect which people
> complain about -
>
> The pilot pin is the shortest of the pins so it makes contact last, and breaks
> first. So even if the latch is broken, no hook on it to prevent it from being
> pulled out, as soon as the pilot pin breaks contact, the CONTACTOR in the EVSE is
> supposed to terminate charge within 100ms (page 19 of J1772 Spec, Transition 2,
> State =x to State A, 100ms max, delay from disconnect until the contactor opens
> and terminates AC energy transfer).

That’s the EVSE’s response to a disconnect. The vehicle doesn’t open the contactor, after all.

The vehicle is given 100 ms to respond to a proximity transition, but I don’t believe the spec requires a fast response from the vehicle to any pilot alterations.

If the vehicle is drawing current and there is a *pilot* break, then the arc will be within the contactor, which is still to be avoided.

>
> 100 ms is about the distance light travels in the length of Earth's equator...
> pretty fast and I doubt that your hand will reach that speed in the even short
> distance between the pilot pin and hot pin length distance.
>
> Which brings up a point - the word 'relay' is mentioned only ONE time in the whole
> J1772 Spec (page 31 - c. Switch S2 need not be a mechanical switch or relay. At
> least one vehicle manufacturer is successfully using an FET for this purpose). The
> word 'contactor' is mentioned at least 22 times. Does that mean that the writers
> of the J1772 Spec meant for a contactor to be used?

I think it’s orthogonal to the specification’s purpose whether the coil for whatever-you-want-to-call-it is line powered or LVDC powered. So far as I am aware, the only distinction between relays and contactors is either in the semantics of the jargon of the industry in which they’re discussed, or the voltage spec of the coil.

>
> Rush Dougherty
> Dougherty Designs
> 1014 E King St
> Tucson, AZ 85719
> 520 240-7493
> www.TucsonEV.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: open...@googlegroups.com [mailto:open...@googlegroups.com]
>> Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 12:58 PM
>> To: open...@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: Not charging
>
>> This prevents any possibility
>> that there might be an arc as you withdraw the connector.
>
>
>

[EV@TucsonEV]

Nick wrote -

> -----Original Message-----
> From: open...@googlegroups.com [mailto:open...@googlegroups.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 2:08 PM
> To: open...@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: Not charging
>
>

> > On Mar 23, 2015, at 1:50 PM, EV@TucsonEV <E...@TucsonEV.com> wrote:
> >
> > Actually the J1772 Spec takes care of this arc, hot disconnect which
> > people complain about -
> >
> > The pilot pin is the shortest of the pins so it makes contact last,
> > and breaks first. So even if the latch is broken, no hook on it to
> > prevent it from being pulled out, as soon as the pilot pin breaks
> > contact, the CONTACTOR in the EVSE is supposed to terminate charge
> > within 100ms (page 19 of J1772 Spec, Transition 2, State =x to State
> > A, 100ms max, delay from disconnect until the contactor opens and terminates
> > AC
> energy transfer).
>
> That's the EVSE's response to a disconnect. The vehicle doesn't open the
> contactor,
> after all.

That's entirely correct. Normally that is how the Proximity works also... the
change in value of the proximity circuit opens the contactor in the EV charger and
therefor there is no current flowing and no hot disconnect. When the pilot pin is
disengaged, the EVSE opens the contactor.

> The vehicle is given 100 ms to respond to a proximity transition, but I don't
> believe
> the spec requires a fast response from the vehicle to any pilot alterations.

Take a look at P 15 of the J1772 Spec, Table 8 states that the EVSE transition
from any STATE, STATE X, to STATE A, Vehicle not connected, will be 100ms max.

If you look further down Table 8 to Transition 13, the max transition time for the
EV/PHEV to react to a change of the pilot from closed (unpushed latch) to open
(pushed latch) is also 100ms, the same as the EVSE transition. So again this is a
further safety margin. If the Contactor in the EVSE does not open, then the
Contactor in the EV/PHEV is already open, so that there is no possibility of
arcing or hot disconnect.

