I have a 2010 Ford Fusion 3.0 . The AC compressor cycles 10 sec on 5 sec off 10 sec on and 5 sec off and so on. I took it to the dealer and they said this is normal. I find it strange that the compressor should work this way. Any one has comments or suggestions on the behavoir of this process.
That is not normal from what I know about A/C. Cycling like that is an indication that it is low on freon. When any of my cars start cycling on and off like that, I take it in to have freon added. It usually takes about a pound of freon and the A/C functions normally again without constant cycling.
Yes, it could be low on refrigerant. The dealer should have hooked up a pair of manifold gauges and confirmed the system pressures in response to your inquiry. If the systems is properly charged, the other possible cause would be the evaporator discharge temperature sensor. This temperature sensor prevents ice formation on the evaporator coil by cutting out the compressor when the discharge temperature drops to 36F. Unfortunately, this temp sensor is sometimes very difficult to get to, so the whole dash has to come out so it gets expensive with the labor.
Went to the Dealer today and spoke to the service manager. He said there is a definite problem. He said they will flush the ac system and replace the Desiccant bag. From there they will work from there. He suspects it might be the evaporator sensor. Bringing in the fusion on Monday. They will give me a rental and keep the car for about 3 days.
Mine operates the same way, roughly 10 sec on, 5 sec off (2.5L I-4 engine). Blows cool when the compressor is off, cold when the compressor's on. Googling the topic, I found that this cycling is within the realm of normal operation (read: not unheard of) for other makes and models of the same age (newer BMW's, Toyota's, etc.). I'll mention it to my SM when I'm in for my 30K maintenance in a few weeks.
Ran a test this evening, and everything seems to be operating as FusionDiffusion describes. (Didn't like the thought of them having to open up the dash) The compressor cycled more frequently upon leaving my building's underground garage (cooler ambient temps), but remained on after sitting out in a hot parking lot. The shorter cycling, in my case, must have been a combination of having the recirculate activated and/or cool cabin temps. This A/C system seems to be smarter than I initially was giving it credit for.
Yes, A/C systems on cars are very sophisticated nowadays. They rely on multiple pressure, temperature, and sun sensors and are computer controlled to respond to various engine conditions (overheating, WOT, fan speed etc.). So they operate a lot differently than the older systems that just have a low pressure switch and run almost continually.
I have a 2011 Fusion SEL that beginning in August blows cold air for 10 minutes then switches to cool air for 20 minutes then mixed outside humid air. The car has been at the dealership service every Wednesday for the last two weeks and is returned working. The problem is the problem reoccurs after three days. They are not getting to the root cause and finally the A/C failed this weekend. Back into service today.
I know that the Evap. Discharge Air Temp Sensor causes problems but I also read that it could be other things like the AC pressure Switch, the compressor cycling switch, the blower motor, the blower resistor, the clutch air gap and even the Climate control panel.
I recently purchased an 2014 fusion w/ 87k miles on it that was an old fleet vehicle. The a/c was not working and upon my dismay I found out that the compressor clutch is not engaging when the system is on. Are there any issues with evap temp sensors on these newer fusions?
A pressure switch can be a cheap DIY fix attempt. Part price varies from $26 to $55 depending on source. There are no known issues I am aware of. Others have made similar posts (not many) but they never come back and give us the fix. The Ford part# is YH37. You can take a shot at replacing it and hoping for the best or paying for a proper diagnosis.
I have the same problem same car but I heard that you can install a resistor to trick the computer so it makes the compressor work..... does anyone know where to install this resistor I have a baby on the way and can't afford to pay to have the evap sensor replaced
2. The "trick" you're referring to has to do with failed evaporator temperature sensors in first-gen Fusions. You have a 2014. There are no reports of failed evap temp sensors in 2nd-gen Fusions. Unless you have some experience with automotive HVAC systems, you'll need a professional diagnosis.
Buy a scanner, buy a part, what's the difference? I recommended the cheapest replacement part that often fails. As previously mentioned, take a shot at replacing the part and hope for the best or pay for a proper diagnosis.
Wasting $$$ to some, fixing things to others. Twice in 40+ years I had an aircon failure and both times it was the pressure switch, which Motorcraft now renames the A/C clutch cycle switch. The first time I paid a lot for the repair. The second time, I took a chance, and saved a lot of money. Buy a scanner, take a chance replacing an inexpensive part, or buy a diagnosis. Either way, you pay.
eGuru has the right approach to resolving your a/c issue; do the diagnostics to determine the cause. Could be low on R-134, A bad compressor, worn a/c clutch, etc. You won't know until your do the diag first OR pay about $125 to have a professional a/c repair person do the diag, tell you what's wrong and you do the repair.
That's what I did. I confirmed I had a bad compressor, I purchased the compress, installed it, had a professional a/c repair guy vacuum and charge the a/c system and now I have ice cold a/c in my car.
My daughter has a 2009 SEL 2.3L AT (3FAHPU8Z99R169714) that needs an ac compressor. Car's got 165k miles on it. I'm looking on rockauto. There's only one Valeo listed, that I'd prefer to get for $245ish but it says it has a 128mm (5inch) pulley, which I think is only for a car with an MT. The Motorcraft one is almost $400 but doesn't say the pulley diameter or whether it's the AT or MT version. It seems there's a difference between the AT and MT car's compressors. One of the other brands, UAC, has two listings, each listing seems to state clearly what it's for. Another thing I think is odd is that there are more MT-version compressors available than there are AT-versions.
Anybody have any insight on this? I do remember about 5 years ago putting a new serpentine belt on this car, and I fought for a few hours trying to get it to go on even after enlisting my daughter's help holding the tensioner in its bottomed out position. I had to basically roll it on, and I was sure that I had the correct size belt. Could it be that Ford put the wrong ac compresor having the 5" pulley on this car? That would explain the belt not fitting without rolling it on using the pulley (that's what I had to do to get it on the car. When I replace this compressor, I'm going to just cut it off and put a larger size by 2 mm that I've seen as an option.
Hi mrau92. If you can not be sure while trying to purchase online, then the best course of action to get the proper part number and part for your vehicle would be to visit the Parts Department at your local Ford Dealer and ask them for the correct part number for your vehicle. Have the VIN handy, as that is how they properly cross reference the correct part number/parts for your particular vehicle.
Also...Get a price and negotiate the price while there, since that may be much easier than trying to do it online. Then, once you have the correct part number and a price, you can do your online shopping.
I can attest that the 6spd manual cars do have some manual specific parts, but that RockAuto listing is confusing. I saw 3 different specs for aftermarket yet only one listing for the Motorcraft. I personally have been avoiding cheap aftermarket parts as they just don't last. I might not go straight to the dealer, but my mechanic uses factory parts whenever possible. Either way the RockAuto listing is a mess.
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