telbaila village side route
0 views
Skip to first unread message
Balram Warrier
May 2, 2005, 2:08:05 PM5/2/05
to nptechies
telbaila village side route
2 pitches 100 ft + 80ft
summitted on9 nov 2003 at 2:11pm
hi guys this is to inform you that the above route has
been completed on the third attempt. the climbers were
(i only know their first names) Kaivalya, Rajan,
Surendra (of Sahayagiri Trekkers) and Me (this
apparently was the entire climbing team also) Every
body summitted.
This was one of those days when I was tested to the
limits, since I had to lead the entire route , mainly
because Kaivalya the only other experienced climber
encountered a traumatic situation when the knot of the
tape of his hand jumar opened up half way when
jumaring to the first ledge, luckily his foot jumar
was because of some wierd technique anchored to his
harness as well, he recovered very well from the
trauma but got a nasty rope burn on his right palm ,
having to reach up to get the hand jumar. of course
when he reached the ledge he humurously told me in
marathi "today is the day when there would have been a
garland on my photograph"
A few things I have learnt on this inter club climbing
team, which I must share
Firstly the length of rope ends and tape ends (after
the knot) should be at least be a least 6 to 8 cms (as
mentioned in most manuals)
We must invest in a long 300ft or so 8 mm rope which
here was used as "supply rope", which is attached to
the lead climber. this is a life line in case the
climber runs out of equipment or needs something
desperately during the climb. the reason the rope is
to be long is so that one end of it still remains with
the man supplying the stuff after the climber as
pulled the rope to get the provision. I had to call
for more equipment when doing the 2nd pitch.
All climbers should have always attached to their
harness a short sling with two crabs attached at
varring lengths, (they call it a short and long
anchor) so that if he has to anchor himself
desperately on anticipating a fall he does not have to
start thinking of making a self anchor.
Food should not be carried in the form of oil, rice,
vegetables etc, these are too bulky and add to the
weight, also they need a dedicated cook and helpers to
get anything to eat. what I ate was something called
dehydrated veg biryani and chana masala and dal
makhani, all three in the uncooked form occupied space
the size of my chalk bag, the biryani pack had to be
opened and emptied in the cooker with water and
cooked (3 whistles) and it was dinner for 4 people.
the chana masala pack had to be put in boiling water
(without opening the pack) and after a while you cut
open the pack and put it in your plate to eat, they
told me that this stuff was made in India by a co.
called "tastee" or something and the biryani pack cost
Rs35/- only. they said it would be available at any
big shopping mall.they also said that I should not get
the stuff made by "anapurna" as that taste is wierd.
The 2nd pitch of 80 ft is bolted (although not a close
chain) I would consider only 3 bolts to be in good
condition, so ensure that you do not take a fall on
that route, about 25% of the top route is overhanging.
The anhors at summit are 1 hanger, 1 new(shining) bolt
and one old bolt. no new bolts were put on the route.
The last thing I must mention is this "NEVER NEVER
NEVER attempt to go to the telbails climbs on 100cc
bikes with equipment and 2 guys on a bike, it is a
nightmare.
All the equipment for the climb (other than my 10
Quick draws) was supplied by Rajesh Gadgil and
sahayagiri club.
I think the seniors of our club should put in a word
with the senior management of the E&A to change their
policy of "not giving the clubs equiment for private
climbs"
Well I think I have said enough to think about, also
our younger boys will now know that the climbing
season has begun....
best regards
benji
________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! India Matrimony: Find your life partner online
Go to: http://yahoo.shaadi.com/india-matrimony
2 pitches 100 ft + 80ft
summitted on9 nov 2003 at 2:11pm
hi guys this is to inform you that the above route has
been completed on the third attempt. the climbers were
(i only know their first names) Kaivalya, Rajan,
Surendra (of Sahayagiri Trekkers) and Me (this
apparently was the entire climbing team also) Every
body summitted.
