Designing it in such a way that the "average person"can build it seems
On Nov 10, 4:55 am, Mark Norton <markjnor...@gmail.com> wrote:
> While we are trying to create a steam engine design that can be built by
> the "average" person, there are minimum things that will need to
> stipulated. Some skill with metal working will be required - how much
> depends on the actual design. I may actually be possible to handle a range
> of skills, for example:
>
> "Tolerance between piston rings mounted on a piston head and the cylinder
> wall is an important aspect of the engine design. It needs to move freely
> yet provide a good seal. The better you can do, the more efficient your
> engine will be. If you are lathing your own piston rings you can improve
> the fit to the cylinder wall by ..."
>
> In this way, a person of average skill with fair equipment will be able to
> build an engine. A person with better tools and more skill will be able to
> build a better engine from the same design. The challenge to us to enable
> that average person to succeed.
>
> - Mark
to be a good strategy, IMO. But it should be mentioned that this "can
build" also depends on the dimensions of the design. A design with a
Ř8" piston may be manufacturable in a well eqipped home shop, while
the same design scaled to Ř30" can't be manufactured in any homeshop
We're talking about prime movers. If a plan is drawn with loose
tolerances and an "average" man produces the engine, the thing will
probably work... We have a participant that created a video channel
showing how a piston will pump almost regardless of the fit... But an
engine that loses too much of it's work to friction or blowby isn't
worth building, and represents an *ENORMOUS* waste of resources and
effort; IMHO.
Look at the crap that is coming out of India & China today. They're
built on plans >100 years old that are out there that *ANYONE* is free
to open up and produce. Some of those plans rose to a *very* high level
of sophistication. However, every one of those engine also became
*obsolete* when superior products came along. The Indian products are
made to the loosest possible specs and machined as rapidly as humanly
possible... They work, but they suck.
If it's easier for a user to retrofit a 250 W Honda generator and
fuel it on moonshine than to build a junkyard steam engine and haul half
a ton of wood a day to his boiler, which one do you think he'll do?
I dunno, perhaps I'm missing the spirit of the group. In fact I'm
confusing myself more and more each time I post. My goals for *any*
product are best quality at lowest TCO -- it's a difficult goal to
achieve. I flinch every time I hear a proposal to sacrifice quality
*BEFORE* the effect on TCO is evaluated.
@Mike,
Speed and power are proportional, for electrical generation, the
speed of the prime has to be as stable as possible. Direct coupling the
engine to the gen is best as long as the engine can produce the rated
power at the necessary speed. If not then *any* engine that can
maintain some fixed speed can be coupled to a generator with a belt and
wheels of appropriate ratio. While belts work and are easier to cobble,
they are *always* an inferior solution.
I was thinking of the sub-0 sets that are accurate to a few hundred thousandths.
In general, tolerances below .0001 put more demands on your thermostat than on your measuring equipment. Steel's thermal expansion is on the order of 10^-5, so a 10* C change in temperature can move you a hundred-thousandth per inch of material.
> Again, any machinist worth his salt will have a set... IMHO…
No argument there, but the cost justification is different when you can't write them off as a business expense and won't be working them to generate revenue.
> Biggest tolerance issue I ever had was when a customer bought a shiny new CMM and started challenging parts.
Oh God..
> Lesson: Yeah, it's possible to be "too demanding"... Had a part that was a thin-walled Aluminum tube with a diameter and roundness spec'd +/-0.001 -- The end got shoved into a hole then welded! The hole was +/- 1/16", the tolerance after welding wasn't even defined!!! The assemply was held in a rubber lined clamp. Remember idiots abound wherever one chooses to look ;^)
I feel your pain. ;-)
> Taking the time to lap even a few parts, usually convinces a mechanic that instruments provide a *HUGE* ROI on his time.
True for a production shop, and especially true when you have to service a production run's worth of product later. You do *not* want to do all that work again when it's time to replace a valve or something. For a single device I built for myself and will service myself, especially if I don't have to justify my salary for the time spent, it's not so bad.
