belay changeovers
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warrierbalram
May 2, 2005, 2:24:53 PM5/2/05
to npte...@googlegroups.com
--- In nanga...@yahoogroups.com, "jay sheth" <jay_sheth82@h...> wrote:
Faster belay changeovers with an auto-block
Whether you're trying to blitz the Regular Northwest Face on Half
Dome, or
just interested in putting some verticality between you and the queue
forming below those Supertopo five-star classics, belay changeovers
can be
fumbly and slow, and are a good place to shave serious time off a route.
When my partner taught me how to use an auto-block belay device (such
as the
Cassin GTC, Petzl Reverso, or the Trango B52) for faster belay
changeovers,
I picked it up quickly and rewarded myself with some turkey jerky and a
cold, cold Keystone. By utilizing an auto-block's self-locking mode when
swapping leads, you'll be up and off the route quicker than you can
say its
name. Here's how.
Bombproof belays. For this Tech Tip to work, you'll need to belay your
second directly off the anchor, so only use this method if you're 100
percent confident in your point of attachment. A cordelette is useful in
equalizing all points, but the important thing is to create a power point
suitable for attaching the belay device.
Keep it rigged 'n' ready. After the leader constructs the anchor he'll
bring
his second up, belaying directly off the power point. To use an
auto-block's
self-locking mode, you'll need the auto-block and either one or two
locking
carabiners, depending on the model you're using. Keep these items
together,
and make sure you're familiar with the function of your particular device.
Use the auto-block as a tie off. Once the second arrives at the belay,
have
him weight the auto-block so that it locks. Make sure you keep your brake
hand on the rope! Once he's locked off, tie a back-up overhand loop
knot in
the brake line, directly below the auto-block. The second is now
safely tied
off. Once the second is safe, pass him the rack (a gear sling is highly
recommended!) so he can begin organizing for his lead. As the second is
organizing, grab the belay device from his harness (it doesn't have to
be an
auto-bloc), thread the brake line (below the back-up knot) through the
device, and clip the device to your harness, ready to belay.
The new leader is ready to go.
Prep the new leader. Once the second belay device is in position, help
the
new leader organize. Clip draws and other gear directly onto his
harness, as
this will save time. Consult the topo, share some water, or pass around a
snack. Always make sure you're doing something!
Blast it! When both climbers are ready, put the new leader on belay.
Then,
the new leader will un-weight the auto-block, untie the safety knot,
pull up
a loop of slack, and clip his lead rope into the power point as his first
piece. Before he leaves the belay, the new leader cleans the
auto-block and
brings it with him.
Repeat. Repeat this procedure until you top out. Belay changeovers should
never take more than two minutes. Blitz on!
_________________________________________________________________
Marriage? http://www.bharatmatrimony.com/cgi-bin/bmclicks1.cgi?74 Join
BharatMatrimony.com for free.
--- End forwarded message ---
Faster belay changeovers with an auto-block
Whether you're trying to blitz the Regular Northwest Face on Half
Dome, or
just interested in putting some verticality between you and the queue
forming below those Supertopo five-star classics, belay changeovers
can be
fumbly and slow, and are a good place to shave serious time off a route.
When my partner taught me how to use an auto-block belay device (such
as the
Cassin GTC, Petzl Reverso, or the Trango B52) for faster belay
changeovers,
I picked it up quickly and rewarded myself with some turkey jerky and a
cold, cold Keystone. By utilizing an auto-block's self-locking mode when
swapping leads, you'll be up and off the route quicker than you can
say its
name. Here's how.
Bombproof belays. For this Tech Tip to work, you'll need to belay your
second directly off the anchor, so only use this method if you're 100
percent confident in your point of attachment. A cordelette is useful in
equalizing all points, but the important thing is to create a power point
suitable for attaching the belay device.
Keep it rigged 'n' ready. After the leader constructs the anchor he'll
bring
his second up, belaying directly off the power point. To use an
auto-block's
self-locking mode, you'll need the auto-block and either one or two
locking
carabiners, depending on the model you're using. Keep these items
together,
and make sure you're familiar with the function of your particular device.
Use the auto-block as a tie off. Once the second arrives at the belay,
have
him weight the auto-block so that it locks. Make sure you keep your brake
hand on the rope! Once he's locked off, tie a back-up overhand loop
knot in
the brake line, directly below the auto-block. The second is now
safely tied
off. Once the second is safe, pass him the rack (a gear sling is highly
recommended!) so he can begin organizing for his lead. As the second is
organizing, grab the belay device from his harness (it doesn't have to
be an
auto-bloc), thread the brake line (below the back-up knot) through the
device, and clip the device to your harness, ready to belay.
The new leader is ready to go.
Prep the new leader. Once the second belay device is in position, help
the
new leader organize. Clip draws and other gear directly onto his
harness, as
this will save time. Consult the topo, share some water, or pass around a
snack. Always make sure you're doing something!
Blast it! When both climbers are ready, put the new leader on belay.
Then,
the new leader will un-weight the auto-block, untie the safety knot,
pull up
a loop of slack, and clip his lead rope into the power point as his first
piece. Before he leaves the belay, the new leader cleans the
auto-block and
brings it with him.
Repeat. Repeat this procedure until you top out. Belay changeovers should
never take more than two minutes. Blitz on!
_________________________________________________________________
Marriage? http://www.bharatmatrimony.com/cgi-bin/bmclicks1.cgi?74 Join
BharatMatrimony.com for free.
--- End forwarded message ---
warrierbalram
May 2, 2005, 2:26:03 PM5/2/05
to npte...@googlegroups.com
--- In nanga...@yahoogroups.com, "BENJAMIN DESOUZA"
<benji_india@h...> wrote:
It is good to see some climbing talk again ( at least in theory) Jai has
made a very good attempt to explain the belay changeovers in multi pitch
climbing. after taking a print out and reading the email for about 15
min I
got some idea about its contents. the reason being the graphic images
from
the actual tec tips is missing.
you can get the complete picture at www.savethis.com
and click on "climbing tech tip belay changeovers"
I dont know how long this info will be stored there, but its worth a try.
I would love to have an environment where the belay changeovers
between (1st
man and 2nd man ) would take not more than 2MINUTES, as has been
mentioned
in the article. This will save the valuable 28 minutes (at least) that I
have spent on multi pitch climbs during such changeovers. so I think
all ye
enterprising lead climbers should see this article.
Best regards
Benji
Contact brides & grooms FREE! http://www.shaadi.com/index.php?ptnr=hmltag
Only on www.shaadi.com. Register now!
<benji_india@h...> wrote:
It is good to see some climbing talk again ( at least in theory) Jai has
made a very good attempt to explain the belay changeovers in multi pitch
climbing. after taking a print out and reading the email for about 15
min I
got some idea about its contents. the reason being the graphic images
from
the actual tec tips is missing.
you can get the complete picture at www.savethis.com
and click on "climbing tech tip belay changeovers"
I dont know how long this info will be stored there, but its worth a try.
I would love to have an environment where the belay changeovers
between (1st
man and 2nd man ) would take not more than 2MINUTES, as has been
mentioned
in the article. This will save the valuable 28 minutes (at least) that I
have spent on multi pitch climbs during such changeovers. so I think
all ye
enterprising lead climbers should see this article.
Best regards
Benji
Only on www.shaadi.com. Register now!
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