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dr pepper
Jan 18, 2012, 1:08:09 AM1/18/12
to neonixie-l
Hi guys I'm new to the group, I have built a couple of clocks before,
I'm working on a IN1 nixie clock with an OG4 dekatron and a IN9 neon
bargraph (seconds) at the moment, it uses a software module for the
pic micro to decode the msf time signal.
All the electronics (well nearly all) and software is my own.
The latest development is a switching power supply that uses a
cockroft walton voltage multiplier so that I can have just one power
supply inverter with 2 outputs 200 and 400v for the nixies and
dekatron respectively.
I'm working on a IN1 nixie clock with an OG4 dekatron and a IN9 neon
bargraph (seconds) at the moment, it uses a software module for the
pic micro to decode the msf time signal.
All the electronics (well nearly all) and software is my own.
The latest development is a switching power supply that uses a
cockroft walton voltage multiplier so that I can have just one power
supply inverter with 2 outputs 200 and 400v for the nixies and
dekatron respectively.
Jan Rychter
Jan 22, 2012, 5:47:00 PM1/22/12
to neoni...@googlegroups.com
Ahh, interesting, that is very similar to what I'm planning. My PSU produces two voltages as well (I'll post a writeup soon about the stability problems I had, I have them partially solved now).
I'll be using a combination of IN-1 and A-101 dekatrons and I was planning on pushing the nixies slightly to 200-210V, so that the dekatron can get its 400-420V. I was worried about damaging the IN-1s, though -- not sure if they'll take to 210V kindly.
--J.
Adam Jacobs
Jan 22, 2012, 6:54:27 PM1/22/12
to neoni...@googlegroups.com
In the Mike Harrisson design (at least for US power), the HV nixie
supply is ~250vdc. I think that 200-210 should not pose any problem
provided that the current limiting resistor is appropriate.
supply is ~250vdc. I think that 200-210 should not pose any problem
provided that the current limiting resistor is appropriate.
-Adam
John Rehwinkel
Jan 22, 2012, 7:01:38 PM1/22/12
to neoni...@googlegroups.com
> I'll be using a combination of IN-1 and A-101 dekatrons and I was planning on pushing the nixies slightly to 200-210V, so that the dekatron can get its 400-420V. I was worried about damaging the IN-1s, though -- not sure if they'll take to 210V kindly.
No, won't hurt 'em, just adjust the anode resistors appropriately. You'll burn up a little more power in the anode resistors. On the good side, they'll strike faster (handy if you're multiplexing), and the current regulation will be better.
- John
Adam Jacobs
Jan 22, 2012, 7:04:55 PM1/22/12
to neoni...@googlegroups.com
Although, if you are using a voltage doubler to get your HV supply, you
will find that the supply sags as current increases. That's why using a
voltage doubler for the nixie HV is a hassle: as you increase nixie
current, HV supply voltage drops.. Use ohm's law to calculate the value
of your pot and then dial it in, don't even think about using a fixed
value resistor (at least, not for the first one).
will find that the supply sags as current increases. That's why using a
voltage doubler for the nixie HV is a hassle: as you increase nixie
current, HV supply voltage drops.. Use ohm's law to calculate the value
of your pot and then dial it in, don't even think about using a fixed
value resistor (at least, not for the first one).
-Adam W7QI
threeneurons
Jan 22, 2012, 10:10:20 PM1/22/12
to neonixie-l
> Although, if you are using a voltage doubler to get your HV supply, you
> will find that the supply sags as current increases....
>
> -Adam W7Q
>
Yep, the ripple voltage increases dramatically, per multiplier stage,
given the same current draw. But the nixies are the devices that draw
the most current, with the dekatron drawing not even a milliamp. So
make the nixie voltage straight out, without the multiplier, then
double or triple the voltage for the dekatron. ie, 180V nixie & 3x ->
540V dekatron, or 220V nixie & 2x -> 440V dekatron.
Jan Rychter
Jan 23, 2012, 6:56:49 AM1/23/12
to neoni...@googlegroups.com
I built a PSU with a voltage doubler (200V doubled to get 400V). With 1mA of output current on the doubled 400V output the ripple isn't a problem at all. I think it was around 10V P-P.
--J.
dr pepper
Jan 23, 2012, 8:50:13 AM1/23/12
to neonixie-l
Thats interesting, I'm using 4 by IN1's, but not a a101 I have a OG3
single pulse dekatron.
I have a supply breadboarded, it puts 210 out for the nixies, I use a
12k anode resistor, befroe you shout my tubes are multiplexed by 5 (4
tubes and another slot for some neons).
My supply uses a 555 I like things simple, the supply produces and
regulates 210 and then theres a cockroft walton voltage doubler to
give me 420 for the dekatron. It works well, the only thing I noticed
is that when the IN9 neon bargraph gets toward full scale the dekatron
glows changes just a smidgeon, not because the supply has bottomed I
think theres some noise affecting it, but its not noticeable enough to
worry about.
The clock is looking good so far, I'd like to find a way of making the
power supply quiter, it takes out the 60kc msf receiver completely
when it fires up, not so much of an issue with my project, the nixies
are off most of the time, the system responds to a standard tv remote
control and fires up the display for 10 secs on command.
single pulse dekatron.
I have a supply breadboarded, it puts 210 out for the nixies, I use a
12k anode resistor, befroe you shout my tubes are multiplexed by 5 (4
tubes and another slot for some neons).
My supply uses a 555 I like things simple, the supply produces and
regulates 210 and then theres a cockroft walton voltage doubler to
give me 420 for the dekatron. It works well, the only thing I noticed
is that when the IN9 neon bargraph gets toward full scale the dekatron
glows changes just a smidgeon, not because the supply has bottomed I
think theres some noise affecting it, but its not noticeable enough to
worry about.
