Binding routing jig recommendations

[Chuck Barnett]

So far I have found three that I'd like to ask about: 

STEWMAC (TrueChannel)

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/jigs-and-fixtures-for-guitar-building-and-repair/truechannel-binding-router-jig-with-guitar-body-cradle-and-binding-bit-set/

GUITARS AND WOODS

https://guitarsandwoods.com/binding-routing-jig.html?search=Binding%20router%20jig&description=true

ELMER GUITAR

https://elmerguitar.com/products/binding-router-jig

My questions: 

I believe that many of you use the StewMac jig.  Anybody use the others?  I'm not sure why I should spend $400 when I can spend $166 and do the same thing. Looking for wisdom here. 

Gratefully,

Chuck Barnett
425-530-0328

[barry...@gmail.com]

Chuck,

I just used the Elmer jig last week. It worked really well  - I had no problems.

When you make the table suggested in the directions, I found I needed to make it very close to the dimensions of the guitar. Originally I made one larger figuring I could route using that base. It was slightly too large so I ended up smaller.

I also replaced the leveling/holding brackets with taller units (Amazon). The ones supplied are probably fine, but I wanted something a bit more stout.

I did many test runs with a 2x4 to get used to it and to check tolerances. I also did a test run with an old guitar that I saved just for test runs.

Again the Elmer kid worked

great.

In His Name - 

Barry

On Sep 19, 2025, at 2:02 PM, Chuck Barnett <charles...@gmail.com> wrote:



--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Robert O'Brien Guitar Building Forum" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to obrien-forum...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/obrien-forum/CAHw0Fd%2BwTO%2BQqDQHnMyTvVniW1QMRfePsccJ%2B1cFFmCDfFL7sA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Marcello Codispoti]

I’ve used the Elmer routing  fixture on 5 of my Ukulele builds and it worked well .

It’s fraction of the cost from S. Mac. and not very different from the photos.   The only downside for me was the amount of setup tome to get the cuts precisely where I wanted them & then switching bearings for the purfling and doing it all over again.  I did order a second base from Elmer  with the intention of setting up two routers solely set up for the two operations. You still need to tweak the adjustments due to sizing variables with the binding & purfling  if they are from different manufacturering  batches. 

After touring the Martin Guitar factory and seeing how they cut the channels 

( they use cutters & not router bits ) I found a similar set up but using a router bit & permanently  mounted bearings to allow for a number of different procedures by adjusting them and not removing & replacing for the different steps. . No need to change bearings for the various cuts , just an adjustment on the fixture  itself. There is a slight learning curve as with most new tools so plan on spending some quality time with it. The fixture is from 

“Elevate Luthier ” ,do a 

search they have videos  on the operation of all their tools.  

I like the tool & it worked well for me. 

It costs Significantly more than the Elmer tool but it’s a completely different approach to cutting binding & purfling  

channels. The tool is extremely well  built.  

Both systems work , your choice. 

I hope this helps in your decision making process. 

Marcello Codispoti 

On Sep 19, 2025, at 2:02 PM, Chuck Barnett <charles...@gmail.com> wrote:



--

[Jim Ethington]

This is the one I use and it works great...

https://www.luthiertool.com/hand-held.html

Jim Ethington
Luthier at Ethington Custom Guitars

j...@jimezplace.com
Cell: 813.785.6493

Joshua 24:15
Anything worth doing is worth doing poorly… until you can learn to do it well… Zig
Everyday is a great day, if you don’t believe me, just try missing one… Mom

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/obrien-forum/B853DA64-6B24-48E1-BED8-4E28F5CCF086%40aol.com.

[Sean Gilbert]

I've used a couple of the Elmer products. I can't see any substantive difference in design from some of the expensive name-brand jigs and they are a lot cheaper. They do use different sized screws (often seems to be metric) and perhaps cheaper materials. I have used the rosette cutter for a while, but wonder about buying myself a different one each time I use it. The screws tend to work themselves loose easily as I am using it and it can get a little bit of wobble in it. In general, however, I have found their tools to be a very economical option that get the job done. I haven't tried their binding jig.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/obrien-forum/9d1c7195-10ab-455f-bda7-7e1accf4a274%40jimezplace.com.

[Chuck_Barnett]

Jim, that is essentially the same concept as the one I've been using.  Mine is made of wood.  The challenge  is keeping the jig registered tightly to the sides and not rocking the bit into the cut either upon entry or exit.  If I did this more often, I could get by with this jig, but once every 3 years hasn't been often enough.

