Thanksgiving in New Orleans (long)
Edward J. Branley
© 1995, Edward J. Branley
Dedication
This article (and its accompanying web page on Virtually New Orleans) is
dedicated to Mr. Frank Davis of WWL-TV, Channel 4 in New Orleans. Frank
is the star of "Naturally New Orleans," a bi-weekly segment he does on
the evening news on Channel 4. An accomplished chef, Frank also does bi-
weekly segments on the Channel 4 Morning Show. This morning show is so
popular
locally that Channel 4 (the local CBS affiliate) doesn’t pick up the CBS
Morning Show. Each year in November on the morning show, Frank Davis
does a series of cooking segments called "Franksgiving," where he cooks up
lots of the country, Cajun, and Creole recipes that we all enjoy in New
Orleans. It’s a wonderful spot, and sadly missed this year, since Frank is
recovering from heart surgery and some complications that followed that
surgery.
Look for a "heart healthy" Frank Davis cookbook sometime in the coming year,
no doubt. :-) Anyway, Frank’s "Naturally New Orleans" spots are part of
the spiritual inspiration for Virtually New Orleans, my city guide on the
web. This is my way of letting Frank know he’s missed, and how much we’re
looking forward to his return to the tube.
Introduction
Thanksgiving is only one of two days where it's common practice in
New Orleans for families to watch a parade on television. The Macy's
parade never ceases to amaze local kids because it's all those people are
out on the streets and nobody's throwing anything to them. Still, the
balloons are fun, and there's the occasional year when there's a local band
marching down Broadway. Thanksgiving is a relatively quiet day in
New Orleans. Kids in schools in the metro area traditionally have the
entire week off, so it's the fourth day they're home. Some families
take advantage of the school downtime to take a fall vacation; others
get things ready for the invasion of out-of-town relatives. New Orleans
is still very much a destination city, a place people come home to.
Those who still live here, be they parents, brothers, sister, or cousins,
are charged with making things ready for the family.Which, of course, brings
us to the subject of food. Gorging ourselves on Thanksgiving is a national
pastime. That makes it different here is that we do it with such style.
We don't differ much from the traditional turkey-with-all-the-trimmings
dinner you find from Main to California, but the differences are delicious.
We're not beneath a fad or two as well.
Fads -- The TurDuckHen
Turkey. Duck. Chicken. Put them together and you get a TurDuckHen. The
first time I heard of this dish was about ten years ago when Paul Prudhomme
was making his rise to fame and fortune. He was on TV this time of year
back then talking about this traditional Cajun dish. I'd never heard of it
(if you have knowledge of this earlier than the '80s, please drop me a line).
That's neither here or there by now; the dish is now a part of New Orleans.
It works like this: get one of each, a turkey, a duck, and a roasting hen.
Bone each one. Yup, that's right, bone them. Rub them inside and out with
herbs and spices (bet you can't guess what the primary spice is in
Prudhomme's version). Stuff the chicken. Put the stuffed chicken inside the
duck. Put the chicken/duck combination inside the turkey. Bake several
hours until done. The idea is the the flavors from the three different
types of fowl, along with the seasonings and stuffing all blend together.
It's overkill in the worst way, which is the perfect way to give thanks for
an abundant harvest. Since Prudhomme gave this dish life, lots of
variations have popped up. The most interesting I've heard of is an Italian
deli on the west bank that does the three-bird combo with lots of sweet
basil, several Italian cheeses, and tomato sauce. Sounds decadent.
Country Traditional - The Deep-Fried Turkey
Take a beer keg and cut the top off, so the keg is essentially a
very large, tough pot. Fill that pot with cooking oil and put it on top
of a propane burner, the type you use for a crawfish boil. Heat that
oil up to frying temperature, and drop in a turkey that has been rubbed with
salt, pepper, and a little seasoning. The end result: a crispy-fried
skin with juicy meat on the inside. I first discovered this dish a couple
of years ago working at a client site in Norco. Definitely an outdoors,
country sort of thing to do. You don’t just heat up a keg full of oil to
frying temperature in your backyard. This is one of those "don’t try
this at home" dishes.
Creole Thanksgiving Dishes
We do the turkey thing here, of course, but it’s the side dishes
that make for a Creole Thanksgiving. Everybody’s momma has one dish or
another that makes its annual appearance on either Thanksgiving or
Christmas.
Appetizers
We always begin a meal in New Orleans with something to pick on.
When the whole family is gathered, that’s a great time for one of your
sisters or cousins to try out some sort of hors d’oeurve that she’s been
wanting to do for a while. These usually include a hot crab dip,
cold shrimp spread and artichoke balls.
