New member intro and a question
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Catherine Peele
Apr 1, 2025, 5:00:34 PMApr 1
to NC Rando Cyclists
Hi all,
Stopping in to say "hello" and to get some advice. I'm a rider in Charlotte, and my cycling background is primarily self-supported touring. I became interested in randonneuring because of the self-supported adventure aspect, and on last year's Cycle NC Mountains to Coast, I had the pleasure of talking to one of the Triangle area members. I know I'm getting a late start for this season, but I've joined RUSA and the permanents program and plan to do a some local permanents and 200k brevets to get a taste of things (sadly, not on form to do the 200k this weekend). My current longest day ride is 106 miles.
Something I would appreciate input on is bike selection. I currently ride a steel tourer, which I love for loaded touring, but is inefficient for me on long day rides. I'm torn between getting a gravel bike with ample attachment points and versatility, or a faster endurance road bike. If anyone can speak to that choice, I'd greatly appreciate the feedback, as well as any tips on getting started. Also, if there are any randos in the Charlotte area, please let me know!
Thanks again,
Catherine Peele
Misha Marin Heller
Apr 1, 2025, 5:41:25 PMApr 1
to Catherine Peele, Rando Cyclists NC
Hi Catherine -
Welcome to randonneuring!! Disclaimer: I’m not living in NC (at the moment) but wanted to welcome you as another female rando. I’m glad you signed up and joined our little group of long-distance enthusiasts. It’s a really fun space for fun and friendship and lots of adventure.
As for your bike Q, I think it is very personal and the answer most randos will agree on is that whatever is most comfortable for you is a rando bike! Maybe you lose a little speed on your touring bike, but what do you give up in comfort if you switch? That’s one thing to consider.
I ride a very aerodynamic road bike that most randos wouldn’t be comfortable with. Fit, saddle, even shoes, play a big part in my comfort on this bike. Other randos are very happy on a steel or ti frame with fatter tires. So bottom line is do what makes you most comfortable at the end of the day.
That said, and specific to your question, I have observed a few randos lately transitioning to the endurance style carbon bikes and they’ve been very happy. I’ve got a few friends that love the Canyon Endurace. I also bought a gravel bike with hopes I could swap it out for randonneuring, but so far that hasn’t worked for me and I’m still on the road bike. (Btw/aside: many randonistas love the dual-nosed ISM saddle which might be something to consider as you increase your miles).
Finally, a shameless plug for my brother’s rando club. I recommend that you check out Asheville Randonneurs 2 hours west of you (https://air.bikeavl.com/). My brother Luke is the RBA there and they have a lot of awesome rides to choose from, as well as the most awesome ride buddies around. Maybe I will see you on a ride down there soon!
If not Asheville, come to DC and meet some DC randos :)
Bonne route everyone!
Mish
DC/northern Virginia randonneur (but NC at heart) 🩷🩵
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Lin Osborne
Apr 2, 2025, 3:57:34 PMApr 2
to Catherine Peele, NC Rando Cyclists
Hi Catherine,
It's been a fair number of years since I've ridden brevets (I lurk here despite not having ridden Rando events recently), but my prefered bike for Randonneuring and daily commuting would be what today is called the Endurance Road bicycle. Folks have successfully completed events on a wide variety of bikes, but IMHO there's a value to having a bike that translates our physical exertion into as much speed as possible (and thus distance covered) without beating us up (like a racing bike) or slowing us down (like a touring or gravel bike). On longer events especially, the toll of physical exertion accumulates, so riding an efficient bike makes a meaningful difference.
Though the industry name changes, this style of road bike...one that's optimized to be both efficient and comfortable...has been around for decades. Back in the 80s, the industry called them Sport-Touring bikes. There's been some form of this bike since (and before, for that matter...the design perists).
I've used a touring bike for commuting and distance events...a 1986 Miyata Six-Ten that, like your current bike, was made of a nice quality but heavy gauge steel. It was too stiff and noncompliant for Randonneuring, where we carry some stuff but aren't carrying really heavy loads. The Miyata rode like a truck. It didn't feel smooth until the loaded panniers were attached (so, many pounds of load). And since it was designed to handle a front load, too, the steering geometry was sluggish. I felt like I was fighting the bike.
