Crush Kennels

[Urbano Bozman]

I am in the process of finishing a small dog-run/kennel on the back part of my property. I do not have the funds at this time to lay a slab like I would prefer and am trying to decide on the best alternative. I am thinking about either river washed pebbles or cedar mulch. The pebbles would be more hygenic and easier to keep clean, but would retain heat in the summer, though the area is shaded. The Cedar mulch would not be as durable, harder to clean, but would probably be cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter and I'm thinking, being Cedar, provide some insect repellant properties. Does anyone have any suggestion/ advice on these alternative or perhaps some other inexpensive cover.

A thought to keep in mind: smooth pebbles can act like ball bearings, which may not be ideal in a situation where a dog may be running in the area, especially if he/she needs to come to a sudden stop.

I have lately been hearing that the oils in cedar shavings (and so I presume mulch) can cause problems for dogs. If the kennel isn't large (which would bring Bustopher's concerns to the fore), I would opt for the pebbles. If the area is shaded, the pebbles will actually feel cool in the summer, and I think they would definitely be easier to keep clean. Just be sure to provide a comfy place for Partner to rest (a raised platform or a rubber mat) in addition to a house.

Another concern is that small pebbles can be consumed. I couldn't use them because my pup would most likely eat them (the little weirdo). I use cedar shavings in their dog houses and then something called "crush 'n run" in the outdoor part of the kennel. It is crushed slate and over time, it gets worn down so it becomes a hard surface. It less expensive than concrete, easy to pick up poop on, easy to deoderize and doesn't get icy in the winter or hot in the summer.

Thanks for the information. I have not heard of this product. Where do you get it? I can get the river washed pebbles and cedar mulch at local landscaping firms. Is the "crush n run" something that is local to Virgina?

Julie, thanks for the information on the Cedar. I will have to look into it. I have a little of both covers in the pen right now. The pebbles are much easier to clean than the cedar, so I am leaning that way. Another option may be limestone paving stones. They are pretty cheap where I live and would be too big to eat. BTW the kennel is small enough that I don't think sliding on the pebbles would be a problem.

I got it for my kennel when I lived in Georgia, so it is not just Virginia. I doubt a landscaper would carry it because it is not for landscaping, but more for like gravel driveways. Maybe call a paving company that sells gravel? We have a slate mining company nearby and that is where I got mine from.

Most sand and gravel companies should carry crush n run. It is used a lot for driveways in this part of the world, and I imagine it should be available in Texas too (or something similar anyway). When I was growing up we used to get something called crushed bluestone (probably the same as crush and run)--it was rather powdery but when packed became quite hard surfaced.

You can get crush-n-run pretty much anywhere - it's a standard road surfacing material. It may be called something different and be made of something different (granite isn't available all over), but it's the stuff they typically use on what we call "gravel roads".

We built wood kennels but we don't use ours much. I'd think for extended stays or determined "markers" they could get nasty pretty fast. If it ever comes to that I'll seal them with ship varnish and lay mats down for tractions. I like wood because it's private and warm and looks nice (well, they will when they are painted).

I have had great results from laying rubber stall mats (fit tightly with no gaps) on either packed soil, sand or decomposed granite. Depending on how active your dog is cedar and/or pebbles could end up making a mess (especially if you have a digger). The stall mats reduce impact, prevent digging, are very easy to clean, stay warm in cold and provide a comfortable surface. I started using the mats to thwart an adolescent digger and quickly converted the rest of the kennel because I liked it so much. At the time I couldn't afford a cement pad and didn't want to install anything permanent. I recommended the mats to a friend with a pup that was eating gravel and rocks (and had vet bills) and it solved the problem. I like that you can really sanitize the mats and provide a clean surface for the dogs.

These days I have cement flooring for my kennels but still lay the stall mats for the comfort of the dogs and for cleanliness. No matter what surface my dogs are on, I think I'll always have stall mats in their kennels.

