NIMO

[jörg]

Hi group,
I'm excited to share a short video for my powered-up NIMO tube.

The filament PWS took time to build. The transformer is a self-wound one.
In this setup, I'm using three PWS.
Two royer type PWS (HV and filament) and one regulated to power the filament PWS.

The next stage will have a digital pot to regulate the royer HV PWS.  

Cheers

Jörg

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VuxtYPLhQFDjpzjJ_vhA6uNWFF0APRME/view

(Hope that link works)

[martin martin]

Very nice!  Time to find 6 of them and choose appropriate  set of colons to match that color

~

mcve...@gmail.com

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[gregebert]

Nice work. If you adjust the DC bias on the filament, you should be able to reduce the ghosting and get a sharper image.

My NIMO clock uses a DAC to set the offset, so I can have software adjust it.

Have you tested your power supply at full-load ? I had to make a lot of adjustments to solve an overheating problem at full load.

[jörg]

The filament PWS is tested with ballast-resistors delivering 1,5A. That was flawless. But, anyway, it's not tested with 6 Nimos right now.
I've tested your advised filament bias offset. Unfortunatelly no change to better.

[Nicholas Stock]

I particularly like the gratuitous pan to the other 5 NIMO tubes towards the end of the video.... :) Should be quite the timepiece. Well done.

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[Paul Andrews]

Brilliant

[gregebert]

Jorg - Are you using AC, or DC for your filaments ?

I use a center-tapped 2.5V transformer, with a series dropping resistor and fuse, for each tube filament.

The center-tap of the filament transformer is driven to a DC voltage to set the correct bias.

I have my NIMO board running with 4.8 volts of bias, meaning that when a numeral is off, it's at -4.8VDC relative to the filament.

Since my driver uses a 10V supply, when a numeral is on, it's at +5.2VDC relative to the filament. 

It takes some experimenting with those values, and the anode voltage, to get the best image. Right now I'm using 1980V for the anode supply, and I'm measuring around 30uA average current. Some numerals require more current than others.

Here's an old youtube video from last year, and there's no ghosting:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wEjHpj6gkg

[Keith Moore]

Wow! So nice. I never see these for sale or displayed. So thank you so much for sharing. 

- Keith 

[jörg]

I'm using AC about 1,1V center tapped bias of 5V.

12V supply, I will check with 10V.

Thanks a lot for sharing your experience.

 

[jörg]

Short video update: Fast crossfade of digits.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18YS8pPsuV3o2kZXVr0B9ErAAq5p6Qn_8/view

[Paul Andrews]

That is SO good.

> On Jun 8, 2020, at 7:25 PM, jörg <pos...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Short video update: Fast crossfade of digits.
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/18YS8pPsuV3o2kZXVr0B9ErAAq5p6Qn_8/view
>
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[martin martin]

very cool.

Are they available ?

~

mcve...@gmail.com

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[Nicholas Stock]

Martin, NIMO tubes are rare as hen's teeth.....and when you do find them, you're going to pay $150 each min....or thereabouts.

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAKYv7NQcKQcZh2RcepYPiH5tMb4rhCDoPZJFXJAzjt-3vd4HYQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[martin martin]

Oy!

Maybe we should get our hero Dalibor to make them 

😳

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[Nicholas Stock]

Or use 1 inch CRT's to 'mimic' them.....

.....hee hee.

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[gregebert]

On Monday, June 8, 2020 at 6:09:11 PM UTC-7, Pramanicin wrote:

Or use 1 inch CRT's to 'mimic' them.....

.....hee hee.

I bought a dozen of them from Yuri about 2 years ago for that very reason. Now I just need to find the time to crank-out the design. 

[Mike Mitchell]

On Monday, June 8, 2020 at 9:09:11 PM UTC-4, Pramanicin wrote:

Or use 1 inch CRT's to 'mimic' them.....

.....hee hee.

I used  https://www.hackster.io/paul-bricmont/nearly-nimo-clock-9309ec as a guide and built my own.  I used my own software on a Teensy 3.2, GPS synchronized.

