Powerstroke 7.3 Problems

[Samantha Figueredo]

Thisfailure occurred frequently during the 2011 model year. This issue became so severe, Ford created the Custom Satisfaction Program 12B33 to allow owners to have the NOx sensors checked and replaced. This initiative also gave them an upgrade for emission control.

The ceramic ball bearings, especially the ones in the 2011 and 2012 model years, sometimes caused costly turbo failures. Ford eventually switched to steel ball bearings. Gen 1 Powerstroke 6.7 models had their turbochargers pushed to the limit, but the Gen 2 and 3 models added larger turbos to provide more power, resulting in fewer problems.

By 2015, Ford had ironed out many of the early engine problems and made significant upgrades to the engine. Common problems in 2015-2019 6.7 Powerstroke include issues with the EGR cooler flow, the fan clutch, and the crankshaft damper. The updated turbo in these models created more power and torque, which sometimes led to issues too.

EGR Cooler: The redesign moved the EGR cooler to a location that makes it easier and less costly to replace. This cooler design is a cartridge style as well, so when applicable the core or guts of the cooler can be changed, rather than the entire assembly. This cooler still has the failure characteristics of most other factory coolers, in regards to overall expansion and contraction of the metal parts.

Exhaust system issues: Exhaust gas temperature (EGT) sensors fail so frequently that Ford extended the warranty on this part. Extreme exhaust temperatures can cause the sensor to strip the exhaust bung during removal, requiring retapping or replacement. EGT sensors are used by the ECU to monitor the catalytic converter and diesel particulate filter.

Early on, the 6.4l liter promised to address most of the problems with the 6.0l, while offering better overall performance. Tuners quickly found ways to increase power with just a few ECU programming changes, while commercial owners appreciated the stock engine's overall improvement in power and fuel economy.

Diesel particulate system: The particulate filter captures soot from the exhaust gas. Once the filter is full, the engine goes into regen mode, spraying diesel during the exhaust stroke to burn off this soot. During regen, power and fuel economy drops while exhaust temperatures increase. Over time, this filter can become permanently clogged, forcing the engine to stay in regen mode and eventually requiring replacement. This hampers performance and increases temperatures across the engine. The process also forces diesel into the crankcase. This dilutes the oil, which may make it less effective at lubricating the engine.

EGR cooler: To address the EGR cooler failures of the 6.0l, Navistar added a second cooler to spread out the thermal load. However, these coolers are still prone to cracking. Exhaust enters the horizontally-mounted cooler first, so it experiences more heat than the vertical cooler. As a result, the horizontal cooler tends to fail before the vertical cooler.

Oil cooler: Debris in the oil or coolant can clog the cooler, leading to increased oil temperatures. This cooler is buried under the intake manifold and turbo system, which means it is very difficult and costly to replace. We offer two ways to address this problem. Our remote cooler mounts below the brake booster, allowing you to flush or replace the oil cooler easily, once the kit is installed. We also offer a supplemental cooler, which adds more cooling capacity to the oil cooling system and improves the filtration system as well.

The 6.0l Powerstroke offered far more horsepower and torque than anything else on the market, making it the clear winner for towing rigs. A variable geometry turbo, four valve per cylinder heads, and a strong block with a reinforced bed plate promised excellent performance. Unfortunately, all that new technology brought a long list of problems.

EGR cooler: While EGR cooler failures are common across a wide range of diesel engines, these failures are more frequent on this Powerstroke. The undersized cooler has trouble dealing with exhaust heat, which may lead to faster metal fatigue and soot buildup. Also, because the engine coolant had to flow through the engine oil cooler before making its way to the egr cooler, a restricted engine oil cooler could be a factor in egr cooler failure.

Water pump: The stock water pump uses a plastic impeller. A combination of age and repeated heat cycling can make this plastic brittle. Cracks in the blades reduce coolant flow, which may lead to overheating. We offer a replacement pump that solves this problem by using a billet aluminum impeller.

While the 6.7l carried over for the 2017 model year, the Ford Super Duty was completely redesigned. This meant the powerplant had to be repackaged to fit in the new engine bay. Ford's designers took advantage of this opportunity to improve intake and exhaust flow, increasing torque.

