Help! Replaced the washer, tap still leaks
Sue Bilstein
The handbasin tap, over the last month, has gone from dripping to
running. I finally got round to replacing the washer, using
instructions from the net - e.g. this, which shows a tap very much
like mine:
http://www.tauranga.govt.nz/water/waterline-advisory-service/house/fix-a-leaking-tap.aspx
I found that the bottom washer was not in very bad shape, but I
replaced it anyway. I noticed that the shaft that washer sits on
rotates within the over-all assembly - I don't know if that is
expected.
I also replaced the red fibre washer under the bronze hex nut at the
top of the assembly, though I worked out when I was putting it back
together that that doesn't affect leaking through the tap spout, but
rather leaking through the body of the tap.
Anyway, when I turned the mains back on, it still runs just as badly
as ever.
Does anyone know what the problem could be?
Roger_Nickel
If the tap has been dripping for a while then the seat against which the
washer seals will probably be eroded and need refacing. You can buy a
fancy tool to do this or you can improvise with a length of dowel with
some wet-and-dry abrasive paper pinned to the end. The mounting shaft for
the washer is supposed to rotate so that the washer won't be ground
against the seat as the tap closes.
Kerry
> Once again I come to the gurus of nz.general for help.
>
> The handbasin tap, over the last month, has gone from dripping to
> running. I finally got round to replacing the washer, using
> instructions from the net - e.g. this, which shows a tap very much
> like mine:
>
>
> I found that the bottom washer was not in very bad shape, but I
> replaced it anyway. I noticed that the shaft that washer sits on
> rotates within the over-all assembly - I don't know if that is
> expected.
>
> I also replaced the red fibre washer under the bronze hex nut at the
> top of the assembly, though I worked out when I was putting it back
> together that that doesn't affect leaking through the tap spout, but
> rather leaking through the body of the tap.
>
> Anyway, when I turned the mains back on, it still runs just as badly
> as ever.
>
> Does anyone know what the problem could be?
Sounds like it needs reseating, the water has worn away a little
hollow in the brass. You can a grinder/reseating tool to do this,
did it last week to my tap that leaked for a year and voila!
Mind you I didnt do it, got someone else to :-)
Kerry
>
> The handbasin tap, over the last month, has gone from dripping to
> running. I finally got round to replacing the washer, using
> instructions from the net - e.g. this, which shows a tap very much
> like mine:
>
>
> I found that the bottom washer was not in very bad shape, but I
> replaced it anyway. I noticed that the shaft that washer sits on
> rotates within the over-all assembly - I don't know if that is
> expected.
>
> I also replaced the red fibre washer under the bronze hex nut at the
> top of the assembly, though I worked out when I was putting it back
> together that that doesn't affect leaking through the tap spout, but
> rather leaking through the body of the tap.
>
> Anyway, when I turned the mains back on, it still runs just as badly
> as ever.
>
> Does anyone know what the problem could be?
http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-replace-a-tap-washer
Done this before with the steel wool. Can buy a reseating tool tho
for the purpose
Fred
"Sue Bilstein" <sue.bi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:eibr455b4a20gbt22...@4ax.com...
Bound to be the seat which you can recut, or fit an insert. You could hire
some gear from your local hire place, and they'll show you how to use it.
Enkidu
http://diydata.com/problem/taps/washer_replace.php
The 'washer seat' is a sort of rim to the up pipe that brings the water
(in blue). The washer in the top bit of the tap, the bit that you
replaced has to fit snugly against the rim. If the rim is damaged or
eroded away water will run past the washer. It is possible to get a tool
to abrade the rim back but you must get it level, which can be
difficult. One problem with old taps is that the jumper which holds the
washer becomes loose and doesn't sit on the seat properly. The only
solution to that is to replace the tap.
Cheers,
Cliff
--
The Internet is interesting in that although the nicknames may change,
the same old personalities show through.
Matty F
That video missed the bit where you need to hold the tap base very
firmly with a tool, otherwise you can break a handbasin. I use a very
large Crescent to hold the tap base.
If reseating tool is not available there is a kind of tap washer that
looks like a hemisphere rather than flat. It will take up any
irregularities in the seat. However reseating is best.
Willy Nilly
>Anyway, when I turned the mains back on, it still runs just as badly
>as ever. Does anyone know what the problem could be?
Metal taps have an expected life of 30-40 years, at which point the
metal housing itself gets worn and allows water to seep through. If
your tap dates from the '70s, be prepared to get another one.
Conversely, an oversized washer might get you through, but it may not
be worth the short time span involved.
Just make sure that the plumber does not walk off with the old fitting
when he replaces it. They like to do that, then re-line the interior,
and sell it onwards for a free profit.
willy
Sue Bilstein
wrote:
>Sue Bilstein wrote:
...
