Fwd: placement of pittons

[warrierbalram]

--- In nanga...@yahoogroups.com, "jay sheth" <jay_sheth82@h...> wrote:
Constructive scarring

Use nuts and cams whenever possible on aid climbs, but if you do need
to use
a piton, you can
place and remove it in a way that leaves the placement better suited to
nutting by the next party.
Hammering pitons will remove rock from the crack, but with a little
care and
forethought the
results can be constructive rather than destructive. These simple
steps can
turn your negative
impact into a positive one.
Learn to top-step properly. Even if top-stepping isn't absolutely
necessary
to reach a placement,
it allows you to better inspect your options and place a pin most
effectively. Spacing out your
placements might allow you to reach a hidden nut slot, and minimizes
impact
if you must drive a
pin.
Selective nailing. If you need to nail, choose a location that can evolve
into a nut placement.
Look for a widening in the crack that, if exaggerated, would seat a nut
well. If there is an
existing scar that can be enhanced, use it.
Angle it down. Instead of driving the pin straight in, place it downward,
with the eye higher than
the blade. This is critical, so that future placements will benefit
from a
groove in the crack
that slants down and in.
Precision nailing. Swing your hammer accurately. Flailing will add
unsightly
marks in addition to
the scar, and can even fracture and weaken the rock.
TLC cleaning. Most of the actual scarring occurs during removal, so the
second shoulders a lot of
the responsibility for constructive scarring. A little extra effort
can make
a critical difference.
As the second, you want to focus on preserving the rock. Here's how:
Before you begin hammering, jug up into the most advantageous
position, with
the pin about level
with your navel. (Not only does this allow you to be more precise with
your
hammer, it's easier
on your arms.) Now, hammer the eye of the piton up almost as far as it
will
go, being careful not
to go so far that you can't drive the pin back down without striking the
rock. Then, hammer the pin
back down only to its original position — no farther. Repeat until the
pin
wiggles and you can
remove it with your fingers. Now inspect your pin scar. It should be more
tapered and nut-able
than before the pin was driven.
For beaks, you want to leave the rock below the scar undamaged, so that
subsequent climbers can
"hook" their beaks. This requires careful removal of the beak, with
minimal
up-and-down motion,
since the blade of the beak is already canted down, and will break
through
to the surface if the
piece is rotated too far. Never use a funkness to rip out a beak. Tap
straight upward on the end
of the shaft, and rotate the blade only 20 degrees or so up and down.
It is
even possible to use
a small pair of vice-grips to help lever the beak up and out.
Finally, always leave yourself enough time to be careful. Rushing to make
the bivy can push even
conscientious climbers into sloppy and destructive practices.

Ron Olevsky has been climbing for more than 35 years and was the first
person to climb desert big
walls without a hammer. He became an AMGA-certified rock guide in 1990
and
is currently working on
an aid-climbing instructional video with Jeff Lowe.

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--- End forwarded message ---