Ps2 Power Board Schematic
Francesca Cruiz
But I have question about an external connexion.
On the schematic, I would like to represent an external connexion to connect wires.
For example, to connect a wire come from power supply on my schematic.
Which means it can be placed on a Schematic for illustration purposes but not be included in the electrical connections. This plus the line allows items such as potentiometers, switches, etc., to be shown to aid illustration.
Thanks for the info. For the connections to these parts I am using the Graphic Polyline but would have liked to be able to use a solid line by default instead of going back and editing the line style each section to solid. Maybe in V6 the default type and thickness can be set?
My personal favorite way is to take a photo of the board from directly overhead, flip the board over, and photo the bottom. Keep the camera exactly the same distance away (a mount helps.) Then take these images, with software like PhotoShop or GIMP, and flip the bottom image horizontally, and stack these on top of each other as layers. Then you can play with transparency to "see" both sides of the board at the same time.
Then you can see what pins of what components connect to what. I'd make another layer, and sketch the symbols of what the components actually are. Then add "wires" following the bottom traces to result in a "schematic."
Once that is done, hide the photos and look at just the schematic. It will be valid, but drawn horribly. From there, I would enter this into a schematic capture program such as KiCAD. Then rearrange things to make it understandable and to follow schematic convention (from doe.gov).
Note that there is a lot more to schematic convention than this one linked document. It is also slightly wrong in my opinion, or at least old-hat, as I was taught that transistor arrows should always point downwards or right. Grounds should always point down. Inputs always on the left, outputs on right.
You might have to disassemble the transformer too to see the number of turns if you plan on replicating the circuit. Completely relying on multimeter is not a good idea but you can use it to help you in the process. Using a CAD software with pre-installed libraries will be helpful in reducing the work done to find pinout of the components. Or you could hire someone to do the job and not learn anything.
It doesn't take so much time as Mattman944 said. Download Fritzing and assemble and connect the same electronic components from your PCB in 'breadboard view' (duplicate your PCB in Fritzing) and the schematics will automatically appear in Fritzing's 'schematic view'.
I have a gate opener system that is powered by a small circuit board, shown in the accompanying photos. The board uses a 12-volt battery backup, and it receives an 18-volt DC current to keep the battery charged. Right now, the board runs exactly as it should when only the battery is connected. The problem is that, for some reason, when I connect the 18-volt power-in from the manufacturer-specified transformer, it blows the thermofuse in the transformer (which cannot be replaced). The first time this happened, I figured it was just a bad transformer. However, the board blew a second transformer, so there is something going on.
While I had the 18v power connected, the green LED in the lower right-hand corner came on, the way it is supposed to, to indicate that the board has external power. Again, everything on the board works just fine when only the battery is connected.
I am sure the blade-type automotive fuses are readily available at the local autoparts store; the glass tube kind I would probably have to order online. Do you think a 40A blade fuse would work for this purpose? Also, do I need to put one in series on each of the two wires between the PS and the board, or just on one of them?
Thanks again for your help - I am very excited that it may be possible to fix this. I was getting ready to send it off to one of the online PCB repair businesses and then I read the fine print on their website, which explains that they only work on industrial circuit boards and have a minimum repair charge of $250!
It can be hard to find 2A blade style fuses in stock anywhere local, but Home Depot and many other hardware/home improvement/auto parts stores carry glass fuses and inline holders, so you should be able to pick them up locally.
I finally received the 2.0 amp slow blow fuses in the mail today and I soldered one to one of the leads between the PS and the PCB power input. I had it plugged in for more than 10 minutes and the fuse did not blow, nor did the PS, and I could see from the green LED on the board that it had power. So, that seems to confirm your theory that the MOV was causing the problem. I am impressed by your ability to troubleshoot accurately like that based on a photo or two and a description of the problem.