Soup
In spite of the fact that the words "soup" and "gumbo" are almost
interchangeable here, many families here choose a different soup
for special occasions like Thanksgiving. There are two main reasons
for this: First, you’re usually preparing a lot of food for a number
of people, so it’s easier to make a simple soup rather than a gumbo.
Second, we eat gumbo all year ‘round. Popular soups for
Thanksgiving include a cream of vegetable soup, like cream of broccoli or
cream of asparagus, or perhaps an oyster-artichoke soup. The
gumbo comes after Thanksgiving, when you’ve got leftovers to get rid of.
That’s when it’s time for turkey gumbo.
Da Bird
In his cookbook The Frugal Gourmet Cooks With Wine, Jeff Smith
(who, by the way, is my favorite TV chef) says that New Orleanians use more
thyme, Worcestershire sauce, and Tabasco (although we locals prefer the
more generic term "hot sauce.") than just about any other place on the
planet. If you want to do a New Orleans-style turkey, liberal use of these
three ingredients would not be that far off the mark. Others use
cayenne pepper, some add a bit of sweet basil for an Italian touch. These
are the
most common flavors you’ll find in our cooking, so it’s natural you’ll
find them in the turkey.
Stuffing
The most popular variation on the traditional meal is in the
stuffing. Instead of a standard ground-meat or cornbread stuffing, many New
Orleanians do an oyster dressing. Some are based on bread crumbs,
others on cornbread, but they’re usually spicy and chockfull of oysters.
Another popular stuffing uses andouille sausage or tasso instead of
regular ham. Still others make "dirty rice" and give up on bread crumbs
altogether.
Vegetables
Thanksgiving dinners are often family efforts, where folks make
something at home and bring it with them. That’s why you see a lot of
casseroles, vegetables au gratin, and other "made dishes." Common this time
of year are sweet potato or green bean casserole and cauliflower au gratin.
Bread
"Ooh, la Leidenheimer’s,
That’s what I said.
Ooh, la Leidenheimer’s,
That’s French for ‘bread.’"
That about sums up the bread situation, unless you prefer bread
from "That wonderfully stubborn Reising family."
Dessert.
It’s pie. The traditional dessert here is pecan pie, although
some transplanted Yankees may choose pumpkin pie. Those who find pecan
pie too sweet may opt for a lemon meringue or chocolate whip-top.
Coffee
With chicory, of course.
The Recipes
Hot Crab Spread
1 tablespoon milk
1 (8oz) package cream cheese at room temp.
1 (8oz) can flaked crab meat
2 tablespoons minced green onion
½ teaspoon horseradish
¼ teaspoon salt
pepper to taste
dash of Tabasco
1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted
Crackers
In a bowl blend together the milk and cream cheese. Mix in the
next six ingredients. Transfer the mixture to an ovenproof dish and
sprinkle the top with the almonds. Bake the dish at 350F until the mixture
bubbles. Serve the spread with crackers. Makes one pint.
Cold Shrimp Spread
1 (8oz) package cream cheese at room temp.
1 lemon, juiced
2 pounds boiled shrimp, peeled, deveined, and coarsely ground
10 green onions, minced
1 cup mayonnaise
salt and pepper to taste
Worcestershire sauce to taste
Tabasco to taste
Zatarain’s liquid crab boil to taste (see note!)
In a bowl, soften the cream cheese with the lemon juice. Add the
shrimp, green onion, and mayonnaise. Season the mixture with the
remaining ingredients and mix well. Refrigerate the dip for 2 hours.
NOTE: Adding liquid crab boil to this dish gives it a unique and
spicy flavor, but be very careful and don’t add more than a couple of
drops. Liquid crab boil is very concentrated and extremely spicy!
Artichoke Balls
2-3 cloves garlic, mashed
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 (14oz) can artichoke hearts, drained and mashed
2 eggs, well beaten
1 ½ cups seasoned bread crumbs
1 cup Parmesan or Romano cheese
salt and pepper to taste
In a skillet sauté the garlic in the olive oil. Add the artichoke
hearts and simmer for 2 minutes. Fold in the eggs and simmer for 2
minutes. Add the bread crumbs and cook for 2 minutes. Remove the mixture
from
the heat, add the cheese, mix well, and cool. When the mixture is cool,
form it into bite-size balls. Roll the balls in the bread crumbs and bake
them
at 350F for 10 minutes. Makes 24.
