Fwd: Slowing The Pump Clock

[warrierbalram]

--- In nanga...@yahoogroups.com, JAY SHETH <jls2085573@y...> wrote:
this is for all who like to boost thier stamina on the wall climbing.

Slowing the pump clock: three strategies to prevent the pump


Training to get stronger is a good thing. Climbing in ways that
conserve energy and enable rapid recovery is a smart thing!
While both of these strategies will improve your climbing performance,
too many climbers obsess about getting stronger, while not recognizing
the value of optimizing their use of strength and accelerating their
recovery. It's a fact that all the best climbers are strong — yet not
every strong climber rises to the top. The difference often lies in
the subtleties: economy of movement, preventing the pump, and
maximizing recovery while climbing. The following three strategies do
just this. Use them, and you'll find the pump clock ticking slower,
regardless of your current strength or ability.
Climb with more economy. Most climbers get poor fuel economy when
climbing near their limit. Learning to climb more efficiently requires
a conscious effort, so get a partner and make a game out of it. The
following are energy-conserving techniques to practice on moderate
routes or in the gym:
• Predetermine the rest positions on a route and only chalk up and
rest there. Climb briskly from one rest to the next.

• Limit your time on any given hold to five seconds or less, except
for rest positions. Climb past the smallest, pumpy holds as fast as
possible.

• Vary your grip position whenever possible. Alternate between crimps,
open hands, thumb locks, pinches, and pocket grips as often as the
rock allows. Don't miss a chance to sink a hand jam or finger lock —
these are great energy-saving grips that many face climbers miss.

Flex your fingers and wrist between grips. Recovering on a route is
something most climbers just let happen. This is a mistake — instead,
take a proactive role in the recovery process. Open and close your
fingers or flex your wrist between each grip. Visualize flicking water
off your fingers or hand as you reach for the next hold — that's the
motion you are after. This spurs blood flow through the forearm
muscles — which actually stops during times of maximum gripping. The
aggregate effect of doing this between every grip will significantly
reduce your accumulated pump.
Use the G-Tox to speed recovery at rests. The "dangling arm shakeout"
is the technique universally used to foster pump recovery. It is not,
however, the best technique. A more effective method uses gravity to
your advantage; hence, I call it the "G-Tox". Alternate the position
of your resting arm between the normal dangling position and an
above-your-head position. For example, gently wiggle your arm in the
normal by-the-side rest position for five seconds, then raise it to a
half-bent position above your shoulder and shake it gently for five
seconds. Repeat this cycle as often as needed — or for as long as you
can hang out at the rest!
The pump sensation you feel in the forearms is largely the result of
accumulated lactic acid and restricted blood flow. While the
dangling-arm shakeout allows good blood flow into the forearm, it
doesn't help the flow of "old blood" out of the forearm, due to the
arm's position below your heart. The result is a traffic jam of sorts,
which perpetuates the pump and slows recovery. (Have you ever noticed
how the pump often increases as you begin the shakeout process with
your arm by your side?) The G-Tox technique makes gravity your ally by
aiding venous return to the heart. This enhances the removal of lactic
acid and speeds recovery. The effects of this technique are
unmistakable — you will literally feel your pump "drained" as you
elevate your arm. Use the G-Tox at all your mid-climb shakeouts by
deliberately alternating the position of your resting arm, between
raise-hand and dangling position, every five to ten seconds.

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