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Are you discussing the club buy some tools? Though cool, I am not sure about that.
Like you I'm happy to loan stuff to established members, (I know where you live.....) and have a drill press and random hardware and bits of stainless steel and aluminum that will eventually be offered to the club when my fettling days are over.
I have no problem with the club buying tools for the tool library.
My $0.02 on tools for wiring...When it comes to these kinds of jobs I like a good tool that can do all three of the following things well:1. Cut wire. Very sharp with good leverage and cuts from both sides, ie sharp on both sides, not flat on one and sharp on the other.2. Strip wire. All sizes up to ~10 awg stranded. Larger than 10 awg I find I use very infrequently and a simple knife or razor blade will usually do, and at that size if you lose a strand or two of the fine wires it's not as big of a deal.3. Crimp. Crimp up to 10awg insulated fittingsTo me, it is important that this is a single lightweight tool, the above actions are all 'dextrous' activities and are all usually done one right after another for each wire. When I re-did our electrical system from the battery to the distribution busses I probably made well over 100 cut-strip-crimps, having to switch tools between all of these actions would have added significant time and frustration to the task.For each fitting I usually crimp the wire 2x along the crimping zone so a ratcheting one would be kinda slow but for aged overworked hands it could be valuable.
The crimpers for big wire are expensive and I would NOT advocate for the hammer crimpers. The ones that look like bolt cutters work good but can be difficult in tight spaces. I crimp large wire basicly as many times as the length of the fitting will allow. Ratcheting would be advantageous in this size wire.
One thing that was mentioned in the presentation that I have heard conflicting information on is the use of solder in the crimp. I have heard that since boating is a dynamic moving enfironment, part of the reason we use fine stranded wire, is that the ever so slight but constant motion experienced by the wire, even when properly supported, can cause the soldered crimp will essentially make the stranded wire solid wire and will. Make a fatigue point right where the solder starts. Therefore it is better in a dynamic environment to NOT solder the crimp so that the fine strands are less likely to suffer from fatigue cracking and subsequent failure.
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