5g Laptop Adapter
Saustin Grody
I can see a Green light on my dell laptop adapter even when adapter is being used and connected to a power source. As per my knowledge this idicates that adapter is plugged in to power source and receiving power.Upon unplugging the adapter from my power source, green light continues to glow for around 2 to 3 minutes.Can someone explain me why it is glowing even when the power source is off? what is going on in the background?
Some light switches run a small amount of current through the bulbs even when off, usually to power small devices at the switch like a timer, motion sensor, or night light. Do your switches have either of those features, or something else like that?
The way those devices work is instead of having a hot/neutral pair powering the switch, they just sit inline with the hot wire and draw a very small amount of power. Old fashioned incandescent bulbs won't light up if there's only a small amount of electricity running through them, so you would never notice this current, but LEDs are much more efficient and apparently are getting enough power to run.
straightforward or extremely difficult, depending on whether the neutral for the light goes through the same box as the switch. (Note that even if you do have a neutral at the box it may be a little tricky to wire it up, since you'll have to cut it and then probably add a pigtail or two.) Put back your old-fashioned incandescents.
If we're talking a high voltage circuit, w high intensity LEDs: Many high intensity white LED's use a phosphor that is in fact phosphorescent, like glow in the dark paint. You just have to wait for it to dim down. Switching to a different brand of bulb, with a different phosphor may help, but it's hard to "try before you buy".
You need a multimeter. Without it, there is nothing you can do. So first step is to plug the supply in and connect probes of the meter to the inner and outer connections of the supply. You should get around 19 V, if I'm reading the info on the site correctly.
If you get good voltage, then it's very likely that it's working correctly. If you want to be sure and know someone good with electronics, you could try putting some load on the supply. The voltage should not change even under load. Still, it could be complicated to make proper resistor network, so don't try it if you don't know what you're doing.
I'd suggest using a voltmeter / multimeter. You can get inexpensive ones at your local Radio Shack. What you would do is set the voltmeter to 20V and then use the volt meter leads to touch the metal parts of AC adapter connector. Written on the the AC adapter is its voltage output, and the reading you get from the voltmeter should be very close to that value. If you get a reading that's close to zero, that AC adapter is either not working or you're not touching the connector correctly.
I agree with the method of testing Adapter with Multi/volt meter but in many cases (if the fault persists in the Adapter) without the load it is meaning less. You certainly need to put a Dummy-Load to get the proper response.
If you don't have a meter, based on what I've seen on wilderness survival shows, if you've got some steel wool, you can see whether the AC adapter sets it on fire. That'll tell you whether it's getting a charge. Take the advice with some caution though, as it may also fry your AC adapter, no idea, I'm not a EE nor have I ever tried this.
I bought a Lenovo laptop here in the UK and am shipping it off to my girlfriend in the US. Can she use a standard US power lead for the lead that goes from the laptop power adapter to the wall outlet or will I have to buy a US power adapter for that laptop model?
I thought i packed my whole charger with my dell laptop but come to find, the second half of it isn't with me, only the bulk part that connects to the laptop. I have another one but its for hp laptop. Is it possible for me to use the plug part of the hp and connect it to the bulk -adapter part for a substitute? They are both 3 pronged (that connects to adapter-not plug to wall part). Does it matter if the plug part is different but use the same adapter that came with the laptop?
Im think its okay to use the 3 prong plug to adapter as long as the adapter is made for the laptop. Ive read other forums about other people using the whole charger that isnt made for it, but had to ask.
This afternoon I was playing Minecraft on my ASUS laptop. As many Minecraft players know the game is written in Java which, on high settings, can force quite a high demand on the computers CPU. After two hours of playing my laptop popped up a notification of "[switched to] Battery Mode". Check that power supply is still in laptop, still in wall, however no green "power" LED on the power transformer. Pick up the transformer and it is insanely hot to the touch, causing the floor to be very warm underneath it. I guess there's some sort of temperature cut-out on the supply to stop it catching fire but what does one do with a flaming-hot power transformer? This has never happened to me before (unsurprisingly) and since unplugging it from the wall and laptop I have just left it to cool. I've not used it since so has it been fried? The laptop itself is running fine (using it now). I was thinking about replacing the supply anyway but is there a "best" way of cooling one down, just in case?