I think it came out OK.

[Paul Andrews]

I remember that project!

[jörg]

Again a short update.

I've finished the Protoboard for the NIMO tube.

And, again, a short video.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zqwuOtwQdO6CUYCdWOrgNX02n50pVdhv/view?usp=sharing

[John Rehwinkel]

I've finished the Protoboard for the NIMO tube.

And, again, a short video.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zqwuOtwQdO6CUYCdWOrgNX02n50pVdhv/view?usp=sharing

What are you using for a high voltage supply?  Looks like a CCFL inverter?

- John

[jörg]

Hi John,
yes, it is a CCFL inverter salvaged from an old flatbed scanner.
I've tweaked it a little bit to get the positive anode voltage.
A HV Diode from an old flea zapper and high voltage capacitors.
This one works pretty well, because it is adjustable from 6 to 12 volts, which gives me 1600 to 2300 volts.
Schematics attached.

[Dekatron42]

@jörg & @gregebert - what driver did you use for the grids?

Did you go with the CD4028 like in Michael Moorrees or with some other driver, or even discrete transistors?

/Martin

[jörg]

Hi Martin,
I have used Michael‘s approach. 
The CD4028 with levelshifting transistors.
Thank‘s to Michael Moorrees informations on his website.
It was a pretty good source to start the nimo project.
During the project I‘ve learned a lot regarding royer oscillators. 
Now I’m waiting for the PCB’s from OshPark.

[Mac Doktor]

On Jun 28, 2020, at 3:32 PM, jörg <pos...@gmail.com> wrote:

I have used Michael‘s approach. 
The CD4028 with levelshifting transistors.
Thank‘s to Michael Moorrees informations on his website.

Where is that? I searched his site and couldn't find it.

Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor”

"Never install version point-zero of anything"

[Dekatron42]

Here they ate, scroll down (don’t miss the other nice designs though): https://threeneurons.wordpress.com/miscellaneous-projects/

[Dekatron42]

@ jörg, thanks for letting me know that you used Moorrees design.

/Martin

[gregebert]

Martin - I'm using MC14094 CMOS shift-registers to drive the NIMO grids, with a 1meg series resistor. The CMOS shift registers are driven from a 10VDC supply, so the grids are either 0V or +10V. To get proper cutoff, I drive the center-tap of the filament transformer from a buffered DAC, so I can set the bias via software control.

When the DAC is set to +6.5V, the actual voltage at the grid relative to the filament is nominally +3.5V (on) or -6.5V (off). Of course this varies due to the AC voltage across the filaments. But it averages over time and all characters have the same brightness.

[Dekatron42]

@gregebert, thanks for sharing your design!

/Martin

[gregebert]

On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 11:37:22 PM UTC-7, Dekatron42 wrote:

@gregebert, thanks for sharing your design!

/Martin

That's just the tip of the iceberg....it's a real monster. But it seems to be working. Some videos I posted on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJO-EIHrVe8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wEjHpj6gkg

 

[Dekatron42]

Oh, I had missed those, thanks for posting the links here!

/Martin

[Dekatron42]

@jörg: if you fixed the ghosting you had on the digit, how did you do it?

@gregebert: you mentioned some leaked from th "7" digit, what was the cause of this?

I am trying to get the courage to experiment with my NIMOs........

/Martin

[Paul Andrews]

I assume you guys have also looked at this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmWg7CtN0Ac

[jörg]

Hi Martin,
i did not work on the ghosting issue. I'm waiting for the pcb's.
After that, i will start get rid of that problem.
@paul: yes i know that video. It looks like that the ghosting issue is there, too.

[gregebert]

No worries... NIMO tubes are not harmful in terms radiation (voltage is too low), and any toxicity of internal materials would be no-worse than a CFL bulb (I doubt NIMO tubes have mercury, but they do have phosphorus and other things).

Even the high voltage (2kV) isn't harmful due to the low current (30uA per tube) as long as small capacitors are used.

