9mm Diamondback

[Ahmend Studioz]

Ihave no direct experience with tungsten carbide nozzles but it is my understanding that they are for most use cases the more economic option. The diamondback has an edge over tungsten carbide nozzles when it comes to heat transfer (especially at the tip)

True, for most people it won't make much difference. For me it does because I use it with my MMU and being able to reduce hotend temperature, without increasing the risk of clogging, is helping me there. Of course, a plated copper nozzle might achieve something similar but the diamondback combines that with greater wear resistance.

I used the tungsten carbide nozzle for quite a while until I fouled it up by breaking off one of those cleaning bits in it and could not get the piece out. The performance was pretty much the same as the stock brass nozzle, except, of course, it did not wear nearly as much.

Also the Diamond back nozzle is okay with hitting the print bed. I asked this on the Kickstarter. The reply was hitting the print bed was okay. But the nozzle was not intended for smashing the nozzle with a hammer or something like that.

I've also had serious stringing/oozing issues with my MK3S+ since installing a .4mm Diamondback nozzle. Prior to the install printer worked perfectly with default settings. I've ran temp tower tests and even reducing the temp to 190 which seems to have the least amount of stringing issues however my prints look like they are encased in webs. Did a retraction speed calibration test and the results were unreadable due to the severity of stringing. Currently testing to see if my flow rate is over extruding due to the reduced coefficient of friction otherwise I am at a loss on how to salvage my sanity besides going back to a regular copper nozzle. Anyone happen to have setting suggestions or tests I may not have tried yet?

The diamondback seems to handle lower hotend temperatures just fine so unless you have other reasons not to, I would reduce it -5 to -10C compared to stock settings. Looking at your temp tower that did also help somewhat. Other than that, how does a properly dried filament look like? Is it also stringing?

I tried going at lower temps for the retraction test but still ended up with pretty bad stringing. Can't really push it lower than 175 before the layers suffer. Tried a bunch of retraction speeds/settings but couldn't get better than default settings at 190. Tried multiple filaments with the same result and even opened a new box of Hatchbox white which was still sealed to see if it was a moisture issue but still got same results.

Ended up switching out to a stainless steel which I've had better luck with on my ender. Thinking I got either a rare bad run or I messed up on installing it somehow. Pic below of my retraction tests at 190 and 180.

I have the 0.4 and the 0.6 Diamondback nozzles and I can't get either to print very well. I'm using Overture PLA which prints very well with my brass nozzles. The extrusion seems good when I look at the top of my prints but the sides are not very smooth/even. I've adjusted the extrusion multiplier to these settings: 1, 98, 95, 92, 90 without success. I've printed from 190-215 degrees without any real difference in the print quality. I've recalibrated the XYZ settings and first layer settings. Wondering what settings people are using that are producing the desired results. I've used both the generic PLA and Prusa filament presets. I'm new to 3d printing so maybe I've missed something in my setup. Thanks.

You know how sometime the filament "curls" a bit at the tip of the nozzle when changing filament? Now it extrudes straight down... it seems the belief that the diamond may be more slippery might be correct.

Have you found a resolution to your problem of the filament not sticking to the build plate with these nozzles? I just changed over to Diamondback after using brass with all 3 build plate types for 18 months without issues. Now I can't get the first layer to stick on any plate. The ends of the lines are curling up. Even after dealing in the live-z calibration, it seems to change and curl again. Very frustrating. I have spent hours trying to fix this with no success.

@andruskj I'm in the same boat. I've had my MKS3+ for 2 years, perfect prints with PLA/PETG on the OEM nozzle. I decided to replace the nozzle with a Diamondback .4 m. I can't get anything to stick to any build plates, even using a glue stick (which I've only used as a release agent before). I'm about to call it a loss and switch back to brass or Nozzel X.

I have had the diamondback 0.4mm nozzle for over a year now. No issues with PLA on the smooth sheet and PETG on the textured sheet. Have run glow pla and carbon filled PETG as abrasives through it and the nozzle has been exceptional.

I was finally able to dial mine in. My live-z calibration went from -1.378 to -1.727. I also dropped the nozzle temp by 20 for PETG. Wow what a difference the nozzle actually makes. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

Grabbed a revo diamondback for my MK3.5 as I wanted to try some CF filaments... my word, this thing is exceptional. I changed it at the same time I changed my revo heater (got one of the early crap ones), replaced under warranty, it printed PETG-CF pretty much perfect first time. I couldn't even break the strength tab on my test model, insanely good layer adhesion.

As others have found, it conducts heat too well, had to reduce some of the temps of my filament profiles by 5-10 degrees to stop oozing, stringing etc. I may have to keep tweaking, as it does still 'feel' a bit hot. Apart from that, my surfaces look amazing, to get a nice surface finish, I do 'poor mans ironing', where I set the top two layers to 0.42 and reduce the acceleration. Get almost a mirror finish in much less time than standard ironing.

I do have some curl/blobbing, but I am using a new filament on some test models, feels like it's got a lot more G than my usual PETG. I think I'll have to calibrate for it, but haven't bothered as it's only for a few test models. I feel if I reduce the extrusion and temp a little it'll improve, or maybe the retract... dunno. Not going to venture down that rabbit hole as my go to filament (eSun PETG) prints amazingly.

Overall, amazing product, I was going to run the CF through my obxidian, but decided to treat my self. I'm sure it would have handled it fine, but reading about the thermal properties of the diamondback, and lifelong use, I thought why not.

I do have one issue, about the revo's in general... MAKE A FULL SOCK! Seriously, I'm sick of cleaning my nozzle. I'm about to make my own, but far out, why should I need to. This seems like a no brainer.

After completing the first temperature tower with Fillamentum PLA I have to say I am impressed. I tested from 210C down to 185C and it managed to print the entire tower without failure. With the Brass nozzle I tended to get problems at below 200C. (Official recommendation with stock brass ist 190-210X).

Yeah , It easily swaps into my hotend, and prints smoothly with minimal slicer adjustment. Worth the price to not have to worry about my nozzle wearing down from abrasive filaments and needing replacement.

I picked one up for my mk3s+ because I needed a new nozzle after 1 year of printing on the OEM one. I also wanted to start printing with glow in the dark filament. It printed perfectly with the default profiles. As soon as my enclosure comes in I am going to start printing more abrasive composites. I'm definitely sold in not having to worry about nozzle changes, not having a gunked up nozzle ruin prints and bought a second one for my mini+.

3a8082e126