> We're talking about reciprocating masses, flywheels, bearings, and close tolerances. Trying to undertake such a project without the proper tools, is simply foolish. We're talking about building an engine that people will rely upon, not "Hey dudes, look what I did."
Benchmarking exercise: make a quick list of the tools and equipment you consider minimally necessary to do the job, then go to Grizzly or your favorite supplier and price it out. That will be the capital investment barrier to entry that you feel is appropriate to the design.
Also, let's not assume that equipment equals respect. I'll put "hey dudes, look what I did" against "whatever.. I get paid the same either way" any day.
Case in point: I have a new car whose 'check engine' light kept coming on. The dealer replaced half a dozen things according to the fault codes. Finally, the light came back on before I could even get it out of the garage, and the mechanic decided it was personal. Turns out the cable harness was just slightly too short, so all the sensor connections were under tension at the point where they met the computer module. A few cycles of heating and cooling, or a few days worth of vibration were enough to produce intermittents. After rewiring nine sensor connections, they still found problems, so they traced every line in the harness. Eventually they found a line in the fuse box that was also just a millimeter or so too short. They ended up routing that one all the way to the other side of the box. At the peak of the effort, there were four mechanics tracing cables, two on the phone to the manufacturer, and one on the phone to the plant that produced the harness.
It's possible to do a professional job with limited equipment. It's possible to do a professional job *much faster* with really good equipment. It's possible to do a crap job no matter what equipment you have.
> +0.002/-0.0 is OK for a mounting base, but not for a bearing race, not for a valve clearance, not for the tilt on a bore, and even for some bolting faces.
+2/-0 *and* lapping. By itself, you're right that such a tolerance is crap. But with $25 worth of abrasives and some time, I can get matching surfaces that rival what you'd get from an experienced operator using a $25,000 machine. Yes, hand lapping is all but worthless in a production shop where a certain amount of time has to equal a certain amount of money, but it isn't so bad for one-off work.
On the flipside, a production shop can invest more time and material dialing in a process than I'd spend doing an entire one-off build the slow way. You'll make it up by getting the next fifty units faster than I could make a second one, and you'll see better interchangeability between any two parts pulled at random from the bins. Neither of those is particularly valuable to me if I only want one unit, though.
Basic production economics: the first one costs $100,000. The next hundred thousand cost $0.43 each. The question is, "do I want a hundred thousand units?"
Ken, thank you for the information (BTW - in reference to your credentials, allow me to say, "wow).
I admit that I've had some concerns about keeping the steam up to temperature, but didn't have a coherent process framework like the one you laid out.
I happen to be interested in the lower power device, so let me toss out a few thoughts and questions related to that steam cycle:
- I favor a low pressure design for safety, and because low pressure is probably easier to design for (the more energy there is in a system, the more care you have to put into keeping it where you want it). What range of pressures would you consider safe for amateurs?
- I lean toward superheated steam. From what I can tell, trying to keep steam in the cylinder just at the point of saturation is more hassle than it's worth. I understand that letting steam leave the cylinder dry allows energy to escape as waste, but I'd rather eat that loss than deal with the pressure losses associated with condensation in the cylinder. What range of temperatures do you consider reasonable for the supply steam, and (since I'd like to minimize the loss as much as is reasonable) what temperature margin above saturation do you think is achievable for the exhaust steam?
- Low pressure pretty much implies single expansion. As I understand it, expanding to well below atmospheric pressure (3-5 psi absolute) is a good idea.. you convert much more of the energy in the steam into work (piston motion). Is that reasonable, or am I talking banana fritters?
- As I understand it, double-acting cylinders solve enough problems to be worth the additional complexity. They keep the forces moving the piston inside the cylinder, rather than making the piston push the flywheel half the time and the flywheel push the piston the other half. Steam expanding on one side drives the exhaust phase on the other side, and steam going through recompression cushions the piston as it prepares to change direction. Again, am I talking sense, or in toes-in-the-nose territory?