[Chuck_Barnett]

Jim, I love your signature, BTW!

On Friday, September 19, 2025 at 12:44:06 PM UTC-7 jim wrote:

[Michael Minton]

I switched over to the Elevate jig from the upgraded LMII.  I prefer the Elevate jig.  The upsides are (1) it registers off the side, not the top, so you don't get a varying mortise depth with a radiused top or back (as long as your sides are square-ask me how I know that); (2) it is very fast and easy to adjust for different thicknesses of bindings and for the vertical height of the cut; (3) it is small and doesn't take up any table space (I had to fix the LMII jig to the table to get good results).  The downside is it takes a little practice to get confident.  If you "elevate" the rim off the back bearing as you are cutting you will be sad (unless that happens first pass at less than full thickness-ask me how I know that).  What I have found is if you make 2 passes adjusting the mortise depth things go more smoothly.

[Chuck Barnett]

Thank you, Michael! I didn't know anything about those. It operates on the same principle as my little wooden one that is fastened to the bottom of a router. The success or failure of the method I'm using depends on steadiness of hand and ability to keep the nose of the guide against the sides at 90°. Or take multiple passes.

Some of the same principles apply in both methods. One is to be sure to rest the far end of the guide against the side of the instrument before introducing the bit to the wood. And then when finishing a pass, to tilt a bit away from the wood before the far end leaves the side. 

For $500, at this point in my 'career', I will purse my lips and pray and practice ahead of time. If I ever got to the point where I was making and selling instruments, why then it's a no-brainer.  I would look at this as a meaningful and important purchase. 

Thanks, again!

Chuck Barnett
425-530-0328

You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "Robert O'Brien Guitar Building Forum" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/obrien-forum/LPJs5vBVmgo/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to obrien-forum...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/obrien-forum/432cb686-1c2e-4a1b-844b-eb4c23c1a492n%40googlegroups.com.

[Chuck Barnett]

Michael, you do make a point that I want to revisit.  The determination if the sides are perpendicular to the top and bottom plates. That has been a bit of a challenge for me to figure out. That's probably another topic thread. But if you've got any tips, I'm open. :-)

Chuck Barnett
425-530-0328

On Tue, Sep 23, 2025, 8:15 AM Michael Minton <skywa...@gmail.com> wrote:

You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "Robert O'Brien Guitar Building Forum" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/obrien-forum/LPJs5vBVmgo/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to obrien-forum...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/obrien-forum/432cb686-1c2e-4a1b-844b-eb4c23c1a492n%40googlegroups.com.

[Elaine Seat]

I have used the StewMac, but have now moved to the Elevate binding cutter. At first it terrified me as I thought I'd cut callouses off!

But it actually is easy to use and you avoid the problem of the bearing on the router never being quite right.

Elaine

[Chuck Barnett]

Thanks, Elaine.

To make the S/M style jig work for me, my guess is that I'd opt for a slightly shallower channel and scrape/sand more.

Re: anxiety with the procedure, I'm sceptical of my ability to manipulate an instrument on the Elevate jig and keep it steadily pressured onto the guides.  Again, part of the issue is due to the fact that at this point I am a hobbyist, producing the occasional instrument with big time gaps between 

Chuck Barnett
425-530-0328

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/obrien-forum/76df5255-8b2d-482e-9a30-cb04fa24cf39n%40googlegroups.com.

[David Hole]

I also love the Elevate jig for the same reasons.   There is a learning / confidence curve and holding the guitar and rotating it around can feel a bit unnerving at first.  My way to solve this was to pick up some battered old second hand guitars from the dump / second hand stores etc.   Sacrifice them before tackling your own build.  

I especially like the ability to dial in the depth of the cut.  I'm not a happy router in general so this gives me a bit of confidence.  

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/obrien-forum/432cb686-1c2e-4a1b-844b-eb4c23c1a492n%40googlegroups.com.

[Charles Tauber]

I have the Canadian Luthier Supply version of the binding jig: https://www.canadianluthiersupply.com/products/binding-jig. It is a copy by Josh House of the original jig that was created in the 1970's by Larrivee and his apprentices. (The originals were all aluminum, no plywood.) Like the original, it controls depth of cut by using a set of "dumbbell-shaped" aluminum cylinders that keep the surface of the dumbbells concentric with the center of the router bit. The Elevate jig is a variation of that, one in which the dumbbells have been replaced by a moveable cylinder. The moveable cylinder ends up being eccentric to the center of the router bit, though, in use, that wouldn't matter much. In my opinion, it is a clever improvement, but the original works well too. 