The third generation of the 6.7l diesel builds upon its predecessor instead of replacing it. The biggest change is a switch from aluminum to steel pistons. These new pistons are shorter, making them almost the same weight as the old pistons while offering increased strength and reduced friction. Other changes, like a two piece intake manifold and a faster firing injection system, improve overall performance.

EGR coolers: Factory EGR coolers can fail in several ways, plugging and/or rupturing are the most common. Most factory EGR Coolers use thin, rectangular passages that may clog with soot over time, restricting exhaust gas flow. While it is possible to remove and clean the cooler, the rate of carbon build-up can vary widely between engines and vehicle use. This makes it hard to create a preventative maintenance schedule that effectively stops blockages.

Oil Cooler: Most Powerstroke diesels use a water-to-oil cooler mounted directly to the block. While coolers used in some of these engines are prone to failure, either by plugging up or rupturing, there are other options. Upgrading to a more effective cooler or even an air-to-oil cooler, could help to keep oil temperatures under control, protecting the engine.

Help my 7.3 Power Stroke cranks but will not start. So lets put down that can of starting fluid and figure out why it won't start instead of causing more damage. The first step in a 7.3 no start is to simply check the oil level. Yes the oil level. Your engine could be low by just 3-4 quarts causing a hard start. Unlike other diesel engines the Powerstroke has two oil pumps. One to lubricate the engine components and the other to operate the fuel injectors.

Next lets sit in the driver's seat. Turn the key on, does the "Wait to start light" come on? If the light does not light up check the 30 amp fuse under the steering wheel. This fuse will operate the fuel bowl heater and a power circut for the powertain control module. A common 7.3 PSD problem is the fuel bowl heater shorting out under the fuel filter, which in turn blows the fuse.

Try and crank the engine. If you have a tach guage does it move? If the computer does not see a tach signal it will not turn on the fuel. The truck must also crank fast enough. If it is not cranking fast enough it won't generate a signal for the camshaft position sensor.

Next step is checking glow plugs. Generation one and two powerstrokes will vary in their glow plug control, but I will keep this simple. On most PSD on the passenger side on the engine on top there will be a relay. This relay has four terminals. (note sometimes there are two relays next to eachother one is for glow plugs and one is for the intake heater. Also on some models the glow plug relay will look like a mini control module. do not go poking around on these wires it requires a different set of tests.) Most PSD's have the 4 post relay. One wire will have B+ all the time, across from it on the other big post this is the feed to the glow plugs. The Two other terminals smaller in size, One is key on power from the ignition switch and the other is a ground controlled by the Powertain Control Module. Verify That the relay is working. Even if it makes a click noise, verify the relay has really switched power. Now the glow plugs will need to pull about 180-190 amps when cold. This is total for all eight glow plugs. Yes that is alot of amps so be sure your battery and charging system is up to par. When your truck losses one glow plug it will become harder and harder to start. It is only a matter of time till all the glow plugs fail. Can't see the glow plugs. That's because they are located under the valve covers. AAAhhh do not use starting fluid on a hard start. If you have only 3 glow plugs working and you use starting fluid on it you are going to cause engine damage very quickly.

hi jim,sam and bj here/your info helped us get our truck started/pcm neded to be flashed and changed out crankshaft position sensor/now we don't have alt/overdrive or guages any suggestions/thanks waiting to hear from you and powerstroke/we work on a lot of them and own 2 thanks again sam/bj

hey. i tried all the above before reading ths site. i ran codes and it threw a p1212 and a p1280. i figured my icp sensor is probably shot. i replaced it ($140 at wholesale price BTW) and still nothing. i plugged in the block heater overnight to see if the glowplugs were shot. nothing. heres what happened: i went out to fire it up in the morning. i didnt drive it the day before, but the day before that it ran great. so i go to crank and wait for the light. it cranks but no start. i wait for the light again and still no start. so i went through everything listed and still nothing. after swapping icp sensors, it doesnt throw a code anymore. there is fuel in the bowl and its clean. do you have any ideas??

I have the same thing as Jeff. I last stopped the engine when it was showing signs of gas deprivation, then cranks but no start. New fuel filter, verified that diesel is pumping out, new CPS, tried heater for a few hours ... yes engine oil, NO CODES! Any ideas?

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