Charging Nautilus Marine Battery

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Gano Richardson

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Aug 5, 2024, 10:22:38 AM8/5/24
to nonstorchila
Designedto restore proper charge to trolling batteries faster without over-or undercharging. 3-stage charging (bulk, absorption & maintenance). LED display indicates power ON, charging, full charge & check connection. Low-line voltage compensation delivers true-rated output even when input volt age drops. Waterproof, shock- & vibration-resistant. Short circuit & reverse polarity protection prevents charger from operating if improperly connected to battery. For use with 12V/6-cell batteries (50- 130 amp hour rating that are flooded/wet cell, maintenance-free or starved electrolyte only). FCC compliant. UL listed to marine standard 1236. Full 3-year warranty

When out on the water, the last thing mariners want to deal with is a dead battery. The SC1389 from Schumacher Electric is ideal for marine deep-cycle boat batteries, keeping boats charged when sailors need it the most. With 15A and 12V of output, this on-board marine battery charger can charge up to three batteries sequentially and can be permanently mounted for convenience. The SC1389 is microprocessor controlled to automatically adjust the amperage rate when charging and maintaining batteries.


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So I have gone fishing on my inflatable twice so far this year. Charged the battery with my deep cycle charger the night before until it read 90%. Both times it was working fine for first hour of on and off use while on the river and lake. But both times the motor was getting slower and slower until the point where I was just putting along barely moving and had to resort to rowing to get back to shore.


Bring it back to CTC and ask them to test it. They will put it on Load test. I had a defective charger that ruined one of my batteries. Got them both replaced because they were both from Canadian Tire.


Yes....your battery is almost dead. You should be able to recharge a good battery to 100% within a few hours on the charger. First of all....the battery you chose is not a deep cycle battery. It's a hybrid between a starting battery and a deep cycle battery. You should buy a deep cycle battery. Second point.....the battery you bought is not a very large battery. It's ok for a couple of hours of trolling but not much more. It has a reserve capacity of 120 minutes. This means that it will give you 2 hours of power at 20 amps.before going completely dead. Every pound of thrust from you trolling motor consumes about 1.2 amps. Trolling at 1st speed does consume a good 5 to 7 amps.....maybe more. Another point to consider is that you never want to completely discharge your battery because this will cause damage and therefore greatly reduce the life of the battery. Buy a woltmeter and never let you battery go below 12.5 volts when you are trolling. A battery left to sit over a long period of time will go dead. It loses a small percentage of every month so you should recharge it about once per month. Even better, make the battery work a bit over the winter by plugging a 12 volt light bulb for a few hours. Since deep cycle batteries have covers that can be removed in order to check battery acid levels, the best tool to buy is a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity of the liquid in the battery. Never let the specific gravity of the battery go below 1.240. If the level of the acid is too low....add distilled water and recharge the battery until it attains 100%. Check the specific gravity when the battery is at 100% to see what the reading is. If you plan to troll for more than 1 or 2 hours, buy a much larger deep cycle battery. Get one with at least 180 minutes of reserve capacity. The largest Canadian Tire Nautilus model (group 31) has 205 minutes of reserve capacity and costs 140 dollars. Some deep cycle batteries sold in battery shops have 225 minutes of reserve capacity and cost about 180 dollars.


a 2 amp charger will raise a battery by 2 amps per hour a 10 amp will raise a battery by 10 amps per hour and so on...smart chargers will take a bit longer to charge because they have 3 stages of charging


As debluz had suggested, buy a hydrometer from princess auto, they are cheap to own, to ensure stores do not rip you off telling your battery is dead when it was not. Plug your trolling motor to get the battery somewhat discharge, then charge it up again to full charge. test the liquid using the Hydrometer, let it sit for a while before testing the acid inside the battery, the meter will tell you which cell is alive or dead.


But I have a standard battery box for my existing one and I've read on the reviews on CT site that CT doesn't have a more rectangular box that would fit this battery. Any suggestions on where I could get that and how much it should cost? I am in Mississauga, Oakville, and will be taking the 400 up north this weekend to Midland and Penetang.


Well, from the info you've provided it could be either the charger or the battery. If you didn't top up your batteries over the winter seasons, they most certainly could have become sulphated, which greatly lowers the performance of your battery.


I have an older model of that same charger, and presently the smart charger function is not working. If I select the 15 amp, or the 10 amp setting, it won't charge past about 60 %. It reports that it does. The display reads 100 % and Charge Complete, but after taking it off charge and leaving it for an hour, it drops back to 60%. I have to use the 2 amp setting, and then it does charge all the way to 100 %, albeit slowly. I intend to replace my charger next year with an onboard dual pro.


You might consider trying the 2 amp setting and see if it charges properly. Having Canadian Tire perform a load test is also a good idea. They could also show you how to check the liquid levels. You might just get a new battery out of it.


Comments already posted about the size of your battery are relevant. Pick a size that you don't discharge past 50 % and you will realize many many more cycles than running it nearly dead and then recharging.


based on walleye72's last post, it got me thinking about holding off of the new battery and trying something different for now. but ultimately, if a bigger battery gets me more trolling time, which i do a lot of, then the bigger battery is probably the way to go. i do like small river fishing. to be specific, a few sections of rivers i fish regularly don't have a lot of weeds and structure and are also murky so i can't see down. so i troll a lot. and i mean a lot.


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Each year as part of winterization I disconnect my battery. Come spring, a bit before our first outing I put a battery charger on it. (I have a Schumacher XC75 charger.) It seems like the last couple of years, at some point the charger will indicate some kind of error and I subsequently find out my battery needs to be replaced. This year it seems to be happening again. Error was "F06" which is "The charger detected that the battery may be getting too hot."



I had it on slow charge, so I didn't think that would cause a thermal runaway. So I thought maybe it was just the actual ambient temperature causing the problem. (It was in the boat, which was on my covered boat lift, with a mooring cover on.) So I tried it again with the cover off the boat so there would be better circulation. The display on the charger alternates between the volts and percentage charged. The volts showed 12, but the percentage never got above 69%. I pulled it off the charger and hooked it up to the boat just to see what I got, and it didn't even have enough juice to run the blower. So I tried one more time to charge, this time on fast rate, and it never got above 3%. (But I only gave it a couple hours before I had to leave.)


Also, is my battery just a cheap POS to begin with? It's an EverStart 24MS. That's WalMart's brand, but I understand it's made by Johnson Controls, which also makes Duralast, Varta, AC Delco, DieHard and dozens of other brands.

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