This was one of those days when I was tested to the
limits, since I had to lead the entire route , mainly
because Kaivalya the only other experienced climber
encountered a traumatic situation when the knot of the
tape of his hand jumar opened up half way when
jumaring to the first ledge, luckily his foot jumar
was because of some wierd technique anchored to his
harness as well, he recovered very well from the
trauma but got a nasty rope burn on his right palm ,
having to reach up to get the hand jumar. of course
when he reached the ledge he humurously told me in
marathi "today is the day when there would have been a
garland on my photograph"
A few things I have learnt on this inter club climbing
team, which I must share
Firstly the length of rope ends and tape ends (after
the knot) should be at least be a least 6 to 8 cms (as
mentioned in most manuals)
We must invest in a long 300ft or so 8 mm rope which
here was used as "supply rope", which is attached to
the lead climber. this is a life line in case the
climber runs out of equipment or needs something
desperately during the climb. the reason the rope is
to be long is so that one end of it still remains with
the man supplying the stuff after the climber as
pulled the rope to get the provision. I had to call
for more equipment when doing the 2nd pitch.
All climbers should have always attached to their
harness a short sling with two crabs attached at
varring lengths, (they call it a short and long
anchor) so that if he has to anchor himself
desperately on anticipating a fall he does not have to
start thinking of making a self anchor.
Food should not be carried in the form of oil, rice,
vegetables etc, these are too bulky and add to the
weight, also they need a dedicated cook and helpers to
get anything to eat. what I ate was something called
dehydrated veg biryani and chana masala and dal
makhani, all three in the uncooked form occupied space
the size of my chalk bag, the biryani pack had to be
opened and emptied in the cooker with water and
cooked (3 whistles) and it was dinner for 4 people.
the chana masala pack had to be put in boiling water
(without opening the pack) and after a while you cut
open the pack and put it in your plate to eat, they
told me that this stuff was made in India by a co.
called "tastee" or something and the biryani pack cost
Rs35/- only. they said it would be available at any
big shopping mall.they also said that I should not get
the stuff made by "anapurna" as that taste is wierd.
The 2nd pitch of 80 ft is bolted (although not a close
chain) I would consider only 3 bolts to be in good
condition, so ensure that you do not take a fall on
that route, about 25% of the top route is overhanging.
The anhors at summit are 1 hanger, 1 new(shining) bolt
and one old bolt. no new bolts were put on the route.
The last thing I must mention is this "NEVER NEVER
NEVER attempt to go to the telbails climbs on 100cc
bikes with equipment and 2 guys on a bike, it is a
nightmare.
All the equipment for the climb (other than my 10
Quick draws) was supplied by Rajesh Gadgil and
sahayagiri club.
I think the seniors of our club should put in a word
with the senior management of the E&A to change their
policy of "not giving the clubs equiment for private
climbs"
Well I think I have said enough to think about, also
our younger boys will now know that the climbing
season has begun....
best regards
benji
________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! India Matrimony: Find your life partner online
Go to: http://yahoo.shaadi.com/india-matrimony
warrierbalram
May 2, 2005, 2:09:20 PM5/2/05
to npte...@googlegroups.com
--- In nanga...@yahoogroups.com, "C.M Jadhav" <chamrila@v...> wrote:
Ganesh i don't think u anchor foot jumar to ur harness. If u do that it
limits ur movements. Only ensure that tape connecting jumar and foot-rest
passes thro the carabiner on the harness. Any other views?
Charu
-------Original Message-------
From: nanga...@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 12:27:06
To: nanga...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [nangaparbat] telbaila village side route
Way to go, Benji!! Good show!!
As for the foot jumar, i feel it HAS to be anchored to the harness. The
near-accident that you describe only underscores this.
regards
ganesh
Are you an Elvis fan? Want to visit Heartbreak Hotel? Here's how you
can win
a trip!
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Do you Yahoo!?
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
--- End forwarded message ---
Ganesh i don't think u anchor foot jumar to ur harness. If u do that it
limits ur movements. Only ensure that tape connecting jumar and foot-rest
passes thro the carabiner on the harness. Any other views?
Charu
-------Original Message-------
From: nanga...@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 12:27:06
To: nanga...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [nangaparbat] telbaila village side route
Way to go, Benji!! Good show!!
As for the foot jumar, i feel it HAS to be anchored to the harness. The
near-accident that you describe only underscores this.
regards
ganesh
can win
a trip!
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Do you Yahoo!?