> If the vehicle is drawing current and there is a *pilot* break, then the arc
> will be

> within the contactor, which is still to be avoided.[Rush Dougherty]

STATE A is 'Vehicle not connected' and the contactor is not passing current, so
how can there be an arc?

> > 100 ms is about the distance light travels in the length of Earth's equator...
> > pretty fast and I doubt that your hand will reach that speed in the
> > even short distance between the pilot pin and hot pin length distance.
> >
> > Which brings up a point - the word 'relay' is mentioned only ONE time
> > in the whole
> > J1772 Spec (page 31 - c. Switch S2 need not be a mechanical switch or
> > relay. At least one vehicle manufacturer is successfully using an FET
> > for this purpose). The word 'contactor' is mentioned at least 22
> > times. Does that mean that the writers of the J1772 Spec meant for a contactor
> > to
> be used?
>
> I think it's orthogonal to the specification's purpose whether the coil for
> whatever-
> you-want-to-call-it is line powered or LVDC powered. So far as I am aware, the
> only
> distinction between relays and contactors is either in the semantics of the
> jargon of
> the industry in which they're discussed, or the voltage spec of the coil.

Had to look orthogonal up in the dictionary... one of the major distinctions is
that the majority of relays will fail closed and that contactors will fail open.
So if you are using a relay and it fails, the possibility of the power being on is
much greater than if a contactor fails. There is also minor leakage from a relay,
there is none from a contactor.

Best

Rush Dougherty
Dougherty Designs
1014 E King St
Tucson, AZ 85719
520 240-7493
www.TucsonEV.com
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: open...@googlegroups.com [mailto:open...@googlegroups.com]
> >> Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 12:58 PM
> >> To: open...@googlegroups.com
> >> Subject: Re: Not charging
> >
> >> This prevents any possibility
> >> that there might be an arc as you withdraw the connector.
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google
> Groups "OpenEVSE" group.
> > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/openevse/7pWhYi-RQqg/unsubscribe.
> > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to
> openevse+u...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> --

> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "OpenEVSE" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email

> to
> openevse+u...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
>

[Nick Sayer]

> On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:40 PM, EV@TucsonEV <E...@TucsonEV.com> wrote:
>
> Nick wrote -
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: open...@googlegroups.com [mailto:open...@googlegroups.com]
>> Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 2:08 PM
>> To: open...@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: Not charging
>>
>>
>>> On Mar 23, 2015, at 1:50 PM, EV@TucsonEV <E...@TucsonEV.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Actually the J1772 Spec takes care of this arc, hot disconnect which
>>> people complain about -
>>>
>>> The pilot pin is the shortest of the pins so it makes contact last,
>>> and breaks first. So even if the latch is broken, no hook on it to
>>> prevent it from being pulled out, as soon as the pilot pin breaks
>>> contact, the CONTACTOR in the EVSE is supposed to terminate charge
>>> within 100ms (page 19 of J1772 Spec, Transition 2, State =x to State
>>> A, 100ms max, delay from disconnect until the contactor opens and terminates
>>> AC
>> energy transfer).
>>
>> That's the EVSE's response to a disconnect. The vehicle doesn't open the
>> contactor,
>> after all.
>
> That's entirely correct. Normally that is how the Proximity works also... the
> change in value of the proximity circuit opens the contactor in the EV charger

No it doesn’t. Proximity isn’t even connected to most EVSEs. Proximity is a signal to the vehicle. The spec says the vehicle must stop drawing significant current within 100 ms of a transition. The spec doesn’t *actually* require the vehicle to even return to state B. It just must not be drawing power.

> and
> therefor there is no current flowing and no hot disconnect. When the pilot pin is
> disengaged, the EVSE opens the contactor.

Sure, but the proximity transition has already caused the vehicle to quite pulling current way before then, which is what prevents the arc.

If the proximity signal is ineffective, such as is the case if the end of the latch is broken off, which allows withdrawal of the plug without pushing the button, then the contactor will arc. The short pilot pin will prevent the arc from occurring in the connector because the hot pins are still touching. So it’s safe to the user, but it still will shorten the contactor’s lifespan.

