Shimano Derailleur Manual
Sara Legath
This derailleur features a charge port, LED, button and an EW-SD300 type port used to connect the derailleur to the battery. Both the rear derailleur and the front derailleur connect to the battery using a wire. The shift levers send their shift commands to the rear derailleur wirelessly.
11-speed Di2 had a feature called Gear Position Control that effectively locked out the smallest two cassette cogs when in the small ring at the front. This feature is not enabled for 12-speed Ultegra and 105 derailleurs.
Keep having to go back to the manual to read what the LEDs mean or what the button does? Download my Cheat Sheets, print them, and keep them close to your bike. That way you'll never have to look for the manual again.
Since the main junction functionality has moved to the rear derailleur, Shimano also changed the method of getting out of crash mode. Pressing the button on the rear derailleur would be hard during a race, so you can now shift out of crash mode.
Dear Lennard,
I have a new bike for 2015 and put a new Dura Ace 9000 group on it. During the initial front derailleur setup, I noticed that the plastic guide provided with the front derailleur, which shows which side the cable routing nut should be positioned, indicated the cable to be virtually straight down the center-line rather than one side or the other. I chose the side that it seemed to be leaning to and attempted to finish setting up my derailleur.
The problem that I discovered was that without enough of angle on the cable in relation to the derailleur lever arm and pivot point, the cable has almost zero leverage [see photos 1 and 2]. I played with it for a long time before taking the bike to my local shop to see if they had a solution. I was told by the mechanics that for some bikes (not just mine), the cable exits below the bottom bracket inline with the front derailleur pivot and pinch bolt, thus negating any leverage when trying to actuate the shifter. It also makes tuning the upper and lower trim settings virtually impossible because the cable tension has almost no intermediate points in the lever travel.
I suggested to Brian, in contrast to the instruction manual, that he run the cable over the top of the bolt from the left to maximize initial leverage. That solved his problem, and he replied this way:
The fact that the cable is pulling down so close to in line with the derailleur arm on these 11-speed derailleurs, followed by a fast shift with tremendous leverage on the long arm, means that the stress on the derailleur mount is also higher than with traditional derailleurs. This is the reason that Shimano has a support bolt for braze-on versions of these derailleurs, like on Di2 front derailleurs.
The band-clamp style derailleur (photo 5) provides sufficient stiffness without further support. However, the high cable forces can flex many frame mounts. To counteract this, Shimano braces its braze-on-type long-arm front derailleur with an extra support bolt (photos 1, 2, and 4) that pushes against the frame, but this support bolt could dent, crack, or bore into the seat tube were it not for the (included) aluminum self-adhesive backing plate placed under its tip. This is the same as with Di2, which also has tremendous shifting force.
2. If needed, switch the converter. On Ultegra and 105 derailleurs (FD-6800 and 5800), push out the little rectangular converter plate just below the cable-fixing bolt with a 2mm hex key from its recess in the arm. Rotate it 180 degrees, and then push it back into the recess; its protruding pin will now have been moved to the opposite side of the converter plate. On Dura-Ace FD-9000 derailleurs, rotate the notched washer under the cable-fixing bolt so that its notch surrounds the other one of the two protrusions on the derailleur arm.
3. Pull the cable tight under the cable-fixing bolt. Make sure it enters and exits under the bolt correctly: on Ultegra and 105 (FD-6800 and 5800), the cable will enter on the left side of the converter pin, go around the right side of the bolt, and come straight up from there (see photo #5); on Dura-Ace FD-9000, no matter which protrusion the converter notch is surrounding, the cable will enter between the two protrusions, go around the right side of the bolt, and come straight up from there (see photo #1).