Cream of Broccoli Soup
1 medium onion, chopped
3 tablespoons butter
1 (10oz) package broccoli, cooked and drained
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
4 tablespoons flour
2 cups chicken stock (room temperature)
2 cups half-and-half cream (at room temperature)
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
Lemon-pepper, garlic, and cayenne to taste
Parsley, chopped
In a heavy pot saute the onion in butter until limp. Add the
broccoli and parsley and simmer for about three minutes, stirring, to prevent
scorching. Sprinkle the mixture with the flour and stir until the flour is
absorbed, approximately 2 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a blender. Add
enough chicken stock to fill blender ¾ capacity and blend until
liquefied. Return the blended mixture to the pan and add the remaining
liquids and
the seasonings. Simmer the soup for 5 minutes. Served hot, garnished
with parsley. Serves 6.
Cream of Asparagus Soup
1 large bunch asparagus (50 spears)
1 large onion, chopped
2 tablespoons butter
7 cups chicken stock
½ teaspoon lemon juice
2 cups half-and-half cream
salt and pepper to taste
Trim tough ends off asparagus. Steam asparagus until crisp
tender. Trim off tips, about 1 to 1 ½ inches and set aside. Saute onions
in butter, add stock, lemon juice and asparagus spears and simmer,
uncovered, for about 20 minutes. Remove asparagus with slotted spoon and
place in blender with about half of the water. Puree and pour back into
pot. Add cream, salt and pepper, and asparagus tips and heat to serve.
Garnish with mint. Serves 8.
Oyster and Artichoke Soup
1/2 cup butter
2 bunches green onions, chopped
3 ribs celery, chopped
3 cloves garlic, pressed
2 (14 oz) cans artichoke hearts, washed, drained, and quartered
3 tablespoons flour
1- 1 1/2 quarts chicken stock
Cayenne to taste
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon thyme
1 quart oysters, drained and chopped (reserve liquor)
1/3 cup sherry
1 cup half-and-half cream
1 cup milk
In a heavy 4-quart pot melt the butter over medium heat. Add the
green onion, celery, and garlic and sauté until soft. Add the
artichokes. Sprinkle the mixture with the flour and stir to coat the
vegetables well, but do not let the flour brown. Gradually add the stock,
stirring
constantly. Add the cayenne, salt, Worcestershire sauce, and
thyme. Simmer the mixture, covered, for 1 hour. Add the oysters, oyster
liquor, and sherry and simmer for 10 minutes. Do not allow the soup to
boil. Stir in the cream and milk. Cool and refrigerate for at least 8
hours. Before serving, heat the soup slowly over low heat. Serves 8
bowls or 16 cups.
Turkey Gumbo
1 turkey carcass
2 turkey legs or thighs
½ cup bacon grease
½ cup cooking oil
1 cup flour
8 ribs celery, chopped
3 large onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bell pepper, chopped
½ cup chopped parsley
1 pound okra, sliced
1 cup smoked sausage, sliced (may substitute andouille)
12 cup Worcestershire sauce
Tabasco to taste
1 (12oz) can tomatoes
1 ½ tablespoons salt
4 slices bacon, cut in 1-inch pieces
1-2 bay leaves
cayenne to taste
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
4 cups rice, cooked
Crack the turkey carcass into several pieces. Place the turkey
carcass and legs in a soup kettle with 3 quarts of water and 1 teaspoon
salt. Boil for 1 hour. Remove the carcass and legs and cool. Remove
the meat from the bones and discard the bones. Reserve the stock and meat.
In a heavy Dutch oven over medium heat, heat the grease and oil. Add
the flour, stirring constantly, and cook until dark golden brown. Add the
celery, onion, bell pepper, garlic, and parsley. Cook for 15 to 20
minutes, stirring constantly. Add the okra and sausage and continue
cooking for 5 minutes. Add 2 quarts of the turkey stock and 2 quarts of
water, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, tomatoes, salt, bacon, bay leaves,
and cayenne. Simmer, covered, for 2 ½ to 3 hours, stirring
occasionally. Add the turkey meat and simmer for 30 minutes. Just before
serving, add the brown sugar and lemon juice. Serve in heated gumbo bowls
over rice. Serves 16-18.
Oyster Dressing
½ cup cooking oil
6 large onions, chopped
4 large cloves garlic, chopped
6 dozen oysters, drained (reserve liquor)
2 (8oz) packages Pepperidge Farm herb seasonsed stuffing mix
1 cup celery, chopped
1 cup bell pepper, chopped
1/2 cup parsley, chopped
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup butter
salt and pepper to taste
In a Dutch oven, heat the oil. Add the onions and garlic and
sauté over medium heat until browned. Add the drained oysters and cook
until the edges curl. Add the stuffing mix and oyster liquor.
