Save Game File Motogp 2 Pc
Josephine Heathershaw
Both of my recent track crashes were the result of a sliding front tire (both were caused by me asking too much of a cold front tire). Sometimes it happens too quickly for you to respond. But, sometimes there is enough time to perform a maneuver that just may save you from a fall.
Your brain is alerted to the threat and triggers your muscles to tense. The rush of panic and muscle tension happens in an instant. Many riders end up on the ground because their survival instincts cause them to overreact and make matters worse.
To help the front tire regain traction (or at least not lose any more grip) you must first not add to the problem. This means staying relaxed (Good luck with that). With light handlebar pressure, the tire and suspension can work fluidly to manage surface irregularities.
A fellow instructor pointed out a caveat to the common cornering situation. Dan mentioned what can happen to traction when you are going uphill. He witnessed a fellow rider (with a passenger) lose the front and crash in front of him just as the crashing rider was getting on the gas. Why would this happen if what I say about relieving stress on the front tire is true?
The likely explanation is that the uphill slope, in combination with the weight of a passenger and the application of a bit too much throttle, unloaded the front tire too much. He probably also added a bit of steering input that tucked the front tire beneath him. The lesson is that load management and traction management go hand in hand and you need to develop a keen sense of how various factors can affect tire load and grip.
For those who are accustomed to dragging knee, it is possible to relieve front tire stress by levering the bike with your knee. Anything you can do to take pressure off the front tire will help the tire regain grip.
The other way to experience a front tire induced crash is to overbrake so you skid the front tire. This can happen whether you are upright or leaned. If this happens, get off the brake, NOW! This will let the front wheel roll again so you can regain control. Then get back on the brakes (you were braking for a reason, right?). But, this time squeeze the front brake progressively. You can still brake really hard (less so if you are leaned), but it must be done gradually to allow time to put load on the front tire, which increases traction.
It takes a good amount of skill and presence to control front tire skids. Like all other tricky situations, practice and experience increases the chance that you can act correctly and save a crash. Practice? How? Ride in the dirt, my friend! Pushing the front tire is a regular occurrence when riding on loose surfaces. Learning to control slides in the dirt is less risky than suddenly needing to manage a slide on your street bike. With this experience, you can train and condition your mind and muscles to react properly when a slide happens.
Another way to prepare for front tire slides (and many others) is to expect them to happen. This pertains to all times when you are in traction-reduced situations, including when cornering or braking hard.
Hello Ken.
I humbly admit my riding skills are limited so I am trying to apply my meagre knowledge of physics to the situation to get confidence in your technique. During a corner there is a centrifugal force acting to the outside of the turn and this has to be resisted by the friction between the tyre and the surface it is on. The formula for friction is Friction (traction) = coefficient of friction multiplied by load, where load is the vertical force down on the surface. If the coefficient of friction decreases (for example the tyre gets colder) the traction decreases and the centrifugal force may be greater than the traction and a slide will result. If the load (vertical force) decreases, applying that to the formula will result in a decrease in traction and the centrifugal force may be greater than the traction and a slide will result. Applying throttle will decrease the vertical load on the front tyre so I am puzzled as to why this would help. THE CRITICAL FACTORS THAT CAUSE A SLIDE ARE THAT THE CENTRIFUGAL FORCE BECOMES GREATER THAN THE TRACTION. The slide can be stopped by reducing the centrifugal force by increasing the radius of turn (hard to do when steering control has been lost) or reducing speed (also hard to do instantly) or increasing traction by applying more vertical load (See the formula) which is not what applying throttle does. The application of the technique by expert riders seems to work but I am puzzled.
Hal,
Great question. You are 100% correct in describing the equation for traction. This is why this stumped me as well. But then I started being more mindful of the effect of acceleration to prevent a sudden loss of grip.
had a little front wheel slide yesterday on a sharp curve with a little sand while playing a little with heavey lean. A simple lean back on the bike and neutral throttle put more pressure on the back tire. it was just instinct i think or maybe luck, lol. God help you if you are in deep with big bike.