The clock is looking good so far, I'd like to find a way of making the
power supply quiter, it takes out the 60kc msf receiver completely
when it fires up, not so much of an issue with my project, the nixies
are off most of the time, the system responds to a standard tv remote
control and fires up the display for 10 secs on command.
threeneurons
Jan 23, 2012, 12:14:05 PM1/23/12
to neonixie-l
On Jan 23, 5:50 am, dr pepper <seaking.helicopt...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thats interesting, I'm using 4 by IN1's, OG3 ... dekatron.
> 210 out for the nixies, I use a 12k anode resistor, ... tubes are multiplexed
by quick-n-dirty calculations. Which is okay for your mux'd operation.
An OG3 runs just at about 1mA. The big current hog is that IN9
bargraph, which will pull 12mA full scale. That's why you notice the
change on the dekatron. Why not try a IN13 bargraph instead ? It only
draws 4.5mA full scale. The color is different. That might be a
personal preference. I can't dictate your personal taste, that's what
wive's are for.
> Thats interesting, I'm using 4 by IN1's, OG3 ... dekatron.
> 210 out for the nixies, I use a 12k anode resistor, ... tubes are multiplexed
> by 5 (4 tubes and another slot for some neons).
>... uses a 555 ... produces and regulates 210 and ... doubler to
> give me 420 for the dekatron. It works well, the only thing I noticed
> is that when the IN9 neon bargraph gets toward full scale the dekatron
> glows changes just a smidgeon,
With a 12K resistor, the nixie current works out to between 5 and 7mA,
> is that when the IN9 neon bargraph gets toward full scale the dekatron
> glows changes just a smidgeon,
by quick-n-dirty calculations. Which is okay for your mux'd operation.
An OG3 runs just at about 1mA. The big current hog is that IN9
bargraph, which will pull 12mA full scale. That's why you notice the
change on the dekatron. Why not try a IN13 bargraph instead ? It only
draws 4.5mA full scale. The color is different. That might be a
personal preference. I can't dictate your personal taste, that's what
wive's are for.
John Rehwinkel
Jan 23, 2012, 1:39:30 PM1/23/12
to neoni...@googlegroups.com
> Why not try a IN13 bargraph instead ? It only
> draws 4.5mA full scale. The color is different.
> draws 4.5mA full scale. The color is different.
May or may not be different: IN-9s come in both purple (argon) and orange (neon).
- John
dr pepper
Jan 24, 2012, 8:56:53 AM1/24/12
to neonixie-l
In9's were in the bits box, simple as that really, judging by the
colour its argon, I got it at 10mA full scale, I spose the accuracy
isnt all that good, rusky stock.
The tube gets warm after a while it burns around a watt or so.
Good to see that the setup for the IN1's looks ok to you guys.
My deka pulls only about 600uA with a 470k anode resistor, I might try
a 330k and burn it a bit brighter, its only only short periods anyway.
I like your site 3 neurons, I nicked the detect zero idea off one of
your clocks, I came up with a similar idea but not quite as effective,
you've abviously been through the grief of making it work.
I might just order a couple of IN13's in case something goes wrong,
the 555 circuit seems ok with it even though the prototype uses a
satuarable inductor (a coil with a magnet inside, part of a voltage
regulator for a telly), must make a proper one.
colour its argon, I got it at 10mA full scale, I spose the accuracy
isnt all that good, rusky stock.
The tube gets warm after a while it burns around a watt or so.
Good to see that the setup for the IN1's looks ok to you guys.
My deka pulls only about 600uA with a 470k anode resistor, I might try
a 330k and burn it a bit brighter, its only only short periods anyway.
I like your site 3 neurons, I nicked the detect zero idea off one of
your clocks, I came up with a similar idea but not quite as effective,
you've abviously been through the grief of making it work.
I might just order a couple of IN13's in case something goes wrong,
the 555 circuit seems ok with it even though the prototype uses a
satuarable inductor (a coil with a magnet inside, part of a voltage
regulator for a telly), must make a proper one.
dr pepper
Jan 25, 2012, 9:45:54 AM1/25/12
to neonixie-l
I have my latest prototype of the radio controlled IN1 nixie/ IV9
bargraph/ OG3 dekatron clock working.
It syncs to the npl time signal fine, and does error checking every
minute, you can adjust the time on a single button if theres no
signal, it keeps time on its own too if required.
Heres some nasty pics, I havent got enough croc leads to connect the
dekatron as well as all this stuff, but it works.
Theres no noticeable difference when you call the speaking clock on
the 'phone and the clocks display, smart.
Couldnt work out posting photos, heres some links, nothing special in
fact its a right mess but its a prototype.
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan002-1.jpg
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan001-1.jpg
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan003.jpg
On 24 Jan, 13:56, dr pepper <seaking.helicopt...@gmail.com>
> > - John- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
bargraph/ OG3 dekatron clock working.
It syncs to the npl time signal fine, and does error checking every
minute, you can adjust the time on a single button if theres no
signal, it keeps time on its own too if required.
Heres some nasty pics, I havent got enough croc leads to connect the
dekatron as well as all this stuff, but it works.
Theres no noticeable difference when you call the speaking clock on
the 'phone and the clocks display, smart.
Couldnt work out posting photos, heres some links, nothing special in
fact its a right mess but its a prototype.
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan002-1.jpg
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan001-1.jpg
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan003.jpg
On 24 Jan, 13:56, dr pepper <seaking.helicopt...@gmail.com>
>
> - Show quoted text -
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