- Expanding to sub-atmospheric pressure implies a condenser. I should think something like a lab aspirator would be good enough, combining the venturi effect with condensation. I see that happening with reserve water, but do you think an injector would be worth the effort?
- At the boiler side, this is admittedly a bit fancy, but a downdraft gasifier isn't terribly hard to make. All it wants is a good shake every once in a while to keep voids from forming in the combustion layer, and it reduces solid fuel to a flammable gas. It provides a natural path for gradually heating the feed water, and being able to burn a clean gas at the final heating stage would probably make the boiler itself simpler. Are you aware of other designs using the same idea, and what's wrong with them that I haven't considered?
- Finally, this may be a bit to implementation-specific, but I happen to like Corliss valves. They strike me as being easy to design and build, easy to adjust, and simple enough to be robust. Is there another valve system you like better, and if so, why?
Whew.. lot of good information there. I've read through it about five times now. That's what happens when you ask questions of someone who knows more than you: you learn things.
Cherry-picking bits and pieces: it seems clear that poppet valves win, safety is best served by keeping the total energy within reasonable bounds, not just the pressure, and that the DA/SA question will be an interesting discussion for the future.
Not to get too deep into boiler design before it's time, but am I correct in thinking that water pipe would make it easier to keep the total (potentially dangerous) energy low? It certainly seems to have advantages WRT the size of the pipes, and the fast circulation of the LaMonts design sounded attractive.
Given the desirability of fast water flow through both the feed system and the condenser, as well as pressure for lubrication and pumping water from the condenser back into the feed system, I think it might be a good warm-up exercise to design a few fractional-horsepower engines to do those tasks. Even if it ends up being easier to pull all that power from the main shaft in the final design, I know I could use practice stumbling through the design process.
Next question, since this seems to be one of the foundation questions when defining the Rankine cycle: is there some generally preferred ratio of stroke length to piston diameter? The stroke is what converts heat energy to work energy, so the general rule seems to be "more is better." 1:1 offers the minimum surface are for heat loss through radation, 2:1 offers the maximum volume relative to surface area, and I'm sure we could find arguments in favor of just about any other number if we looked hard enough.
RPM, stroke length, and area of the piston head are all related. Assuming 200 psi and 1500 rpm, you can make a 15 HP engine with roughly a 3" bore and a 3" stroke, or with a 2" bore and a 6" stroke. Given the same amount of clearance in both cases, the clearance would be a smaller fraction of the 6" stroke.
I can't imagine umpty-odd generations of steam geeks not A) settling on a ratio that works best, or B) arguing about nonstop.
> The cylinder will be longer, machining it will become more difficult.
I shouldn't think there would be much difference for ratios below about 5:1. Beyond that, I lean toward using schedule 40 or 80 pipe since it's already rated for pressure and tends to have good dimensional uniformity over moderate lengths. That reduces the problem to 'cut to length' and maybe some honing to make sure the inside surface is smooth.
Power HP | Press PSI | Len ft | Area in^2 | N RPM | K Cyl | Const lbf * ft * mn-1 | T hi F | T lo F | P NH3 Hi | P NH3 lo | delta P | Cutoff % | Stroke in | Bore in | Displace in^3 | Displace cc |
=PRODUCT(B2:F2)/G2 | =M2*N2 | =O2/12 | =PI() * ((P2)/2)^2 | #N/A | #N/A | =33000 | #N/A | #N/A | #N/A | =630.22 | =286.57 | =K2-L2 | #N/A | #N/A | #N/A | =O2*D2*F2 | =Q2*2.54^3 |
Hmm.. check my math here:
IHP = plan/33000
p: pressure (psi)
l: stroke length (feet)
a: area of the piston (square inches)
n: number of strokes per minute
Now, I admit that I rounded the figures last time.. the actual bore for a 1:1 ratio is 2.932".