Absolutely, the best thing you can do is to allow the PSU to cool naturally, don't try to cool it quicker as doing so may cause damage (if it's not already damaged). Allow it to cool fully before attempting to use it again, and monitor your laptop and the supply when first using it in case it has been damaged.
This is a fairly old question but I have a rather unique solution. Buy a good laptop fan just for the power brick, it won't provide so much cooling that it will cause damage but will keep it running at a reasonable temprature. I own both an ASUS ROG gaming laptop and an Alienware one as well. Both power supplies have heat issues.
I have an M17xR3 Alienware laptop which power supply gets extremely hot, especially with overclocking. It's just drawing more power from the supply than it used to. Now that I have unlocked the BIOS and am pushing the CPU and GPU harder, which in turn draws more power the CPU, has gone from stock 2.4GHz up to 3.7GHz, which it seems to have no problems.
Doing very stable temperatures, no real increase from stock, I did adjust fan timing so they come on earlier now, but overall temperature never exceeds 80 degrees Celsius. The main issue was the power supply getting so hot you couldn't touch it.
I solved this by cutting a rectangular hole in the top of the plastic on my PSU and attaching 2 old CPU heat sinks with the fans still attached to the metal plate. Inside the PSU, some heatsink thermal paste and an old 12V power adapter to power the fans.
If it is hot to the touch, but not hot enough to burn you (meaning, you can hold it uncomfortably), it's probably fine. Keep in mind that temperatures like 100 degrees F are considered relatively cool for electronic components. However, if it's scalding hot so that you can't touch it, it's likely that it shorted out and it needs to be REPLACED IMMEDIATELY OR FIRE!!! Less resistance, more inductance, more heat, or something along those lines...
P.S: To increase cool down, try LSerni's method below in comment section. Disregard this: I didn't tried but to increase cooldown you can wrap power adapter with aluminium foil (tinfoil). I think you should wrap it firmly by using Thermal paste. This way almost every surface of foil should be in contact with PSU. And that way notebook adapter can transfer its heat to aluminium.
CAUTION: If wrapping isn't firm; you cause your power supply unit to overheat because of blocked air current and very hot air pockets between tinfoil and adapter surface. So you need to try out a small piece of aluminium foil by applying it on adapter with the paste. if thermal paste made for CPU's will glue the tinfoil to the PSU's surface and keep it glued for a very long time, there will be no problem.
Complete the wrapping without cutting tinfoil. There should be an extra tinfoil as long as your fan's diameter. Direct your fan to this extra tinfoil and this SHOULD happen: PSU will transfer heat to tinfoil. Fan's air curent will cool down PSU faster because more air current will be in touch with more heated surface.
Not kidding at all, I put an ice cold water bottle on top of it, cools it down and never over heats and water doesn't drip down too much and damage it. Not sure if it's fluke or not, but I have also noticed that the colder the converter the cooler my laptop is.
Current is like flow-rate. Litres per second or how fast your bath fills. It depends on how big your supply pipes are. If your water supply has a low flow rate, you won't be able to fill your swimming pool in 10 minutes. If your water supply can fill your pool in 10 minutes, you can still use it to connect a drip-watering system for your pot-plants that only draws a cupfull a day of water.
If the laptop requires 19V you should use an power-supply that provides the same voltage. If the power supply voltage is significantly more, it will damage your device and could start a fire. If the voltage is less, the device will not work, actual damage is less likely.
If the laptop need to draw 4.7A, your should use a power supply that is capable of providing At least that number of Amps. More is ok. Less means the device will probably not operate correctly.
Normally when you use adapter, that has lower power output than the device you supply power to requires, adapter will simply heat up and die. In case of laptops, where battery has some charging logic, it will probably not charge or take very long time to charge, depends on how you use this laptop. I don't know if the adapter will explode in this case though. I will certainly not recommend using lower amperage adapter than Toshiba specifies.
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