The reluctance in doing some of the advice given by Bruce derives from the lack of purpose. He said to bin guiding the camera. I am happy to do it but why? As it is the star I use for guiding has at 1 sec a SNR of 14-16. Is that not enough to guide? Will binning the camera show me the target star through the clouds? No way, so to me Advice 1 seems a bit useless to my problem.
Advice 2:
You should start doing multi-star guiding and even more importantly, stop trying to choose a single guide star by clicking on it. Use the auto-select mechanism in PHD2 which will let you take advantage of multi-star guiding. That will be even more effective if you do step 1. -This can be useful if I am willing to increase the exposure times, which I am not, not for such a dim target and -again- it is not why I started the topic. I had a very specific problem, the drift during the cloud cover, I do not think doing advice 2 will help me in my problem.- I would rate this a rather useless advice.
Advice 3:
Run the Guiding Assistant and accept its recommendations for Min-Move values. Yours are ridiculously small and result in guide corrections for nearly every guide camera exposure. This, coupled with using only 1-second exposures, means you are chasing the seeing.- another advice which will not prevent the drift during the cloud cover. And yes, I am chasing the seeing for the reasons I have already discussed. Unfortunately, I regard this advice again useless-definitely not helping my cloud problem, but I am happy to be proven wrong.
Advice 4:
Start using the Calibration Assistant and see if you can improve on the fairly poor results I see in the logs. Yes, it matters. Now, this advice is something else. What is fairly poor result? I am asking now: what is a poor result? What RMSE is too much on 10mph wind? How about 7 mph wind? 80% humidity, 90% humidity? What is a poor result? How can someone say I have a poor result if they didn't see the FWHM in the main frame? How can someone say I have a poor result if they didn't see the atmospheric conditions, winds and so on? This is just sad coming from an expert. Even my kid does a more thorough analysis of the results than that. I am being kind grading this advice as useless, again not helping with my problem.
Advice 5: Disable the star mass detection feature, it isn't suitable for your situation. Good advice. I will either do that or at least decrease the star tolerance by less, lets say 20% or so( will see how it behaves)
Advice 6: Restore the Max-duration settings for both RA and Dec to their default values. In fact, restore all the guider settings to their default values. If you upgrade to the 2.6.13dev5 release and use the new-profile-wizard to create a new configuration profile, all of these things will be sorted out.- maybe, I need to check it out first- but not helping my problem
7. The main advice regarding Min-HFD seems to be good advice, will do that too
Now that's a problem because I got 7 advices and only 2 are pertinent to my problem and that makes me lose confidence in the advice. For example, If you come in my clinic, yes?, with back pain and I am speaking about your blood pressure and your eye glasses, you would lose confidence, trust me. Anyway if you see a problem in my guiding graph which corrected will result in an improvement in FWHM in the main frame, I am happy to make adjustment. The 1,2,3,4 and 6 will not have that outcome, possibly 3 and 6 have counter effect.
Bruce said to use a software that can recover from drift. Well, that is just not going to happen automatically. When I set the scope on the target, I go to a bright star in the vicinity then I move the scope where I know the target is to have that bright star for guiding. I can practice during a full moon period with setting up Phd2 automatically from SharpCap- but I don't have too much experience with that.
The target is SDSS J2238+1319. Has about 22 arcsecs. I have a 12 inch SW scope with f/4.9 reduced to f/4.4 by a field flattener coupled with a 2.4 mcm pixel size camera( about 0.37 arcsec/pixel)
I know about Metaguide, I did not try it, maybe I should, but I just don't have the time to do it. Look, I live in the UK, getting 15 hours of fairly good sky with no Moon in a month is an exception. It takes me 20 minutes to focus after I started PHD2 before starting the session. I wish I had more time to try more of the settings, but for now I just need to do what I know it works. If you guys come with convincing evidence that your advice works better for FWHM I am happy to copy paste the settings you propose, but you expert opinion is not good enough. I am sure you saw so many graphs and know all of this, but I am not sure if you coupled the graphs with the main frame outcomes.
I have outlined the shape of the ring. It is still a work in progress, but my kids recognised the features. Put a meter in between you and the display sort of to reduce the noise impact, and looked at the native image I posted initially not at the rainbow one :)
Best regards.