14-digit nixie calculator project with clock function

[newxito]

I started with the display board. I don’t know if it’s possible to multiplex 14 nixies with enough brightness, so I decided to use direct drive. Now waiting for small neons for the dots and the minus sign. I already ordered the controller board, the board for the keyboard (MX keys) and the keycaps.

[Nicholas Stock]

Cool! I’ve always wanted to build a nixie calculator....I bought a set of Scott Baker’s pcb’s to do such a thing, but I could not got more details out of him about construction..

https://www.smbaker.com/nixie-tube-calculator-powered-by-a-raspberry-pi

Anyone else on the list have success with this by any chance?

Nick

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 10, 2020, at 00:29, newxito <axt...@gmail.com> wrote:



I started with the display board. I don’t know if it’s possible to multiplex 14 nixies with enough brightness, so I decided to use direct drive. Now waiting for small neons for the dots and the minus sign. I already ordered the controller board, the board for the keyboard (MX keys) and the keycaps.

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<calc.jpg>

[martin martin]

that is too cool. I want one!

~

mcve...@gmail.com

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[Mac Doktor]

On Jan 10, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Nicholas Stock <nick...@gmail.com> wrote:

Cool! I’ve always wanted to build a nixie calculator....I bought a set of Scott Baker’s pcb’s to do such a thing, but I could not got more details out of him about construction..

I've wondered about him. He's obviously fairly knowledgable (more than myself, anyway) but I've noticed that he doesn't seem to answer any questions in the comments. Has anyone else had any communication with him? I hate to think that his blog is a little more vanity than information (which I've sadly seen before).

Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor"

"Every kid starts out as a natural-born scientist, and then we beat it out of them. A few trickle through the system with their wonder and enthusiasm for science intact."—Carl Sagan, Psychology Today, 1996

[newxito]

The 14 neons for the dots and minus sign are now installed and everything seems to work fine. The board with the switches is also fully assembled, it uses a HT16K33. I will start with this keyboard layout. I have to start now designing the case, that’s the hardest part of this project. If the case looks ok, I probably will design a new board with more keys and functions and buy some custom keycaps. By the way, custom keycaps seem to be really expensive!

[Bill Notfaded]

That's neat!

Bill

[newxito]

Made some progress with the case but I don't like the keyboard at all. I designed a new keyboard with the standard functions. Any source for custom keycaps that you can recommend? 

Not sure about the acrylic for the display, maybe brown or gray...

[Richard Scales]

Many Many years ago (1980 ish) I was involved in what were known at the time as Microcomputer Terminals. These were Z80 based machines running CP/M which used serial Terminals (VDU's) for I/O. We created some software which required custom key caps so I (as the junior!) was sent off with a bag of blank keys down to a local company who engraved lettering into the surface of the keys which was then filled with some white paint - et voila - customised keycaps.

Wind the clock forward 40 years (that's scary!) and things like cnc routers are more common place - I have a desktop CNC router myself and I can see that it would be no major issue to cut letters and words into the surface of a blank key. 

Assuming one had or had access to a small router, that would be a way of achieving your goal.

Just my 2 cents as they say!

Richard

[newxito]

Thanks for your input, Richard. I don’t have access to a CNC device right now, but such a router is on the top of my (maker) wish list.

I have found a place where you can define the text and color (no graphics) of every keycap for an entire keyboard. So, basically you get 104 custom keycaps for 50$, that’s ok for me, I will only made one or two of these calculators. 

[newxito]

Here is the finished IN-17 calculator. I thought programming a calculator would be a 2 hour job. I was wrong...

For this project I switched to VS Code, PlatformIO and Git. I think it was worth the effort, the editor is great with the IntelliSense thing, really helpful.

I will now make an IN-16 version, I already have the boards. 

[David Eustace]

Congratulations, this looks absolutely amazing. I guess many of us look at the Anita calculators and wonder how our bank balance could take the strain!

I would love to make this, do you plan to write up the project in full anywhere? Apologies If I've missed that info already.

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[Nicholas Stock]

That's pretty amazing actually......looks like it's from a bygone age.

