[Om Shanti Om 1080p Dual Audio English Hindi
Everardo Laboy
I have an LPS 1.2 but I have not compared it to the Shanti Supercap. What I do not like of the Shanti is the form factor and the captive cables. Still, especially for powering Allo devices, the Shanti seems a very good proposition. You can find some more information on the Shanti in this forum at
The Uptone LPS 1.2 seems more mechanical, more muted and with less resolution than the shanti 1A output. Shanti just seems more musical and released. With the LPS I want to turn the volume up and with the shanti I don't feel so, so there seems to be no placebo effect and I have switched back and forth many times with very little time between only swapping the dc cables. And same results every time.
Have done some more testing now with the shanti and as I have gotten better equipment else in the hifi-chain I now prefer the 3A over the 1A output of the shanti to the IFI Ipurifier SPDIF reclocker. Less noise, more dynamic, more musical - overall better. The streamer is Bluesound Node 2i and dac is Hegel HD25. Theroretically it shouldnt matter because the IFI ipurifier only needs 500mA but it is actually very obvious if the rest of the system is good and transparent. As the Allo DigiOne Signature only needs power of maybe 50mA or something this doesnt need to be the case here.
Anyway the shanti ps needs to be vibration decoupled from the underneath or it is just ok/good imo, not very good. And it needs vibration absorption on the top to be at a very very good level. I myself use some sorbothane hemispheres bought from ebay with some weight on them on top. Sorbothane with 50 shore density is very vibration absorbing. And of course the venting holes must not be blocked.
I have also tried the LPS 1.2 on the Allo DigiOne Signature and it was much worse than shanti on the clean power on the DigiOne. But as I wrote over the shanti needs to be vibration controlled and decoupled.
I have 2 Shanti here in daily use, powering a USBBridge Signature in each of my 2 setups. I like them a lot and feel in that appication they compete with much more expensive commercial units and my over the top DIY efforts.
I did compare them with some LPS-1.2 setups (LPS-1.2 singly and 2 paralleled via a dual-section MPAudio 3-paralleled LT3045 board) and found it was roughly equivalent in my opinion with some tradeoffs. AND definitely less expensive!
To definitively beat the Shanti for powering DAC / digital interface cards and USBBridge Signature's, I have to use supplies that float-charge a pair of 325F Ultracaps as the final output buffer. These sound amazing, but are clearly expert-level supplies that have to be pre-charged before use and require a lot of care in use lest one blow up either the charging power supply or what is being powered. IF you have to have it explained to you, you really don't want to use them. They are THAT challenging!
LOL... I agree with @nbpf on the form factor and captive cables, BUT I also don't expect much in and from a $160USD power supply with 2 outputs. In that context, I think the Shanti produces an amazing performance at the price, punches WAY above its weight class, and recognize that a more convenient form factor and better cables would have likely increased the cost and may have compromised performance.
I am looking to get a Usbridge Sig to replace a pure RPI 4 as my Roon bridge. This feeds to a Topping D50s DAC feeding my Hypex ncore power amp/KEF LS50 speakers. I am debating about the Shanti which almost doubles the cost here in Europe.
I currently power my D50s and the RPI from a powerbank that outputs 5.1A on it's two USB ports. I feel this is giving a good result. Not sure if at this level of setup (I am a novice in this space and just starting up), the Shanti will make a difference?
I need to buy a galvanic isolator, linear power supply for my FS DAC.
I had chosen the Allo shanti but then noticed that it is only 5V rated, I asume it will not work with my DAC.
Will it? OR can anyone recommend a suitable alternative?
I have my whole system unplugged at the moment because I have a "Ground loop" problem so a "Galvanic bridge" is part of of my solution measures.
Thanks for the reply .
So I need to look for another Couse [Connection] for the problem?
As soon as termed on the ADI-2 DAC FS a banner appeared saying a non audio signal detected and when I touched it I got a shock so I have heard it for less than 2 seconds since I bought it.
Given what you said I think it could be via the inter connect to the integrated amp.
It did take me some time to realise I had a Ground Loop problem.
I am going back to a previously rejected mains ring (due to excessive line noise), for convenience AND so I'm taking all my power from one line.
