Snowy image with some hot pixels
umasscrew39
bw_msgboard
Well, I think you’ll have to systematically work through all the possible problem sources, one at a time – and there are a lot of them I’ll just list some things I would do off the top of my head (other than just packing it in and going inside to drink a beer). I’m going to assume that the cameras are probably working and you aren’t getting any timeout type problems and therefore the USB data paths are also probably working.
- Make sure that the problem isn’t in the PHD2 rendering of the image (dumb stuff but still needs to be checked)
- The gamma slider isn’t pushed too far to the left
- You’re using reasonable exposure times (e.g. 2 sec) with the scope pointing at a real night sky with stars in it – not an artificial light source
- The gain settings, if available, are where they normally are
- At this point, I would also capture a typical image using the File/Save menu option – might be needed later
- Temporarily discontinue using any dark library or bad-pix map – just get the raw data
- Make sure the optical path of the C-11 is clear and delivering in-focus images to the cameras
- Probably easiest to check by taking a short exposure with the main camera – it must be in sharp focus
- Check to see that the guide camera hasn’t moved around or gotten loose in the OAG and thus gone out of focus
- Check to see that the OAG isn’t fouled up – tor example the mirror and its mounting stalk haven’t moved or rotated
- With the gamma slider in mid-range, carefully move a dim light in the C-11 light path while PHD2 is looping – see if you can at least see some brightness variations from the guide cam
- At this point, I would probably move to looking at power
- Take the guide camera out of the OAG and plug it in directly to your computer USB port – one you know works, one that is being powered by AC, a short USB cable with no hubs or intermediate boxes
- Do this test on a different USB port than whatever the hub is plugged into
- Look in the Windows device manager window to make sure the guide cam is recognized and apparently working from a Windows point of view
- This direct connection should also eliminate the possibility of electrical interference from other gear that’s mounted on the scope
When I’m working through a long list like this, I try to work slowly and methodically rather than rushing to find the problem. If I change something and it has no effect, I immediately put it back. Otherwise I can end up chasing my tail by creating secondary problems while I’m trying to find the primary one. I find it easy to get a bit frenzied about this so I also force myself to take short breaks and “step away from the scope, sir” so I can just think about what is going on. You can also use an imaging app to examine the guide frame you saved to see what its brightness properties are – without scaling.
Hope you can find it – let us know when you do.
Bruce W.
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Geof Lewis
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 3:37 am
To: open-phd...@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [open-phd-guiding] Snowy image with some hot pixels
Bruce Donzanti
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bw_msgboard
Hi Bruce D. Don’t overlook the good advice Geof Lewis provided – what you’re seeing is consistent with the LodeStar not being provided with sufficient power. It can get enough power from the USB cable to initialize but not enough power to get an image – in other words, a problem delivering adequate power to the guide cam.
Bruce W.
From: open-phd...@googlegroups.com [mailto:open-phd...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Donzanti
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2021 4:39
PM
To: open-phd...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [open-phd-guiding]
Snowy image with some hot pixels
Thanks for the suggestions. I tried these steps on both scopes and with 2 imaging cameras and 2 guide cameras with the same results with PHD2. The 80mm is now doing the same thing. Checked cables, power source, etc. Fresh out of ideas.
Basically, it seems PHD2 is not seeing anything- just the snowy/grainy screen which flickers between intensity despite setting up fine through the wizard. I've never experienced this before. The guiding cameras respond to light when removed from the guide holders.
I guess I will try my last scope on the front yard with my outdoor power pack and see if I get the same result which would indicate I am doing something wrong. If it works, I guess it has something to do with my cables, 12VDC regulator box, or Linx power panel that I am missing.
On Wed, Mar 3, 2021 at 10:37 PM bw_msgboard <bw_m...@earthlink.net> wrote:
Well, I think you’ll have to systematically work through all the possible problem sources, one at a time – and there are a lot of them I’ll just list some things I would do off the top of my head (other than just packing it in and going inside to drink a beer). I’m going to assume that the cameras are probably working and you aren’t getting any timeout type problems and therefore the USB data paths are also probably working.
1. Make sure that the problem isn’t in the PHD2 rendering of the image (dumb stuff but still needs to be checked)
a. The gamma slider isn’t pushed too far to the left
b. You’re using reasonable exposure times (e.g. 2 sec) with the scope pointing at a real night sky with stars in it – not an artificial light source
c. The gain settings, if available, are where they normally are
d. At this point, I would also capture a typical image using the File/Save menu option – might be needed later
e. Temporarily discontinue using any dark library or bad-pix map – just get the raw data
2. Make sure the optical path of the C-11 is clear and delivering in-focus images to the cameras
a. Probably easiest to check by taking a short exposure with the main camera – it must be in sharp focus
b. Check to see that the guide camera hasn’t moved around or gotten loose in the OAG and thus gone out of focus
c. Check to see that the OAG isn’t fouled up – tor example the mirror and its mounting stalk haven’t moved or rotated
d. With the gamma slider in mid-range, carefully move a dim light in the C-11 light path while PHD2 is looping – see if you can at least see some brightness variations from the guide cam
3. At this point, I would probably move to looking at power
a. Take the guide camera out of the OAG and plug it in directly to your computer USB port – one you know works, one that is being powered by AC, a short USB cable with no hubs or intermediate boxes
b. Do this test on a different USB port than whatever the hub is plugged into
c. Look in the Windows device manager window to make sure the guide cam is recognized and apparently working from a Windows point of view
d. This direct connection should also eliminate the possibility of electrical interference from other gear that’s mounted on the scope
When I’m working through a long list like this, I try to work slowly and methodically rather than rushing to find the problem. If I change something and it has no effect, I immediately put it back. Otherwise I can end up chasing my tail by creating secondary problems while I’m trying to find the primary one. I find it easy to get a bit frenzied about this so I also force myself to take short breaks and “step away from the scope, sir” so I can just think about what is going on. You can also use an imaging app to examine the guide frame you saved to see what its brightness properties are – without scaling.
Hope you can find it – let us know when you do.
Bruce W.
From: open-phd...@googlegroups.com [mailto:open-phd...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of umasscrew39
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2021 6:24 PM
To: Open PHD Guiding
Subject: [open-phd-guiding] Snowy image with some hot pixels
I have been guiding for several years on my 80mm using a ZWO ASI290mm Mini in a ZWO OAG with no issues. For my C11" EdgeHD, I was using an UltraStar on a Sx integrated filter wheel/OAG (146mm backfocus) and it has worked ok up until recently. I am now only getting a grainy/snowy view on the PHD2 viewer. I tried a new UltraStar camera and changed USB cables but the results were the same. I now tried a ZWO ASI174mm MINI in the ZWO OAG and still only get a snowy/grainy image. This is in a permanent setup in an observatory where house voltage runs through a 12 V regulator box (13.8 nominal V) and then up to a powered 3.0 HUB which sits on the scope. The HUB USB then runs down to the laptop. All other accessories are running fine that are attached to the HUB and I checked the voltage. The 80mm is piggybacked on the C11 so they both use the same power source and HUB. I cannot understand why nothing is working on the C11". Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Bruce
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Bruce Donzanti
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bw_msgboard
Well, you certainly know your gear better than I do. But it sounded like those cameras are all getting powered through a common (powered) USB hub…
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