I'd love one on my office desk. Go on, release the plans....or sell some PCB's....???

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[jb-electronics]

Looks amazing! Are these Cherry-type switches from a computer keyboard?

Cheers

Jens

[Instrument Resources of America]

What???  No 'trig' functions?????  All kidding aside, a very nice job indeed. You should be very proud of that.   Ira.

[Paul Andrews]

That's amazing

[newxito]

Yes, Cherry switches, the blue clicky ones...

[newxito]

These are some of the keycaps for the 'extended edition'... just kidding :-)

[newxito]

Sorry that I don’t share the electronics. See https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/neonixie-l/txmEbShA3CI (I’m not an EE...)

For the keyboard I’m using a HT16K33 in a 3 x 9 matrix

The display board uses 5 cascaded HV5622 shift registers. Since the IN-17 has no dot, I had to use 3mm neons. Also, a 3mm neon is used for the minus sign.

If anyone is interested, feel free to use or modify the case STL files, at your own risk. Check the build dimensions of your 3D printer. The front panel is a piece of transparent brown acrylic (203mm x 50mm x 3mm). In the back, there are 3 holes where you can mount the IO-shield for your controller.

For the top and the keyboard cover I have used wood filament, the surface looks much nicer than normal PLA. The label is just a small ENIG PCB.

Note for mounting the keyboard in the case:

screw->washer->bottom panel->20mm spacer->PCB(1.6mm),10mm spacer->keyboard cover->screw and screw->washer->bottom panel->thin washer->PCB(1.6mm)->10mm spacer->keyboard cover->screw

[GastonP]

Very nice!!!

[newxito]

This is the IN-16 version, theoretically this thing should fit in the same case as the IN-17 version. We'll see, the case is still printing…

[newxito]

I was lucky, it fits in the case without any changes, but there is only 2mm between the tallest tube and the case cover.

[newxito]

This is the finished IN-16 version. I'll add some more clock modes with date and some animations with the decimal points. That’s it!

[Mac Doktor]

On Feb 17, 2020, at 3:18 PM, newxito <axt...@gmail.com> wrote:

This is the finished IN-16 version. I'll add some more clock modes with date and some animations with the decimal points. That’s it!

Looks great. All that needs to be done to perfect it is to switch to RPN and make the display hexadecimal. I'm sure that a custom Nixie tube could be made for that.

Let's see, aside from numerals 0-9 each tube would have the capital letters A through F, a decimal point and a comma, and a dollar sign. The latter would be used as a prefix before the most-significant digit. For example, in 8 bit (byte) mode "123456789.123" would display as

"$07,5B,CD,15.1F,7C,ED,91,68,72,B0,20,C4,9C"

32 bit mode would be 

"$075BCD15.1F7CED91,6872B020,C49C"

Hmm. Hard to read. Perhaps a special comma-like thingy would make it easier to see the individual bytes. Suggestions welcome.

Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor"

https://www.astarcloseup.com/

“The book said something astonishing, a very big thought.
It said that the stars were suns, only very far away.
The Sun was a star, but close up.”—Carl Sagan, Cosmos, 1980

[newxito]

I added a stopwatch function to the calculator. I'm a little bit concerned about the nixies displaying the 100th of a second because of the fast digit switching. Will this shorten the life of the tubes? I don’t know if this is similar to multiplexing.

[newxito]

Currently working on the B-5870 version, all digits and decimal points work fine. I really like these nixies…

Any recommendation for the anode resistor value (170V)? 

In the datasheet the anode resistor value is 7.5k, so I’m using 8.2k but not sure if that is too low.

[Jack Buechler]

If you use commonly found tubes – then this would be a great project ot share / buy / sell /barter etc.

 

Whats the plan please? Is there a plan?

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[newxito]

No plans at all, sorry. I don't share or sell because I don't want to deal with open hardware licenses and liability issues. Perhaps one day one of the engineers on this forum may decide to create a professionally designed calculator kit. I have no idea if there is a demand for such a kit, apparently a Kickstarter project has already failed.

