LANGUEDOC BEACHES - THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UGLY
BeoWolf
>From butt-naked naturists to bouncy castles... how to find the beach
that's right for you.
Languedoc's biggest information website www.creme-de-languedoc.com
has just released an in-depth report covering 42 beaches along the
Mediterranean coast.
The Languedoc Beach Report comprises reviews and photographs along a
250 kilometre coastal stretch in the south of France, scoring each
beach from Bad to Excellent and detailing criteria such as sand
quality, setting, the availability of restaurants, bars, toilets,
showers and parking; nudist areas and facilities for children are also
noted.
Designed to help holidaymakers sort the wheat from the chaff, the
Languedoc Beach Report tells it like it is. Just because a beach is on
the Med doesn't mean it's a nice place to spend the day, and the
report aims to ensure that no one wastes valuable holiday time hunting
for the perfect beach.
Asked for advice on where to go - and what to avoid - the
report's author and Crème de Languedoc co-founder Greg Taylor
suggests the following:
What's hot
Languedoc has some beautiful beaches on offer, but you have to know
where to go. Espiguette, for example, is often not marked on maps, yet
it is one of the longest beaches in France, stretching from the marina
at the Grau du Roi all the way into neighbouring Provence. Completely
wild, with a sandy landscape of dunes and cacti bordered by beautiful
clear waters, it's a little difficult to find and the walk from the
car park to the beach can be a long one, but its size guarantees
everyone their own space, and its remoteness makes for an utterly
peaceful, relaxing experience.
Near the city of Narbonne, Leucate Plage is also a great tip.
Fir-covered hills rise along this stretch of the coast, dotted with
attractive villas. The village has the feel of a Californian beach
town, complete with surf shops and good restaurants serving up
ultra-fresh seafood. The vibe is relaxed and the beach is enormous,
attractive and clean, with fine sand and plenty of toilets and showers.
Clamber around the rocks at the beach end and you come to a much
narrower area enclosed by steep rocks which offers a more intimate and
secluded atmosphere.
What's not
Avoid the famous town beaches - those huge stretches of sand only 10-15
minutes drive away from Languedoc's major coastal cities of
Montpellier, Béziers, Narbonne and Perpignan. They are the most
obvious beaches to visit, the best publicised and the most popular
amongst city-dwellers. But they suffer from over-commercialisation and
feature row-upon-row of cheap and nasty concrete holiday homes, tacky
postcard shops and ice cream stalls, and tightly-packed crowds of
bathers in the summer months.
Argelès Plage is famous - it's often cited as one of the best
beaches in the whole of France - but there's a catch. Split into two
halves, the southern, more commercial end of Argeles is not very nice.
Games arcades and garish bouncy castles spoil the atmosphere. Instead,
head north up the beach, beyond the hubbub, to the more remote area
from where you can enjoy impressive views of the Pyrenees (still
snow-capped in May). The beach is huge and deep, with fine sand and
dense clumps of pine trees and grass separating the sand from the
holiday homes and camp sites behind.
Says Taylor: "The beauty of a beach is in the eye of the beholder. A
family of six on a budget is going to have very different needs to a
retired couple from Hampstead. Ice cream, bouncy castles and clean loos
are arguably more important to parents than a fancy cocktail bar, so
even though the Crème de Languedoc beach scores are subjective,
we've listed all the details - including whether or not you can go
naked - so visitors can make a fully-informed choice."
Montpellier's Naturist Beaches
Espiguette: Excellent
The King of Languedoc's beaches, Espiguette stretches for kilometre
after kilometre of fine sandy dunes. This beach is big enough to find
your own space, no matter how many people are there. The walk from the
car park can be as long as you want - but the further you go, the more
nude and then more gay it becomes. There are no buildings near by, but
in summer the odd drinks seller will pass by. Finish your day here with
a drink at nearby Aigues Mortes.
Maguelone: Good
Further down the coast and away from the built-up mass beaches of
Palavas and Carnon we find Maguelone. The beach is relatively slim but
quite long, and is very popular with nude bathers and gay men. It's
quieter than the big Montpellier beaches. Parking is free if you're
prepared to walk - whereas paid parking is quite close to the beach
itself. A beach bar/restaurant offers sun loungers and umbrellas for a
price.
Cap D'Agde nudist beach: Excellent
There are 5 beaches in all at Cap D'Agde - and this is probably the
most famous. The beach forms part of Europe's largest nudist colony,
and is actually one of the nicest beaches in Languedoc. Long and wide,
it offers fine sand and, if you walk far enough down it, freedom from
buildings. Official entrance to the complex and beach is €5 per
person, but it's said you can get to the beach at the other end without
paying. The beach really is 100% nude, and the further reaches have
been known to offer evening sex shows - replete with gawking
spectators.
Valras: OK
Valras beach is one of Languedoc's big 'town beaches' like Narbonne,
Canet and Palavas. It's certainly bustling, with plenty of tacky
postcard shops and ice cream stalls. The beach itself is nice, with
large wave-breakers having been built to stop erosion. This has created
a number of 'beachlets' - smaller beaches separated by thin rock
promontories. A good choice if you have kids, as ice cream and kiddie
areas are never far, but not particularly beautiful or atmospheric.
Leucate: Excellent
Sandwiched between the ugly ports of Nouvelle and Barcarès, Leucate
plage comes as a very pleasant surprise. It feels more like an
Australian beach town just outside Sydney - with relatively attractive
houses climbing up pretty fir-covered hills. There are two beaches
here, a main, large beach just in front of the town, and, further along
(accessible only by climbing round the rocks), a much slimmer beach
bordered by rocks that is popular with nude bathers and, at the very
end, gay men. Leucate is also popular with wind surfers, and boards can
be hired in the town.
Le Barcarès : Good
Whereas Port Leucate and Port Barcares feel very much like modern
holiday developments, Le Barcares feels a little more like a village,
giving it a nicer atmosphere somehow. The beach is deep (again gritty)
and a little steep just before the water's edge. There are lots of
bars, restaurants and shops nearby, as well as bouncy castles and
slides for the kids, and a fun pirate ship for them to play in. You can
hire jet skis at the port nearby, and mini golf isn't far.
Argelès North : Excellent
Argeles is frequently said to be one of the best beaches in all of
France - and this half of the beach certainly deserves that accolade.
The beach is enormous, like many of Languedoc's beaches, but it has the
edge in two important respects. Firstly, the views of the Pyrenees from
here are stunning, and make a unique backdrop for any sub-bathing
session. And secondly, the beach is separated from the holiday homes
and camping areas behind it by a lush park of grass, flowers and pine
trees. So you feel you're away from it all, even though civilisation is
only a few meters away.