>>
>> Anyway, when I turned the mains back on, it still runs just as badly
>> as ever.
>>
>> Does anyone know what the problem could be?
> >
>That's not a good diagram. Try this one:
>
>http://diydata.com/problem/taps/washer_replace.php
>
>The 'washer seat' is a sort of rim to the up pipe that brings the water
>(in blue). The washer in the top bit of the tap, the bit that you
>replaced has to fit snugly against the rim. If the rim is damaged or
>eroded away water will run past the washer. It is possible to get a tool
>to abrade the rim back but you must get it level, which can be
>difficult. One problem with old taps is that the jumper which holds the
>washer becomes loose and doesn't sit on the seat properly. The only
>solution to that is to replace the tap.
>
Thanks everyone. I'll take it apart again and look carefully at the
jumper, the washer and the seat. If the seat needs grinding, I'll
probably leave it and let the landlord take care of it.
Geopelia
"Willy Nilly" <willy...@qwert.com> wrote in message
news:4a4dc141...@freenews.netfront.net...
Is it really worth fiddling about with the tap instead of getting a plumber
to do it?
Matty F
> Is it really worth fiddling about with the tap instead of getting a plumber
> to do it?
A plumber may charge $100 or so, compared with a d-i-y with a $1 pack
of tap washers.
The water pressure here was so high I regularly had to change tap
washers. I put a pressure reducing valve in my main water pipe and
have had no problems since.
thingy
>
> The handbasin tap, over the last month, has gone from dripping to
> running. I finally got round to replacing the washer, using
> instructions from the net - e.g. this, which shows a tap very much
> like mine:
>
>
> I found that the bottom washer was not in very bad shape, but I
> replaced it anyway. I noticed that the shaft that washer sits on
> rotates within the over-all assembly - I don't know if that is
> expected.
>
> I also replaced the red fibre washer under the bronze hex nut at the
> top of the assembly, though I worked out when I was putting it back
> together that that doesn't affect leaking through the tap spout, but
> rather leaking through the body of the tap.
>
> Anyway, when I turned the mains back on, it still runs just as badly
> as ever.
>
> Does anyone know what the problem could be?
Yes, if you dont replace the washer soon enough the water leaking past
wears away the tap body at whats known as the "seat" (as its at high
velocity)...it wears a "canyon"....from your description that is what
has happened...its probably now too late to save the tap....so you
will need a new one....
If you take it apart again and shine a torch down the hole you will
probably see a black "line" across the seat...you can get a tool to
reface it, but only if its not too bad....otherwise it wont work for
long or at all...the tool is usually $40~50 ish, and a new tap about
the same....hardly worth it...IMHO...by this stage the tap is usually
that old that I dont bother....
The other possibility is the "canyon" has been worn into the tap
washer jumper....in which case you can get a new "guts"...but again
thats $20~30....
regards
Thing
thingy
The other possibility is you used the wrong washer....this is usually
indicated by colour blue is high (mains) pressure....black or brown is
tank pressure....
regards
Thing
A _L_ P
>>
>
> Thanks everyone. I'll take it apart again and look carefully at the
> jumper, the washer and the seat. If the seat needs grinding, I'll
> probably leave it and let the landlord take care of it.
Landlord? WTF are you fussing about with it for? It's the landlord's
responsibility. If s/he doesn't take care of it in a reasonable time
ring tenancy services, you'll be allowed to call a tradesman yourself at
the landlord's expense. OTOH if you cause any damage while fixing it
that'll be charged against your bond.
A L P
EMB
> The other possibility is you used the wrong washer....this is usually
> indicated by colour blue is high (mains) pressure....black or brown is
> tank pressure....
Cite? I think you're wrong but google thus far has proven precisely
nothing.
Sue Bilstein
wrote:
>Sue Bilstein wrote:
>
>>>
>>
>> Thanks everyone. I'll take it apart again and look carefully at the
>> jumper, the washer and the seat. If the seat needs grinding, I'll
>> probably leave it and let the landlord take care of it.
>
>Landlord? WTF are you fussing about with it for?
As a training exercise, basically.
dod...@gmail.com
You said black washers are for tank pressure? that could be part of the problem, as I know he put a black one in there and we are on mains. I just hope the bloody tap isn't permanently damaged now from us exerting extra pressure on it to try and turn it off :(
Dodd Derry
> On Friday, 3 July 2009 19:14:04 UTC+12, Sue Bilstein wrote:
>
>> The handbasin tap, over the last month, has gone from dripping to
>
>
> [snipped advice given 7.5 years later]
What is it with these Google Groupers trying to awaken long-dead
threads from 7.5 years ago?
Sue Bilstein hasn't even posted in here for 4.5 years.