By far, the biggest risk is the handling of the tube itself, and making sure the circuit never exceeds the ratings of the tube, particularly the filament.

[jörg]

Yes, i agree with grebert.
The filament driving was the most "dangerous", in terms of afraid, part for me.
Not the high voltage.
I do not want, in any case, to overload or destroy the filament due to too much current.
The 1,1Vrms are crucial, because it affect the lifetime of the tube. 
Thats why I've choosen the royer type of pws and not a linear regulated power supply, which was my first idea.

[gregebert]

Be careful about the inrush current when energizing the filaments; the cold resistance is around 2.8 ohms, whereas hot is around 7 ohms. So, with a 1.1V supply, your surge-current will be about 400mA unless you use circuit tricks to lower it.

I use a series resistor + fuse and drive from a 2.5V transformer; my peak current is around 250mA,  and 180mA operating.

[Dekatron42]

So you are using something like a 6.8 Ohm series resistor on each side of the heater to get these figures?

If you use a series resistor on each side, what effect does that result in on the DC-bias, none or something that you have to adjust for?

Do you short these resistors after some time so they are not affecting the circuit, or do you leave them in there?

/Martin

[Dekatron42]

Well, I can answer my last question on my own, didn't think correctly there - of course you don't short these resistors as that would result in 2.5V across the heaters.

The reason I asked was because I thought you perhaps had two sets of series resistors, one left in the circuit at all times and one that was shorted after some time.

/Martin

[gregebert]

After some experimenting, I ended-up using 5.1 ohms for a single resistor. I could have used 2 resistors, one on each side, to maintain DC balance but instead I chose to use a single resistor so I could have my FPGA monitor the filament status, along with it's associated fuse and resistor. Each filament has it's own 250mA fuse for protection (this is a 6-tube NIMO clock). It wasn't necessary it was to go to that extreme, and it burned-up a lot of FPGA pins, but this is a project/experiment where I really wanted to go overboard with the instrumentation and self-checking. DC-balance really isn't necessary because everything averages-out over time, and I just adjust the DC offset (with a DAC under software control).

Regarding the filament, it's actually 2 parallel-connected filaments inside the tube. So when 1 of them blows, only half of the digits will work.

My original intention was that I would monitor the anode-current for all 6 tubes, and I could detect a partial filament burnout by checking for lower-than-expected current. Software could isolate the failing tube, then shut down the clock. Unfortunately there is a source of noise in the op-amp summer circuit I use that gives me erratic current readings. Eventually I'll figure out what's wrong.

[John Rehwinkel]

> My original intention was that I would monitor the anode-current for all 6 tubes, and I could detect a partial filament burnout by checking for lower-than-expected current. Software could isolate the failing tube, then shut down the clock. Unfortunately there is a source of noise in the op-amp summer circuit I use that gives me erratic current readings. Eventually I'll figure out what's wrong.

I would have used a current regulated supply for the filament (well, six of them in your case), which will also automatically give a nice soft start-up, and allow you to easily monitor the filament by monitoring its voltage.

- John

[gregebert]

I gave that idea a lot of thought, but I decided against it for 2 reasons:

#1 It will waste a fair amount of energy. There were several methods I analyzed using the power sources I had available in the design, and this was the closest to a perfect solution.

#2 Using the center-tapped transformer made the best sense because it simplified the bias circuit, and using AC resulted in "averaging" that circumvents brightness variation seen in VFDs with a DC filament supply.

[jörg]

I'm playing with the idea to use a TPS22810 Load Switch and a non fet royer for each tube.
I've ordered samples from TI.
The idea to use a current regulated supply was my first try. I've build one with a LMZ22003, which is a real interesting chip, because it's output voltage can be as low as 0,8V with inrush current limiting.
www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lmz22003.pdf
But i've dropped it, because of the biasing, gregbert mentioned, and my fear of a broken circuit, which could probably pass 12V directly to the filament.
Anyway, I'm using the LMZ for driving and regulating the CCFL inverter supply, which works flawless.
 

