Series IIIf - monitor A/B switch

[Dave C]

Hey everyone! Hope you all had a great New Years!

I had a question about replacing switches. My A/B monitor switch is very flaky, so I’d like to change it out. I’ve ordered a Schadow F4UEE switch, but the problem is, I can’t get the old switch out. 

I’ve carefully desoldered so that all the pins are loose and move freely. I saw that the switch is mounted in a metal frame with the adjoining switches (Tape 1,2,3,4,cue,echo). 

Rather than desolder and remove the whole group of switches, I bent the metal clips of the mount with pliers so they aren’t wrapped around the switch. 

The switch wiggles and moves freely, and can comes out a little bit, but it seems like it’s still attached to something (maybe behind it?). 

Is there something else, maybe another clip, that I need to unhook or bend out of the way?

Thanks!

Dave

[Ike Zimbel]

Are the switches interlocked? IOW, when you press one, the one that was in pops up?

A pic would be helpful, too. 

   ~Ike Zimbel~

   Wireless frequency coordination specialist.

   Manufacturer's Representative

   Radio Active Designs (Canada)

       ~416-720-0887~

FCC:WRBX645

   http://www.zimbelaudio.com/wireless-frequency-coordination/

On Jan 5, 2026, at 3:54 PM, Dave C <omap...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hey everyone! Hope you all had a great New Years!

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[Dave C]

Hi Ike!

The switches aren't interlocked... they are all independent.  Here is a photo of the switches and the mounting bracket.  On the F4UEE, I've bent the little metal fingers holding it in place up and out of the way (they were originally bent down like the ones on the F2UEEs). The switch is loose and moves independently of the other switches, but there's still something holding it in place. 

Thanks!

Dave

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neotekusers/C671ABAF-9CC7-4577-A325-6B45A2CF457E%40zimbelaudio.com.

[Ike Zimbel]

The black wire that runs over the top of the switch? The blue wire that goes towards the fader? That black wire looks like it might be a ground for the switch bracket. Can you move it out of the way?

Also, are the pins on the solder side completely clear of solder? Sometimes you get a little collar of solder that’s bigger than the hole it has to fit through. Also, I’ve seen situations were the leads were trimmed with a dull side-cutters which can spread the ends of the lead (or “flare” them) again making them too wide for the hole. If that’s the case, cut them off with a sharp side-cutter. 

   ~Ike Zimbel~

   Wireless frequency coordination specialist.

   Manufacturer's Representative

   Radio Active Designs (Canada)

       ~416-720-0887~

FCC:WRBX645

   http://www.zimbelaudio.com/wireless-frequency-coordination/

On Jan 5, 2026, at 4:57 PM, Dave C <omap...@gmail.com> wrote:



Hi Ike!

The switches aren't interlocked... they are all independent.  Here is a photo of the switches and the mounting bracket.  On the F4UEE, I've bent the little metal fingers holding it in place up and out of the way (they were originally bent down like the ones on the F2UEEs). The switch is loose and moves independently of the other switches, but there's still something holding it in place. 

<monitorswitch1.jpg>

Thanks!

Dave

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neotekusers/CAEQbwoeEk1M97_4yBuZ%3Dje9HO7O-0MTt5NV%3DPueXRWVOUkBDNg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Dave C]

Hi Ike!

I grabbed another shot with a better view of the switch from underneath the panel.

The blue wire can be pushed out of the way. You're right, the other wire is ground.  I think the pins are pretty clean of solder, but I'll check for a collar that is difficult to see. But it seems like the piece that is catching isn't the solder pins. It's the part right under the button (where the clips are...I added a red arrow pointing to that section).

The whole switch shakes and can be pulled out about 1mm, so it doesn't feel like it's glued in. It's almost as if there is some sort of clip behind the switch that's catching, but I'm guessing there isn't. Maybe the metal fingers or clip aren't bent enough out of the way?

Thanks!

Dave

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neotekusers/DF2898A8-4F31-4F56-A782-536F0052B2AE%40zimbelaudio.com.

[Ike Zimbel]

Try releasing that screw that goes into the switch bracket. Something looks wonky with the spring on that switch…maybe it’s caught under the bracket. 

   ~Ike Zimbel~

   Wireless frequency coordination specialist.

   Manufacturer's Representative

   Radio Active Designs (Canada)

       ~416-720-0887~

FCC:WRBX645

   http://www.zimbelaudio.com/wireless-frequency-coordination/

On Jan 5, 2026, at 5:32 PM, Dave C <omap...@gmail.com> wrote:



Hi Ike!

I grabbed another shot with a better view of the switch from underneath the panel.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neotekusers/CAEQbwocbmwfvaUzp%2Bw_q%2BSJjR3qEY0aZ6_OTuND9bK9quBWbiw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Dave C]

Hey Ike!

Unfortunately, loosening the screw didn't unblock anything. I used a soldering wick and made sure all the solder was cleaned off on the other side, and it's still stuck. Not sure what's up with this switch. I guess when I have more time, I'll desolder all the switches and pull them out as a whole with the metal bracket still attached. Then maybe it'll be easier to remove the switch. For now, I've got my monitors plugged into the studio output...it works fine, but I just lose the ability to conveniently switch between monitors, but that's ok.

Thanks!

Dave 

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neotekusers/5693960F-D623-4515-84B0-37267D4EC717%40zimbelaudio.com.

[Dreams Ryskalchick]

Sometimes those switches get a bit stuck if the bracket isn't bent perfectly straight back. I usually put a flathead screwdriver in from the front panel and under the switch at the bracket and gently-but-not-too-gently twist the screwdriver back and forth to put a bit more force underneath while lifting out. If it's not an interlocking switch (and even most times when they are, at least with the F series switches) then there's really nothing apart from a bit of friction from the bracket keeping it in place. Kinda wiggle it out. All else fails, crush that switch with some pliers lol rip it apart. Gently!

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[Dave C]

Thanks, I'll give it a try! I think putting a bit of extra force into it might do the trick, I suspect it might just be held in place by some extra friction, but I've been trying to be extra careful. But I'll try the screwdriver trick tomorrow and see if I can force the switch out enough to wiggle it out.

Thanks!

Dave 

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[Dave C]

Just wanted to give a quick update! The screwdriver trick worked...the switch was just really tightly wedged into the metal mount. I was able to force it out, replace the switch and we're back in business!

Thanks to everyone for your help! 

Dave