Wolf Skull Mask
Beichen Poque
Painting the wolf skullBefore painting the wolf skull mask, I applied a coat of gesso over the whole thing. Gesso is a thick white paint-like substance that can help smooth out any imperfections in your paper mach surface. In this case it really helped smooth out the teeth in particular.
Then I used my usual methods for the actual painting of this mask: spray paint, then acrylic paint for details and shading, then matte spray. I have a whole article about my painting techniques here. Here are some pics of my progress:
Then I applied white acrylic paint in two steps: first one round of drying brushing with a large brush, and then one round of slightly-watered-down paint applied all over with a sponge. The end result is a layered, shaded look with many different values of dark and light, from almost black in the deepest indentations (like around the teeth) to stark white on the most raises areas, like the ridges on the eye sockets and cheek bones and the ridge at the top of the head.
The main pieces that helped build out the rest of the mask where two long panels of foam board on either side of the snout, and some curved smaller strips of poster board to round out the front of the snout.
I forgot to mention, I built out the front of this lower jaw piece (i.e. the chin) with some thin strips of poster board that I wrapped around the front, held on with a lot of masking tape to cover and smooth everything out.
With the base of the skull and jaw finished, it was time to apply the paper mach. I used seven layers for this mask; you can read more about my paper mach method here. The short version is: I use Roman PRO-543 universal wallpaper adhesive (paid link) and alternating layers of newspaper and brown wrapping paper.
Here's the nearly-finished sculpture I created in Monster Clay. I completely forgot to take photos of the finished sculpture, but this one's close... it just looks a little rough since I hadn't yet gone through my process of smoothing it out.
The mold making process for this mask is pretty standard - brushed-on coats of silicone (Rebound 25) for the detailed interior mold, and a rigid exterior shell made from epoxy putty (FreeForm Air). The only unusual feature of this mold is a little section I left open between the large canine teeth, since otherwise the outer mold would lock around the tooth and be almost impossible to remove!
Here's Robbie showing off one of the ways this mask can be worn. It can certainly be used as a standard face mask, but it makes a great headdress or even a pauldron. Check out this awesome stilt beastie spotted at Universal Studios' Halloween Horror Nights 2019 in Florida wearing a wolf skull on each shoulder! (Apologies it's not the best picture, if you happened to have got a photo of this guy, let me know!)
There is now a second bead-decorated wolf skull mask available through the Etsy shop!
This one with even more beads than the first. ^^
Decorated with beads and shells, sewn and/or glued on by hand. The mask is made of my own paper clay. A kind of ecological papier mache made of mainly reused old newspapers.
Here we are in the "spooktober" again and this time I have release a pretty spooky mask. Combine it with hoodie and a long hair wig will make it even spookier for this Halloween. My son always charge me and hitting me whenever I wear this mask, somehow it made him uncomfortable [lol]. At first I already planned to make a horse mask, but stumbled upon some creepy wolf skull mask on Google image search and divert the plan. The horse can wait. Unlike most of my template, this one I use bitmap texturing, still learning but quite happy with the result. I recommend to use paper above 160 gram, because in build test I use 100 gram HVS and it was quite hard to assembly, but it can be done for skilled builder.
Prepare part 1 before add part 9 and 10. Continue by attaching nose cavity (part 20) from inside the nose hole and then glue the forehead (part 4). Glue the eye sockets from inside the mask (part 2 and 3). Patch the cheek with part 7 and 8 and then continue by attaching part 5 and 6. The last part for this phase is part 17 and 18.
Add cushion pads just like the picture above. I use 1cm thick EVA foam for cushion pads. Use plastic sheets for part 25 and then make holes for rubber band and finally glue it inside the cheek bones, i use hot glue for extra strength. You can make holes on the skull's white eyes for your eyes to see through, but I prefer to leave the skull's eye untouched and made holes on the eye sockets just above the eye, just make sure the holes are in the black colored area, so it wont visible when you wear the mask.
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This pattern never been tested, some minor errors were found in several of previuos models, please be advise maybe you will find errors such as missing tabs or unnecessary tabs, despite the models never been tested, many have succeeded build all of them perfectly, just need little imagination and dedication to this hobby.
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For some background information that will be useful, plus it's what I modeled this project after would be this skull mask tutorial and worblapie tutorial. It is a good idea to watch them before proceeding since I mostly based this process on these tutorials.
You'll want to make this cardboard base out of, well you guessed it, cardboard: specifically cardboard from things such like cereal boxes! It's thin, and easy to work with and won't make your base super heavy.
Paper mask: which you can find at your local craft stores. It'll allow you to put the mask on your face and hold it in place, also where to judge to put the eye holes later on in the process. You will then want to cut off the jaw line of the mask.
I have also bought a foam head so I can mount the mask and work with the skull easier. To make sure you have the right dimensions, however, I recommend measuring the circumference of your own head, and also the foam head so you know if you have to make your cardboard base bigger. (As for me, I was basically the same circumference as the foam head). But, due to the later steps, I recommend making the cardboard base at least a half-inch bigger than your head for wiggle room, or your mask will be tight and squeeze your head which will cause uncomfortable headaches.
This will be the base of your teeth. Like most wolf teeth and skulls, they have their canines, more rows of sharp teeth, then another row of flatter teeth behind. Then there's a ridge where the lower jaw bone is supposed to fit.
The flaps on the pattern allow you to fold them behind the nose area in the pattern to make a 3D snout-like shape. I also took cardboard and put "arches" around the the top of the head and the back of the head as a frame.
Fine grain flour. I used basic white flour that you can find at your local grocery store. I liked using this because it gave me the perfect bone texture and colour without any painting!
Take it out, proceed to mush the worbla pie, ball it up, squeeze it to basically try and morph it into one homogeneous pie (be careful though, it will be very hot so use gloves or some kind of flattening tool)
I used modelling clay that you can find at your local art store to make some teeth. I made little teeth and used Gorilla Glue to glue it in place. Later on, you'll see, the worbla we'll apply will take shape to the clay and give the entire shape more depth.
Use a heatgun or a hairdryer to reheat the worbla and apply it to the mask base. I also used Gorilla Glue to glue the worbla onto the base, but once the worbla cools down it should make a very hard and sturdy cover.
take several sheets of newspaper (the same type you covered the mask in) and scrunch it up. You will want to move, manipulate, bend, and twist it until the desired horn shape. You will also need your masking tape to keep certain bends in place, then you'll cover the entire horn in the tape as well.
I cut holes into the base of the horn, and glued the magnet discs into them. Make sure they are all facing the same way polarity wise! After that, I stuck them into the base and attached the magnets to the outside of the base, the magnets should be strong enough to be attracted to the magnets in the horns and you'll know where to glue the second set exactly.
I used craft foam that you can find at your local craft store to make the pattern of the lower jaw. It's easier to do this after you made the top half of the skull so you can make sure it aligns well.
To attach the lower jaw to the costume, I attached it to a ski mask around where my jaw is. However, upon covering the lower jaw with worbla it actually became too heavy to the ski mask and would not stick, I had to use a combination of disc magnets, loctite, and gorilla glue to get it to stay.
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