2.932 / 12 = .244
l = .244
2.932 / 2 = 1.466 (radius)
1.465^2 = 2.149 (r^2)
2.149 * 3.14159 = 6.751 (pi r^2)
a = 6.751
plugging those in with p=200 and n=1500:
IHP = 200 * .244 * 6.751 * 1500 / 33000
IHP = 14.975
For the 3:1 ratio the bore should be 2.033".
2.033 * 3 = 6.099
6.099 / 12 = .508
l = .508
2.033 / 2 = 1.017 (radius)
1.017^2 = 1.034 (r^2)
1.034 * 3.14159 = 3.248 (pi r^2)
a = 3.248
IHP = 200 * .508 * 3.248 * 1500 / 33000
IHP = 14.999
More generally, if we replace IHP with 15 in the base equation:
15 = 200 * la * 1500 / 33000
la = 15 * 33000 / 200 * 1500
la = 1.65
Any combination of stroke length (in feet) and piston area (in square inches) that multiplies to 1.65 should work.
Solar, I noticed that your spreadsheet multiplies the change in pressure by the cutoff percentage to calculate p. That may be where we're getting different results. Either that, or I'm missing something fundamental.
Looks like I oversimplified: the full name for 'p' in my version would be 'mean effective pressure'.. Ps * (1 + ln N) / N, where Ps is the supply pressure and N is the expansion ratio (ignoring all the complications of clearance and back-pressure).
For 50% cutoff, the mean pressure would be about 85% of delta-P. Flipping that over, to get 200psi mean pressure, you'd want about 118% of that, or a delta-P of about 236psi.
BTW - I made a copy of your spreadsheet and tried the (2.932", 2.932"), (6.099", 2.033") figures.. they match pretty well at around 8.85 HP. That extra .07" from rounding things up to (3", 3") really makes a difference.
Thing is, multiplying delta-P by the cutoff percentage gives you the final pressure but not the mean pressure.
Try this in the B2 cell:
=M2*(1+LN(1/N2))/(1/N2)
Note to self: coffee first, 'Send' button second. Works *much* better that way.
Looks like we just got caught on a difference in MEP calculations, made worse by a big-ass rounding error.
I finished a spreadsheet up last night, seems to be working OK. The
efficiency and power numbers are high for a number of reasons besides
just not accounting for cylinder heat losses and friction. The
approach doesn't really simulate the polytropic nature of expansion
and this will lead to overly optimistic MEP. The spreadsheet doesn't
figure in polytropic compression of the steam remnant mass. It also
doesn't take into account the mixing of high entropy admission and low
entropy exhaust steam in the clearance volume. For uniflow and other
high compression engines, a more elaborate sheet is called for.
I don't see a way to post a file on Google, the Excel spreadsheet
won't work if uploaded into Googledocs due to the steam function add-
ins. I posted a copy to the Steam Automobile Club of America website,
should be downloadable from there:
http://steamautomobile.com/phorum5214/read.php?2,18956
The original version is a tiny bit too big to meet the SACA upload
criteria, so tried a different format. I hope this one has all the
add-ins included. Let me know if there are any difficulties and we
can arrange to e-mail directly.
Also feel free to comment on content, methods of calculation, desired
features and so on.
Regards,
Ken
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250929205669?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
He used a 2 cylinder air compressor (you can get them for a couple of
hundred bucks at Harbor Freight) and fitted new cylinder heads and a
cam.
Not a super high performance unit but more than capable of operating
from a solar collector and capable of driving a modest gen set.
Regards,
ken
The steam effort over at Open Source Ecology got me started thinking
about this sort of thing. At OSE, they have been using quite a few
hydraulically-powered tools, and that biased me towards investigating
a direct steam-piston-to-hydraulic-piston design. I just put up a page
here: http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Steam_Engine_Design/Free_Piston_Steam_Hydraulic
.
