I have provided the youtube link from 'Woodgear', (see also attachment). You should now be able to find the information for the pantograph design.drawing.
For my inlay design it required using small size router bits in my 'DremeI that I purchased from 'StewMac'. From my experience I found it a little easier cutting timber inlays using a 1/32" down cut bit. However, when cutting pearl slabs you need to be very careful, go slow and only cut in a small amount of depth change for each pass, otherwise you are likely to easily break the router bit. For the pearl I used the Stewmac Taper router bit, item #1180. Another important issue is the pantograph template guide pin size for fine detail work. It needs to be around the diameter size of the router bit to achieve an accurate result. I had my template guide pin machined in stainless steel. The tracing pin size is 0.9mm. A ;larger size would be ok for an inlay design that does not have any fine angle points. When cutting both the pocket and the insert alway check the insert fit with the pocket. When cutting the pocket when you think it is complete carefully go around the perimeter edge again using the router pantograph. Sometimes it may also be necessary to clean up the pocket base with a very small carving chisel tool.
The pantograph can be set up for use in both half and one third size. I found using the 2:1 ratio worked the best. Therefore, your guide template needs to be twice the size of your inlay design. I found a free trial CAD programme to draw my guide templates in both 2D and 3D format. For my local laser cutting service they only required the 2D DWG files to make the perspex templates that were made out of two 3mm thick perspex panels glued together. The alternative would be to use a 3D file version and use a 6mm thick perspex slab to laser cut the template. ( I did try making my own guide templates out of perspex, however, I was not able to perfectly cut out a matching pocket and insert template).
After sorting out what works best the key is to go slowly in small cut depths and you will not break router bits. Now I have more experience in using this router jig I now have consistent results with virtually no gaps in my inlays.
Regards
Wayne