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
--- End forwarded message ---
warrierbalram
May 2, 2005, 2:10:51 PM5/2/05
to npte...@googlegroups.com
--- In nanga...@yahoogroups.com, Ganesh Rajgopalan
<g_rajgopalan@y...> wrote:
Charu, if i haven't understood what you say, pls correct me. But when
you just pass the tape connecting the jumar and foot-rest through the
carabiner on the harness (and haven't tied a knot on the carabiner),
there is nothing that holds the climber on the rope if his hand jumar
fails (as Benji described). I agree, too much of tying in might limit
the climber's movement, but not tying in enough might just limit him
permanently!!!
ganesh
"C.M Jadhav" <chamrila@v...> wrote:
FLAVOR00-NONE-0000-0000-000000000000;Ganesh i don't think u anchor
---------------------------------
IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
<g_rajgopalan@y...> wrote:
Charu, if i haven't understood what you say, pls correct me. But when
you just pass the tape connecting the jumar and foot-rest through the
carabiner on the harness (and haven't tied a knot on the carabiner),
there is nothing that holds the climber on the rope if his hand jumar
fails (as Benji described). I agree, too much of tying in might limit
the climber's movement, but not tying in enough might just limit him
permanently!!!
ganesh
"C.M Jadhav" <chamrila@v...> wrote:
FLAVOR00-NONE-0000-0000-000000000000;Ganesh i don't think u anchor
Are you an Elvis fan? Want to visit Heartbreak Hotel? Here's how you
can win a trip!
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
can win a trip!
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Do you Yahoo!?
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
____________________________________________________
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Do you Yahoo!?
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
warrierbalram
May 2, 2005, 2:13:12 PM5/2/05
to npte...@googlegroups.com
--- In nanga...@yahoogroups.com, "C.M Jadhav" <chamrila@v...> wrote:
In my view hand jumar is quite sufficient to hold one climber. failing
hand
jumar is very remote occurance, one has to look in to reasons of the
same.
However a prudent climber will make sure that he uses reliable equipments
and systems and also learn to trust them. I am with u for safety
aspects but
the word enough is very subjective. theroticaly there should not be
limit to
safety aspects, however, the question remains what if all of them fails at
the same time.
Charu.
-------Original Message-------
From: nanga...@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 17:05:41
To: nanga...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [nangaparbat] telbaila village side route
Charu, if i haven't understood what you say, pls correct me. But when you
just pass the tape connecting the jumar and foot-rest through the
carabiner
on the harness (and haven't tied a knot on the carabiner), there is
nothing
that holds the climber on the rope if his hand jumar fails (as Benji
described). I agree, too much of tying in might limit the climber's
movement
Are you an Elvis fan? Want to visit Heartbreak Hotel? Here's how you
can win
a trip!
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
can win
a trip!
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Do you Yahoo!?
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Do you Yahoo!?
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
To Post a message, send it to: nangaparbat@e...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: nangaparbat-unsubscribe@e...
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
warrierbalram
May 2, 2005, 2:15:26 PM5/2/05
to npte...@googlegroups.com
--- In nanga...@yahoogroups.com, "Fulton Nazareth" <fulton_n@e...>
wrote:
All said and done tying off the leg loop to the harness will certainly
hamper movement, of course one could tie on a second line from the
foot jumar to the harness thereby eliminating the problem. As to the
limits of safety, I think that in a crucial situation there should be
at least one back up as equipment/technology is repeatedly known to
fail. If all fail at the same time someone is certainly be responsible
for it.
Fulton.
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
wrote:
All said and done tying off the leg loop to the harness will certainly
hamper movement, of course one could tie on a second line from the
foot jumar to the harness thereby eliminating the problem. As to the
limits of safety, I think that in a crucial situation there should be
at least one back up as equipment/technology is repeatedly known to
fail. If all fail at the same time someone is certainly be responsible
for it.
Fulton.
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Balram Warrier
May 2, 2005, 2:17:17 PM5/2/05
to nptechies
Now I know that 99% of guys here will probably not
associate the term safety with the climber Benji. All
the same I must add what I think actually happened
which was life saving
since all climbers climb with a long and short anchor
(what we call cows tail), the long cows tail was
anchored to the eye of the foot jumar. Now since the
cows tail is like 3 and half feet long it does not
actually hamper the act of jumaring.
best regards
Benji
associate the term safety with the climber Benji. All
the same I must add what I think actually happened
which was life saving
since all climbers climb with a long and short anchor
(what we call cows tail), the long cows tail was
anchored to the eye of the foot jumar. Now since the
cows tail is like 3 and half feet long it does not
actually hamper the act of jumaring.
best regards
Benji
Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages