DRO-350/DPU-550 questions
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Greg
May 20, 2010, 4:25:35 PM5/20/10
to OpenDRO users' group
Maybe you guys can help (originally posted to the other group)...
It's been a while since there was a lot of talk about the DPU-550 and
a lot of
time has passed since I worked on it. Getting ready to do the upgrade
and found
some questions that may or may not have been answered in the past.
The Pic/Arm jumper - Needed, not needed, set to which position?
Erase jumper - Needed, not needed?
I built the full version, aside from the extra jumper to go between
the power
out and the DRO-350, what else did I need to do change to the DPU-550
board? I
thought there was a resistor or something that needed to be removed?
If it was
that a component needed to be added, I have no empty pads so I must
have already
added it but I seem to recall something like R7 or R8 had to be
removed (or
traces cut) or something like that when you added the 5 volt section
to the DPU
board.
Thanks.
It's been a while since there was a lot of talk about the DPU-550 and
a lot of
time has passed since I worked on it. Getting ready to do the upgrade
and found
some questions that may or may not have been answered in the past.
The Pic/Arm jumper - Needed, not needed, set to which position?
Erase jumper - Needed, not needed?
I built the full version, aside from the extra jumper to go between
the power
out and the DRO-350, what else did I need to do change to the DPU-550
board? I
thought there was a resistor or something that needed to be removed?
If it was
that a component needed to be added, I have no empty pads so I must
have already
added it but I seem to recall something like R7 or R8 had to be
removed (or
traces cut) or something like that when you added the 5 volt section
to the DPU
board.
Thanks.
Rick Sparber
May 20, 2010, 5:18:13 PM5/20/10
to opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
Greg,
You should be able to find answers at:
http://rick.sparber.org/HWG550.pdf
I wrote the document as I was installing the upgrade so there should be
nothing missing.
If you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Rick
You should be able to find answers at:
http://rick.sparber.org/HWG550.pdf
I wrote the document as I was installing the upgrade so there should be
nothing missing.
If you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Rick
Bruce Fairman
May 20, 2010, 5:19:34 PM5/20/10
to opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
see below.
--Thanks,
bruce
KE6OKC
On 2010 May, 20, at 13:25, Greg wrote:
> Maybe you guys can help (originally posted to the other group)...
>
> It's been a while since there was a lot of talk about the DPU-550 and
> a lot of
> time has passed since I worked on it. Getting ready to do the upgrade
> and found
> some questions that may or may not have been answered in the past.
>
> The Pic/Arm jumper - Needed, not needed, set to which position?
>
not needed - it allows the nrst(arm) or the pic reset to be grounded. not much use, actually.
> I built the full version, aside from the extra jumper to go between
> the power
> out and the DRO-350, what else did I need to do change to the DPU-550
> board? I
> thought there was a resistor or something that needed to be removed?
on the dr0350 board, remove r2 and r28, replace them with jumper. remove q1, as well. in fact, all of the jdm programmer can be removed.
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'''''''''''''''''''''''''''.......................................////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> Thanks.
--Thanks,
bruce
KE6OKC
On 2010 May, 20, at 13:25, Greg wrote:
> Maybe you guys can help (originally posted to the other group)...
>
> It's been a while since there was a lot of talk about the DPU-550 and
> a lot of
> time has passed since I worked on it. Getting ready to do the upgrade
> and found
> some questions that may or may not have been answered in the past.
>
> The Pic/Arm jumper - Needed, not needed, set to which position?
>
> Erase jumper - Needed, not needed?
>
only needed if you are having trouble with loading the flash or getting into sam-ba mode. if trubs, then try powering up with this jumper installed, then power down and try the problematic sequence again. you should hold down the tst button on the power up to go into sam-ba mode after clearing the flash.
>
> I built the full version, aside from the extra jumper to go between
> the power
> out and the DRO-350, what else did I need to do change to the DPU-550
> board? I
> thought there was a resistor or something that needed to be removed?
> If it was
> that a component needed to be added, I have no empty pads so I must
> have already
> added it but I seem to recall something like R7 or R8 had to be
> removed (or
> traces cut) or something like that when you added the 5 volt section
> to the DPU
> board.
>
r7, r8 should not be populated on the dpu add on board. make sure you have the software that properly has the arm pull-ups for the scale data and clock lines properly set. the dro350 comparator outputs have a 10k pull-up resistor but the dpu board comparators do not have this 10k, so the arm pullups need to be enabled. the comparator output is tristate, so when it is not driven, the output floats. this makes scale 4 and 5 behave badly. i think 0.3.2 has the fixes.
> that a component needed to be added, I have no empty pads so I must
> have already
> added it but I seem to recall something like R7 or R8 had to be
> removed (or
> traces cut) or something like that when you added the 5 volt section
> to the DPU
> board.
>
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'''''''''''''''''''''''''''.......................................////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> Thanks.
Greg
May 20, 2010, 8:51:38 PM5/20/10
to OpenDRO users' group
Thanks. On my board R7and R8 are soldered from the factory and by the
trace size it looks like they have something to do with the power
supply that normally goes to the PIC.