As others have stated, the use of the jig is somewhat unnerving. My preference is to use the LIM jig - more or less the same as the Stewmac jig - with StewMac's bearings and router bit. Although there is more setup involved, it is more forgiving. 

The Luthier Tool jig is a high-tech version of what Charles Fox used in the 1970, but the Fox version was made of wood/plywood/bolts. It Fox version works well, as I'm sure the Luthier Tool version would also. Like the Larrivee/Elevation jig, one does need to keep both wheels touching the side.

Of the jigs, I find the Larrivee style the most difficult and unforgiving of the Fox, Larrivee and LMI/SM jigs. Many guitars have successfully used that jig, so it is about the learning curve and getting comfortable with it. All of them will work: chose your comfort-level, price and preference.

Charles

[Rob Maurer]

Chuck,

I have also been using the Elevate jig. I agree with Elaine and David's feedback. At first I was terrified! But after a few passes you find it's not that hard.

Rob

[Chris Yates]

The Fleishman jig is a little more expensive but I've seen some great results with it.  I personally prefer to move the router jig than the instrument.  

https://bluescreekguitars.com/product/fleishman-binding-machine/

[johnc.marple]

I have the Stew Mac, it works great. The only issue I have is that there is no bearing available that allows for a wider purfling, such as a herringbone.  

I was thinking of the Elavate, but can't justify the cost 

[Charles Tauber]

I think this was discussed here before. The LMI bit/binding set, stated to be incompatible with the StewMac set, will cut a maximum rabbet of .230, compared to StewMac's maximum or .20". How wide do you need the rabbet to be? 

A smaller bearing of the same bore would allow a wider rabbet, as would the same bearings, but larger diameter router bit. The trick is to get bore sizes for bearings that match the shaft on the router bit. Those can easily be measured and one can probably find something that works. Alternatively, one could easily 3D print a bearing of suitable size: the bearing isn't a high speed/rpm application and doesn't need to be much more than a collar/spacer.  

[Brock Poling]

Did you see we started selling the “old” LMI bearing / cutter set.  When LMI closed we bought their stock of bearings.

The minimum order quantities on these are enormous, so when they closed they had a ton on hand, we bought them then partnered with Whiteside to bring back the cutters that matched them. 

 

That is the set I have used for years on my builds and it has bits small enough to cut herringbone purflings. 

 

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Robert O'Brien Guitar Building Forum" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to obrien-forum...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/obrien-forum/872cf9ea-9973-4f9d-82a6-a5c9d89754d3n%40googlegroups.com.

[erik.tosten]

Question about the Elevate jig: Is it possible to overcut the binding channel if you don't have a steady enough pass? The website says no, but I have my doubts, and at $500. 

I would be happy with a router and the LMI bearing set. The only problem is that with only a single bearing, it cuts into the side, and I couldn't find a router bit that will allow for two stacked bearings.

Erik

[Ensor Guitars & ELEVATE]

Erik,

This is Chris with ELEVATE.

Yes, you can overcut a binding channel with my jig.  This is done if the instrument tilts towards the jig/router and off of the back contact point.  This is the one I refer to in the tutorial as the "most important point of contact".  As long as you are touching this point you can't overcut a channel.  If the instrument leaves this point, an overcut occurs.  

I hope this clarifies things.  Let me know if you have any other questions.  

Thanks. 

[Charles Tauber]

A student of mine over cut the channel using the Canadian Luthier Supply version by slightly tipping the guitar so that the side only rides on the bearing surface closest to the cutter. I'd be surprised if it's not possible with the Elevate. As everyone has said, it requires some practice and "getting used to". 

"The only problem is that with only a single bearing, it cuts into the side..."

I'm not following you. The bearing is attached to the end of the router bit and protrudes past the cutting edges of the bit. The single bearing rides against the side with the cutter above it, cutting less deep than the bearing position.

All of the "hubbub" about specialized binding cutting jigs is due to the curved/domed surfaces of the back and top. If the bottom of the router references the domed surfaces for the depth of cut, the router will variably tilt as it goes around the perimeter of the guitar shape while following the curvature of top or back. That produces binding channels that are not uniform in depth and width.  If one references the sides, instead of top or back, for the depth of cut, one can achieve uniform depth and width binding channels straight off the router cut. Otherwise, one must use handwork - chisels, files, etc. - to make the channels uniform. So, one can just use a router with a bearing bit or with an inexpensive standard laminate trimmer attachment, but both will require handwork to even out the binding channels, else the bindings will vary in depth and thickness. 