I made a simulation model of this engine using the electronics design
tool SPICE.
Whether or not the free piston design is of interest to this group,
you may find the SPICE simulation approach helpful.
Cheers,
Chuck
Wally Woods Rules for Commerical Artists:
1 Never draw what you can copy
2. Never copy what you can trace
3. Never trace what you can cut out and paste down
Regards,
Ken
2.
Regards,
Ken
On Nov 21, 9:18 am, Max Kennedy <mekennedy1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hydraulic pistions are designed for high pressures and good seals, would
> they be a candidate for modification into steam pistons? Different seals
> would obviously be needed.
>
> Max
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 7:01 AM, Chuck <cfh...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Hi folks,
>
> > The steam effort over at Open Source Ecology got me started thinking
> > about this sort of thing. At OSE, they have been using quite a few
> > hydraulically-powered tools, and that biased me towards investigating
> > a direct steam-piston-to-hydraulic-piston design. I just put up a page
> > here:
> >http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Steam_Engine_Design/Free_Piston_Ste...
> > .
>
> > I made a simulation model of this engine using the electronics design
> > tool SPICE.
>
> > Whether or not the free piston design is of interest to this group,
> > you may find the SPICE simulation approach helpful.
>
> > Cheers,
> > Chuck
>
> --
> It can be done- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Would a generic air compressor lower handle:
'pressure issues' ?
'heat issues' ?
This would be a big step forward if there are no issues? (anything -
anyone?)
This is a fairly good ballpark, you can generate some reasonable level
of power for given displacement without too horrendously bad
efficiency. Just don't expect to be challenging a diesel engine, or a
lawn mower, for conversion efficiency.
At 150 psi the engine is fairly simple. Not a lot of reason for
complexities like compound operation (though a 2 stage compressor has
compounded cylinders), but a 1 or 2 cylinder single stage compressor
would do your needs with adequate valving. At these pressures the
cutoff need not be that severe, so valve gear issues are relatively
easily managed. This pressure, by the way, puts you pretty well in
the middle of the pack for historical light steam power. Any number
of old elevators, winches, pumps, launches, machine shops and so on
were right in this area. Now, if I were to be burning gasoline...or
using scads of power like an automobile...I'd be running up a 1000 psi
and 1000 F...or higher in an effort to push thermal efficiency towards
20%; just as an illustration of what steam conditions you commit to
when trying to become competitive with IC.
Regards,
Ken
On Nov 22, 12:15 pm, jamie clarke <jamieclarke...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Wish i knew the answer, ive seen several versions of this but can't tell
> you about heating issues.
>
> Most air compressors can handle 200psi, what psi are we thinking?
>
> On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 9:08 PM, Russell Philips <russellphil...@hotmail.com
> > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
Insulating the cylinder walls, too, would be wonderful but I think
that in the "ceramic engine" craze of the 80's they never found the
right materials for that.
Speaking of cylinder walls, though...some of the nickel composite
platings like Ni-P-BN(h) look interesting.
Cheers,
Chuck
Legal requirements have no pat answer, they vary widely from state to
state. In Michigan automobiles are exempted. The USCG inspects
vessel boilers, and if not for hire and below a certain size they take
a pass. First thing to do is simply check the Yellow pages and find
the local state certified boiler inspector and have a discussion as to
what criteria he uses and what you need to do to pass; buddy of mine
with a live steam locomotive fretted up a storm then after talking
with the guy could only comment on how easy he was to work with. I'm
automatically suspicious of trying to adapt other pressure vessels for
steam use, so you're on your own with SCUBA tanks. As I stated in an
earlier post, the key to safe operation is minimum energy storage, a
pound of hot pressurized water being more deadly than an ounce of hot
pressurized steam. Hartley O Baker built automotive boilers with a
large diameter pipe bent into a helical coil which surrounded the
boiler, made a decent storage drum and since the needed wall thickness
goes up with diameter, was cheaper and lighter than a drum; just a
thought.