[newxito]

The B-5870 calculator is now finished. In this version I made some minor changes to the case, added more keys and functions and there is now a RGB backlight. 

This is definitely the last version, the project got a little bit out of control :-)

[Nicholas Stock]

Amazing! I'd love to build one of these (as would many others I'm sure).....any plans to open source or similar?

On Mon, Oct 26, 2020 at 3:59 PM newxito <axt...@gmail.com> wrote:

The B-5870 calculator is now finished. In this version I made some minor changes to the case, added more keys and functions and there is now a RGB backlight. 

This is definitely the last version, the project got a little bit out of control :-)

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[martin martin]

I'm with Nicholas!  I need one also-

~

mcve...@gmail.com

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[David Forbes]

That's really cool! I have wanted to make a Nixie tube version of an HP-11 for years, but got stuck on the keyboard.

I have a box of +- tubes if you're interested.

On Mon, Oct 26, 2020, 3:59 PM newxito <axt...@gmail.com> wrote:

The B-5870 calculator is now finished. In this version I made some minor changes to the case, added more keys and functions and there is now a RGB backlight. 

This is definitely the last version, the project got a little bit out of control :-)

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[newxito]

Aside from the arguments already mentioned of why I don't share, sell, make a kit, etc., the design has some issues:

- I'm using a self-made homebrew HV power supply module (picture) mounted on the controller board. It would be better to use a well-tested, well designed separate PSU.

- I’m using my “standard” clock board as the controller. There are a lot of unnecessary components not needed for the calculator. Also, the used DC-DC converters for 3.3V and 5V need a lot of external components and nonstandard resistor values. In general, the controller should be much simpler if we want to make an open source thing.

- The keycaps are a real problem. I was not able to find a payable source for single custom keycaps. I had to design the keycaps for an entire keyboard, 104 for 60$, that's a reasonable price. The calculator has 35 keys, so 104 divided by 35 is 2.97... at least you can build 2 calculators, right? Wrong. The keycaps are not identical, there are some for row1, row2, row3, row4....

- The case is 3D printed and the size matches exactly the max print area of my printer. Special brass, bronze or wood filament with a hardened nozzle is needed to get a nice finish. A laser cut case would be better.

- And finally, the neon for the minus sign should be on the right :-)

[newxito]

I finally got the backlight working. There is a bug in the Neopixel library when running on ESP32

[Aiden Fang]

What a piece of art! 

[Richard Scales]

I've just re-read this thread and really like the way that this project has developed. I think I need to make one at some point. I have no idea how one might go about programming a calculator but would love to find out about it. I'm guessing that it took a bit longer than the 2hrs you'd planned?

I would be interested in making the IN-17 version - mostly because I have plenty on hand.

What made you settle on using 14 digits?

 - Richard

On Friday, 10 January 2020 08:29:54 UTC, newxito wrote:

I started with the display board. I don’t know if it’s possible to multiplex 14 nixies with enough brightness, so I decided to use direct drive. Now waiting for small neons for the dots and the minus sign. I already ordered the controller board, the board for the keyboard (MX keys) and the keycaps.

[newxito]

The number of digits was determined by the maximum print area of my 3D printer.

The software is still in progress, there are some features I would like to add:

- switch between radians and degrees

- fixed decimals mode, right now there is only a floating mode

- padding mode with leading zeroes 

- automatic return to clock mode after some idle time

- support for a tiny PIR inside the case, hope it works through the acrylic

[Dekatron42]

I just spotted this one: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/duktig-toy-cash-register-80256501/ maybe it could be used as a base for those who want to build a calculator with fewer digits?

I do not know what it looks like inside but it seems to be space enough for the electronics.

/Martin

[newxito]

I’m currently cleaning up the project. I’m writing down BOMs and making some changes on the boards. I moved the neon for the negative sign to the right.

I designed a new controller for the calculator with no HV power supply and other unused components. The old controller was the main reason not to share the project. I probably will order the boards next week.

I’m also working on a second version of the case in order to reduce the required print area of the 3D printer, basically, by splitting the bottom plate in 2 parts. Right now, printing the full plate takes about 10 hours, many things can go wrong.

