Kenmore range issue
Cherie Hartery
and plugs on the top panel are not working. I thought it may be the fuses
that needed to be replaced but that was not the problem.
Could anyone give me any idea of how to fix this?
Thanks,
Cherie
Jeff
clock/control panel on the range as well as the panel fuses.
"Cherie Hartery" <char...@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:gvbnc2$ehe$1...@news.datemas.de...
Cherie Hartery
"Jeff" <jck...@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4a19e548$0$23751$9a56...@news.aliant.net...
Thomas Clancy
<char...@nl.rogers.com> did etch in stone:
>The fuses under the top of the control panal where the ones we replaced.
>
This sounds odd, but did you test the new fuses with a multi-meter?
Since replacing the fuses, are the plugs now working? It would be
unusual for clock circuitry and plugs to be tied together on a
relatively modern stove. If the fuses are good, there are only a few
possibilities (assuming all other features of the stove are
functional) : The wire that supplies the plugs has burned off or the
electronic control unit (for clock et al - presuming digital display)
has given up the ghost, or both. Unplug the stove, remove the back
and inspect the wires going up to top.
Regards,
Thomas
WARNING! EMAIL S~P~A~M~B~L~O~C~K~E~R PROTECTION WARNING!
Substitute 'HOTMAIL' for 'SPAMORAMA' when responding VIA email
Cherie Hartery
No, we didn't check to fuses with a multi-meter. Nothing changed since
replacing the fuses.
There is really something odd going on with this though. Yesterday, I
flicked the switch to turn on the oven light, it was lit but only really
dull, but the clock came on....so, I check the electric can opener, which is
plugged into the stove and it was working....so strange, because when I
pressed the can opener, the light in the oven became brighter. Turned the
switch back to turn off the light and nothing worked again. Some wires are
crossed there somewhere. We will take off the back tonight and see if
anything stands out.
Everything else is working, burners,oven and applicable lights.
"Thomas Clancy" <psx...@spamorama.com> wrote in message
news:9jdl15tgmejvse4dm...@4ax.com...
stan
> Thanks Thomas,
>
> No, we didn't check to fuses with a multi-meter. Nothing changed since
> replacing the fuses.
>
> There is really something odd going on with this though. Yesterday, I
> flicked the switch to turn on the oven light, it was lit but only really
> dull, but the clock came on....so, I check the electric can opener, which is
> plugged into the stove and it was working....so strange, because when I
> pressed the can opener, the light in the oven became brighter. Turned the
> switch back to turn off the light and nothing worked again. Some wires are
> crossed there somewhere. We will take off the back tonight and see if
> anything stands out.
>
> Everything else is working, burners,oven and applicable lights.
>
>
> news:9jdl15tgmejvse4dm...@4ax.com...
>
>
>
> > On Mon, 25 May 2009 07:24:48 -0230, "Cherie Hartery"
>
> >>The fuses under the top of the control panal where the ones we replaced.
>
> > This sounds odd, but did you test the new fuses with a multi-meter?
> > Since replacing the fuses, are the plugs now working? It would be
> > unusual for clock circuitry and plugs to be tied together on a
> > relatively modern stove. If the fuses are good, there are only a few
> > possibilities (assuming all other features of the stove are
> > functional) : The wire that supplies the plugs has burned off or the
> > electronic control unit (for clock et al - presuming digital display)
> > has given up the ghost, or both. Unplug the stove, remove the back
> > and inspect the wires going up to top.
>
> >>"Jeff" <jck...@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >>news:4a19e548$0$23751$9a56...@news.aliant.net...
> >>> Which fuses did you check? There are fuses under the top of the
> >>> clock/control panel on the range as well as the panel fuses.
>
> >>>news:gvbnc2$ehe$1...@news.datemas.de...
> >>>>I have a Kenmore range model C970-624911, purchased in 2000 and the
> >>>>clock
> >>>>and plugs on the top panel are not working. I thought it may be the
> >>>>fuses
> >>>>that needed to be replaced but that was not the problem.
>
> >>>> Could anyone give me any idea of how to fix this?
>
> >>>> Thanks,
> >>>> Cherie
>
> > Regards,
> > Thomas
>
> > WARNING! EMAIL S~P~A~M~B~L~O~C~K~E~R PROTECTION WARNING!
>
> - Show quoted text -
The tip about checking the fuses or trying other new ones is a good
one. Also if any of the fuses were loose in their screw in holders
they may have burnt up the socket so are not making good contact?
The comment about the light sometimes coming on very dull suggests
that one of the 30 amp fuse is defective (or its socket ?) and/or not
making contact.
Not that familiar with the more 'modern' (digital dispaly) stove but
have owned several older style Kenmore and other make (electric
cooking ranges). On some of those the 'timer function' of the clock
controlled not only the oven start-stop and length of cooking time but
it also controlled the 115 volt utility outlet on the stove itself.
Although we rarely if ever used the outlet at all.
In one instance the timer/clock failed and we rewired the stove;
leaving all the correct fusing in place so that the clock/timer was by-
passed. The oven was then completely manually controlled and the
outlet (correctly fused) then worked all the time.
So; even if the clock display is one of the more modern 'digital
display' type it may also control the appliance/convenience outlet?
The booklet that came with the stove (if still around) may describe if
that is so.
If the timer/clock is defective and causing the problem it may be
possible to get an electrically competent person to alter the wiring
so that the clock does not work (or does not control the oven at all)
but the stove otherwise works OK. That would save the cost of
purchasing a new cooking stove.
PS. We are now on our third free stove not having bought a new one
since sometime in the 1980s! Occasionally they have required minor
repair (probably the reason the previous owners gave them away) and
then have typically worked for another ten years or so.
Thomas Clancy
<tsan...@nf.sympatico.ca> did etch in stone:
>The comment about the light sometimes coming on very dull suggests
>that one of the 30 amp fuse is defective (or its socket ?) and/or not
>making contact.
FYI, the receptacle (plug) should not be protected by a 30AMP fuse.
It should be no more than a 15AMP.
If the fuse isn't securely seated, it can cause grief for sure. If
wiring checks out (after removing the back) it's probably a good bet
the control/logic board (again assuming digital clock etc) is toast.
MacArthur
> On Mon, 25 May 2009 14:52:01 -0700 (PDT), stan
> <tsan...@nf.sympatico.ca> did etch in stone:
>
>>The comment about the light sometimes coming on very dull suggests
>>that one of the 30 amp fuse is defective (or its socket ?) and/or not
>>making contact.
>
> FYI, the receptacle (plug) should not be protected by a 30AMP fuse.
> It should be no more than a 15AMP.
>
> If the fuse isn't securely seated, it can cause grief for sure. If
> wiring checks out (after removing the back) it's probably a good bet
> the control/logic board (again assuming digital clock etc) is toast.
If the circuit calls for a 15 or 20 Amp fuse, a 30 Amp won't seat properly
anyway.
Fuse recepticles are adapted to the size of the base of the fuse.
--
Live strong and have a nice day, - "Nil carborundum illegitimi"!
Mac H E L P the planet - Don't I D L E ! ! !
Over 1600 Links at Http://MacArthur.Funknstyle.Com
Pictures at http://www.flickr.com/photos/macarthur
and http://www.flickr.com/photos/macarthur-ii/
Cherie Hartery
We have unscrewed the top panel to display the wiring and noticed a burnt
spot and soot around a few connections on the circuit board(if that's what
it's called). I'm thinking the circuit board needs to be
replaced. I will let the appliance experts deal with that.
"Cherie Hartery" <char...@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:gvbnc2$ehe$1...@news.datemas.de...