siding paint
Apple Jacks
good or bad? Whats the best type to use?
Terry
"Apple Jacks" <a...@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:xDPLe.74788$Ph4.2...@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
> Thinking of painting the siding on our house. Anyone have any
> experiences, good or bad? Whats the best type to use?
>
Newfoundland conditions. But the Matchless company was bought out, for the
value of the land/buildings it was rumoured and were closed down. An
employee advised that any Matchless paint you see now is rebadged paint made
'on the mainland'.
But it's not just the type of paint!
Not knowing the age and construction of your house and what outside material
you are painting?
But assuming you are painting older style wooden siding
(lap-siding/clapboard)?
Also assuming it has not been previously painted with an 'oil' paint. And if
so are you going to scrape it off to the extent possible?
On both our (wooden clapboard) homes, since 1960, we have always used an oil
based (but permeable) solid colour stain. Stains available in all colours
including white but if you are 'painting' over an older finish you'll
probably have to use a darker one in order to 'cover'? Using stain have
never had a paint peel problem. It's a certain amount of work painting a
house every five to seven years, say, but you can do it yourself and it
gives one a chance to inspect the outside, do minor repairs such as
recaulking or replace a section of split siding if necessary.
You cannot AFIK put a stain over an oil paint.
If you are talking about painting vinyl siding have no idea or experience.
We have always brushed on the stain with a six or four inch brush, although
I suppose you could spray it? Brushing gets it on the edges of the wooden
siding etc. For the wooden 'trim' on the outside of the house have always
used a good quality white (matchless) type.
One big problem with a painted exterior in this climate seems to be that any
moisture (and there will always be some that leaks out from cooking, showers
and just from us humans breathing out etc.) inside the walls trying to get
out, lifts or peels the outside paint skin. Especially so on older houses
that often do not have a good (or any?) vapour barrier inside and if an oil
paint, often a marine/boat paint has been used outside. The average human
breathes out; think this is correct. at least a pint of water while sleeping
overnight and in the absence of ventilation this moisture is trying to get
out and/or condense somewhere cold, like on the 'inside' surface of the
'outside' paint of the house. This causes 'bubbling' and peeling.
Had one neighbour who swore "Could never keep paint on his house". Was
scraping and repainting every couple of years! In the mid 1950s he had built
an older style house without any vapour barriers.
The worst combination seemed to be when say a latex or 'water' paint became
availble and was used inside, because it is easier to clean up and a non
permeable oil paint is used outside. Especially in the absence of good
vapour barrier. Many theories abound including putting on the wood siding
'rough side out', which helps the paint have something to stick to but
doesn't do anything about moisture in the absence of a vapour barrier.
We mention all this because in an older style house the use of good quality
oil paint 'inside' the house can provide a certain extent of vapour barrier
even if the house doesn't have one. Exhaust fans and ventilating the house,
to avoid high humidity with the use of a permeable stain or paint outside
should work well.
BTW make sure any roof space/attic is well ventilated; moisture build up
there can cause all kinds of problems. Additional vents if needed. If
someone has problems keeping paint on the edge of roof trim it may not be a
leaky roof per se. it may be moisture from insufficient venting!
Some 50+ years ago some houses and barns and fences were still painted with
lime-wash (lime dissolved in water and brushed on). Paint was considered
expensive. Took a lot of applications to get any whiteness but many of those
structures were over 100 years old soild and free of rot. Seems that the
lime-wash was permeable/breathable. I'm not sure our vinyl clad housing will
last as long. Despite modern vapour barriers inside some already have rot
under the vinyl cladding.
Sorry for length of this but a few ideas that seem to have worked in
practice since the late 1950s!
jjl
aluminum siding...also. wash the siding about a week or so before, gives the
paint something nice and clean to attach to.
test in an inconspicous area to see if you need a primer first. about half
of the siding used needs it, so you may want t test, or just prime the
siding.
good luck.
jjl
"Apple Jacks" <a...@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
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jim
jjl wrote:
> go with a light color...dark colors absorb the heat and warp vinyl and
> aluminum siding...also. wash the siding about a week or so before, gives the
> paint something nice and clean to attach to.