[newxito]

I’m cleaning up the firmware of the calculator and I have moved the code for the calculations to a small separate library. 

Actually, I would like to learn how to build unit tests and that’s the ideal type of library to start with. 

But I quickly found out that this is boring and not fun… so, no unit tests...

If someone is interested, here is the link :

https://github.com/axtar/NixieCalc

[newxito]

In case anyone is still interested, there is some work in progress to make the project (IN-16 and IN-17 versions) available on github. 

The original project was not suitable for sharing for various reasons. I’ currently assembling two new calculators to test the changes I have made to improve the project:

- Smaller and simpler controller board with easy to solder parts. A hot air gun is no longer needed. Also, the HV part has been removed, so now you can use your favorite HV PSU (assuming it fits in the case and provides enough current for 14 nixies).

- The keyboard circuit has been redesigned using a classic matrix with an ATmega328p instead of the HT16K33. It is now easier to detect simultaneous keystrokes, so more levels of functions can be added to the keyboard

- The display boards have been completely redesigned to use socket boards for the nixies. That should fix the biggest issue with the old design. It’s now a lot easier to replace a broken tube 

        (see the only document I have uploaded so far, so you can get a first impression)

- Major firmware changes in progress. All the settings can now be adjusted using the keyboard, a network connection is no longer needed. Actually, I will completely remove the network code. 

If everything works as expected, I hope I will have the project ready to share by end of June. 

https://github.com/axtar/14-digits-nixie-calculator

[Michail Wilson]

Looking forward to it.

 

Michail Wilson

206-920-6312

 

From: neoni...@googlegroups.com <neoni...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of newxito
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2021 9:50 AM
To: neonixie-l <neoni...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: 14-digit nixie calculator project with clock function

 

In case anyone is still interested, there is some work in progress to make the project (IN-16 and IN-17 versions) available on github. 

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[Mac Doktor]

On May 16, 2021, at 12:50 PM, newxito <axt...@gmail.com> wrote:

In case anyone is still interested, there is some work in progress to make the project (IN-16 and IN-17 versions) available on github. 

All it needs now is a plus/minus tube on the left. And a capital E on the right to indicate scientific notation (for when it over/underflows). Or perhaps some alphanumeric tubes for hexadecimal? I love bases that are even powers of two.

Any possibility of an RPN version? It took me years to get used to my new HP (old one bricked on me). I picked it up one day and after a minute of punching away I suddenly realized that I no longer had to stop and think about how to use it first. Now I can't use an algebraic calculator at all. 

Perhaps it's time to get back into programming in FORTH. I always found stack manipulation intuitive.

Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor"

https://www.astarcloseup.com/

“...the book said something astonishing, a very big thought. The stars, it said, were suns but very far away. The Sun was a star but close up.”—Carl Sagan, "The Backbone Of Night", Cosmos, 1980

[newxito]

My knowledge about non-numeric nixies is very limited. I know the IN-19 versions matching the IN-14 tubes and the IN-15 versions for the IN-12, that's it.  

I used IN-16 and IN-17 because they are only 13mm wide. I don't know if there are +, -, E tubes that will fit. That's why I used a horizontal neon bulb for the minus sign. The reason why the minus sign is now on the right is just a personal preference. A non-floating minus sign on the left looked kind of strange. Since I will provide the EasyEDA project files, this could be changed with little effort. 

Displaying results using scientific notation should be only a firmware change. Instead of an E, a blank tube in between should do the job. The decimal point of the blank tube could indicate a negative exponent.

Anyway, there are no plans to implement scientific notation, 14 digits are good enough for my needs :-) 

Errors and over/underflows are indicated showing the 14 decimal points

I’m not sure, but I think making a RPN version should be just a firmware thing and some keycap legend changes (Enter) 

[Mac Doktor]

Apologies upfront. It was late at night and I was at least 51% joking around... 8D

On May 17, 2021, at 4:18 AM, newxito <axt...@gmail.com> wrote:

My knowledge about non-numeric nixies is very limited. I know the IN-19 versions matching the IN-14 tubes and the IN-15 versions for the IN-12, that's it.  