[Dekatron42]

I did look through the XM1000 datasheet the other day (the Telefunken copy of the NIMO that had to be scrapped due to the patent battle between IEE and Telefunken, which IEE won) and found one interesting thing about running these displays multiplexed (just as the NIMO datasheet says that you can multiplex the displays) but they don't mention the decreased effect on the phosphor screen when doing so, like Telefunken says.

With Google translate you get:

"To display multi-digit numbers, the number display tubes assigned to the individual digits of the number can also be operated, for example, in time division multiplexing at a high repetition frequency.

The fear that the lifespan of the luminescent layer will be shortened due to the higher high-voltage value necessary for pulse operation is unjustified: at higher high voltages, the electrons penetrate deeper into the luminescent layer. Therefore, a larger proportion of the material of the luminescent layer is stimulated to glow.

With the same beam current, this means reduced specific stress on the luminescent material."

So multiplexing these might be a way to go to get a simpler circuit even if you have to raise the HV-voltage some to get the same illumination, and if what Telefunken writes is correct you'll get longer (?) life if you raise the HV-voltage as the stress on the phosphor screen is less - any comments on this?

When looking through the XM1000 datasheet on my computer I also found a piece of paper that I had scanned for some old small transformers that I bought many years ago for other vacuum tube related experiments and they will do just fine in testing the XM1000 heaters as they have the possibility to select output voltages from 1V to 30V in 1V steps by jumpering the outputs correctly, or with two transformers with their primaries in series you'll get 0.5V to 15V in 0.5V steps. Now I'll just have to find a suitable CCFL-inverter to start some experimenting.

/Martin

[gregebert]

I remember watching the XM1000 auction on Ebay a few years ago; I believe a set of 4 went from 400 USD to over 2000 in the last few seconds. Their rectangular shape had a better appearance I thought.

The driver circuit is quite simple and inexpensive: eight  MC14094 will control 6 tubes and will cost about 4 USD (50 cents each). The annoyance is the series grid resistor, you need 60, but SMT devices are very cheap, so another 1 USD for those.

I use socket pins, with a 3D-printed collar for the tube socket. The anode clip is also 3D printed.

[jörg]

@Martin: regarding your question of longer life on higher anode voltage:
No, that's not what telefunken means. They wrote on behalf of multiplexing, in my opinion, a bit confusing.
In other words: at multiplexing with higher beam current, the effective current (like rms) is nearly the same as in using no multiplexing (with lower anode voltage).

If you like, take a look at: http://www.cathodecorner.com/nixiedata/nimo808p06.jpg

And, yes that's one idea, which I've in mind, why to use 6 separate filament drivers.
I will try out multiplexing, too.

[alb.001 alb.001]

I found this old pc board brand new in sealed original plastic bag for an 8-nixie device.  The Nixies appear to be the ZM1000 base type.  Board is labeled  85-560-2 and 060172 .Each nixie has 3 IC's going to it and maybe some power or wave shaping by 2 IC's on the left.  The board is double sided FR type material  about 18 cm x 9.5 cm  Any help appreciated

Thanks  Pharma Phil

 

[Tidak Ada]

Is it perhaps 10×16 cm excl. connector? That’s Euro-card size.

 

eric

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[David Forbes]

Phil,

Those are not ZM1000 tubes. They are B5870. I could probably trace out the circuit and figure out what types of chips it uses, which is what you need to make it run. It's most likely a frequency counter. 

On Fri, Jul 3, 2020, 1:20 PM alb.001 alb.001 <alb...@sympatico.ca> wrote:

I found this old pc board brand new in sealed original plastic bag for an 8-nixie device.  The Nixies appear to be the ZM1000 base type.  Board is labeled  85-560-2 and 060172 .Each nixie has 3 IC's going to it and maybe some power or wave shaping by 2 IC's on the left.  The board is double sided FR type material  about 18 cm x 9.5 cm  Any help appreciated

Thanks  Pharma Phil

 

--

[Richard Katezansky]

Heathkit IB-1103 Frequency Counter Main PCB,   Possibly other models as well.

