Hi Mark. I think maybe I’m missing some context here – are you relatively new to guiding at long focal lengths? The reason I ask is because of the First Law of Local Focal Length imaging: there are no guide stars. J I don’t see any mention in your messages of a rotator. Are you doing that by hand or not doing it at all? If the latter, you can expect to be out of luck more than ½ the time. I image at 2500 mm focal length with the same OAG you have, and I have to rotate the guider assembly more than ½ the time unless I’m working in star-rich areas near the galactic plane. I don’t even bother to look with exposures less than 5 seconds, and I’ve sometimes had to go to 10 seconds. The little screw-on focal reducer you have on the Lodestar will only expand your FOV if the light cone from the pick-off prism is larger than the Lodestar chip – I don’t know if it is. Otherwise, it will only boost the apparent brightness of a guide star if you can find one, which is still a good thing. Are you using a planetarium program to map this out ahead of time? I use the TheSky6, which works well. You construct field-of-view indicators for both the main chip and the guider, being careful to get the offset between the two chips right. Then you can center your target on the main chip FOV and look in the annular guide region to see where a suitable star will be. As I said, I haven’t failed at being able to find one so far, but I almost always have to rotate the guider to pick up a usable star.
I think you may have somewhat unreasonable expectations for unattended operation with this set-up. The imagers I know who do this successfully all have software-controlled rotators and use dedicated automation software. With the latter, guide stars are chosen from a catalog, the instrument package is rotated to the correct position, and the guiding software is told where to lock. I’m not familiar with SGPro but I wonder if it can do all this. In any case, I think you’ll need to invest some significant hands-on time getting this sorted out before you can hope to automate it. All of that said, if PHD2 is refusing to accept a usable star, that’s a different matter and needs to be resolved by us…
Good luck.
Bruce W.
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You have a nice set-up and it looks like you’ve made some good upgrades. FWIW, I followed a somewhat similar path using a 10-inch Meade LX200GPS for about 7 years. So I certainly didn’t want to discourage you – just trying to help you avoid some frustration. J You actually *do* have a rotator, albeit the “manual” kind – just like me. The OAG-5 has rotatable interfaces on both sides, so you can rotate the camera assembly by just loosening the thumbscrews. As I said, I have to do that most of the time to find guide stars. But I can’t imagine trying to do this without a planetarium program that would give me the correct answer ahead of time. I’ve attached two screenshots from TheSky6 which show what I did on my last target, NGC 772. The first shows my fields of view with the camera in its “zero-angle” position. As you can see, there were no suitable guide stars at that point – TheSky6 tells me the magnitudes of the stars when I click on them, so I knew they weren’t bright enough. In fact, there are only 3-4 stars in that outer annular ring that are going to work well as guide stars – hence my earlier comments about guide stars being scarce. So I simply rotated the field of view indicator in the software (not the actual hardware) until I was positioned on some better guide stars – that’s the second screenshot. At that point, I could compute the difference between the two position angles and know that I would need to rotate the camera assembly by about 27 degrees (146-119). I did this manually using a little handwritten angle scale that I have fastened on the OAG assembly – it’s surprising how little accuracy is required. I did the rotation once, tightened everything up and bingo, there were my guide stars. Since I have a German equatorial mount, I often have to do this again when I do a meridian flip. But with your fork mount, you won’t have that problem. I’d recommend your doing some experimenting along these lines if you continue to have problems finding suitable guide stars. The good news is that you can work with it for awhile without having to buy more expensive gear.
Have fun.
Bruce
From: mark
matzner [mailto:mdma...@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2014
9:30 AM
To:
open-phd...@googlegroups.com
Cc: mdma...@gmail.com;
bw_m...@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Disconnect
Non-responsive Camera after (seconds)
Hi Bruce,
I don’t know about TheSkyX. I have the “serious astronomer” version of TheSky6, which was the middle of three options when I got it. I also don’t know if there are other planetarium apps that can do the same thing. If you rotate the guide camera by a significant amount, you will need to recalibrate. I have “cheated” and re-used a calibration when the rotation was less than 20 degrees or so. But since the calibration doesn’t take very long, I don’t stretch things beyond that.
Good luck.
Bruce
From: mark
matzner [mailto:mdma...@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014
12:26 PM
To:
open-phd...@googlegroups.com
Cc: mdma...@gmail.com; bw_m...@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Disconnect
Non-responsive Camera after (seconds)
Good Stuff Bruce,