Rail Inside
Janie Leverone
The track is measured from the inside rail 11.8 inches. It would be tough to run less than 400m with the curb. Without it it's possible. Tracks without curbs cannot be considered for records or even qualifying marks.
All true, but tracks that are designed to never have a curb use a different measure line that is only 7.9 inches out from the inner stripe of Lane 1, based upon the assumption that runners will run about 4 inches to a stripe than they will to a curb of at least 2 inches height. This has been the practice for generations. However, in recent years, governing bodies have begun to require--for records--cones or flags on the curves if the track does not have a curb. To me, that indicates that they don't trust turn judges and/or have changed their thinking on how close runners typically run to a stripe.
This sheet metal part makes up the inside rail of the AM14U5 drive chassis. This rail has different holes to accommodate different wheel sizes, types, and configurations as well as mounting locatio...Read More
This sheet metal part makes up the inside rail of the AM14U5 drive chassis. This rail has different holes to accommodate different wheel sizes, types, and configurations as well as mounting locations for the Toughbox Mini, Toughbox Micro, support churros, and bearings. This plate contains additional holes as compared to the AM14U4 Inside Plate to accommodate even more features and components.
The 0.21-inch holes along the top and bottom flange provide mounting locations for a belly pan, upper structures, and other mechanisms. Want a custom chassis? Cut this to whatever length is needed! Don't forget to pick up Outside Plates and End Plates to match.
For attaching other plates and components we recommend the use of 10-32 x 0.5 in. Socked Head Cap Screws and 10-32 Nylock Nuts. Longer screws may be desired for attaching larger non-plate components to the Inside Plate.
Since your original had a flat bottom end I made the stile the same way. Then I copied the geometry down and flipped it in the blue direction before joining it to my original. And for the rails I let the stiles cope the ends using Bool Tools 2.
I ran follow me with the 1/4" radius around the 3 outer edges with no problem. When trying to use ctrl+Push/Pull, run the geometry off of the end for the inner radius and dado for the panel, then intersect faces I get an awful mess when cleaning up the geometry.
I'm messing around with rails 2.3 templates and want to be able to use the app name as a variable inside my template, so when I use...
rails appname -m path/to/template.rb
...I want to be able to access appname inside template.rb. Anyone know how to do this?
Thanks
I suspect that RAILS_ROOT won't have been created at the point that you need the app name. Looking at ruby\lib\ruby\gems\1.8\gems\rails-2.2.2\bin\rails, however, almost the first thing that happens is this:
As of Rails 4 (maybe earlier versions?), use Rails.application.class to get the application name. For example, if your app is named Fizzbuzz, here are a few ways you might access it: (Prior to Rails 7)
I believe the preferred way now is to call Rails.root and no longer RAILS_ROOT. Apparently someone on planet rails has an aversion to uppercase or some similar important reason. As of 2.3.5 they both appear to work.
So... I am beginning to upgrade my WSOR SD40-2's from Sunset Models/3rd Rail to make them look, sound and perform more like the prototypes running today. To do so, I had to separate the body shell from the chassis. While I am not sure this morning how many screws I removed, I will go back and count and provide more detailed photos and descriptions. I'm guessing it was 22-24. There weren't really any tricky screws, however, since these models have ditchlights at both ends there were some wiring plugs that needed to be unplugged as well as routed out of a small hole in the rear of the chassis. So being careful, taking your time and having enough space is the name of the game. I also drew a diagram of the chassis and marked the screws holes and placed all of the screws as I removed them on that diagram using double sided tape and set aside.
I will post a separate discussion around the upgrades I make to the locomotives for those that want to track the progress, but this post we can use to discuss the inner workings of the locomotive. My early impressions are that Scott and team did an amazing job inside the locomotive, some of the noteworthy items
These have certainly come a LONG way since I took apart my FL9 of 2014. That was a mass of spaghetti with no color-coded wires. Needless to say, it took "All of Scott's forces and all of his men to put my FL9 back together again!"