> test in an inconspicous area to see if you need a primer first. about half
> of the siding used needs it, so you may want t test, or just prime the
> siding.
> good luck.
If painting vinyl siding you need to go with a color that is the same
shade as the orig. Wash / scrub your siding with tsp. This cleans the
siding and removes the protective sheen that is on the siding allowing
the paint to bond. Though tsp is the most important step it is a
sulpher compound and is very caustic. The safety precautions are
written on the carton but they don't tell you that if oversprayed on
windows it will cause the glass to turn milky which cannot be reversed.
If you don't use the tsp the paint will flake off. Rinse the tsp well -
never spray from the ground up - underneath as this will drip water
during and long after the paint job causing streaks. Some paint shops
reccom. using a pressure washer - this is a no no on the siding if you
intend on painting anytime soon after the cleaning for the dripping
reasons.
Never use a primer on vinyl siding as primer will not expand and
contract with the siding. Use 100% acylic paint only for the same
reason as no primer. Be sure to get in under / between the overlapping
siding joints at least 1/2 inch as it will expand that much showing the
orig. siding color. Pending your siding color be prepared to apply at
least 3 coats to cover fully if you intend to use a lighter color than
whats on it now.
jjl
windows...a simple mild soapy solution, applied with a garden hose
applicator, will work, or go to kents or chesters and get a bottle of siding
wash, this and a deck brush on a pole will do a nice job...and btw...ALWAYS
start at the bottom of the house when washing siding...if you start at the
top, the solution runs down the siding and causes streaks in the siding
below it...very hard to get out...as for primer, I have personally painted
about 60 houses in the St. John's area that have vinyl siding on them...and
for the most part, a thin coat of primer gives a much better finished job.
talk to wayne fost at the paint shop on campbell avenue, trust his
judgment...he knows paint, and how to apply it.
for a piss poor job to view, go to carrington drive and look for the dark
green house on the right about three quarters of the way up...the
intersection past sheffield I believe..quite a mess..dark paint...warped the
siding in less than a week.
jjl
"jim" <rob...@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:1124156164.7...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
jim
jjl wrote:
> problem with tsp jim, is that it eats the rubber seals around the newer
> windows...a simple mild soapy solution, applied with a garden hose
> applicator, will work, or go to kents or chesters and get a bottle of siding
> wash, this and a deck brush on a pole will do a nice job...and btw...ALWAYS
> start at the bottom of the house when washing siding...if you start at the
> top, the solution runs down the siding and causes streaks in the siding
> below it...very hard to get out...as for primer, I have personally painted
> about 60 houses in the St. John's area that have vinyl siding on them...and
> for the most part, a thin coat of primer gives a much better finished job.
> talk to wayne fost at the paint shop on campbell avenue, trust his
> judgment...he knows paint, and how to apply it.
> for a piss poor job to view, go to carrington drive and look for the dark
> green house on the right about three quarters of the way up...the
> intersection past sheffield I believe..quite a mess..dark paint...warped the
> siding in less than a week.
> jjl
Funny you should mention Wayne as he helped me pick the paint color,
warned me not to use primer and gave me the advice on the tsp -
Oopah
up paint. I could see primer used on bare wood but certainly not vinyl. I
can see a light color working as it wouldn't attract the sun's heat as much.news:1124205893....@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Snipe
know who/which method is correct. You both seem to know a great deal about
this subject and have both been to the same "expert" for advice (albeit
conflicting advice.).
So, which is the correct way to paint siding? And, will it flake and have
to be repainted like wood at some point in the future?
thanks
snipe
"jim" <rob...@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:1124205893....@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
TechFirst
put on glossy surfaces that would allow the paint to adhere better. It was
called suregrip by Pitsburg paint. It was awesome. I'm sure you could get
something similar (maybe that will even work) to go on vinyl siding.
"Oopah" <where...@skippy.com> wrote in message
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