If I were going to use an aggregate material I's use Stone Dust the finest form of crushed stone. This material can pack down almost as hard as concrete. You could come back later and lay a hard surface over this material like paver stones or concrete. Crush n Run or what this place calls 2A Modified is a mix of stone and dust and is often used for gravel drives and roads.

The Crush n Run is often referred to as Crusher Run and as was said, is commonly used on roads and driveways (mine included). Within a few years, it will be fused together and you would need a pick-ax to break it up. If you use it, make sure it is granite and not shale/slate as that may slice the dog's pads.

Flat slate or crushed slate? Whenever I went hiking with my brother's old dog in slate areas, he always ended up a slice or two. It also depends on the dog's lifestyle...Reggie was a house dog, through and through. If your dogs are outside running around a lot, or actual working dogs, their pads will be tougher.

Just like your home needs periodic maintenance to keep it in shape, your outdoor dog kennel maintenance is also very important in order to help you realize its full potential. Here are a few pointers that will help you get the most out of your kennel.

Outdoor dog kennels come with a few different exterior siding options. One of the most beautiful options is painted or stained wood siding. The downside of wood siding is that it usually requires a little more maintenance to keep it in top shape. This also applies to wood trim.

The key to keeping wood siding performing and looking the way it should is to keep the paint or stain job up to date. If the paint on your puppy kennel is peeling or cracking, then moisture and harmful UV rays have already begun to damage the wood. On average, wood siding should be repainted or stained every 4-6 years (before the water-tight seal of the old paint is compromised). Be sure to remove all dirt and mildew before applying a fresh coat of paint or stain.

Follow these simple steps for years of enjoyment and a maximum return on your residential or commercial dog kennel investment! Check out this article for some more tips and information on proper dog kennel maintenance.

It is important that your dog has comfortable flooring in its dog kennel or dog house where it can fully relax. Take a look at some dog kennel flooring ideas and decide what the best one is for you and your pup.

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You will all have heard about 'feline friendly' practices, and how to move towards this goal, I am sure. The International Society of Feline Medicine (ISFM) have worked hard over the past couple of years to promote feline friendly techniques and practice environments, and to support staff and practices in achieving this. But how far ahead are we? Are practices moving forward and working to try and achieve more in terms of 'fear free' practice, or are many still lagging behind? Maybe practices appreciate that certain techniques should be avoided, such as use of the crush cage, however they simply don't have the tools or knowledge to deal with a 'fractious' patient and get the procedure done, so don't know which way to turn in this situation.

I will be honest - several years ago I heard of a practitioner condoning the scruffing of cats, and myself, with no knowledge of why this was, felt it was unnecessary- that scruffing of cats caused no stress or trauma to the cat, and made it safer for the handler. I just didn't know the facts. It's a little like all these pictures we see of kids cuddling dogs - it used to be ok, but now we've had our eyes opened to the body language that the dog is showing, how uncomfortable it may be for some dogs, and just how dangerous this actually is. We're sensitised to it.

So, are you sensitised to cat stress? Can you detect it? Can you see it coming and more importantly do you know how to avoid it? What about a cat that's already had a bad experience at the practice and now has its card marked? Is your practice hoping to move towards cat friendly status, but you're not quite there yet?

There is so much we can do - right from advising our clients on bringing cats to the practice (ok, how many clients only get the cat box out when they're bringing the cat in for a repeat blood test or vaccination?!), to environmental considerations - reception, consulting room, prep room, inpatient area - and that's before we've even looked at how we approach these cats. We can learn so much about how we handle them; and what we do when it's clear we're not going to be able to proceed due to the cat's response.

Linda Ryan, who tutors our low stress handling in cats module, worked in referral medicine at Edinburgh university, and this is where she began to really think about how we handle these patients - the ones that have to come back again and again. How we can make it easier for them, their owners and us! It has such an impact on welfare, quality of life and our consciences, in that we are doing the right thing for these patients. She shared one of her stories with us.

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