Regards,
Ken
gosh that just sounds bad... Russell you're such a valve hole -ha!
On Nov 23, 3:56 pm, Ken Helmick <kena...@aol.com> wrote:
> Hi Jamie,
>
> The video isn't an instantaneous thing...first I have to cross the state and do so when Tom is actually doing some bending...then I'd need to figure out how the hell to get a YouTube account....then I'd need to successfully obtain an account and upload video without becoming so frustrated that I end up in a tower with a rifle. I'm a simple kinda guy with limited skill sets.... like hunting, fly fishing, tool and die making and vector analysis in multiple planes; social media tends to exceed my tolerance thresholds....
>
> Yeah, the Goldilocks analogy is right. Notice that increasing the circulation ratio decreases the likelihood of burnout at a given firing rate but increases the total stored energy in the system, TANSTAAFL, There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch. Anyhow, we're not talking about the level of performance of even a 100 year old steam car; stationary outfits can give up some compactness and performance in exchange for simplicity and reliability. Part of the reason I have been typing these small essays is because this is the sort of background that was fairly common a century ago, and much less so today; no need to invent mistakes that great grandpa would have avoided on sheer instinct.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ken
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jamie Clarke <jamieclarke...@gmail.com>
> To: open-source-steam <open-sou...@googlegroups.com>
> Sent: Wed, Nov 23, 2011 3:25 pm
> Subject: Re: Steam Engine Design: General Use
>
> Ok so it's a goldy locks kind of thing.
>
> Not too fast, not too slow with the flow and Too much steam is safer then too much hot water.
>
> Do wish I was a better listener now, it's got to be good to ask though, where else would I get an answer like that.
>
> Got to see this pipe bender! What's your YouTube account?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 5:59 PM, jamie clarke <jamieclarke...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Cheers ken, excuse my ignorance. Learning on the job
>
> :)
>
> To keep things simple:
>
> Are the most dangerous pipes the biggest ones?
>
> http://www.virtualsteamcarmuseum.org/images/vscmimages/Stewart,%20H%2...
>
> Regards,
>
> Ken
For those getting used to the jargon, 'pot metal' is a loosely-defined family of alloys made mostly of zinc with some aluminum and other metals thrown in. It's popular for castings because it melts around 750* F, as opposed to 1200* F for aluminum and 2100* F for cast iron. It takes less equipment and skill to cast pot metal simply because there's less energy in the molten metal.
Better yet, the stuff is *everywhere*. A good portion of the castings you'll find in any scrapyard will be pot metal, so it's an easily scavenged and recyled material.
Of course those benefits are worthless if the material can't do the job.
http://www.buildyouridea.com/foundry/lost_foam_howto/lost_foam_howto.html
It's a variant of lost wax casting, using styrofoam rather than wax. You make the shape you want out of foam, give it a thin coat of plaster to get a good surface, bury it in sand, then pour the molten metal right into the plastic. The heat of the metal vaporizes the foam and the metal flows into the void left behind.
It can't begin to compete with pattern casting at the industrial scale, but it offers some advantages for short runs and one-off work. You don't have to plan a pattern in a way that allows you to lift the pieces out of the sand, and you don't have to ram the actual mold so you can lift out the pattern but still assemble the mold for casting. Both of those are high skills and I admire the people who do them well, but there is a bit of a learning curve.
I've never heard of anyone using pot metal in a steam engine. Pot
metals are generally considered 'junk' as far as any engineering
standards are concerned, there is no way to discern strength,
resiliency, cyclical fatigue or much of anything else...every pot
varies immensely from another. By contrast, if you have something
cast out of AlMag or Tenzalloy, you know what you're getting. Also,
hard to envision pot metal in 1000 F steam car cylinder heads :-).
