Adjustable neck video

[Paul McEvoy]

Barry asked how I'm making my adjustable necks.  I changed my process a lot recently and made a little video about it.  

It's one handed and production values are zero. 

https://youtu.be/D0WzTPN6Qno?si=W7l5c8H-WcD6oVdf

Paul McEvoy
207-699-9526

[pymodus]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the detailed video! But now I have more questions...

• Will you add a metal plate where the set screw will turn, or is your plan to use the G10 alone?
• What adhesive do you use to bond G10 to wood?
• Also, have you bonded G10 to itself? This Q because while I'd love it, I'm not CNC capable; don't know that I'll spring for it.
• Do you have a preferred G10 supplier?

Regards,

Manus

[Paul McEvoy]

1) no, the set screw just sits against the G10, it doesn't make a dent particularly.  

2) I use West G-Flex thickened epoxy for this sort of thing, it's perfect.  A little expensive.  I mix it on a piece of wood with tape on it and measure the weights on my little druggy scale.  But I used to just do it by eye (it's two parts)

3) I'm not sure what you mean by that.  You can epoxy G10 to G10 or to wood.  In this case I'm only bonding it to wood.  

4) I buy sheets from McMaster Carr.  It's not super cheap but they have everything.  You can find it on ebay.  You could probably use another composite like Micarta or something but G10 is very strong and I've worked with it before.

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Paul McEvoy
207-699-9526

[David]

Interesting process! Thanks for taking the time to explain it.

-David

[pymodus]

Hi Paul, thanks for responses. Sorry for my lack of clarity when I mentioned CNC. I don't have CNC, and thinking of your wedge piece which has a notch on top, I thought of laminating two pieces of G10 to create the notch.

[Paul McEvoy]

ah got it.

Well you can cut G10 with a saw.  It's pretty tough stuff.  I bought a 'portasaw' a metal cutting bandsaw from Harbor freight, and the stand that they sell for it (I think I got the Hercules, not the Bauer).  I use that for cutting things that will dull my regular blade.  

I don't use my CNC to work on the wedge, I have a little Sherline milling machine that I make that step with.  I have a Sherline lathe as well.  Perfect size for lutherie stuff and I got both of them for $900 plus a bunch of accessories.  A great buy.

Anyway, I have in the past rough cut the wedge with the bandsaw and then finished it on the mill.  This last time I did the whole thing on the mill.  It makes a holy mess.  Really nasty dust.  

You could maybe do it just on the saw, I would have a hard time getting everything to be nice and square but it's possible.  I think it would dull a regular bandsaw blade pretty quick.  

Could also do it on a tablesaw maybe.

You could glue it though, as you say.  You'd still have to cut the wedge shape somehow.  

You could also do what I used to do and just make the heel longer and then cut the slot in the wood of the heel.  

This shows how I used to do it:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOnkkIce06p_fvBOe-4PbQhYORsVVo8vdRS3tTYrW-lt6E1-yHVQsx7GEMv5xKYRQ?key=c2p0RXBOMm5BWUl4YnlnMDh4OXIySHdxMWo4ZmpB

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Paul McEvoy
207-699-9526

[Paul McEvoy]

Those pictures are how I initially did it.  I quickly ditched the hourglass heel and now my heels are straight sided.  You can see in one picture how the notch is cut in the heel.  

This is how my heels are now...same for classical guitars.  

Paul McEvoy
207-699-9526

[Paul McEvoy]

Paul McEvoy
207-699-9526