The reason being is that its a fact of riding on these bad roads littered with potholes, diesel spills, oil spills, mud buildup, and various other factors that make anything other than riding straight lines bloody dangerous.
This generally keeps the bike below me to an extent and so aids balance. whatever angle you lean your bike, the centre of gravity will near enough always be central. This allows me more time to bring the bike back up in the event of a front wheel slide.
It does this in the same way a car slides out. The car slides on four wheels and does not turn over. The bike will slide in the same way as the balance is centred and so you and you bike will slide together and at the same angle for longer.
Ps, happy and safe riding does not include abiding by the speed limits and sitting in traffic jams, you are allowed to go up kerbs and along paths, hard shoulders and no entry routes if it gets you out in front.
If you are riding as I say on cornering(which is safer in my opinion)adjusting your position to the centre, it will allow this, lets call it the yoyo effect to work.
If your weight is wrong, ie you are hanging off the side like an eejot its going to slide more and you will crash or just get lucky.
At the end of the day these people should stick to the track and full leathers and stop watching the Moto GP.
They should alternatively adopt a more sensible riding technique which does not involve hanging off the side in any case whatsoever.
Incidentally, my rear tyre wears more to the centre than the sides and yet my front tyre wears more to the sides than the centre. The front wheel is pushed by the rear and a corner does not change this. Cornering will always put stress on the front tyre.
I experienced this the last ride before the weather got bad here in va. I was doing my normal runs through town and gassed it hard passing a bunch of people watching at this gas station. Had a pretty decent lean going but then I shifted to third as second was running out of steam. Felt the front completely lose traction but by the time I realized what was happening I was already in third and back on the gas so it corrected itself. Needless to say, my R6 has a brand new front tire on her now.
Well said.
One of my multiple front wheel slides happened when I did not see it coming: at night, in the rain, I must have hit an oil patch or something. Before any technique was ready to apply itself, my instincts already got control and diminished the lateral forces on my front tire by reducing lean angle and speed. Without thinking, I eased off the gas and steered inwards, righting up my bike and widening my turn.
On a bumpy road outside Brno, not going that fast or anything like 90kmph, but if somebody has ever been to Czech rep. you know how shitty our roads are ? The front tucked in quite hard on a right hand 45deg curve, my arms were almost straight, but I stayed relaxed (there was nothing I could do really it happened so damn fast), throttle steady (better than roll off for sure) and I rode it out.
Next time I went through there much much slower, it seems there is one really bad bumpy line but not easily spottable. I think that I did not expect it and it happened so damn fast saved me. There was simply no time for panic in which case I would probably rolled of the throttle or did some other stupid thing. Also good tyres help a lot! (Michelin PilotRoad 2)
Thanks for the comment, Pete. Sorry to hear about your crash. I tend to get street pressures in the ballpark and then ride well within the limits of the tires when on the street. (I know you do too).
I learned from riding on the racetrack just how important tire pressures are when cornering hard and fast. A few pounds can be the difference between a harmless slide and being tossed hard on the ground.
When looking at maximising the performance of a motorcycle, weight must be a factor. A lighter bike accelerates quicker, brakes quicker, turns quicker and generally covers up for the fact that most of us are carrying a bit too much weight ourselves!
First thing I could do is change to lightweight race fairings. Model dependant, but fairly consistently, removing road fairings with lights, indicators, padded seats (800g alone), seat cowls (600g), registration plates and trims will reduce around 5kg to the average superbike.
3). Install lithium battery. I have now installed a lithium battery, and this saves 2.5kg from my bike. There is no downside to doing this upgrade. It saves a great amount of weight, the battery is stronger, more reliable, more powerful. Its just a modern tech thing where there are no downsides. This model is from BikeIt International and costs 115. By motorcycle performance standards, its cheap as chips!
If we were to apply 15kg of these savings from my GSXR 750, the weight should be 176kg with 6kg fuel on board. Typically, in racing, they would weigh the machine after the race as it is, so you can imagine with around 1kg of fuel left in it, it would be around 171kg. This would be very light, in fact, 3kg under BSB superstock 1000cc limit and lower than the WSS soft maximum.
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