There's no way to do it currently without a wrapper.
Currently for chromium windows, we use the (otherwise unnecessary) "ninja -t msvc -e environment.block compiler.exe ...". This is a bit silly just to set the environment; it no longer does any of the deps parsing that was the original use of that tool.
Ideally, I'd like a variable pointing to that file, or perhaps it could be a literal directly containing the contents of the environment block. Another possibility that was proposed before is "env_SOMETHING = blah" to set SOMETHING.