This obviously can be adjusted to simulate that coast/inertia capability in a number of ways through the decoder, I use these acceleration and deceleration values adjusted for operation with my Protothrottle as noted below and then set values for the brake functions and assign those functions to a function key (F6 in my case) which gets assigned on the Protothrottle to apply the brake as I move the brake lever. This same setup works great on standard throttles as well, but instead of moving the brake lever it's a push of the function button (F6). I use TCS EWT-50 Wifi throttles.
The LokProgrammer is used to adjust these settings and any others for that matter, "Brake Settings" allows the user to adjust the brake functions and "Driving characteristics" is where you adjust the acceleration / deceleration times.
One of my engines ran unevenly at slow speeds so I opened "Motor settings" under "Change decoder settings" and adjusted the load control for regulation reference and regulation parameters "K" and "I" to smooth out low speed operation. This is discussed in the LokSound 5 Instruction Manual.
I loaded a different EMD 16-645E3 sound file into all of my SD40-2's and remapped the number boards, front ditch lights and cab light to different function keys. There is also a template pack for 14 user selectable air horns and 2 bells to further customize sounds.
At least here in Germany such additional rails are used in sensitive areas, like stations, bridges etc., to prevent extensive damage in case of a derailment. If a car were to derail away from the platform (in your case), the third rail would still hold the car and would prevent it from drifting too far apart (and probably overturning etc.).
This is called a Guard rail. These are placed in areas with restricted clearance to prevent excessive damage in case of derailment. In this case, it prevents a derailed train from hitting the platform where passengers are standing and/or other passenger trains.
It's also used by a switch to allow passenger trains to reach a platform, while freight trains just hiball through without using the switch, giving them more clearance. Here's an example, from the Westside Express Service of Tri-Met in Metro Portland, Oregon, which is operated by the Portland and Western line, at the Tualatin station. See
The internal rail is there to make it possible for narrow gauge freight trains to pass through the station if needed. This was mostly essential in the 1960's but is still used today on suburban rail routes which share track with mainline trains or freight trains.
I've used it, but don't have a lot of data to share. After I cut the rust out of the Miata, I used a combination of compressed air and a shop-vac to get the loose bits out of the inner structure in the rockers. I was going from the rear towards the front, under the door on each side. Once I had that cleaned out, I used the Eastwood stuff to coat the inside where there was some surface rust happening, but it was still solid as far as I could tell. It was pretty easy to get a good coat by just pressing the button and pulling the little sprayball-on-a-hose back towards me. I have no long-term data on that, though, because even though it's been a year or so, I still haven't finished welding up the patch panels so the car hasn't been driven. It did sit outside for a while, though, and I didn't see any signs of rust re-forming.
A friend of mine had a PT Cruiser that was rusting the rockers out really badly. It wasn't worth repairing, but she wanted to try to mitigate it so it would last until her Bronco finally arrived. The outer portion of the rocker had pretty much rusted away while the structural bits on the inside were still mostly there, so I blew out the chunks real fast and then sprayed what I had left of the inner frame rail stuff in to the cavity. That seemed to keep things in stasis for the additional year it took for the Bronco to finally show up at the dealer for her.
With its elegant aesthetics, design rail Glybeau adds an extra dimension to your window decoration. With its subtle design, curtain and rail become one, making this rail a stylish addition to the interior rather than a disturbing factor.
The motorized Glybeau features a unique wave variant. In this version, the head of the motor is rotated so that the wave curtain continues beautifully without interruptions. This asset is unique on the market.
For fully customized operation, you can choose either manual or motorized control. At a glance, you can see how attention was paid to every detail. The result? An unmatched appearance combined with ultimate ease of use.
We here at The Platform thank all of our Link light rail riders for your patience as we close out the first month of reduced Link light rail service during the Connect 2020 construction to integrate light rail from the Eastside with the existing line.
Planning for this work goes back several years as our Engineering/Construction and Operations departments ironed out plans to keep the trains running while major construction is happening in and around the International District-Chinatown Station (IDS).
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