[jörg]

Found this: PCB seems to match
https://ia800702.us.archive.org/4/items/HeathkitIB1103FrequencyCounter/Heathkit%20IB-1103%20Frequency%20Counter.pdf

[alb.001 alb.001]

Bingo...  we have a winner.  Thanks for all your help.  Board is a Heathkit frequency counter display and drivers board.

Thanks for all your help.  Does anyone have a use for this board ?

Pharma Phil

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[mhuffs...@seanet.com]

Hi Phil,
I have that very frequency counter! Picked it up as dead at
a Swap Meet last year (Remember those?) I could sure use it!

Mark


>
> Bingo...&#160; we have a winner.&#160; Thanks for all your help.&#160;

> Board is a Heathkit frequency counter display and drivers board.
>

> Thanks for all your help.&#160; Does anyone have a use for this board ?

>
> Pharma Phil
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: j&#246;rg &#60;pos...@gmail.com&#62;
> Date: July 4, 2020 at 9:29 AM
>
>
> Found this: PCB seems to match
> https://ia800702.us.archive.org/4/items/HeathkitIB1103FrequencyCounter/Heathkit%20IB-1103%20Frequency%20Counter.pdf
>
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[martin martin]

I think I have a box of those tubes if someone wants to build it up.  I already have two classic Beckman Nixie counters.  

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[Marcelo Confortino]

Good morning. I have the same board, populated. May be not the same, as
the numbers are different, but the traces and layout are certainly the
same as yours. The numbers in mine are 85-1398-2, 041373 and 033073. All
ICs are socketed. Nixies are NL-950S and there is also a neon lamp.
Can't remember where it came from.

Marcelo from Patagonia.

El 3/7/20 a las 17:20, alb.001 alb.001 escribió:

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[alb.001 alb.001]

nice photos,  looks just like mine.  How did it get to Patagonia ?

Thanks again all, you are the best !
Pharma Phil

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[Marcelo Confortino]

Patagonia is a mysterious land.

Marcelo from Patagonia.


El 5/7/20 a las 23:23, alb.001 alb.001 escribió:

> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/591001338.765979.1594002203920.JavaMail.open-xchange%40mtlgui07
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/591001338.765979.1594002203920.JavaMail.open-xchange%40mtlgui07?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>.

[jörg]

The PCB did arrive.
Unfortunatly I've put the tube socket on the wrong side of the pcb at eagle design.
Anyway the layout is pretty okay, but the tubes position is not correct lined up.
Changed the eagle design, new PCB's ordered.

[Dekatron42]

Looks nice!

Ahh, the socket on the wrong side has happened to me on a few occasions too.

What kind of PCB did you use, it looks thicker than standard and also a lot smoother on its black surface, especially since it doesn't have a colored surface? Where did you roder them from?

/Martin

[jörg]

It's 1,6mm from OSH-Park.
I'm doing all PCB prototyping with them.
They call it "Atfter Dark: clear soldermask on a black substrate for stylish boards"
I like it... stylish... ;)

[Dekatron42]

Nice name and very nice look. I mainly use Elecrow for my PCBs as they have been cheaper than OSH-Park this far but they don't have this nice PCB, might try OSH-Park just for this PCB!

It looked like 2 or 2.5mm to me.

/Martin

[Dekatron42]

I forgot to ask what PCB-software you are using.

I've been using Designspark since it was released but have had my eyes on KiCad for a while but not taken the step to try it out yet.

/Martin

[jörg]

I‘m using Eagle to layout.
It takes time for me to feel comfortable with it.
And Fusion360.

[alb.001 alb.001]

Mark  I guess that the board finally arrived.   I am very pleased that you have it.  Your PayPal payment was more than generous.  I hope you get the frequency counter working again.   I am pleased to have been able to help a fellow nixier.  I wonder if this was the last factory sealed original board that was left on earth. 

