Replacement Capacitor models

[Victor Taylor]

Hi,  unfortunately a lot of my elcaps are swollen and bursting due to being stored  unused in a humid environment.  I'd like to buy high quality Nichicon (or panasonic) replacements.  I have a couple questions:

1. Nichicon has a wide range of electrolytic capacitors available. Which line is a good quality, but are not the most expensive caps they make? (I wanted to go with the Fine Golds but they're $1.60 per capacitor)  Can anyone recommend a brand/model that will match the quality of the original caps?

2.  Are the only caps that are in the audio path bipolar? If so I will get the best Nichicons I can for these.

Thanks for the tips!

-Victor T.

PS. I have a lot of experience working on audio equipment and have a decent powered desoldering station, and I'll be very gentle considering these PCBs are old and the solder is degraded.  

[Daniel Gomez]

Typical quanities of 100 for say 47 uf 63v reduce by 60% cost.  If you recap with those, you will be glad you did.  Most of the caps are 2.2, 1, 4.7, 10 uf.  Much cheaper.

Dan at Destiny Studios

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[Daniel Gomez]

Also, I recapped 10 channels of S1E channels and I don’t recall any bipolars.  Replace all electrolytic, standard leakage coefficients were calculated during design.  Most pot and sw noise will disappear after this.  Clean and lube all sw and pots with Caig.  Have fun!

[Dennis Warters]

You can’t go wrong with Panasonic or nichicons, just make sure they are rated for 105’. Definitely order from mouser or digikey not amazon, no counterfeits. Definitely buy enough for the whole console and save on the quality pricing. The audio goes through BP which you can buy “audio grade” and the DC rails have standard electrolytics.

-Dennyman 

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[_]

Hi Daniel, so you just bought the basic Nichicons? They have fancy lines like the Muse, which cost much more. Are basic Nichicons ok? All my 10uf caps do not have a marking for the - side, so I guess they’re bipolar.

On Jun 26, 2026, at 1:56 PM, Daniel Gomez <gomezel...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Mike S.]

Hi

The VP(M)  series is for non-polars and the VR(M) series is for polars,, keep the values the same as MF and voltage

Sincerely

Mike Stoica

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