Rick, I looked at your guide quickly, then noticed you had a prototype
in all the pictures and stopped looking. I'll take another look at it
tomorrow.
trace size it looks like they have something to do with the power
supply that normally goes to the PIC.
Rick, I looked at your guide quickly, then noticed you had a prototype
in all the pictures and stopped looking. I'll take another look at it
tomorrow.
Bruce Fairman
May 20, 2010, 9:24:41 PM5/20/10
to opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
the r7 and r8 problem is that when the board is lite (no onboard 5v supply) then the 5v on the 350 board has a reason to go thru the pic socket. when the dru is built out, then it has a 5v supply of its own so the r7, r8 path connects 2 5v supplies (the switcher on the dru and the linear on the dro350) and causes problems.
with the full dru, the 5v on board is for the onboard scale interfaces that use 5v, but the 5v supply on the dro350 supplies the three scale interfaces on the 350.
curiously, the only thing that the r7 5v goes to is the 5v on the dru, which in the lite config is not connected to anything.
you can probably leave r8 in place since it is just ground.
--Thanks,
bruce
KE6OKC
with the full dru, the 5v on board is for the onboard scale interfaces that use 5v, but the 5v supply on the dro350 supplies the three scale interfaces on the 350.
curiously, the only thing that the r7 5v goes to is the 5v on the dru, which in the lite config is not connected to anything.
you can probably leave r8 in place since it is just ground.
--Thanks,
bruce
KE6OKC
Greg
May 20, 2010, 9:31:49 PM5/20/10
to OpenDRO users' group
I finally found the threads from 9 months ago and started reading and
Yahoo groups stopped working, never fails.
Going to leave this as a place holder for later.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ShumaTech/message/13606
Yahoo groups stopped working, never fails.
Going to leave this as a place holder for later.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ShumaTech/message/13606
Rick
May 20, 2010, 10:41:06 PM5/20/10
to opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
Greg,
Please let me know if the document is out of date. If it is I will
remove it.
Rick (via iPod)
Please let me know if the document is out of date. If it is I will
remove it.
Rick (via iPod)
Greg
May 21, 2010, 11:59:35 AM5/21/10
to OpenDRO users' group
Rick,
The differences are that your picture looks different from mine. The
assembled 350/dpu is no longer referred to as a 550. Mine came with
little rubber feet. And you don't mention that the R7 and R8 should be
removed if you are using the full version. For a corrected version the
upgraded machine should now be called an orfan (my opinion) since it
is mostly now ignored and and several lite boards are in stock that
will probably never sell. The only good thing is that the firmware
still seems to work for the DPU boards, but it will never have the new
LCD option that allows for addition information to be displayed (like
4th and 5th scale)
If I remember the timeline properly, you received the board from the
initial set that Scott used for testing. As far as I know there were
no full version boards sold by anyone except Lester and maybe Gary and
those were made on site from a lite board.
I don't have a decent camera with me or I could send a new picture.
FYI I decided to cut the traces for R7 and R8 so that they could be
repaired in the future if for some reason I needed them to be
connected. I don't anticipate pulling all the other components off the
board, but you never know in the end. Since I have 2 of the DRO550
units coming my 350/dpu will be for sale as soon as I build up a 550.
I may also solder the old PIC back on top of the DPU since it would
only take a jumper change to put it back in service. It looks like the
resonator can be left on the 350 board.
The differences are that your picture looks different from mine. The
assembled 350/dpu is no longer referred to as a 550. Mine came with
little rubber feet. And you don't mention that the R7 and R8 should be
removed if you are using the full version. For a corrected version the
upgraded machine should now be called an orfan (my opinion) since it
is mostly now ignored and and several lite boards are in stock that
will probably never sell. The only good thing is that the firmware
still seems to work for the DPU boards, but it will never have the new
LCD option that allows for addition information to be displayed (like
4th and 5th scale)
If I remember the timeline properly, you received the board from the
initial set that Scott used for testing. As far as I know there were
no full version boards sold by anyone except Lester and maybe Gary and
those were made on site from a lite board.
I don't have a decent camera with me or I could send a new picture.
FYI I decided to cut the traces for R7 and R8 so that they could be
repaired in the future if for some reason I needed them to be
connected. I don't anticipate pulling all the other components off the
board, but you never know in the end. Since I have 2 of the DRO550
units coming my 350/dpu will be for sale as soon as I build up a 550.
I may also solder the old PIC back on top of the DPU since it would
only take a jumper change to put it back in service. It looks like the
resonator can be left on the 350 board.
Rick Sparber
May 21, 2010, 12:35:40 PM5/21/10
to opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
Greg,
Thanks for the update. I'll pull the article since it can only confuse
people now.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
[mailto:opendro-u...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Greg
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 9:00 AM
To: OpenDRO users' group
Thanks for the update. I'll pull the article since it can only confuse
people now.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
[mailto:opendro-u...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Greg
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 9:00 AM
To: OpenDRO users' group
Greg
May 21, 2010, 4:46:22 PM5/21/10
to OpenDRO users' group
Rick, I think you should correct it and leave it up. I can get you a
picture this weekend if you are interested in fixing the guide, your
site is the first place I went when I started this part of the project
back up, it is valuable even if some other people want it to go away.