>
>> The vehicle is given 100 ms to respond to a proximity transition, but I don't
>> believe
>> the spec requires a fast response from the vehicle to any pilot alterations.
>
> Take a look at P 15 of the J1772 Spec, Table 8 states that the EVSE transition
> from any STATE, STATE X, to STATE A, Vehicle not connected, will be 100ms max.
>
> If you look further down Table 8 to Transition 13, the max transition time for the
> EV/PHEV to react to a change of the pilot from closed (unpushed latch) to open
> (pushed latch) is also 100ms, the same as the EVSE transition. So again this is a
> further safety margin. If the Contactor in the EVSE does not open, then the
> Contactor in the EV/PHEV is already open, so that there is no possibility of
> arcing or hot disconnect.

I am not 100% sure that the EV is required to use a contactor. I believe the spec simply requires that the EV stop pulling “significant” current within 100 ms of a proximity transition. How the EV chooses to do that is its own business.

But it’s not a further safety margin, really. It’s one step in a complex dance. You push the button and the EV stops drawing current. The EV can, at its discretion, transition to state B. If it fails to do so, then the EVSE will open the contactor itself when it sees the transition to state A. But the proximity transition will prevent THAT from happening under load.

If the proximity transition fails to occur, then the transition to state A will cause an arc in the contactor, but that’s at least a more positive outcome than an arc in the handle.

>
>> If the vehicle is drawing current and there is a *pilot* break, then the arc
>> will be
>> within the contactor, which is still to be avoided.[Rush Dougherty]
>
> STATE A is 'Vehicle not connected' and the contactor is not passing current, so
> how can there be an arc?

It’s in the transition. If you have a vehicle happily drawing power and you take a pair of wire cutters and snip the pilot line, there will be an arc in the contactor, because the EVSE will be first to react. The vehicle is given a comparatively geologic amount of time to react to pilot changes.

>
>>> 100 ms is about the distance light travels in the length of Earth's equator...
>>> pretty fast and I doubt that your hand will reach that speed in the
>>> even short distance between the pilot pin and hot pin length distance.
>>>
>>> Which brings up a point - the word 'relay' is mentioned only ONE time
>>> in the whole
>>> J1772 Spec (page 31 - c. Switch S2 need not be a mechanical switch or
>>> relay. At least one vehicle manufacturer is successfully using an FET
>>> for this purpose). The word 'contactor' is mentioned at least 22
>>> times. Does that mean that the writers of the J1772 Spec meant for a contactor
>>> to
>> be used?
>>
>> I think it's orthogonal to the specification's purpose whether the coil for
>> whatever-
>> you-want-to-call-it is line powered or LVDC powered. So far as I am aware, the
>> only
>> distinction between relays and contactors is either in the semantics of the
>> jargon of
>> the industry in which they're discussed, or the voltage spec of the coil.
>
> Had to look orthogonal up in the dictionary... one of the major distinctions is
> that the majority of relays will fail closed and that contactors will fail open.
> So if you are using a relay and it fails, the possibility of the power being on is
> much greater than if a contactor fails. There is also minor leakage from a relay,
> there is none from a contactor.

In looking at a typical relay and contactor design, I don’t see how the failure modes would be different (I’m not saying you’re wrong, just that I don’t know). Either can only fail closed if the contacts become welded. There’s a spring that will pull them apart and keep them apart until/unless the coil’s magnetic field is sufficient to overcome the spring resistance.

[chris1howell .]

A proximity event does not require a state change. Most EVs stop pulling current with a proximity event and stay in State C. The EVSE does not go to State B or A until the pilot is lost.

At least one EV that I have been told (Honda Fit) does both stop pulling current and requests State B causing the relays to drop.

Russ I think you are comparing Solid State Relays (SSRs) to Contactors.

The mechanical relays used in the 30 A kits are SPST-NO 1 Form X. They are normally open and are mechanical so neither of your comments apply, they fail open and do not leak.

