I upgraded to the new input shaping firmware and printed a bonkers benchy, which was... insane in the best way possible. However, when I slice my own, it's 50 minutes instead of 15. I have the IS profile in, do we know what else we have to do to get these mind-blowing speeds? This is ideal for draft parts.
If the bonkers benchy gcode was sliced with PS then the settings will be stored at the end of the gcode. You can use Prusa slicers Import settings from gcode option under the file menu to load them into PS or manually take a look.
Alright, so I have made a profile that prints a benchy in 18min. I have matched almost everything to the bonkers benchy file. I am going to print a buddy dog with it, and if anyone else wants to try printing buddy in 13min go for it. !AtmHUeM3fIvjgqMWsB73qSnCqwAIUg?e=B8WUwo
I noticed watching it print that it had some behaviors that I have identified as solutions to printing defects I've been experiencing on my XL prints. On the bonkers benchy when a toolhead was done for the layer and the second toolhead was about to come in the toolhead first went to the wipe tower and then retracted and docked. This prevented a thick string from being left on the print when the bed lowers for docking and instead it's left on the wipe tower.
Does anyone know why this would happen on my benchy? The rest is practically perfect but on small extrusion areas, it seems to be weak. I have retraction at 1.5mm and when it reverts, I increase by 0.2mm^3. Doesnt seem to be better.
NOTE: Cooling was my biggest issue with the other ugly Benchy that I am leaving in for the rest of the photos. I ran the exact same gcode again with 2-year old blue Hatchbox filament, but this time I pointed a huge fan at the printer. The curling in the rear corner went away, and the overhangs on the hull printed really nicely this time!
I did my best to print the input-shaping test part. You have to carefully adjust all sorts of slicer settings, and some custom layer-change gcode SHOULD slightly tweak the input shaping settings from layer to layer. I am quite certain that I did something wrong. My test print came out looking pretty much the same from top to bottom.
I stopped the print to click the arc welder button in Octoprint. This converts dozens of small line segments into arc commands. This means fewer lines of gcode have to be pushed over the serial port to print the same part. This improved the print quite noticeably!
Also, just to add an extra point - have you tried moving and re-slicing the model? The bulge/layer shift looks as if it is in the same place each time, which could say it's an issue with the model/gcode. A different position or model would produce a different slice so you can try it.
Note on the right benchy, the line running parallel to the bow, below it. But also go look at the top/first pic of the S3D/Slic3r compare above: You can see the same artifact in the S3D print as well.
I went to the 3dBenchy home page found a link for troubleshooting but the link doesn`t work,when My chimney is not 7 mm round or my storage compartment is not 12 mm square or i can read the name on the bottom of benchy but cannot read it on the stern where do i find where it explains to me what needs to be adjusted ? I downloaded the pdf file for 3dbenchy it has pictures for the " Measure and Calibrate " ok how and what needs to me calibrated ? What am I missing here aside from the knowledge to Calibrate ?
I have just ordered some filament samples (each sample is 10m x 1.75mm). How should I test the samples, given that there is only 10 metres of each to play with? Just printing a benchy will use about 4 metres. I would probably want to print a benchy, so that leaves 6 metres to play with. I am mostly interested in producing functional (not decorative) pieces. I do not have a heated bed.
Select an STL that exhibits characteristics you want to test (bridging, resistance to various pressures) and print it with each material. Preferably, run the same exact gcode, only changing temperatures, so that you get an apples-to-apples comparison.
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