That's essentially it. It's my understanding that the IN-7x complements the IN-4 but I've never seen it done. And IIRC the IN-4 has no mercury so longevity is an issue. Everyone feel free to correct me. I'm only half awake right now.

I'd really like to know what the IN-5x(-1) variants were used for. I get the impression that the glyphs are the first letters of Russian words like "hour" or something but that's just a guess.

I used IN-16 and IN-17 because they are only 13mm wide. I don't know if there are +, -, E tubes that will fit.

I'm sure there are non-Soviet tubes small enough for the +/-. Smaller would look OK. A small sideview "E" might be slightly trickier to find.

That's why I used a horizontal neon bulb for the minus sign. The reason why the minus sign is now on the right is just a personal preference. A non-floating minus sign on the left looked kind of strange.

I hadn't thought about that. 

Displaying results using scientific notation should be only a firmware change. Instead of an E, a blank tube in between should do the job. The decimal point of the blank tube could indicate a negative exponent.

On my HP 35s it displays a diminutive capital  "E" before the exponent.

Anyway, there are no plans to implement scientific notation, 14 digits are good enough for my needs :-) 

If I run into it I know I probably hit the wrong button. I only have 12 visible digits.

Errors and over/underflows are indicated showing the 14 decimal points

Another example of leveraging what you have.

I’m not sure, but I think making a RPN version should be just a firmware thing and some keycap legend changes (Enter)

Yeah, I could re-write the whole in FORTH. 

The "ENTER" key would have to be relocated and made wider. I'd also need √, 1/X, y^x, π, and a destructive backspace (delete).

This turned out to be useful discussion after all. All blue-sky on my part but fun.

Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor"

https://www.astarcloseup.com

[newxito]

Today I assembled the IN-16 calculator and wrote the assembly instructions. Documenting things seems to be hard work…

I’ve uploaded the instructions, “Docs/Assembling the IN-16 calculator.pdf”  

[newxito]

I really thought I was done with the hardware... the keyboard has a FTDI header to program the firmware, but I completely forgot that there must be also a way to upload the bootloader for the 328p-AU directly on the keyboard. I normally use my prog tool with a TQFP-32 socket for that. Anyway, I have designed a new revision of the keyboard with a new header. The additional header should allow to upload the bootloader using a standard Arduino. Now waiting for the board for testing...

[tntmod54321]

Very nice, looking forward to see your calculator.

On Sat, Jun 19, 2021, 6:48 AM newxito <axt...@gmail.com> wrote:

I really thought I was done with the hardware... the keyboard has a FTDI header to program the firmware, but I completely forgot that there must be also a way to upload the bootloader for the 328p-AU directly on the keyboard. I normally use my prog tool with a TQFP-32 socket for that. Anyway, I have designed a new revision of the keyboard with a new header. The additional header should allow to upload the bootloader using a standard Arduino. Now waiting for the board for testing...

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[newxito]

Well, it's end of June…

newxito schrieb am Sonntag, 16. Mai 2021 um 18:50:17 UTC+2:

If everything works as expected, I hope I will have the project ready to share by end of June. 

https://github.com/axtar/14-digits-nixie-calculator

 

Unfortunately, I didn't have time to clean up the firmware. At least I managed to remove the network code. Anyway, I uploaded a first version so that the bare calculator functionality can be tested. I will continue to work on the firmware and merge the new settings part and the clock mode as soon as I have some time.

[Audrey]

Nice, nice

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[newxito]

I made the project available on github, but there is no way to build it. I used the AP63203WU-7 and AP63205WU-7 voltage regulators. They were new, cheap, easy to solder, and widely available. Now you have to wait until March 2023 to get one, just insane ...

[newxito]

I uploaded a little video about the calculator. Go to 12:00 if you want to see a short test.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KR2cea_1trw

[newxito]

I still had some controllers and keyboards lying around so I decided to make an IN-12A version of the calculator… 14 digits, of course :-)

The display/driver board was easy to design but the big challenge now is to create a case for this thing… first prototype is printing...

