(cisco Controller) Transfer ((NEW)) Download Start
Franka Gaffigan
You can use the debug transfer all enable command in order to view the events that occur in the controller software upgrade process. Here is an example, which shows the debug command output used for a successful software upgrade:
I am stuck with one controller, wich is saying "Transfer cannot happen because at least one AP is upgrading", when i type "transfer download start" in cli. All the other controllers, wich were on the same code hasn't presented any problems. All the APs on the controller have different images, some have the new(7.6.120.0) and some the old, wich is 7.4.121.0
thx for the answer but for a productive enviroment it is not so easy to downgrade or upgrade over 2500 Access Points. We solved the Problem that we rebooted the controller over the Prime Infrastructure and then it was able to start the transfer.
Interesting. Thanks Darren. Well, the problem is that there are 0 APs downloading, so we can't find wich AP that is stuck. One solution would be to move the APs to another controller, only it's pretty much work, about 450 aps on that controller. Or to reset them all, and meanwhile start code transfer, seems risky though. The 7.6.120.0 code doesn't seem stable.
Resetting all the APs on the controller, and then found one that didn't reset(in cli). We shut the port on the one that didn't reset, and then issued reset on all APs again, and then started the code transfer. That worked. Thanks for all input.
Before transferring the configuration file over from the controller to your MAC. It is always a good idea to test the connection to your FTP server locally to make sure that you have the right credentials to connect.
Important note: Your MAC computer has to be connected to the wired network in order for the transfer to work. The controller will not allow the transfer if you are connected from the Wi-Fi network.
If you wish to push the firmware manually via TFTP or FTP, you can use the following commands below (order doesn't matter as long as transfer download start is entered last). The process is the same for uploading the firmware to the WLC, you only need to swap out the filename for either the FUS firmware or WLC firmware.
The Brawler64 is compatible with 1st party and most 3rd party memory paks. Due to the wireless technology, the memory paks are loaded into the included wireless dongle and are not inserted into the controller itself. For the same reason, rumble and transfer paks are not compatible with the Brawler64 Wireless Edition.
Yep, I am having the same problem. I do think the left USB port is bad, as only certain cables work in it, and a thumb drive I have the boot up software on lights up on the right one, but not the left one. I'm curious what PS4 people are using. I have the Star Wars special edition with the Vader logo on it. I've tried like 10 different cables, 10 different controllers. They all will show the orange soft glow light, and when I push the PS button, it blinks white, goes dark, and then eventually goes orange again. I've unplugged it, restarted, tried the two beeps start up. I've plugged the cords and controllers into other PS4s that work, and they work. It's gotta be the USB ports. That's all I can think of. And if it is, what can you do about it?
I have the same problem. Sort of. Just bought a ps4 pro bloke said it was working and he'd initialized it. First off I figured it had a corrupt hard drive. Replaced the hdd. It came with a wired controller and I've got a wireless one too. Turn on the ps4 the wireless controller lights up but won't connect just flashes then turns off. Use the wired controller and get to that screen and push the ps button and nothing happens. Ps4 knows its there because if I push the share or start button a message comes up saying can't use the menu or screenshot. I can boot into safe mode and the wired controller works including the ps button. I've initialized. Initialized and used the re install update. Tried software update (all the updates work and install) the system won't rebuild the database just goes to the blue screen. Everything leads to that blue screen only the wired controller will connect but when I push the ps button nothing happens even though it works in safe mode. I'm at a loss.
Still no working fixes available it's not the wire it's not the controller the Bluetooth chip was replaced so it's not that, the wifi antennas we're replaced that wasn't it, bought a third party device which allows controllers to connect as in wires connection but through the Bluetooth of the USB device will connect to safe boot through the device as it were wired into the console, but still won't allow me to get passed the press the PS button during startup and the console is reformatted so there's no getting past the set up screen without connecting the controller hopefully this helps people understand it's not a simple issue you'd of ran into before, it's a very weird and should of been fixed with everything tried to it. Except its not reformating changing hard drives everything you can think we've tried it, brand new OEM Controllers with brand new OEM wires not for charging for pairing.. all these little fixes are not what are issue is. Thanks for the help, but if your just going to suggest the same things over and over, maybe you should actually read the post and the comments, cause having hopes when I get an email from ifixit having someone comment and it's the same thing as your wire is meant for charging, is honestly insulting at this point with how much some of us have spend on a single console worth less than what we paid trying to solve it's issue.
It's a bad left or #1 USB port. Mines bad and can't connect controller after reset to default settings. I know my port is bad it hasn't worked for a long time. Just didn't realize Sony was simple minded enough to only allow the 1 port to start sequence after reset. #2 USB works great just system won't recognize it. So frustrating!
A third revision of the controller was released in November 2020, bundled with Xbox Series X and Series S, while still backward-compatible with existing Xbox One consoles. It has a refined build with a slightly smaller body, a "Share" button on the center of the controller below the "View" and "Menu" buttons, a circular dished D-pad similar to the Elite Controller, and a USB-C connector instead of USB Micro-B.[20][21][22] The controller also supports Bluetooth Low Energy, and can be paired to a Bluetooth device and an Xbox device simultaneously.[23][24] The controller also includes Dynamic Latency Input, sending controller information to the console more frequently and in time with the current framerate as to reduce the latency between user input and reaction in the game.[25] Starting in September 2021 through the Xbox Insider program, Microsoft started rolling out the improved Bluetooth and latency features from these newer controllers to its official Xbox One controllers, including the Xbox Adaptive Controller.[26]
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