I have ordered An Ethernet "Galvanic Bridge."
I have bought Shielded Mains cable for my amp.
All my power will be drawn through a surge protector/regulator.
Now you can test all devices individually for excessive mains stray voltage.
If the electric shock you experienced was strong, only use an electricians screwdriver with built in neon lamp.
Sadly the allo shanti order has been cancelled as it the supplier said it only comes with a 5V dc out.
I have just ordered an ifi mains ground bridge for my amp and a rca interconnect ground loop preventer.
One of the things the allo shanti would have given me is a grounding point for my other equipment.
I think your right about needing to ground my Prima Luna 100 Integrated amp but I haven't been able to finde out what to do exactly .
1) where do you ground too? my metal framed unit has plastic feet.
2) can I/ should I ground my other equipment; Fitzwillium radio (Not the new model), turn table or the wiim pro?
Once again thanks for replying .It can be hard to find stuff out if you live alone and are pree computer generation (And Dyslexic)
All I knew before I started all this is that I wanted a clean sounding sound system.
To your points:
1)No carpet, linoleum tiles (concrete ground floor).
2)UK 230V which I was taking from one Tacima current regulator etc. extension lead but will be using two from now on.
3) verry mild tingle shock ,not strong.
Note also that the system (separates) will be the only only things plugged into the whole ring , but I live in a tenement so I had previously given up on it because as officially a heater ring other peoples central heating caused a lot of noise. (but no ground loop as far as I know ,though I did not have so many components).
Not being shore what to do I'm was planning to go back to the heater ring but this time with hundreds of pounds of shielded cables, ground loop defence and an Ethernet grounding bridge etc. unless you know better.
Thanks.
Thanks I will take your basic point of connecting things bit by bit as you described ,however I have given you the wrong idea, when I last had my system plugged in I had no ground bridges, conditioners, fancy cables or power regulators except for the tacima extension lead that you may be aware of.
I realise that I may have gone to far in buying all these things, I just wanted to be shore that when I did risk plugging things back in I had protections in place, even if I did not necessarily expect to use them all.
I thought start with possibly too many and remove them one by one until I had a good resalt with out too much stuff.
I would like to know haw to ground my amp as I really don't know what to do. Apart from the Earth pin on the plug what else can you do? My Prima Luna does have the optional extra Phono unit that is attached under the amp which does have a grounding point on it, can I use that or is it turn table specific?
I know it sounds stupid but because I bought the amp "EX display" I don't know if that is just the external shell of the phono input to show people what it would look like or if it is a functioning unit I have not yet tried it.
A friend did say it can't do any harm to try it so I will.
At the moment I have/had the turn table connected via an ordinary input, is that a probable Couse of my ground loop?
PS if this was real life I would have offered you a bear or bsquets if that is more your thing ,but all I can do is say thanks again.
Thanks for the advice I'll try it soon . It is physically exhausting for an old man like me, so I need to be in condition (Back pain, etc).
I will let you know when it is dun or if I need to ask something else .
Postscript, I never did finde out what I did that solved my problem. In the end I take all my power form one twin socket, that I think eliminated ground loop conditions and added one galvanic bridge at my amp and one at the ethernet source, before I dared plug in again and have had no problems since.
First, I have to thank all the designers who were brave enough to participate in this shootout. I received no compensation for this review and the only ones I purchased were the SBooster and HDPlex 300W. This shootout was just done out of sheer curiosity. Also, a huge thank you to the fan who was gracious enough to loan me his Sean Jacobs DC4.
Secondly, know that none of these power supplies are perfect. Some will work better in darker, brighter, or flat systems. And some just pair better with specific equipment. Generally, my opinions here were very consistent across the various pieces of gear I evaluated. If one power supply were thick and dense with a specific DAC, it was also relatively thicker and denser on a USB PCI card. My goal is to help point you in the right direction.
Since this is a power supply review, a lot of time is spent powering on and off these components. I have to wait for the OS to boot or the amplifier to completely shut off (when evaluating DACs). So in many ways, much more time-consuming than the power cable shootout I did a while back. Ranking them was also very difficult. Some power supplies had a very similar level of bass so required more listening. This also goes for resolution, soundstage, etc.
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