Since I will need to order some parts to get this installed (never did
buy MTA connectors), I printed out your 350 guide so I can at least do
some work that has been waiting more than a year. Again it was
valuable when you made it, if it is updated it will be just as
valuable in the future.
Also according to Lester, you do not need to remove the crystal
oscillator, he said he did a few like this and it works fine, so I
plan on being lazy and doing the same thing.
picture this weekend if you are interested in fixing the guide, your
site is the first place I went when I started this part of the project
back up, it is valuable even if some other people want it to go away.
Since I will need to order some parts to get this installed (never did
buy MTA connectors), I printed out your 350 guide so I can at least do
some work that has been waiting more than a year. Again it was
valuable when you made it, if it is updated it will be just as
valuable in the future.
Also according to Lester, you do not need to remove the crystal
oscillator, he said he did a few like this and it works fine, so I
plan on being lazy and doing the same thing.
Rick Sparber
May 21, 2010, 4:58:30 PM5/21/10
to opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
Greg,
Please sent me the needed corrections and I will see how much work needs to
be done.
I have also pulled the software installation guide. I'm sure it has similar
problems.
Thanks,
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
[mailto:opendro-u...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Greg
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 1:46 PM
To: OpenDRO users' group
Subject: Re: DRO-350/DPU-550 questions
Please sent me the needed corrections and I will see how much work needs to
be done.
I have also pulled the software installation guide. I'm sure it has similar
problems.
Thanks,
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
[mailto:opendro-u...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Greg
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 1:46 PM
To: OpenDRO users' group
Subject: Re: DRO-350/DPU-550 questions
Greg
May 21, 2010, 10:21:41 PM5/21/10
to OpenDRO users' group
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v329/Greg_E/pics/dpu550.jpg
I think the software loading steps are still the same, press the
button at power up which puts the MCU into bootloader mode, start the
SAM-BA application, choose the file and hit the go button. I'll know
more as soon as I get connectors in and cut the back of the case.
I think the software loading steps are still the same, press the
button at power up which puts the MCU into bootloader mode, start the
SAM-BA application, choose the file and hit the go button. I'll know
more as soon as I get connectors in and cut the back of the case.
Rick Sparber
May 24, 2010, 9:22:26 AM5/24/10
to opendro-u...@googlegroups.com
Greg,
Thanks for the picture. I have added it to the beginning of the hardware
install document. Beyond being a far clearer picture, I don't see much
difference. Does the procedure need changes to accommodate this version of
the board? I know it now comes with bumpers but I would hope that the users
would be able to figure that one out.
Thanks for the picture. I have added it to the beginning of the hardware
install document. Beyond being a far clearer picture, I don't see much
difference. Does the procedure need changes to accommodate this version of
the board? I know it now comes with bumpers but I would hope that the users
would be able to figure that one out.
Greg
May 24, 2010, 10:42:09 AM5/24/10
to OpenDRO users' group
Only the procedure for the full version in which case it just needs R7
removed or the trace cut. Apparently R8 is a 0 ohm "jumper" on the
ground, if I had checked the value I would have left that trace
connected. Also note that the official instructions say to NEVER
jumper the scales vertically. I parked my jumpers in that position
because it has a common trace across those pins. Not sure what if any
scales will get placed on those connectors, but wanted to make sure I
had jumpers available when I did.
I will probably try programming mine today, pretty sure it is install
SAM-BA, power up DRO with button pressed and hold for several seconds,
plug in USB cable, push .bin file over to the processor, reboot. After
closing the SAM-BA I should have a regular comm port show up and I
should be able to talk to it with VDRO (since I can't connect it to my
350 yet). Thinking I should solder some caps to the back side of the
scale connectors while I have this board out, and maybe run a ground
mod while I'm at it. Not sure if it is needed, but now would be the
best time to deal with it.
removed or the trace cut. Apparently R8 is a 0 ohm "jumper" on the
ground, if I had checked the value I would have left that trace
connected. Also note that the official instructions say to NEVER
jumper the scales vertically. I parked my jumpers in that position
because it has a common trace across those pins. Not sure what if any
scales will get placed on those connectors, but wanted to make sure I
had jumpers available when I did.
I will probably try programming mine today, pretty sure it is install
SAM-BA, power up DRO with button pressed and hold for several seconds,
plug in USB cable, push .bin file over to the processor, reboot. After
closing the SAM-BA I should have a regular comm port show up and I
should be able to talk to it with VDRO (since I can't connect it to my
350 yet). Thinking I should solder some caps to the back side of the
scale connectors while I have this board out, and maybe run a ground
mod while I'm at it. Not sure if it is needed, but now would be the
best time to deal with it.
Greg
May 24, 2010, 2:00:30 PM5/24/10
to OpenDRO users' group
As far as the programming guide goes, I just did things exactly the
way Scott has it listed on his site, seems like everything went fine
so I don't think there needs to be a guide to sending the firmware to
the DPU.
way Scott has it listed on his site, seems like everything went fine
so I don't think there needs to be a guide to sending the firmware to
the DPU.
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