Do you think I need to do any other troubleshooting at this point (like removing the 2 amp fuse and wiring the PS directly to the board to see what happens)? Or should I just go ahead and buy a replacement MOV and solder it in?
I have always had an interest in electronic circuits but never had a chance to develop the knowledge. When I was a kid my dad bought a HeathKit alarm clock for me to assemble, along with a soldering iron, as birthday gifts. I got impatient waiting for him to show me how to go about it, so I followed the HeathKit instructions and soldered all of the components to the PCB. There probably was something in the instruction manual about using as little solder as possible, but I missed that. I basically covered the bottom of the circuit board with solder. My dad sent the board back to HeathKit and remarkably they were able to get all the solder off there.
Thank you Paul, for your help. I have ordered both the MOV you suggested and some slow blow 1.25 fuses along with in line holders. I am thinking of putting the fuse inside my Gate control Box to keep it weather proof.
Thanks again for all the advise, I will post again after completion of work.
Ken
Should I install the fuse inside the control box or at the Transformer which is located on a Outside Pole, electric 110 V duplex outlet, that has a flip up cover to protect somewhat to the weather. I will be using a screw together R3-32 Glass holder 16 Gage wire. Your Thoughts are Appreciated.
Ken
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when the unit arrived middle green block of the supply was not connected .When I connected that block and switched the unit ON, its went bang and seems to have fried an IC and a couple of resistors right at the edge of the board at the green terminal block, see pic. Alas this is not a returnable item. The board might be repairable if I have a schematic.
LPS schematic This version was compiled using a smt version (JRL0150) of the LPS so part identifiers and part # may vary from any other model More information on these supplies can be found by checking this blogs index:...
The part that failed is one of the input opto-couplers and probably the pull-ups and isolation diodes. See schematics but realize that part identifiers are different on individual supplies so the schematic part labels may not match your board.
The laser switch being left on when you powered on should not have been a problem but that wiring is suspect since that is the circuit that smoked?
The cable that is unplugged are control signals that should not create this kind of damage. I suspect a serious miswire.
(5) No two power supplies seem to be the same, but a common sequence at the mains power connector is [L-] [FG] [AC] [AC]. However, in a different supply the [AC] [AC] terminals are in the middle of the connector. What does your power supply say? Does the machine wiring match?
The unit arrived with the PSU unconnected or partially unconnected. (it is set correctly to 240v by the way). The three green blocks were then connected as the wiring seemed to naturally lie (not information available in the cd manual anyway). See pic.
Looking at picture I took at the time it arrived I think the two outer 4 pin wiring blocks are the wrong way round, left should be right and visa versa!
I just switched the wiring now to show you to see if you think which of the two wiring layouts is correct. (The central block unconnected in the first picture was connected at switch on. I will of course be checking the HT side of things before switch on, am aware of arcing issues and proper grounding and the high voltage.
This is the kind of dramatic high powered event that would blow the top off the opto-isolators and vaporize the resistor. You have applied 240VAC to what should have been the (+5V) and the (LaserOn) pins. I suspect that took out the two TEST switch diodes (mentioned earlier) as well. And likely the other opto. Replace 'em all.
However, not knowing the way your box is grounded in your country, there may be additional damage to the Low Voltage section of the power supply, especially the +5V section. Did you observe any damaged parts there?
I bought this Chinese HW-131 breadboard power supply, which seems to be a Chinese clone of another Chinese product, the YwRobot MB U2. There are reports of unreliability with that device run off 12V, the suggestion is to run it of less than 12V if you are drawing notable power from it because heatsinking is marginal, using the small board. And definitely test all the output voltages before wiring this to something valuable.
It uses a AMS1117 3.3 and 5V regulator, and the minimum input voltage is 6.5V, due to the regulator dropout of 1.3V, so I will look around for something more suited to this. A breadboard tends to get shorts easily, and I could see the AMS1117 getting shirty trying to dissipate 12W into a short at 1A current limit ? The schematic matches this Addicore one
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