Burn In Test Pro 7.1 Serial
Anna Pybus
BurnInTest includes the ability to have multiple test configurations for different hardware and automation can be done via dozens of command line arguments and an inbuilt scripting language. It is also possible to develop your own test modules and integrate them into BurnInTest).
All the test modules can be either run in parallel or individually. Running in parallel increases system load, shortens the burn in period and helps find subtle faults. It is also possible to individual adjust the duty cycle of each test module.
Test results can be outputted in a variety of formats including text and HTML. The software can product test certificates customized by the user, debugging logs and also includes extensive system information such as CPU & GPU temperatures, disk and memory serial numbers.
BurnInTest tests the CPU, hard drives, SSDs, RAM, optical drives (CD, DVD and Blu-ray), sound cards,graphics cards (GPGPU, Video RAM, 2D graphics, 3D graphics and video playback), network ports and printers.
The Professional version also has a number of additional tests including microphones, webcams, battery's, tape drives,USB ports (USB 3.0 and 2.0), Serial ports andParallel ports (with the use of loop back plugs).
If you have specialized hardware that BurnInTest does not test out of the box, you can write your own test and integrate it with BurnInTest. For example, PassMark has produced plugin tests for Touchscreens and Keyboards*.
We use the fabric burn test method to figure out the content on many of the fabrics we carry. Because we buy closeouts or deadstock fabric, we don't always get labels from the mill showing the exact content. You can use this method at home to determine mystery fabrics in your stash.
Fibers can also be identified through the smell of the smoke it gives off in burning and the ash or melted bead that remains after it has burned. Some fabrics are blends, and the blend of fibers may make the burn test a rather unreliable test for fiber content. Moreover, some fabrics have chemical finishes and sizings applied to them that will change the way they burn, making the burn test further unreliable.
Reaction of Fibers to the Burn Test
Cotton Fabric is a natural fiber. It burns quickly and may flare up when lit. After burning, it continues to glow then produce a soft, gray ash. It will smell like burning paper or grass. The smoke is gray or white. Shop Cotton Fabric
Linen Fabric is a natural fiber. It burns like cotton but it may take longer to ignite. After burning, it continues to glow then produce a soft, gray ash. It will smell like burning paper or grass. The smoke is gray or white. Shop Linen Fabric
Rayon/Tencel/Modal/Lyocell Fabric are all man-made natural fibers, made from cellulose. It burns quickly and may flare up. After the flame is removed, it may glow a bit longer than cotton. It smells like burning paper and leaves soft, gray ash. It may also leave a wispy tail after extinguished. Shop Rayon Challis Fabric
Silk Fabric is a natural fiber. It burns slowly and self-extinguishes. It leaves a gritty ash that smells like burning hair. It gives out little, to no smoke. Shop Silk Fabrics
Wool Fabric is a natural fiber. It burns slowly, sizzles and self-extinguishes. It leaves a gritty ash that smells like burning hair. Shop Wool Fabric
Acetate Fabric is a man-made natural fiber. It burns quickly and melts. It can even flare after the flame is removed. When extinguished, the bead is hard and cannot be crushed. There is no ash but the smell is very noticeable smelling like vinegar. Acetate can be found in both wovens and knits. Acetate is most popular in lining fabrics.
Nylon Fabric is a synthetic fiber. It melts without burning, the sometimes burns slowly. A hard bead forms and smells like burning celery. Nylon can be found in both wovens and knits. Browse our website to find a wide variety of nylon fabric by the yard.
Polyester/Acrylic Fabric is a synthetic fiber. It burns quickly and melts. A hard black bead forms and smells like sweet chemical. Use caution as the flame may flare up. Polyester can be found in both wovens and knits. Browse our website to find a wide variety of polyester fabric by the yard.
Here is a simplified guide that will help you to identify many common types of plastic materials using a flame source such as a cigarette lighter, torch, or bottled gas burner. Naturally, the burn test should be used only for tentative identification. Many complex plastic compounds require a rigorous spectral or destructive chemical analysis for a positive identification.
Next, hold the sample to the edge of a flame until it ignites. If no flame is produced quickly, hold the sample in the flame for about 10 seconds. If the material burns, note the color of the flame, the nature of the smoke, the presence of soot in the air and whether, while burning, the sample drips.
Next, extinguish the flame and cautiously smell the fumes. To identify the odor, samples of known plastic samples for comparison can be most helpful. Finally, check your observations against the known characteristics of each plastic as shown in the table below. Once you have made a tentative identification, it is usually desirable to repeat the flame test once or twice to confirm the results of the original identification. Remember that additives may affect results. For example: flame retardants can mask the polymer material's normal flame & smoke burning characteristics.
Because of the natural variance in supplies, particularly with soy and natural waxes, it's recommended to burn test your candles periodically. Checking your existing line at the start of each season, or at least bi-annually, is advised.
1. Clear your schedule and find a comfortable place to set up.
It's crucial that your candle is not left unattended, so make sure that you'll be able to hang around for the entire burn cycle. Set your candle on a clean, flat, heat-resistant surface. Place candles three to six inches (7.6-15.2 cm) apart if testing more than one at a time. Ideally, your testing area should be free of drafts.
2. Clearly label your candles.
Note the type of wax, fragrance oil, fragrance load, dyes used and amount used, wick choice, and container choice and its diameter. You can use our downloadable burn testing notecards or jot this information down in a notebook. Try printing our notecards as labels for your candles to keep things simple!
4. Light your candle, note the time, and watch it burn!
Check back each hour to record your observations. Setting hourly timers is a good practice when initially lighting the candle. Always extinguish candles after four hours.
5. Extinguish, wait, and repeat.
After four hours, blow out your candle and give it at least five hours to cool. Repeat steps one to four until inch (6 mm) of wax remains. Each burn cycle will be different, especially as the wax level lowers and heat builds in the container. With burn testing, we're evaluating how the candle burns throughout the candle's life, not just during the first few burns. Testing the entire candle is arguably the most important step of the process. Your customers will be burning the entire candle, and so should you!
Melt pool
When evaluating your melt pool, look at the diameter of the melted wax. At three to four hours, the melt pool should be no more than inch (6 mm) from the edge of the container. A little wax remaining around the edges of the container is acceptable, and should melt down by the third or fourth burn cycle. The depth of the melt pool should typically be about to inch (6-13 mm), but a slight variance here is okay. You're looking for what makes sense for your specific container, so don't be too critical regarding the melt pool depth. Always wait until four or more burn cycles to be critical of your melt pool. Melt pools are slower to form during the first few burns, but develop faster when the wax level is lower in the container.
Soot
First and foremost, remember that you are burning something, so a bit of soot is totally normal and to be expected! Soot is simply the carbon buildup burning off the wick. Soy wax typically produces white soot, which is harder to see with the naked eye; paraffin wax produces black soot, which is more visible and easy to spot. If you see little bursts of soot every now and then, there is no need to worry. If large plumes of soot appear frequently or if you see soot building heavily on the edge of your container, that may indicate that you should wick down. Excess soot can also result from a fragrance load that's too high, or certain types of fragrance oils.
Flame size and movement
Most flames will be about an inch (2.5 cm) tall, but flames up to two inches (5 cm) can be considered normal. During most of the burn, the flame will be relatively still, with slight movement here and there. Heat tends to build up in the container as the wax level gets lower, so you could expect to see the flame moving a bit more at this point in the burn. If the flame begins moving excessively, it could indicate a draft in the room. If in doubt, check your burn testing location for drafts and try the next burn cycle in a different area.