fall simulator

[warrierbalram]

--- In nanga...@yahoogroups.com, "nuwazish nariman patel"
<Nuwazish_Patel@r...> wrote:

hi benji
you are right the fig of eight will produce least force because it
does not lock the rope suddenly and the fall is halted more
smoothly and hence producing less weight on top anchor. it is same
as dynamic belay where the belayer intentionally lets some rope
run through during a fall.
one more thing .when you run the tests use dynamic rope and not
static. static ropes are never used for leading. the force
produced by a dynamic rope will be much less due to elasticity.
i have got some info worth reading. i have attached it.
hope its usefull.
1> how to clip into a bolt which we cant reach. due to reasons
like a broken bolt on the way. (i think we should make such a
device using thin alluminum poles.)
2> how to rappel past a knot.
3> how to use pitons.
thats all
bye.
--- End forwarded message ---

[Balram Warrier]

Vijay
in reply to your query i am pasting the exact
definition of "force" as mentioned in the simulator

"All the forces have been calculated in DaN
(equivalent to a Kilogram force). Remember that, at
the Earth's surface, the mass of a climber in
Kilograms is approximately equal numerically to his or
her weight. "

Inshort the force on the runners and climber in a fall
is shown as xxx DaN or kgs which is more easily
understood by us, since we are also mentioning the
climber weight in xx kgs.

Nova - I ran the simulator using Static rope mainly
because the ropes we have here have no UIAA rating and
the stretch factor is very poor,(also UIAA specifies
that equipment should be retired after specific use/
period of time etc.) I wanted to check, under extreme
conditions with varring fall factors whether the force
on the last runner and climber would be fatal and I
can safely say that my hypothetical climber of 65 kgs.
survived many fatal fall simply if I changed the belay
device from Grigri to stitch plate/fig 8.

(just trying to reduce my quantum of fear)

best regards

benji

From: "chidambaram vijaykumar"
Reply-To: nanga...@yahoogroups.com
To: nanga...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [nangaparbat] fall simulator
Date: 16 Dec 2002 15:52:06 -0000
What was the force benji?
Also Nova can you send that stuff- hooking on a far
off bolt thru
some stick....
you also mentioned having some dope on bolts...can you
share that
too.
vjay

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[Balram Warrier]

Thank you Nova, if you had not been researching, I
would not have got hold of this simlator.

I wish to put down my observation.

I ran the simulator using the climber weight @Kgs65 ,
rope as "staticRope" and using various combinations of
the 3 runners (i.e. distance between runners and
equipment used as runners) and i have found that the
best device to be used as belay is a Stitch plate /
fig 8.

The force on the climber and last anchor (closest to
climber) was least when a stitch plate/ fig 8 was used
as belay device. This force went up 75% with the use
of italian hitch and further 100% compare to italian
hitch, with the use of Grigri. Now this is interesting
because the Grigri is also a Petzl device.

Now this means that it is worth investing in a fig 8
mainly because although the stich plate/ATC lets you
belay without the rope getting twisted, a fig 8 also
lets you rapple pitches without fear of rope burning
thru the carabiner.

best regards

benji

From: "nuwazish nariman patel"
Reply-To: nanga...@yahoogroups.com
To: nanga...@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [nangaparbat] (unknown)
Date: 14 Dec 2002 08:17:06 -0000
hi all
the petzl website has a really nice fall simulator.
go to www.petzl.com -> verticl sports -> multipitch
climbs -> fall
simulator. it is the best fall simulator i have seen.
also it has some good info on rope stretch and shock
loads.
bye.