Samsung Rt20 Refrigerator

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Virgil Gardiner

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Aug 5, 2024, 8:09:14 AM8/5/24
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Helloour samsung fridge Model RS265TDRS/XAA is cooling but the fan is not blowing to move the cold air around to keep the fridge as cold as it normally would be. If the evaporator fan was frozen up but has been since defrosted, could it still need to be replaced? We've put everything back together with limited items in the fridge and it's holding 35 degree's, but the door items aren't as cool as they should be, nor the drawers. The freezer is fine- except the ice maker quit working last year. Not sure if it could be related?

Sometimes you can find the repair manual online...In the manual, you can look up error codes.....I found my evaporator fan giving an error code....I just received the new fan...old fan worked intermittently


The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.


The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor..


so I know this post is old, but I had this problem and did not see my solution so here it is. My samsung refrigerator module number rf20hfenbww top part (the actual refrigerator not the bottom freezer) was not getting cold. After a few days with it unplug I begin to tear it down and found out the the fan behind the inside cover was not running. I had to remove the three screws holding it to the back of the inside wall (be mindful that one of the screws is behind a little tab in the middle of the plate). To my surprise the red wire going to the fan was burned apart, so after rewiring it back together and put everything back together it started cooling again.


My Samsung French door fridge model RF260BEAESG/AA had cooling issue 6 months after warranty expired! It started with water under crisper drawer and fresh food section temperature got to 60F. I called Samsung service department and was told to turn energy saver off, raise the front one inch and manually defrost the fresh food section by pressing two control keys. Few weeks later the problem came back. I took the rear panel off and found ice was all over evaporator and drain hole. I added long T shape metal to keep drain hole from frozen. A couple of month later the problem came back again. Every couple of month I had to take rear panel off. I heard of adding flexible heater and decided to try. Bought a Gemline GH-203 heater and wrapped around the top part of evaporator. Boy it really works. Never have cooling issue again!


I have a Samsung fridge Model RT18M6213SR/AA and my fridge is not cooling properly. The freezer is fine but the fridge is not Cole enough and has started to smell. I checked the Main board and inverter board and I have a solid Red light with no flashing. I removed the cover from the evaporator coils in the fridge and they had a nice light frost so I went on to test the fan motor. I connected a 9 volt battery and the motor started right up. I don't know what the RPM should be but it seemed pretty fast. Next I replaced the Thermosistor but it made no difference. I am having to run the fridge on the highest setting to maintain 38 deg. I tricked the door sensor with a magnet and the fan does run when the door is closed. I am stumped as to what is wrong. Maybe the motor is not running fast enough ? Fridge is only 2 years old and all door seals are like new. Any help would be great.


Not sure if it is applicable to your model but in the parts diagram for the refrigerator compartment they show 2 temp sensors. Part # 10-3 and #14-2 although 14-2 is in a dotted area which may mean that it is an optional extra or feature.


Correct I changed the sensor that is housed in the coil cover next to the fan part number DA32-00070A there is another sensor that clips onto the top of the evaporator coil but I did not change it. I think it controlls the defrost mode and I had no heavy frost so I figured it was OK.


After calls to Samsung which was a waste of time I spoke with an appliance repair friend. He said Samsung are prone to icing up. I unplugged and emptied to fridge, doors open for 24 hours. Water appeared on the bottom of fridge, cleaned up the water, plugged it back in and was back to 36 degrees in no time.


Hello. This is happening with my fridge Samsung digital converter. It has been unplugged for 48 hours , water at the back of the fridge in the fridge tray. Do I drain the water and if so how ? It does not come out. Thank you


A week later the fridge just stopped cooling -freezer was fine. I looked in the back of the fridge where the two small openings are and on the right side i could see ice-the left hole only had the white styrofoam insulation. I called Samsung they sent out japanese repair man -and he fixed it. The problem was the drain line was too long and kinked -not working properly and a sensor had went bad. total bill was $288.00 plus $95 for service call.


Breakdown of bill -He put a new ice maker in because mine had not worked in two years was froze up and busted. -That problem was caused by the water level was set to fill the trays overflowing causing it to all freeze up. He toally replaced the ice maker.


Depending on your location the sealed system may need to be checked by a licenced refrigerator repairer, due to the environmental regulations regarding the handling of refrigerant gases. Also they're the only ones allowed to buy it is it has to be replenished if there was a refrigerant leak for instance. They also have the equipment to measure the high/low pressures in the sealed system to know where the problem may be.


When you say the compressor is good presumably you mean that it is operating and is not getting too hot. It may be but that doesn't mean that there is enough refrigerant in the sealed system for it to be cooling properly or there may be a blockage somewhere


Check the user manual for the warranty provisions regarding the sealed system for your location. Most manufacturers provide only a 12 month warranty on the fridge but a 5 year warranty on the sealed system (parts only not labour) so it may be worth a look if the fridge is not that old.


Here's a link to a service manual that may help, as usually they have the diagnostic test procedures and wiring diagrams etc to hopefully solve the problem. Unusual that Samsung do not seem interested even if you are willing to pay? :-)


We had an issue with Our Samsung fridge that was similar. Our freezer would be fine, no frozen coils, but the fridge would not cool lower than 47F. I would "reset" the fridge (unplug) for 15 mins then start again and things would be fine for 3 days then go back. I checked the fan, just fine; the damper, just fine; but replaced both of them for the fun of it.. It came down to replacing and relocating the fridge temp sensors . After I did this, no more issues.

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