Bangkok To Ban Klong Luk Border

[Sabel Kantah]

Eachyear when I visit my papermaking friends in the littlevillages of Burma and Thailand, I explain that my research insoutheast Asia is finished, and that I may not be returning.Invariably, however, something exciting or unusual happens thatbrings me back yet another time to these places. This occurred againlast November in Northern Thailand, when I met a remarkablepapermaker. Here is the story.

In the past several years I had been disappointed with handpapermaking in Thailand. The "Papermakers of Southern Siam," whowere the subject of one of Dard Hunter's books, published in 1936,were no longer involved in making paper to be used for importantdocuments of the government and the royal family of Thailand. Thetwo daughters of Luolin Niltongkum, young girls when Dard Hunterphotographed the family, decided that papermaking was too arduous ajob, and now their husbands could support them. They hoped thattheir moulds and tools would be acquired by the royal family anddisplayed in a museum. Donna Koretsky [the author's daughter, also aprofessional papermaker] and I documented [on videotape] their lastdays of papermaking in 1986 and 1987. Subsequently, I presented aprogram about them at a Dard Hunter meeting in Appleton, includingmy own efforts at making paper in a klong (canal) while the Thaipapermakers sat on the banks of the klong, laughing hysterically atmy ineptness.

Another notable papermaker I met was Chanda Photi and his family,in the tiny village of Bon Mai Mok Jam, close to the Burmese border.Dorothy Field spent considerable time there (see: A Gathering ofPapermakers, and Bull & Branch [newsletter of theFriends of Dard Hunter], August 1996). In 1991, when I visited,Chanda Photi was primarily making thin paper for the wrapping ofopium, and thicker paper for accordion-fold books, used for therecording of prayers, astrology and tattoo designs. This type ofpaper is made throughout the Shan plateau, a vast area encompassingparts of both Thailand and Burma.

The other papermakers of northern Thailand (there was no one Icould find in southern Thailand other than the Niltongkum family)were making paper either for paper umbrellas or for the touristtrade. The paper was carelessly made, in the sense that the fiberwas not well cleaned after cooking. Generally, chlorine bleach wasadded to the fiber while it was being beaten, so that all theimpurities were whitened rather than removed. The papermakers weremaking paper that would be suitable for sale to tourists,incorporating flowers into the paper, and using chemical dyes tocreate brightly colored sheets. The method of papermaking innorthern Thailand represents an adaptation of their originaltechnique of pouring pulp onto a floating mould. The papermakers hadfigured out that a mould could be dipped into the vat of pulp, thesheet of paper forming immediately on the screen. The paper is notcouched, however. As in the floating mould technique, the entiremould, with its wet sheet of paper, is left to dry in the sun.

But last November I met Supan Promsen, a young man intenselyinterested in preserving the old heritage and methods of Thaipapermaking. There were at least three areas that impressed me somuch about Supan. First, he is keenly involved in the exploration ofThailand's indigenous fibers, including "khoi" (Streblusasper), originally the fiber of choice for Thai papermakers.Secondly, he has studied the problems of permanence and durabilityof paper, and is determined to produce paper that is archival. Andfinally, I realized that Supan has a keen sense of new directionsfor handmade paper that transcend the kitschy "flower papers" of hiscompatriots. I was blown over by a large artist's sketchbook he hadmade. The book measures 16.5" x 25" x 2.4"; the sewn binding isextremely well done; and the cover papers are truly clever in theirdesign. Most importantly, the sheets of paper are even andconsistent, showing a mastery of technique that other northern Thaipapermakers do not try to achieve.

I have been in contact with Supan upon my return to the U.S., andhe has agreed to teach a workshop at his studio in Thailand for asmall group of people. It will be a full three days in November, fora maximum of eight persons. Each person will receive 2 pounds ofprocessed fiber and a bamboo mould, 20" x 27.5". Supan prepared anoutline of work, as follows:

The program at Supan's workshop will be part of a three-weekexpedition starting in Bangkok to see the glittering Royal Palaceand the ornate wats (temples). Next we fly to Rangoon, Burma,to visit the Shwedagon Pagoda, the most impressive religiousstructure in all of southeast Asea. Then we're off to Mandalay,where we see the wonders of this old capital city, and we travel byoxcart to visit the rice straw papermakers of Nyaung Gone and thebamboo papermakers of Daung Ma. The final stop in Burma is Taunggyi,where we witness the exciting festival of handmade paper "fireballoons" on the full moon day of November. The dates of theexpedition are Nov. 1 to 22, 1997. For information, call or write:Elaine Koretsky, Carriage House Paper, 8 Evans Road, Brookline, MA02146; tel: 617/232-1636; fax: 617/277-7719; e-mail: PAPER RO...@aol.com.