5. Set the limit screws and cable tension. Set these like any other cable-actuated front derailleur, with the following exceptions. 1.) When checking for chain rub on the inner cage plate in the lowest (small front/big rear) gear combination, make sure that the front derailleur is in its most inward (low trim) position by activating the inner shift lever three times; adjust cable tension or the inner limit screw to get 0-0.5mm clearance in this combination. 2.) Fine-tune cable tension by shifting to the big/big combination and then giving the inner shift lever a soft click to move the derailleur to the high trim position. Check that the inner cage plate just barely clears the chain (see photo #7) without rub (0-0.5mm clearance), and tighten or loosen the cable accordingly to achieve it. To work correctly, these derailleurs need to have the maximum possible cable tension, and this step ensures that. If, after setting this, the derailleur will not drop all of the way to the inner limit screw (and hence will rub the chain in the lowest gear combination), reduce cable tension just enough for it to barely reach the inner limit screw.
About RD Protection* Rotate the front chainwheel when activating RD Protection Reset.
If the bicycle receives a strong impact, the RD Protection operates and the connection between the motor and the link is momentarily severed so that the rear derailleur will no longer operate. If this happens, hold down the rear derailleur adjustment button on junction (A) of SM-EW79A for 5 seconds or longer to activate RD Protection Reset, which will restore the connection between the motor and the link. If RD Protection. Reset does not activate, manual recovery is also possible. Consult with a distributor in advance.
* Refer to the Service instructions for the ST-7970 for details on stroke adjustment.FAQSRead More About This Manual & Download PDF:Is this auto shift?Its electronic shifting
Even with electronic groupsets there are several mechanical factors that influence the shifting performance. A worn-out chain can easily slip on the sprockets and mess up your ride. We will explain how to check and change your chain in a separate tutorial.
For this specific tutorial we assume that your groupset is properly installed and that crucial wearing parts such as cables and mech-hanger are in a good state and the battery of your electronic groupset is fully charged.
Gear-adjustments are pretty much the same for all manufacturers. Product specifics can be read in the manual.
If you press the ribbed switch on the shifter you normally use to change to a lighter gear, the rear-derailleur will move towards the wheel with micro-adjustments. Repeat this operation until you hear the chain rubbing on the fourth largest sprocket.
For the following step use the smooth switch on the shifter you normally use to shift to a heavier gear. Press this button 4 times to move the chain away from the wheel again. The setting is now complete, and you can return to the normal mode by pressing the button on the junction box for another 5 seconds.
Just like with the rear-derailleur you can set the limit of the front-derailleur using the H and L limit-screws. Once again, the H screw (High) sets the upper limit, only this time on the big chainring. The L screw (Low) sets the lower limit on the small chainring.
By pressing the ribbed switch on the shifter you normally use to change to a harder gear, the front-derailleur move towards the large chainring with micro adjustments. By pressing the smooth switch on the shifter you normally use to shift into a lighter gear, the front-derailleur moves towards the small chainring with micro adjustments.
Now you can depress the button on the junction box for another 5 seconds to exit the setting mode.
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I have a 6870 front derailleur that doesn't want to go into micro adjustment mode, when I click either of the left shifters (having pushed the button on junction A) it doesn't micro adjust, the red light just flashes on the junction box.
For Di2 front deraileur microadjustment, the adjustment entry mode (entered by holding the button on the junction box), has to be entered with the chain on both big cogs - both front and back. Refer diagram from page 57 of the manual.
Don't know if you've already come across this but someone on one of the tri forums had probs getting his FD to micro adjust too. The OP didn't follow up so don't know how things turned out but they referred him to pages 57-58 in the Shimano manual for doing micro adjustments.
This guide contains important information regarding bicycle assembly. It is intended to be a convenient general reference only. It is not intended to be a complete or comprehensive manual covering all aspects of bicycle assembly or safety. Please reference the Mountain Bike Product Manual for more information
Next, adjust the high-limit screw so the guide pulley and the chain are vertically lined up with the smallest sprocket. Pull the cable taut, reconnect it, and tighten the cable anchor bolt. While turning the pedals, shift the chain onto the largest rear sprocket. If the derailleur will not move inward far enough to allow the chain to shift onto that sprocket, turn the low-limit screw counterclockwise until the shift can be completed. If the shift CAN be completed, turn the low-limit screw clockwise until the derailleur is prevented from moving past the largest sprocket.
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