WE GOT EXCELLENT "VADA PAV" IN SWITZERLAND NEAR
THE HISTORICAL REICHENBACH FALLS--SHERLOCK HOLMES DIED HERE.
FRANCE IS REMEMBERED BY THE SLOGAN "LIBERTY EQUALITY AND FRATERNITY ".
NOW MUTHUSWAMY HAS MADE IT FAMOUS FOR IDDLIES.
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The Idli goes to Paris
It's not caviar and champagne but the
humble idli, vada and dosa that is going places. Muthuswamy, who once supplied
milk in Matunga, has Mumbai's upper crust eating out of his hand, quite
literally.Meet the man behind the batter.
When big-time
diamond
merchant and film producer
Bharat Shah wanted to throw a party in
Antwerp to celebrate the wedding of his son a few years ago, guess who he turned to for catering the food? Not the Hilton or Radisson but
Muthukrishnan Reddy aka Muthuswamy of the Matunga Labour Camp, celebrated for his light-as-air idlis and tangy sambhar.

Muthuswamy, 58, accepted the order with his
characteristic alacrity and flew down to the land of De Beers with an entourage
of ten cooks and a lot of cooking vessels. He rustled up the pleasantly pungent
Ra
sam vadas, fluffy idlis, crisp dosas, perfectly spongy panniyarums. The aroma
of freshly ground coriander, tamarind and curry leaves wafted in the party
hall, and Muthuswamy had the guests, including the who’s who of the diamond
trade, licking their manicured fingers.
More recently, when industrialist Mukesh Ambani and wife Nita wanted to
host a Diwali party at their Rs1,600 crore home Antilla in Mumbai’s Carmichael
Road, the self-effacing Muthuswamy was the natural choice. The five feet
something caterer, clad in a white mundu and shirt, is a regular fixture at
parties thrown by the richest couple of the land.
Muthuswamy is also sought after by other biggies of India, including the Ruias
and Mittals.
The man who started his career 30 years ago by supplying milk in the Matunga
Labour Camp-Dharavi area later graduated to selling idlis and dosas at the
ramshackle Uma Shankar Hotel in Dharavi, he has since come a long way. His
annual turnover runs into a few crores, but he doesn’t like to discuss it. “You
know why,’’ he says.
Muthuswamy is truly bitter about the high rates of taxation in India. “Apart
from income tax, I have to pay value added tax, service tax, etc. Almost 60 per
cent of my earnings goes to the government. It is not worth it,’’ he complains,
much like anyone else in the corporate world.
Muthuswamy receives 50 to 60 catering orders every month for large weddings,
anniversaries, birthdays and JLT (Just Like That) parties hosted by Mumbai’s
upper crust.
When asked which one was the biggest party he has catered, Muthuswamy replies
diplomatically: “Well, all clients are the same for me. What I am interested in
is the satisfaction of my clients and their guests.’’
Indeed, gastronomic satisfaction is his USP and pride. Many who have consumed
hundreds of idlis in Udupi restaurants, guzzled litres of their sambhar and
tasted their fair share of chutneys and masala dosas validate Muthuswamy’s
food. His idlis are known for their fluffiness and his sambhar recipe beats the
best in the business.
Ask for the secret of his recipes and he says, “I do not compromise on quality
come what may. I source the best ingredients in the market and prepare the
dishes in a traditional manner. I have done my own experimentation and apart
from that I have learnt a lot from recipe books like Samaithupaar. I personally
supervise the preparation of all items.’’
His micro-management seems to have paid off. Muthuswamy presides
over quite an empire.
He has catered parties all over the world, including Belgium, Italy, France and
South Africa. In fact, until sometime ago, he would export ready-to-cook idlis
and other foods to a company in South Africa, which in turn exported them to
Paris, Rome and other European capitals. He has stopped his export business
because of logistical issues.
Muthuswamy has three sons, one of whom is an aeronautical engineer while the
other two are
management graduates who help him run the business. They also have plans to
expand.
A few years ago, Muthuswamy purchased a fast-food joint called Relax opposite
Matunga railway station and renamed it Arya Bhavan. It is no surprise that Arya
Bhavan is a big hit with the Gujarati, Kutchi and south Indian community in
Matunga. Interestingly, it sells idlis called the Brahmin idli and Iyengar
idli. Muthuswamy also owns a restaurant in Madurai called Nellai Arya
Bhavan.