Arrive in Bangkok at any time. Due to the potential for flight delays or cancellations, we recommend that you plan to arrive in Thailand at least a day in advance. This will also give you time to rest and adjust to any time difference. We can book extra hotel nights for you in Bangkok before the trip. Relax, explore the city, and adjust to the frantic pace and humid heat of Bangkok.Please note that check-in at the hotel is usually around 2:00-3:00 p.m. There are no planned activities until an intro meeting around 6:00 or 7:00 p.m., usually in the hotel lobby. Check for a sign or ask at the reception desk about the exact time and location of the group meeting. At this meeting, your tour leader will check that you have a visa for Vietnam. (Please note that you MUST arrive with either a Vietnam visa or pre-approval visa on arrival. Please refer to the visa information section of these trip notes for more information on obtaining a visa for Vietnam; GEEO will also share instructions to the group several weeks prior to departure.) Please make every effort to arrive in time for your welcome meeting. If you are delayed and will arrive late, please inform us. Your tour leader will then leave you a message at the front desk informing you of where and when to meet up tomorrow.After the meeting, you might choose to get dinner at a nearby restaurant with your traveling companions and your tour leader to further get to know one another. Our hotel is located in Chinatown next to the central train station and MRT (subway) and is only a short taxi ride from Khao San Road and the central shopping area of Siam Square, MBK, Siam Paragon, etc.Accommodation: Hotel Royal Bangkok @ Chinatown (or similar)* For the actual hotel your specific departure will be using, please check your voucher.

Enjoy a one-hour long-tail boat tour on Bangkok's busy Chao Phraya River and through the famous klongs, or canals, of western Bangkok's Thonburi district. Our boat trip finishes at the Royal Temple of Wat Po. Our included guide will introduce you to Thai Buddhist culture and show you the famous reclining Buddha. When your guided tour ends there will still be time for some afternoon shopping, a visit to the Grand Palace or a stroll through the backpacker area. We will meet back at the hotel within easy walking distance to the train station where we board our overnight train to Chiang Mai.Tonight's accommodation is an overnight sleeper train. Beds are dormitory-style, with bunks on two layers along the side of the train carriage. There are curtains along each bunk for privacy. Your luggage will be accessible during the journey. The train has air-conditioning and clean bedding is provided for each bunk. There are both Western-style and Asian style toilets at the end of each carriage. Food and drinks are served on the train but you can always bring your own food from the shops and restaurants in the train station.Please Note: Due to disruptions of Thai trains in the north during the monsoon season, we may end up needing to use alternative transport.Approximate travel time: 12 hours on overnight train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.Accommodation: Overnight trainMeals included: Breakfast

We cross the river border today to Laos by small local boats to Ban Houay Xai and Lao Immigration. Once we have completed the immigration process we take a songthaew (local bus) to our traditional slow boat. As we travel down the Mekong River, you will slowly adjust to the relaxed pace of life in Laos. This predominantly mountainous country has unsurpassed views of the riverside villages, the tropical jungle, and the mountains.Our private boat is reasonably comfortable and spacious. A toilet is available onboard. Fruit, tea and coffee, are provided free of charge for you to enjoy. Other drinks, such as water and soft drinks are all available for purchase on the boat.We overnight in Muang Pakbng village, a stopover for local traders heading to Luang Prabang. For travelers, the town offers an interesting vibe and a good introduction to Laos. Our guesthouse is located some 200 meters from the pier.Approximate travel time: 30 minutes by private vehicle, 8-10 hours by riverboat depending on river conditions.Accommodation: Mekong Riverside Lodge (or similar)

Continue down the Mekong for most of the day. We approach Luang Prabang in the late afternoon. Before arriving, we will make a stop outside of town at the Pak Ou caves. This dramatic cave houses thousands of Buddha statues and images and is considered an important spiritual sight by many Lao people. After our visit, we re-board the boat and continue to Luang Prabang, arriving around 5 pm. Located at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers, Luang Prabang is one of the loveliest towns in the whole of Southeast Asia.Approximate travel time: 8-10 hours by boat depending on river conditions.Accommodation: Treasure Hotel (or similar)Meals included: Breakfast

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