The mixture should be moist. If there is not sufficient oyster
liquor, add a small amount of water. Add the celery, bell pepper,
parsley, eggs, butter, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, for
20 minutes, adding water as necessary to maintain a moist
consistency. Makes enough stuffing for a 18-22 pound turkey.
Dirty Rice
4 tablespoons cooking oil
1 lb. Chicken gizzards
½ lb. Pork liver
½ lb. Chicken livers
2 pods garlic, chopped fine
3 medium onions, chopped fine
2 pieces celery, cut fine
1 medium bell pepper, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
1 pint oysters (optional)
3-4 cups cooked rice
Grind gizzards and pork meat. Cook this mixture in acooking oil
until brown, then add garlic, onions, and celery and let brown a while.
Cut liver into small pieces and add to mixture. Add a little water
and a small amount of roux (2-3 tablespoons) and let cook until done.
Add water as needed. Before adding rice, add onion tops and parsley,
then seafood (if used). Then add rice. Don stir too much after rise
is in because grains will break.
Sweet Potato Casserole
3 cups mashed (hot) sweet potatoes
¼ cup melted butter
½ cup brown sugar
¼ cup orange juice
¼ cup chopped pecans
¼ cup grated coconut
2 cups mashed bananas
Mix above ingredients except for bananas. Place half the potatoes
in 8-inch shallow baking dish. Cover with bananas and other half
of potato mixture. Top with crumbled corn flakes and ½ cup of the
brown sugar. Dot with butter. Bake 25 minutes at 275F.
Green Bean Casserole
3 pkg. Frozen French cut green beans
2 cans French fried onions
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1 can cream of asparagus soup
1 c shredded Americn cheese
1 can water chestnuts, sliced
2 tablespoons soy sauce
Cook green beans as directed on package, drain well. Combine the
two soups, soy sauce and the sliced water chestnuts. Add pepper, but
no salt, as soup and soy sauce are already salty. Mix well with
green beans. Put layer into 2 ½ quart rectangular Pyrex dish. Add can of
French fried onions and half of the shredded cheese. Add remaining beans,
can
of onions and the remaining cheese. Bake in 350F oven about 25
minutes.
Cauliflower au Gratin
1 cauliflower
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup half-and-half cream
½ cup grated Gruyere cheese
salt and pepper to taste
Cook cauliflower in a little water in a covered saucepan until
fork tender but not overcooked. In a small saucepan, melt butter and
add flour; stir to combine. Gradually add cream, stirring constantly.
Cook over low heat, stirring constantly until sauce thickens. Add
Gruyere and salt and pepper. Place over cauliflower in a
casserole dish. Shortly before serving, bake at 400F until bubbly and top
is slightly brown.
Pecan Pie
½ cup butter
¾ cup light brown sugar
2 tablespoons flour
3 eggs, slightly beaten
1 cup light Karo syrup
dash of salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup pecans
1 (9 inch) pie shell, unbaked
In a large bowl cream together the butter, brown sugar, and flour.
Add the eggs and beat the mixture until it is smooth. Mix in the
syrup, salt, and vanilla. Spread the pecans in the bottom of the
unbaked pie shell and pour the mixture over them. Bake the pie at
350F for 45 minutes. Cool the pie for 1 hour. Serves 6-8.
Pumpkin Pie
4 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon each ground mace, cinnamon and allspice
1 tablespoon butter
2 cups pumpkin, cooked, or 1 15oz can
1 tablespoon brandy
8 tablespoons Louisiana cane syrup
1 12oz can evaporated milk
1 10-inch pie shell, unbaked
Confectioners’ sugar
In mixer or by hand, beat eggs until fluffy. Mix together
dry ingredients and gradually add to eggs. Mix well. Melt butter
and add to mixture along with pumpkin, brandy, and cane syrup.
Mix well. Blend in milk and pour into pie shell and bake in preheated
400F oven for 30 minutes. Put a foil collar around crust edges to keep
from burning and continue baking for 25 to 30 minutes, until a
toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool and sprinkle with
confectioners’ sugar or whipped cream to serve. Makes one pie.
Comments are always welcome! E-mail: ele...@yatcom.com
Happy Thanksgiving,
Ed.
--
Edward J. Branley, ele...@yatcom.com |Listowner, New Orleans Mailing List
Yatcom Communications, +1.504.455.5087 |To join, send a message to:
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Kight
Happy
Holidays from the Carraways. >
Frank is recovering from bypass surgery. This morning on the early morning
show on WWL, a Thanksgiving cooking segment featuring Frank was rerun. It
starts off, "First, you put 4 tablespoons of butter in the pan, not
margarine, not Pam, but butter."
Yes, that is Natraly NwOlins.
Ki...@aol.com