Best wishes   Phil Berkowitz

---------- Original Message ----------
From: mhuffs...@seanet.com
Date: July 4, 2020 at 4:58 PM


Hi Phil,
I have that very frequency counter! Picked it up as dead at
a Swap Meet last year (Remember those?) I could sure use it!

Mark


>

> Bingo...  we have a winner.  Thanks for all your help. 

> Board is a Heathkit frequency counter display and drivers board.
>

> Thanks for all your help.  Does anyone have a use for this board ?

>
> Pharma Phil
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: jörg <pos...@gmail.com>
> Date: July 4, 2020 at 9:29 AM
>
>
> Found this: PCB seems to match
> https://ia800702.us.archive.org/4/items/HeathkitIB1103FrequencyCounter/Heathkit%20IB-1103%20Frequency%20Counter.pdf
>
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[jörg]

Short update of my nimo project.
I've got 5 tubes running. The sixt is unfortunately DOA.

The tubes filaments are driven with three power supplies, with soft start IC (load switch).
So the filament gets started very smooth.

I've made some experiments with multiplexing the tubes.
Which work nice, using the method described in the manual. The bias voltage is changed for every tube, that should be on/off.
In the actual approch, I'm using direct driving the tubes via 74HC595 shift registers. Got a plenty of problems at the beginning.
The power and signal lines for the 595 were messed with switching noise. Some caps did the trick.

Really nice to view the working tubes.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JbwfZhYhnlo

[Paul Andrews]

Yes, they do look very nice.

On Oct 1, 2020, at 4:44 PM, jörg <pos...@gmail.com> wrote:

Short update of my nimo project.

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<IMG_3999.jpg>

<IMG_4008.jpg>

<IMG_4003.jpg>

<IMG_4009.jpg>

<IMG_3999.jpg>

[martin martin]

Just curious, what's the filament voltage?  27VDC?  And what's the HV?

~

mcve...@gmail.com

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[gregebert]

Filaments are about 1.1V; you want to limit the current to 200mA max. 180mA is quite good and will prolong the filament lifetime.

The anode is typically 1850V, at 30uA.

The anode current determines the brightness, which is the 'wear-and-tear' on the phosphor. So, keeping the anode current on the lower side so that the tube is still readable is essential.

Lastly, the 10 individual grids control the numbers displayed. When a grid is negative with respect to the filament, say -3.5V or more negative, that character is extinguished.

When the grid is positive with respect to the filament, that digit will be displayed. The brightness of the digit can be controlled by adjusting the anode voltage, or by adjusting how positive the grid is relative to the filament.

In my NIMO clock, I have a DAC to set the offset voltage between the filaments and the grid logic. The grids are driven from CMOS shift registers on a 10V supply. The HV supply is also software-programmable.

[gregebert]

Jorg - Regarding the dead tube, have you compared the filament resistance of the bad tube to the others ?

NIMO tubes have 2 parallel filaments, so if one is open, the resistance will be TWICE the value of a good tube.

I think the cold resistance is around 3 ohms.

If 1 filament is out, you can still get 5 numerals to work.

I would be surprised if both filaments are burned-out, unless someone put way too much voltage on it, or the tube is cracked around the pins.

If the filaments are OK, power-up the tube and make sure you get around 180mA of current.

Then try varying the voltage between the filament and the logic driving the grids. If a grid is about 6 V more positive than the filament, you should get a numeral to turn on.

[martin martin]

Those nimo look like tiny CRTs!  If anyone can make them it’s Dalibor!

* Are you following this ?

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[Kevin A.]

Well, they are tiny CRTs! 

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAKYv7NT7iKWUeanYPgTbW8cFPc2ieuYdV%3DcWJv4r0Go83%3DU_Hw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Robert G. Schaffrath]

"Those nimo look like tiny CRTs!  If anyone can make them it’s Dalibor!"

Talk about a niche market. Not only are they infinitely more complex to construct than a Nixie tube, the market for them would be even smaller than for his Nixie tubes.