Then there is the entire issue of corrosion, they make sacrificial
anodes out of zinc, bolting it up to another metal is just asking for
the zinc to corrode away. I have seen tough zincs, but generally they
are on the expensive side and used in precision die casting because
they go superplastic when the melt is injected under high pressure.
For those unsure about why you'd want to cast parts, or what patterns
are, I slipped some photos of castings and patterns of my engine
project at:
https://sites.google.com/site/opensourcesteam/ken-s-engine-patterns-and-castings
I hate to disagree with you about lost foam, but General Motors uses
lost foam to cast some cylinder heads in mass production that just
can't be made otherwise..so it is a process to take seriously in mass
production. Rather than make fuel injector rails from all kinds of
pieces of tubing and connectors, then soldering all that stuff
together and then assembling that to the head; it is cast in one
piece integral to the cylinder head itself using lost foam. Nice
thing is that you can cast the impossible, like negative draft
angles. The foam patterns are made in injection molds, and the
various parts are glued together to make parts with features that
can't come from any open and shut casting process. Then coat with
refractory and sand cast.
As you can see from the photos in the link above, I've had some
experience with patterns and casting (also fabricating injection
molds, which skills transfer nicely). The advantage is that you can
make very complex shapes and cast them with a reasonable degree of
faithfulness depending on various foundry limitations. It's very hard
to cut foam to any close design...unless you pay more and get a higher
density foam with a fine grain structure. We have some guys at work
who do that, use machine tools to cut foam accurately for protoype
lost foam castings. That foam is nothing like the stuff your new tv
is packed in. The results are very impressive. Only downside is that
if you want to make 2, 3, 4 or more you have to make a new foam
pattern each time. With conventional pattern work the patterns are
more time consuming but given careful handling hundreds or thousands
can be built...more if you go to metal. As they say, you pays your
money and you takes yer chances!
Regards,
Ken
About what I figured. Double check me on this though: what do you guys (GM) use for, say, the body of a carburetor? I'm sure it's spec'd to a fare-thee-well, but I don't know the exact metal.
> Also, hard to envision pot metal in 1000 F steam car cylinder heads :-).
That was my big question. Steam engines get HOT.
> https://sites.google.com/site/opensourcesteam/ken-s-engine-patterns-and-castings
Very nice. Do you do your own ramming and pouring?
> I hate to disagree with you about lost foam, but General Motors uses
> lost foam to cast some cylinder heads in mass production that just
> can't be made otherwise..so it is a process to take seriously in mass
> production.
I didn't know that. I knew that some manufacturers had done research into reprap-style "extrude a zillion layers of foam then see if it's close enough to tolerances to be useful" stuff, but didn't know it had gotten mature enough for production. Cool.
> Nice thing is that you can cast the impossible, like negative draft
> angles.
Pockets, openings between surfaces, voids that would take complicated cores. Obviously I'm a fan.
> As you can see from the photos in the link above, I've had some
> experience with patterns and casting (also fabricating injection
> molds, which skills transfer nicely).
Again I say: 'wow'. Injection molds are just about the bitchiest branch of machining I've ever heard of.. thermal expansion issues, seating and matching issues, surface finish issues, etc, etc. Never done it myself, probably wouldn't last a day at it if I tried, and the two men I knew who could talk casually about it were both master machinists.
> With conventional pattern work the patterns are
> more time consuming but given careful handling hundreds or thousands
> can be built...more if you go to metal. As they say, you pays your
> money and you takes yer chances!
I grew up in Davenport.. John Deere, Alcoa, and Litton territory (not to mention the Rock Island Arsenal). Our next-door neighbor was a pattern maker, so I grew up with a deep respect for guys who make a living whittling to close tolerances. ;-)
I think it's a drawing of the cylinder head itself. The cylinder would sit below the drawing, held in place by the bolts (vertical black bars at either end).
A question of my own: It looks like the pink area is the supply steam and the red area is the exhaust port. Figure 1.5 seems to show a direct connection between the two, so I'm probably reading that part wrong. What are the intake and exhaust paths?