Just for the sake of completeness, there are two other designs of binding-cutting jigs that haven't been mentioned. One is a pantograph arrangement, usually homemade, such as this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lan2pKWE1Do. They used to be a fairly common jig but they don't seem to be as popular these days. The other I don't have a link to, but is a simpler/less expensive version of the Luthier's Tools arrangement.

Charles 

[Chuck Barnett]

If you zoom in you may see the downcut spiral bit on the jig.  The softwood registration bar, when held tightly against athe sides, does a decent job without over cutting the desired width of the channel. I got that tool for $30 from a local builder when he upgraded.  Getting the 90° presentation to the side is a challenge.  My Elmer jig should arrive today but I know there will be things to learn with that setup as well.

This has been a great thread folks. Thank you, all!

Chuck Barnett
425-530-0328

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "Robert O'Brien Guitar Building Forum" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/obrien-forum/LPJs5vBVmgo/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to obrien-forum...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/obrien-forum/db250597-e1f0-47b4-8336-a5c31ccbd9f6n%40googlegroups.com.

[erik.tosten]

Charles

The single router bearing pressed against the side, using the amount of pressure deemed appropriate for good contact, can leave an indented track all the way around the guitar. Two router bearings would distribute the pressure better. On a new build, this is not a big issue because it is easily sanded out, but when rebinding a vintage guitar with a fragile finish that you wouldn't want to sand back to bare wood, it's a nightmare. 

So the next question is, what's the best jig for cutting binding channels on a restoration or repair for a finished guitar?

Erik

[Robbie O'Brien]

Erik,

Unless your bearing is locked up and not spinning, this shouldn’t be a problem.

Robbie

On Sep 25, 2025, at 4:28 PM, erik.tosten <erik....@gmail.com> wrote:

Charles

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Robert O'Brien Guitar Building Forum" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to obrien-forum...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/obrien-forum/b0b59297-6c56-4813-9927-2dd6cc20bd4an%40googlegroups.com.

[erik.tosten]

I'll check that, but I don't think the bearing is seized up. Maybe I'm just pressing against the guitar too hard.

[Fred Brooking]

As a result of acting as an assistant for the SIMSCal acoustic guitar making classes I have had the opportunity to use the Elevate jig, the Luthiertool Hand Held (as linked above) , and the Stewmac and Elmer (which I own) jigs. All are viable options and have advantages / disadvantages. Ultimately I think the question comes down to budget, space considerations (bench and storage) and getting used to the product you ultimate purchase. 

All of them have a learning curve before they become second nature. 

The Luthier Tool Hand held and the Elevate are very similar in the way they set up. The primary difference is the Luthier Tool version is used on a stationary guitar while with the Elevate jig  the jig is held in a vice and the guitar is rotated over the tool. Scary at first but works quite well. Luthier Tool uses 1/4" spiral downcut bits (an advantage) while the Elevate uses a special bit with a replaceable cutter. 

The Stewmac and Elmer jigs (Elmer being the least expensive option) are very similar, They are both space hogs and require cradles a  base or  and storage room for the base /tower combo They also require a special set of binding bits and bearings to match your binding / purfling scheme. The Stewmac cradle supports units are higher quality than the Elmer units but are significantly more expensive, so budget concerns certainly play into your choice. Also a consideration Stewmac warranty is unsurpassed.

My preference in this case is for the LMI binding bit and bearings, over the StewMac (both available at Stewmac) as the LMI has a longer bearing shaft which allows cutting herringbone purfling channels after the binding channel is cut and has the ability, due to the available bearing sizes, to cut a deeper purfling channel than the Stewmac version. THe LMI can cut .230 deep while Stewmac is limited to .210 combined purfling and binding.

If you decide on a tower style jig, a usefull trick I learned from my luthier buddy Marty MacMillan is that blue painters tape is .005 thick and can be used as a shim to make the binding channels smaller by .005 per layer if applied to the guitar. This allows you to fine tune the depth of cut closer than the bearings which are available in .010 incements. A layer of painters tape applied to the sides of your guitar will also ensure that if the bearing stops spinning properly that it wont scar the sides of your instrument while cutting the binding channels. 

Best 

Fred

[Fred Brooking]

Regarding fixed tower style setups such as the Stewmac / Elmer that require a router bit with a lower bearing; a trick that I learned from my luthier friend Marty MacMillan .