I had commented on the short YouTube video that it would have been interesting if the manufacturer has made NIMO's available in other colors besides green. Red especially for critical indicators. Consistent anode voltages might have been problematic as different phosphors have different requirements. I have still seen some tiny 1" round CRT's up for sale from time to time. Might have an easier time getting and using those with custom logic to draw numerals.

[Dekatron42]

A long time ago I found these photos on the Internet, can't find them now though, however I am not sure if they are fake or true Nimo's.

/Martin

[Max DN]

I recognise those pictures. I was just looking at the earlier today. Here: https://www.yoycart.com/Product/565022565965/

[Toby Thain]

On 2020-10-03 10:00 a.m., Robert G. Schaffrath wrote:
> "Those nimo look like tiny CRTs!  If anyone can make them it’s Dalibor!"
>

> Talk about a niche market. Not only are they infinitely more complex to
> construct than a Nixie tube, the market for them would be even smaller
> than for his Nixie tubes.
>
> I had commented on the short YouTube video that it would have been
> interesting if the manufacturer has made NIMO's available in other
> colors besides green. Red especially for critical indicators. Consistent
> anode voltages might have been problematic as different phosphors have
> different requirements. I have still seen some tiny 1" round CRT's up
> for sale from time to time. Might have an easier time getting and using
> those with custom logic to draw numerals.

For extra points, use a Monoscope to drive the character image.

http://tubetime.us/index.php/2018/06/

--Toby

>
> On Friday, October 2, 2020 at 3:10:56 PM UTC-4 martin martin wrote:
>
> Those nimo look like tiny CRTs!  If anyone can make them it’s Dalibor!

> ...

[jörg]

Hi Gregebert, yes, I've checked the tube several times. The cold resistance is about 2,1 ohm, which is identical to the other tubes.
Just swapped the tube with a running one on the same driver board. Sadly, no function at all. Under a microscope, no crack is visible.

I've made a short video to show the difference between a neon-nixie and a nimo crt-tube and a neodym magnet (very small one.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJytnrvTy3Q

[Dekatron42]

Have you got a Plasma ball to hold it to? If air has entered in you might see a very faint blueish glow if you turn off the surrounding light.

What does the getter flash look like, like a mirror or is it gone completely, or has it gone white?

I have seen a few Nixies where the Anode wire has come lose at a welding spot, can you see if something similar has happened to your Nimo with any of the wires or the Anode connection - if so you might smack it gently against your palm to see if the wire reconnects enough for it to work again?

/Martin

[jörg]

Martin, you are right.
I've checked the getter flash and it is gone. Only a white shadow left.
So, sadly, the tube has sucked air and is cracked somewhere at the pins.
Unfortunately, I don't have a plasma ball.

[jörg]

So, if there is someone in the group, who is willing to sell a nimo which might join the other five, pls. pm me.

[Robert G. Schaffrath]

Had the same thing with a NOS IN-12B though they do not compare to a NIMO outgassing. I was refunded the cost of the IN-12B and they are readily replaceable. But those metal to glass bonds are not always tenacious. Outgassing has been an issue with vacuum tubes since the dawn of their existence. Tubes were still popular when I was young in the 60's and 70's and I recall my father and grandfather removing tubes occasionally with a milky white top from their TV's (grandfather had a Dumont!).

[Dekatron42]

Ah, what a pity.

However you now have one that you could open up to get some nice photos of the insides from, like the ones available for the Telefunken XM1000 design here (last photo): http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Roehren-Geschichtliches/Nixie/XM1000.htm

/Martin

[astroschmidt]

Hi Jörg,

as I lately got 10 NIMOs in an Ebay auction and am currently also working on a 6 tube NIMO-clock I can sell you a tube from my spares.

YouTube NIMO-Clock Update#2

YouTube NIMO-Clock Update#1

Please PM me.

Roger

[Dekatron42]

Would it be possible for you to share the circuit diagrams that you got in the box with the tubes, I haven't seen some of them, just the datasheet.