[Michail Wilson]

Nice.

 

Display both time and date.

 

As for a display case, an easy choice might be one of those acrylic cases for a baseball bat.  😊

 

Michail Wilson

206-920-6312

 

From: neoni...@googlegroups.com <neoni...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of newxito
Sent: Saturday, October 1, 2022 9:54 AM
To: neonixie-l <neoni...@googlegroups.com>

 

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[Bill Notfaded]

I bought a new large format resin printer for making cases.  https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-jupiter-resin-3d-printer-6k-mono-msla-3d-printer

I haven't started using it yet but I waited for months after buying it on Kickstarter at a big discount.

Bill

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[Adrian Godwin]

I will be interested to see how that works out.

I have an old (aka obsolete) but fairly large resin printer, but the materials I've used so far aren't very attractive as outer cases - featureless grey or off-white. FDM is also poor : if you can make a feature of the flaws, as with the shimmer effect of silk PLA then they can look amazing, but even that would quickly tire if everything was made of it, and the toolpath isn't always optimised for appearance.

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CADToqn1uBTbX%2BZ58ecWuftUFwwC8xhD-yNFRAMUwXUG6rrGUdA%40mail.gmail.com.

[newxito]

Prusaslicer has a feature called ironing. After a little bid of sanding the PLA top surfaces look quite ok.

There are also some pcb manufacturers that offer 3D printing with interesting prices and nice finish. 

> As for a display case, an easy choice might be one of those acrylic cases for a baseball bat.  😊

Thanks, Michail... that's plan B :-)

... the prototype case is still printing...

[newxito]

No worries, this is a strictly limited edition, this thing is serial number 1 of 1 :-)
I cheated a little bit; I just modified the original case and connected the display part with a metal tube. 

[Dave ZL3FJ]

Good work-very space age looking. 

But here’s a Burroughs original - all 16 digits of it….. from the 1960s, IIRC.

DaveB, NZ

 

From: neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of newxito
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2022 20:59
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: 14-digit nixie calculator project with clock function

 

No worries, this is a strictly limited edition, this thing is serial number 1 of 1 :-)

I cheated a little bit; I just modified the original case and connected the display part with a metal tube. 

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[Adrian Godwin]

I used to work on Canon machines for my father's business in the '70s. They were mostly 12 or 14 digit.

I wonder why they used so many digits in an era when they were so expensive ? 8 or maybe 10 seemed to be enough in the LED era.

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/008901d8d703%2495d07510%24c1715f30%24%40silverbears.nz.

[Max Di Noi]

Just curious, what is the power of the high voltage power supply? I suppose you need 35mA but really at least 60mA to avoid any heating issues? 

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[MrNixie (UK)]

Hello, I have been thinking about having a stab at a nixie calculator myself! My stumbling block was the keys (specifically, the key caps). What is your source for these?

[newxito]

I use a flyback design based on a schematic from the LT3757 datasheet. The version I made for the calculator goes up to 70 mA. Since this project only needs max. 40mA,  I use a 50mA fuse.

The efficiency is quite good (>90% from 30 to 70mA), so no problems with heat. 

[Max Di Noi]

Thank you. That made me smile: I'm working on a power supply with that chip (I believe Taylor's use the same) and I have that exact transformer (great quality) as well as a custom one (had wired, then I got a batch of 50 made). The idea is to build a power supply for 100mA 175v. My version works very well up 65-70mA but that core heats up a bit over 70mA and definitely at 100mA while the voltage stays at 175v, no drop.

I think that core can only take no more than 11 watts. Coilcraft makes bigger flyback transformer, I'll experiment as time allows. 

Power supplies are fascinating and that's how I spend my time when I'm not building the next nixie watch :) 

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[newxito]

I found that single custom key caps are very expensive. Since I made only a few of these calculators, I ordered complete sets with 104 custom key caps (for an entire keyboard) at WASD. 

The problem with that, is that these keys have different shapes (row 1-4) and sizes.

I you find a better solution, please let me know! 