Blue painters tape is .005 thick and can be used as a "shim" to manipulate/reduce the depth of cut by applying it to the guitar. It has the added benefit of protect the sides of the guitar from damage while routing if the bearing should stop spinning properly while a cut is being made. It does need to be removed promptly from woods like mahogany but is very useful.

Also when choosing a bit/bearing set the LMI set (avaliable at Stewmac) has a couple of advantages. The longer bearing shaft on the LMI/Whiteside Bit allows you to safely cut purfling channels after the binding channel has been cut. The Stewmac bit is shorter and neccesitates that purfling channels be cut first  as the bearing will ride on the edge of the binding channel ledge which is s little too close for comfort (IMO). 

Also the LMI bearing set allows a .230 deep cut , while the Stewmac bearing limit you to .210 deep. If you are interested in Purflex or other types of wider decorative elements the LMI set is not as limiting.

The major disadvantage to the tower type setups is that they are space hogs, they require cradles and bases and dont store easily; so if you have a limited storage space an Elevate Jig or the Luthier Tool may be a better choice. 

The Elevate and Luthier Tools hand held use very similar mechanisms for adjusting the cut and indexing off the guitar. The Elevate uses a special cutter with a removable head while the Luthier Tool unit employs 1/4" downcut spiral bits which are easily and inexpensively replaced. Neither requires much more storage space than a trim router with a plunge base and both do the job well. 

The primary difference is in operation.  Do you feel more comfortable moving a router or moving the guitar?

Best

Fred

On Tuesday, September 23, 2025 at 9:22:02 AM UTC-7 Chuck_Barnett wrote:

[Robert Owens]

We had this conversation a couple of years ago, and I weighed in at that time with my opinion & experience, so I will repeat some of that here, plus an update. Basically, I am a new builder—just getting into it in my mid-60s—and doing a little more of it upon retiring a couple of years ago. I have some basic woodworking experience (but not a ton), and IMHO, the Elevate jig is the best of all options. As a newbie, it seems to me that it's the modern evolution of the process—from hand-cutting, to the tower & cradle method, and finally to this (although "this" is an updated version of what actually goes back decades to Larrivee, as mentioned by someone above!). I have built one classical from scratch, two StewMac kits (a dreadnought and a 000), a 00 from scratch, and most recently, this summer I completed my first OM at Sergei de Jonge's 5-week lutherie course in Canada. So far, for me, with all five of my first builds, the Elevate jig (or the Canadian Luthier Supply version, which I used at Sergei's) have been quick, easy, and darn near foolproof. Granted, I've never used the StewMac or LMI jigs, but I did compare them price-wise (disclaimer - I purchased my Elevate jig 3 years ago, when they were about $100 cheaper!), and I considered how much bench/storage space they take up, and the extra work of changing bearings back & forth, taking the instrument in & out of the cradle, measuring and remeasuring, etc., and I decided to go with the Elevate jig. I'm very glad that I did. I have found it very easy to use, and I have gotten PERFECT results every time, even as a newbie. As long as you follow the advice in Elevate's own video, and 2-3 other helpful videos on YouTube, you'll do fine. The set-up for each cut is very quick, and is ingenious in terms of just inserting your binding/purfling material into the jig and setting it from that (not even any measuring, or math!...what!?). Also, very nice to be able to just quickly run a scrap piece of wood through it, then hold your binding material up to it to make sure it's the right fit, with the extra amount sticking up that you need, etc. (again, no measuring!). Also, and very important, as mentioned above, is the fact that with the Elevate jig you are registering from the side of the guitar, rather than the top or the back, which seems to me is a game-changer...no more worries about angle of cut. Sure, it was a little nerve-racking at first, but as long as you go slow (and keep the body in contact with both points on the "dumbbell") you'll do great. It's also nice to just keep it set up on my bench in an extra vise I have...very small footprint, and out of the way. As a rank beginner, it was a great help to simplify the process, and to get great results on my very first builds. And while the Canadian Luthier Supply version (the original!) that I used this summer in Sergei's course was equally effective and easy to use, it is definitely fussier than the Elevate version, due to having to change out the "dumbbell" for each different depth/thickness of cut (and add a piece of tape for more precision, etc.). 

All the above being said, of course I get it when builders are used to and comfortable with the tower & cradle (or handheld) methods, but again, as a newbie I am sure glad I found the Elevate version. 

(And no, I don't work for Elevate, or get paid for this endorsement.)

😊

[johnc.marple]

@brock Do you have the part numbers of the LMI bearing sets?