My experience is that Gravel bikes suffer from a similar character. Since they're designed for off-pavement use (where the front wheel gets jolted by riding over imperfect surfaces), gravel bikes like touring bikes have shallower steering angles, more fork offset (higher trail), and thus higher wheel flop effects. In practice, this means it takes more effort to initiate steering, and once the wheel starts to turn, it wants to continue to turn (flop), and that requires more effort to stop the wheel turn. That's desirable when you have a lot of weight over the front wheel (which counters the effect) or are on a loose surface (where you don't want the front wheel to turn unless instructed), but it's undesirable on asphalt.
I rode almost all brevets using either a 1983 Trek 630 (frame...everything else had been modernized) and, later, a 2006 Trek Pilot (a first-generation Endurance Road bike...Trek's response to the Specialized Roubaix). Bike tech has advanced considerably since, but they are fundamentally similar to modern Endurance Road bikes...they have a mid-length wheelbase of around 1000 - 1010 mm for a 54-55cm/Med frame, higher stack, shorter reach for a more upright position, a *slightly-but-not-too-slack" steering axis angle that, combined with fork offset, creates about 57 to 62 mm trail for handling that's stable and predictable, but still responsive. They strike the middle ground between Touring and Gravel bikes with "slow to respond" steering, and racing bikes that are predisposed to turn when the rider gives an input (whether intended or not).
So, as types of bikes go, I recommend a relatively lightweight, not-too-stiff, efficient-yet-comfortable, stable handling Endurance Road bicycle.
Oh, and get good tires with a relatively low rolling resistance (e.g., Continental GP5000 or similar). It's hard to overstate the difference quality tires make when riding long distances. IMHO, tires are the best upgrade that can be made to any road bike, regardless of type.
Hope this helps,
Though the industry name changes, this style of road bike...one that's optimized to be both efficient and comfortable...has been around for decades. Back in the 80s, the industry called them Sport-Touring bikes. There's been some form of this bike since (and before, for that matter...the design perists).
I've used a touring bike for commuting and distance events...a 1986 Miyata Six-Ten that, like your current bike, was made of a nice quality but heavy gauge steel. It was too stiff and noncompliant for Randonneuring, where we carry some stuff but aren't carrying really heavy loads. The Miyata rode like a truck. It didn't feel smooth until the loaded panniers were attached (so, many pounds of load). And since it was designed to handle a front load, too, the steering geometry was sluggish. I felt like I was fighting the bike.
My experience is that Gravel bikes suffer from a similar character. Since they're designed for off-pavement use (where the front wheel gets jolted by riding over imperfect surfaces), gravel bikes like touring bikes have shallower steering angles, more fork offset (higher trail), and thus higher wheel flop effects. In practice, this means it takes more effort to initiate steering, and once the wheel starts to turn, it wants to continue to turn (flop), and that requires more effort to stop the wheel turn. That's desirable when you have a lot of weight over the front wheel (which counters the effect) or are on a loose surface (where you don't want the front wheel to turn unless instructed), but it's undesirable on asphalt.
I rode almost all brevets using either a 1983 Trek 630 (frame...everything else had been modernized) and, later, a 2006 Trek Pilot (a first-generation Endurance Road bike...Trek's response to the Specialized Roubaix). Bike tech has advanced considerably since, but they are fundamentally similar to modern Endurance Road bikes...they have a mid-length wheelbase of around 1000 - 1010 mm for a 54-55cm/Med frame, higher stack, shorter reach for a more upright position, a *slightly-but-not-too-slack" steering axis angle that, combined with fork offset, creates about 57 to 62 mm trail for handling that's stable and predictable, but still responsive. They strike the middle ground between Touring and Gravel bikes with "slow to respond" steering, and racing bikes that are predisposed to turn when the rider gives an input (whether intended or not).
So, as types of bikes go, I recommend a relatively lightweight, not-too-stiff, efficient-yet-comfortable, stable handling Endurance Road bicycle.
Oh, and get good tires with a relatively low rolling resistance (e.g., Continental GP5000 or similar). It's hard to overstate the difference quality tires make when riding long distances. IMHO, tires are the best upgrade that can be made to any road bike, regardless of type.
Hope this helps,
Lin
Catherine Peele
Apr 3, 2025, 3:44:03 PMApr 3
to Lin Osborne, NC Rando Cyclists
Thank you all for the warm welcome and for the thorough, helpful responses. You've given me a lot to mull over as I continue test riding some bikes and reflecting on my personal riding style and preferences. Hope everyone is getting some enjoyable rides in this week, and happy Flemish Holy Week to all who observe! :)
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