[Paul Andrews]

That looks wonderful

[martin martin]

fab calc!

~

mcve...@gmail.com

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[Max Di Noi]

Thanks for your reply.

That is an excellent transformer indeed. 

I have made a custom version of it, slightly smaller, it goes up to 100mA (gets a little warm but not much) and can comfortably take 70mA too. It can comfortably take 6 RZ568M nixies made by Dalibor.

I am now looking at the Taylor’s transformers, I believe Dalibor uses them in his 6 digit nixie clocks so I was curious to build the same power supply (just for fun, they are so cheap that it’s easies to buy them). Such power supply use a coupled inductor, which is interesting and impressive at the same time as 1 power supply can indeed support 6 large RZ568M, it seems. I have tried with 4x RZ568M and Taylor’s power supply gets warm more than I’d like so I’ll look to review the spec of the coupled inductor. The power supply I have built using LT1619 works well with my custom transformer, but this idea of using a couple inductor may work well while saving a few millimetres of space.

If anyone has experience with the maths of coupled inductors, please let me know.

On 3 Oct 2022, at 13:39, newxito <axt...@gmail.com> wrote:

I use a flyback design based on a schematic from the LT3757 datasheet. The version I made for the calculator goes up to 70 mA. Since this project only needs max. 40mA,  I use a 50mA fuse.

The efficiency is quite good (>90% from 30 to 70mA), so no problems with heat. 

<PSU.jpg>

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/172875b7-1418-481e-804a-7c23e7329333n%40googlegroups.com.
<PSU.jpg>

[newxito]

I was ‘kindly asked’ to make another IN-12 calculator. So, I’ve decided to document the making of this one and upload the files to the project on github. For now, I have uploaded the schematics and the case. By the way, it consists of 17 printed parts,  luckily, the new case is already printed...

 
OT: For some of the parts (for example the keyboard shield) I used the ironing feature of the slicer. On my 3D printer, in order to avoid nozzle clogging after ironing, I have to add some lines of G-code to increase the temperature und advance some filament before the cooling phase starts. After sanding with 120 and finally wet sanding with 180-grit sandpaper the surface looks really nice. For me, sanding works only with light colors, like the light gray I’m using for this project. I don’t know why, but after sanding dark PLA, the surface is ok, but the color is no longer uniform.

[Michail Wilson]

Looks great. 

 

PLA – What I have done after sanding on black pla is to take a torch (lighter) and graze over the area.  It quickly turns back to the color you would expect.

 

Michail

 

From: neoni...@googlegroups.com <neoni...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of newxito
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2022 5:08 AM
To: neonixie-l <neoni...@googlegroups.com>

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[newxito]

Heat really seems to help, I tried with a heat gun. After applying heat I polished with a vegetable oil and now looks a lot better. I hope the smell goes away :-)

Thanks!

[newxito]

I added individual RGB lighting for each nixies for all 4 versions. 14 LED is a little overkill, but it looks nice. I also added a simple peripherals module. As always, I’m behind with the firmware but I will upload the code soon.

https://github.com/axtar/14-digits-nixie-calculator

[newxito]

I uploaded a draft of the calculator manual. This will be the functionality of the first public firmware release...  still work in progress...

https://github.com/axtar/14-digits-nixie-calculator/blob/main/Docs/14-digit%20Nixie%20Calculator%20Manual.pdf

[Yohan Park]

Aaw, no π key to show off the 13 decimals ;)

But seriously, awesome job!!!

[newxito]

For pi press [F] + [sin] :-)

[Yohan Park]

Ha ha, awesome :D

[Yohan Park]

Why should the minus sign be on the right?

There's no rule that says the numbers have to allign to the right side of the display. Why not allign them to the left?

So instead of displaying  -..........1234 make it display -1234.......... (the dots represent non lit tubes).

On Tuesday, October 27, 2020 at 3:08:48 PM UTC+1 newxito wrote:

...

- And finally, the neon for the minus sign should be on the right :-)

[newxito]

You're right... I think it was a personal preference although I changed my mind again with the IN-12 version and placed the IN-15A  on the left side