Cutting Acrylic
Bryon Connolly
I'm new to physical computing and building my first robot. Some parts are made from 1/2 clear acrylic. I've read tons of online guides about the best method of cutting it, and frankly just using my $19 jigsaw then sandpaper then a lighter has given the best results. Pretty good, but not great. So i'm just curious if anyone with experience cutting acrylic has any good tips. I hear a laser is best, but I wouldn't know where to go that can cut 1/2 inch. Maybe a hot knife?
Dirk Swart
My experiences are similar to yours - a jigsaw works well. I use a blade where the teeth have little or no set, and make sure the blade has no back/forward motion - just up and down. Results are extremely smooth, and I don't sand afterwards. I've never tried a lighter. Most of the time I use a bit of wood as a fence.
For drilling, a Forstner bit works well, and gives consistent and accurate results, but can get hot, so slow is good. I do it in a drill press, and have never tried freehand.
I'm new to physical computing and building my first robot. Some parts are made from 1/2 clear acrylic. I've read tons of online guides about the best method of cutting it, and frankly just using my $19 jigsaw then sandpaper then a lighter has given the best results. Pretty good, but not great. So i'm just curious if anyone with experience cutting acrylic has any good tips. I hear a laser is best, but I wouldn't know where to go that can cut 1/2 inch. Maybe a hot knife?
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Michael Shiloh
of like the rolling knife used to score glass? I can't recall if it's
for acrylic or another plastic. I've never used it, just recall seeing
it on the rack.
Might check out the Tap Plastics website. IIRC they have a ton of info
on their website. If they don't, give them a call.
Michael
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CrazyCarl
I used a simple table saw ... I didnt need any really clean finishes
on the ends though
I CAN tell you that if you're bending it you can get a very nice bend
with slowly heating the acrylic ( if it bubbles pull the heat gun
back )
and when you're setting the bend a spray bottle will go a long way
( colder side contracts )
so spray just a little on whatever side of the bend needs to be
contracted
-Carl
feck...@earthlink.net
Hello Bryon,
I was glancing at the thread for your question and noticed a reply about bending acrylic and bubbling. If you're bending acrylic you should be aware that acrylic to some degree absorbs water, and the water content "boils out" as the acrylic is heated, thus the bubbles. When bending, it is advisable to dry the acrylic first by putting it in a warming oven until the water is driven off. The thicker the acrylic the longer it has to be pre-heated. Lots of web sites online with info about this, especially manufacturer sites. But, bending 1/2" with a heat gun? Tough!
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Bryon Connolly
Sent: Sep 11, 2011 6:40 PM
To: "nycresistormi...@googlegroups.com"
Subject: [NYCR:Microcontrollers] Cutting Acrylic
I'm new to physical computing and building my first robot. Some parts are made from 1/2 clear acrylic. I've read tons of online guides about the best method of cutting it, and frankly just using my $19 jigsaw then sandpaper then a lighter has given the best results. Pretty good, but not great. So i'm just curious if anyone with experience cutting acrylic has any good tips. I hear a laser is best, but I wouldn't know where to go that can cut 1/2 inch. Maybe a hot knife?
--
Alpay Kasal
bending acrylic that thick might do well with a jig of some sort... if you
give it a wooden skeleton to bend against, you can take it nice and slow and get
the perfect bend. if the bend calls for it, maybe even some spring loaded
pressure in there so all you have to do is concentrate on the heat gun. i never
tried 1/2", good luck.
Alpay Kasal
Engineer
http://Supertou.ch
twitter: @alpaykasal
blog: http://blog.LitStudios.com
William Macfarlane
it like glass.
I've had mixed success with this tool, though. When it works it works
really well, but I haven't gotten consistent at making it work.
I've ended up using a band saw for most of my acrylic cutting needs.
Get a thin, fine-toothed blade and with practice you can cut *very*
accurately.
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Allan Peda
Patience is the key here, maybe making multiple low passes each 1/8 or 1/4 inch deeper.
Tymm Twillman
there are scoring tools, though i wouldn't recommend for thick acrylic -- not quite the same as glass (e.g. you actually need to make a significant score with acrylic to weaken it enough for a relatively straight break, rather than just scoring the surface).
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Matthew Cox
Sand the cut edge and then flame polish with a propane torch.
To bend 1/2 will be very hard. You would need a mold and a pizza oven to slump it. Up to a 1/4" I use an acrylic bender.
Or you can have Grewe plastics in NJ do it and save some time and frustration.
Matt
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Dan Lavin
I have had problems with shattering on smaller thicknesses when using a circular saw and a normal wood blade. If you go that route, try sandwiching the acrylic between layers of wood.
On 9/12/2011 6:46 PM, Matthew Cox wrote:
The scoring tool only works up to 1/8" after that you need a table/circlular saw or router. For a 1/2" I would make 2 or 3 passes to keep it clean and save your blade. Jigsaws are to slow and gum up but if you need to use a jigsaw or bandsaw use water in a spray bottle to cool the plastic.
Sand the cut edge and then flame polish with a propane torch.
To bend 1/2 will be very hard. You would need a mold and a pizza oven to slump it. Up to a 1/4" I use an acrylic bender.
Or you can have Grewe plastics in NJ do it and save some time and frustration.
Matt
On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 1:43 PM, Tymm Twillman <tymm...@gmail.com> wrote:
There are special blades for circular saws... and bandsaws with fine bladed teeth work pretty well from my experience, depending on the size of the sheet you're working with.
there are scoring tools, though i wouldn't recommend for thick acrylic -- not quite the same as glass (e.g.. you actually need to make a significant score with acrylic to weaken it enough for a relatively straight break, rather than just scoring the surface).
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Bryon Connolly
One more question that I'll ask here (instead of flooding the forums). I'm new to motorization as well, but have studied it pretty extensively the last couple months and have a decent handle on things. What I'm wondering is, anyone have a best cost effective suggestion for drive motors? Some general details of the robot are:
- two 8 inch lawnmower wheels - will have independent motors for steering (caster in the back)
- probably will be about 35 pounds (A bit overly ambitious for a first robot...but so far so good)
- will already have 12V supply available (for a linear actuator), but I can accommodate.
- requires somewhat accurate control, but doesn't need speed (at 3-1/2 feet tall I won't be racing around).
I've looked into a variety of options including bidirectional winch motors, wheelchair motors (lost that ebay battle), large steppers (I've been using steppers for other things and am comfortable with their control), starters (very cheap but I guess they are less efficient). I don't need all the details and limitations about types, I have been reading up, I'm just curious if after all is said and done there's a specific choice that stands out overall.
george magiros
I mentioned it off line but I have to say it again because its such a cool store. Down on church st near canal. They have everything plastic including plastic cutters, plastic glue, plastic drill bits, paper books on cutting plastic plus they will do the cutting for you for a fee. Basicly TAP but local. So shop local and be careful about the plastic fumes.
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