[Nick Sayer]

> On Mar 23, 2015, at 3:00 PM, chris1howell . <chris1h...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> A proximity event does not require a state change. Most EVs stop pulling current with a proximity event and stay in State C. The EVSE does not go to State B or A until the pilot is lost.
>
> At least one EV that I have been told (Honda Fit) does both stop pulling current and requests State B causing the relays to drop.

I can confirm that (I’ve got a Fit), but I can also tell you the state B transition takes WAY longer than 100 ms.

>
> Russ I think you are comparing Solid State Relays (SSRs) to Contactors.
>
> The mechanical relays used in the 30 A kits are SPST-NO 1 Form X. They are normally open and are mechanical so neither of your comments apply, they fail open and do not leak.
>
>

[Michael Foley]

I did confirm that the proximity switch is working - I get 150 ohms and then 480 when I press the button.  Should I try the simulator to confirm the EVSE is working?  I may not get to testing that for a few days - any other easy tests I can do without taking apart the whole thing?

Thanks,

Mike

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "OpenEVSE" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to openevse+u...@googlegroups.com.

[Nick Sayer]

That's a good next step. 

If you have a voltmeter and are EXTREMELY CAREFUL you can verify that you get the expected voltage across the two hot lines in state C. 

Sent from my iPhone

[Craig Kirkpatrick]

Mike, Now you know more about the proximity signal than you every thought possible :-)   Reading through all that discussion helps me a lot but your situation is it was working fine and now not working.  

I re-read what you first wrote and If you did not tell me it was working earlier I would say to check that the pilot signal is firmly attached to the EVSE and that you have ground from the EVSE controller board tied to the ground block and the big AC wire grounds tied there too.

I'm thinking we need to return to basics to debug this.

You said that the EVSE never indicates a state change from Connected to Charging.  Is that right?

I'm still puzzled, especially if this was working previously.  Give us some more information or pictures of what you are observing.

-Craig

[Michael Foley]

Everything checked out with the simulator - I'm back to suspecting it's something with the plug.  I noticed that when I plug the J1772 into the car, even after lifting slightly to get the latch to engage, the button remains slightly pressed.  Most likely the latch is not coming down far enough for the switch on the proximity to switch.  I've tried wiggling it but am not able to get it to work.  I'll stop at Home Depot in the morning to see if they have a tamper torx head so I can take apart the plug and see if there are any mechanical adjustments that can be made.  Most likely THD will not have the tamper torx head so I will have to order on line and wait a few more days.

[Craig Kirkpatrick]

Mike, Ok that could explain it.  You said somebody dropped the plug.  So maybe something is deformed a bit in the plastic or if that shows no damage then maybe something as simple as the button spring is not in play.

Best Wishes,

Craig

[Michael Foley]

Hey Craig - this experience did definitely help me learn more about the J1772 requirements, so I thank you and everyone else on this thread for the education.  To answer your questions, yes this was previously working for over a year now (some minor downtime a few months ago while I replaced some burnt relays and fuse holder, most likely due to poor crimping).  And yes, it detects it is connected, but never goes to charging (using the simulator I was able to change state).  

[EV@TucsonEV]

Great Michael,

I see that my email about the latch not fully seating might be the cause of the EVSE not charging.

Here’s a much more simple fix instead of taking the plug apart, you just might file down the latch where the latch and the inlet mate to give the latch more clearance.

Best,

 

Rush Dougherty

Dougherty Designs

1014 E King St

Tucson, AZ 85719

520 240-7493

www.TucsonEV.com

 

From: open...@googlegroups.com [mailto:open...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael Foley
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 6:03 PM
To: open...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Not charging

 

Hey Craig - this experience did definitely help me learn more about the J1772 requirements, so I thank you and everyone else on this thread for the education.  To answer your questions, yes this was previously working for over a year now (some minor downtime a few months ago while I replaced some burnt relays and fuse holder, most likely due to poor crimping).  And yes, it detects it is connected, but never goes to charging (using the simulator I was able to change state).  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

Version: 2015.0.5856 / Virus Database: 4311/9368 - Release Date: 03/23/15