Fwd: NANACHA ANGATHA

[warrierbalram]

--- In nanga...@yahoogroups.com, "BENJAMIN DESOUZA"
<benji_india@h...> wrote:
NANACHA ANGATHA
20,21 DEC 2003
CLIMBING TEAM – 6 (SHARAD, KAVITA, DARAYUS, PIRAN, NOVA, BENJI)
MEMBERS SUMMITTED – 2 (NOVA, BENJI)
FIRST MEMBER SUMMIT AT 5:55 PM. 21 DEC 2003
SECOND MEMBER SUMMIT AT 6.29 PM. 21 DEC 2003

I think we have been talking about NA for quiet while now. When we
reached
there, the first impression I got was of DN, in fact it is an exact
simulation of DN. The traverse to reach the start of the climb is not as
long as the one at DN, but it is just as exposed. Nova had fixed a
rope for
about 10 feet at one point. The climb however is overhanging/ vertical
right
from the beginning. A look at the prospective climbing route from the
opposite hill was enough for me to ensure that I did a big and small job
before I attempted the route.

We did the right most route (which is supposed to be chain bolted). The
first pitch (100 ft) is overhanging for about 50ft, as a result of
which the
belayer can subsequently not see the climber. The first ledge is large
enough for 2 people to keep both feet on it (although at varied
locations.
This is where we reached during the close of climbing time on sat 20
dec. I
was so exhausted/scared on reaching the ledge that I took almost one
hour to
build an anchor to rappel from. One bolt was put at the base anchor.

The next day our troubles multiplied. We had carried only one Jummar..
The
strongest of the lot, Nova was the first to ascend to first ledge, the
perils of jummaring (of course with a yoyo belay) were noted. I was
amazed
at the difference in the way a yoyo feels at FC and here. Some minor
issues
of rope work happened which delayed the climb to second pitch. On the
way to
second ledge I came across an abandoned (luckily) eagles nest. There were
about 4 to 5 holes which are the only places I could think which could
accommodate the so called poisonous snakes, so I really strained my
vision
to look thru them before I put my fingers which were taped at two
points (on
each finger) in them, Ganesh had suggested that I wear sufficient
clothing
so that only snakes with real large fangs could get to me. This I had
done
mainly because this climbing route is always in the shade and because
of the
breeze it becomes very cold. So I was wearing one full sleeve tshirt one
short sleeve tshirt and a flannel pullover. The second ledge can
accommodate
one climber in sitting position and one in standing. I must have spent 2
hours here, during which Piran had climbed to the 1st ledge, cleaning the
route and getting 2 bottles of electral water. He then gracefully rappled
off, all the equipment piran had got with him was pulled by me from 1st
ledge to 2nd ledge by the god sent system of all lead climbers
climbing with
equip. supply rope. The only problem here was since our equip supply rope
was not long enough , I would suddenly find Nova saying that he
cannot let
go of the rope as it would go out of his hand, at this I told him to
attach
my 200 ft rope (which we had earlier used for yoyo belay from bottom)
at the
end. After getting the equipment I managed to drop one bottle which
was 25%
filled with electral water into the valley. Luckily the full bottle, I
had
the presence of mind of stacking away carefully, and used the same to
stay
alive, since I had not had anything since 9.00 am. I was looking
around and
remembered about my fiction on NA, here I could see an eagle, only it was
not cruising anywhere near me, but far below.

By the time nova came to 2nd ledge it was 4:50 pm. I could hear Piran
frantically shouting from the opp. Hill that there was at least 40% of
the
climb balance and so it was advisable that we should call off the
climb and
rappel off by joining the two 60mt ropes we had with us. I was stunned
(wondering is it bad planning? Bad coordination? Or just fate?) Nova
tried
to coax me into seeing Piran's point of view by saying "sorry – but we
can
always try it again". I must have spent five minutes in silence, then I
shouted to Piran on the opp hill that I would like to climb up the
vertical
rock patch (about 15 feet) and have a look at the route above before I
decide to rappel off, Piran reluctantly agreed, Nova said that I
should go
further only if the route ahead was "real easy" he said "I mean real
easy".
Promising him I would, I set off, loaded with QDs and the equip. supply
rope, I realized that the route ahead was not very long at least till
something looking like a huge ledge, there was one drawback however there
were no bolts and because of the scree, flaky rocks and shortage of
time I
had to free the entire 20 or odd feet (I looked from the corner of my
eyes
at Piran, he said nothing). I tried to pacify nova by telling him that
the
ledge ahead looked big enough for us to sit in our sleeping bags (which
could be lowered from top since the summit was only about 50ft away
from the
ledge) and sleep during the night. Nova was quiet thrilled with the idea.

After what seemed an eternity I reached the ledge (the 3rd ledge). It was
big enough for the two of us to actually sit/sleep with legs kept
straight.
The bolts here seemed to be put only a few days ago. I immediately
anchored
and pulled nova up. I could see the excitement in his face, so I told
him to
lead the last pitch. By leaning out I could see Piran above shouting
at us
to hurry up. Thus Nova summitted. This is how it ended.

We wish to thank everyone who had lent us their personal equipment for
the
climb including Fulton, Vijay, Ganesh, Balram and Ramu, we also wish to
thank in a big way fulton, ganesh and Charu for letting us have the roost
keys to take any equipment needed.

Points to note
The lead climbers should not be given the responsibility of managing
logistics (remember the story of the single jummar)
A climbing team could do with more support, I noticed Piran was
equally if
not more exhausted than the climbers.
I feel on a given day (with proper coordination) no more than 4
climbers can
summit. Unless of course 2 or 3 are willing to spend the night at 3rd
ledge

So he I am signing out with the facts of the climb on NANACHA ANGATHA
Best regards
Benji

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