Also, can you share some photos of the mechanical pieces in the package, like photos of the five tube mounting bracket and of the power supply (saw some photos in the video)?

/Martin

[astroschmidt]

Hi Martin,

here´s another YouTube video where I unbox the Ebay-auction package (if you haven´t already found it):
https://youtu.be/7Mprac_anEA

If I find the time I will scan the documents that were included in the Ebay-auction and share them here.
.
The five tube mounting bracket is ATM under use in the prototype.
I will take photos of the bracket and the bezel, when I am ready with the clock enclosure.

Best regards
Roger

[Nicholas Stock]

Ah....so it was you that bought those NIMO's..... :)

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[Anthony]

Ah! I have been following your channel for some time, and just made the connection today that you are active on the Google group as well! I was very excited for you when I saw the box of NIMOs! 

[Yohan Park]

On Sunday, October 4, 2020 at 3:09:46 PM UTC+2 jörg wrote:

So, if there is someone in the group, who is willing to sell a nimo which might join the other five, pls. pm me.

You could ask Fran Blanche
She's got a few Tubes and only has 1 in use and not enough to build a clock.
Maybe she's willing to part with one "for science".
Tell her you're building a 6-tube clock and she's your only hope...
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMLgHbpJ8qYqj3CkdbvC0Ww    

 

[jörg]

Just a small update,
I've made a short video regarding the build of my 6 tube nimo clock.
And thank's a lot to astroschmidt to sell me one of his nimo's to complete my clock.
You sure will see his nimo in the video. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAhWgG5TKMg

All the best to gregebert project and his brand new nimo's.

[gregebert]

Really nice work!   Congratulations on being the first 6-tube NIMO clock I've ever seen or heard of.

[Dekatron42]

Nice to see one more 6 digit Nimo clock!

There's at least one other 6 digit Nimo clock that was shown on Youtube about a year ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JA1oeqavMg8&t=3s

/Martin

[jörg]

Yes, this is the clock from Roger.

And he is the guy, who helped me out with one tube, becaue one of mine was outgassed.

Again, thank you very much selling me one.

His is the leftmost one in the video, it is a BA 0000-P31 (blueish-green), whereas mine are 6000-92-0006 (yellow-green).
And the font is slightly diffent to the others.

And, @all please take it not too serious, the clock is for sure not the worlds first 6 tube nimo clock, as it is not the most dangerous one...

http://lampes-et-tubes.info/cd/cd085.php
https://www.industrialalchemy.org/articleview.php?item=943

[jörg]

A short update to my NIMO project.
Meanwhile I've put the tubes in a 3D resin printed frame.
The print is not perfect, but very promising.
I'm very pleased with this setup.


Some pictures:
  

[jörg]

Is there a green-glow flathead indicator tube available?
Size like the MTX-90 Thyratron or smaller. I would like to use them as colons for separating H:M:S.

[gregebert]

I'm using green NE-2 bulbs. Internal phosphor is white; glows green when energized. The lifetime isn't as long as gas-only bulbs, so be sure to mount on a plug-in card.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWUcURQvQsY

[Jon D.]

Do you have a source for the green NE-2s with the internal white phosphor ?

[gregebert]

I bought from aliexpress several years ago. Had to buy 1000, so I split-up and resold to neonixie members to offset my cost.

Other colors are available; blue would be cool.

[Audrey]

You can buy them on aliexpress and ebay in smaller quantities today

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[Yohan Park]

I think these would fit nicely with the Nimo tubes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/195661812653

[Mac Doktor]

On Apr 4, 2023, at 5:08 PM, Yohan Park <w...@kitsunegari.net> wrote:

I think these would fit nicely with the Nimo tubes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/195661812653

The only problem is that these will work loose from vibration and thermal cycling. Use bayonet based bulbs instead. Trust me.

Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor"

https://www.astarcloseup.com

"If only you could see what I've seen with your eyes."—Roy Batty, Blade Runner